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This MOC came about from my wanting of a super compact all-in-one Lego compressor, and after trying many different auto valve designs (and about a week of building), this is what I came up with:
800x600.jpg

Video:

Features:

  • Air tank
  • Automatic pressure switch
  • M motor and 6L mini pump compressor
  • Very compact 15 x 11 x 7 stud size
  • Easy removal of battery box 

Pneumatic tube lengths:

  • 1x 3L (2.4cm)
  • 2x 10L (8cm)
  • 1x 14L (11.2cm)

All the pneumatic tube lengths listed above (and most of the other parts) are available in 8110-1 Unimog U400.

Instructions are available on Rebrickable.

 

The compressor uses a single 6L mini pneumatic pump, but can easily be modified for two pumps.

800x600.jpg

The automatic cut-off pressure can easily be adjusted by changing the strength of the rubber bands attached to the pneumatic cylinder.

800x600.jpg

 

Edited by mocbuild101

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Yea, it's a bit too large, regular photo resolution for here is 800x600 (as on the site guidelines) or don't be over 1024x768..

To resize that, just click the resolution you want on the thumbnail, then copy the link and paste it here. It will be automatically embedded.. :wink:

Edited by KamalMYafi

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Thanks, I was looking for that page... I didn't see it in the Browse section :blush:.

I resized them to 800 wide by Ctrl+Right-click and then Edit Image.

Edited by mocbuild101

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I have finally got around to making a video of this! You can watch the video above, in the main topic post :wink:

Edited by mocbuild101

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That's a nice compact compressor you build there.

I had been wondering about the auto shutoff function and figured it would use a cillinder pushing a switch but I could not figure how it would turn it back on when pressure gets low, now seeing these elestic bands gives me a "aha erlebnis" ... cool !

I have a slightly more bulky concept on my desk right now, running 4 shortstroke pumps, 1x 6L yellow, 1x 6L clear blue and 2x 6.5L blue V2 pumps.

I was aiming for max PSI for a pneumatic laserguided missle launcher, my contraption now reaches slightly over 50 psi, wich packs quite the punch when released in a barrel made out of 2L liftarms, it shoots axle rockets from my workbench across the hallway into my livingroom. (using a modified switch, outputs drilled to 2mm)

I've also noticed the clear blue 6L pump is the best as it comes to high pressure and the old 6L yellow is the worst, also tested all my valves and put a little sticker on them, no more 2nd hand pneumatics for me, most of them performed very bad when put under pressure, this also goes for pumps and cillinders sold as 'like new' or 'good' wich to my standarts where actually 'poor' in performance.

That video is looking good, I'm saving up for a new PC as this old thing is now 14 years old and full of trouble, also got a cheap SQ12 sportscam from China comming this way.

 

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On 4/21/2017 at 11:00 AM, mocbuild101 said:

Thanks, I was looking for that page... I didn't see it in the Browse section :blush:.

I resized them to 800 wide by Ctrl+Right-click and then Edit Image.

hosts like bricksafe offer various image resolution, so you just post image with 800 resolution - that is easier way... idea for this is original and it looks sturdy with frames :thumbup:

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14 hours ago, Permo said:

That's a nice compact compressor you build there.

14 hours ago, I_Igor said:

idea for this is original and it looks sturdy with frames :thumbup:

Thanks!

 

13 hours ago, I_Igor said:

hosts like bricksafe offer various image resolution, so you just post image with 800 resolution - that is easier way...

Yes I know that now... :wink:

14 hours ago, Permo said:

I was aiming for max PSI for a pneumatic laserguided missle launcher

Cool! I've tried making something like that before, but I've always ended up using non-Lego parts (plastic straws).

14 hours ago, Permo said:

no more 2nd hand pneumatics for me, most of them performed very bad when put under pressure, this also goes for pumps and cillinders sold as 'like new' or 'good' wich to my standarts where actually 'poor' in performance.

That means they need re-lubricating - I've found that lubrication can be the difference between unusable, and better than new - I've re-lubricated all my pneumatic parts, and they work so mach better now. (especially the large cylinders) Also, sometimes there can be small particles of dirt or plastic in the seals - which can cause pressure loss.

I think taking apart, cleaning, and re-lubricating can just about fix any pneumatic parts.

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Hey, I forgot about this topic! This will be very useful for my experiments with pneumatic arms! Thanks for sharing!

Edited by TechnicRCRacer

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57 minutes ago, TechnicRCRacer said:

This will be very useful for my experiments with pneumatic arms!

Thanks, that's actually what I originally designed it for. (though I quickly changed to using a big air tank, due to how fast it used the air...)

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Didn't saw it earlier, but very interesting idea and good build.

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7 hours ago, mocbuild101 said:

That means they need re-lubricating - I've found that lubrication can be the difference between unusable, and better than new - I've re-lubricated all my pneumatic parts, and they work so mach better now. (especially the large cylinders) Also, sometimes there can be small particles of dirt or plastic in the seals - which can cause pressure loss.

I think taking apart, cleaning, and re-lubricating can just about fix any pneumatic parts.

Ah, thanks for the tip.... I'll be doing this next weekend.

I've got some cottonpicks, sillicone spray and sillicone grease in a tube, I guess the thicker grease is most suitable for pneumatics.

I saw some video's on youtube on how to open them up.

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22 minutes ago, Permo said:

I've got some cottonpicks, sillicone spray and sillicone grease in a tube, I guess the thicker grease is most suitable for pneumatics.

Both will work, it mainly depends on how fast you want them to move. Also, the grease is less likely to leak out than the spray.

22 minutes ago, Permo said:

I saw some video's on youtube on how to open them up.

I was going to suggest that...

One thing though, you don't need any tools to open most of the pneumatic parts, except for the newer valves.

Just now, Paperinik77pk said:

Very interesting solution!!! Thanks for posting! :laugh:

Thanks!

4 hours ago, Jurss said:

Didn't saw it earlier, but very interesting idea and good build.

Thanks, I don't know why it didn't get any attention when I first posted it... :sceptic:

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Ok, I'll try using fingers only....

I'll keep my valves as they are, I have 'modified' one without opening it up simply by using a mini handdrill for circuitboards and 1mm, 1.5mm and 2mm drillbits, put the switch in one position and carefully drill out the opposite hole, connected a bit of pneumatic hose to my spraycan nozzle (perfect fit) and blast them with silliconespray.

Now instead of 'pfffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffft' it goes 'Puff!' ... a 12L barrel is now sufficient to shoot axle rockets. (the light tan 4L ones with the round bit make perfect rockets)

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1 hour ago, Permo said:

Now instead of 'pfffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffft' it goes 'Puff!'

:laugh: I look forward to seeing it when it's done.

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Im sorry for resurrection of an old post but i was wondering what ever happened with this project 

Mainly how many run hours this runs as compared to just running the pump?

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11 hours ago, Roadmonkeytj said:

Mainly how many run hours this runs as compared to just running the pump?

To be honest I really don't know, but I'd assume that it would last longer for creations that don't use much air.

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1 hour ago, mocbuild101 said:

To be honest I really don't know, but I'd assume that it would last longer for creations that don't use much air.

Well after seeing this linked in train tech forum for an option to use air to control switches and after finding out that this fits in the first floor of my switch house.  Im wanting to use it to run my switching layout at shows ... Seeing as the public might not let go of the button when the switch motors grind ... With air they can only travel so far lol.  I was just trying to guage how many changes of battery i needed to bring lol.

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3 hours ago, Roadmonkeytj said:

to use air to control switches

Well for that it should be quite efficient, as it would have periods where it would be off, and saving power.

My advice would be to do some experiments to see how much air it uses, and maybe even add a second air tank, so that when it's full (and not running), it would have a longer time before it turns back on.

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Ditch the battery and run it off an external power source such as a train controller.

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7 hours ago, mocbuild101 said:

Well for that it should be quite efficient, as it would have periods where it would be off, and saving power.

My advice would be to do some experiments to see how much air it uses, and maybe even add a second air tank, so that when it's full (and not running), it would have a longer time before it turns back on.

Haha i actually thought of that.  Ive been playing with a way to hide a air tank as a old fuel tank.

7 hours ago, Doug72 said:

Ditch the battery and run it off an external power source such as a train controller.

I want to stay battery powered so im not limited to where i can display it.  But adding a power adaptor would be prudent for shows with power.

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