[LDD] Mortesv's CR90 corvette (reverse-engineered version)

[bricksmarlin]

@EKae Yes, it runs through the entire body.

[ecmo47]

Progress! Of sorts. I am done redoing the fuselage in LDD. I've run through the building instructions twice and there are no glaring errors. The next step is to cross-reference the parts list and see what additional items I need to round up before finally working on actually building it.  Groan! 

Fuselage V2.3 by Scott Roys, on Flickr

The colored parts represent items not found in LDD.

1. Purple tiles = #25269 White 1x1 1/4 round tile (need 4)

2. Green = #24299 White Wedge plate 2x2 Left (need 4)

3. Yellow  #24307 White Wedge plate 2x2 Right (need 4)

 

Edited May 17, 2017 by ecmo47

[EKae]

@ecmo47 Looking good! I'll have to update my own parts list as well.

Also, I have moved the fleet to provide space for the CR90 (and Mortesv's next project!)

Still need to figure out the arrangement of the various ships - it may be easier once I have the CR90 built :)

[ecmo47]

Lot's of changes on the inside and a few differences on the outside of my mod. Lots of effort to remove those strap hinges and I already had them! But my mods closed up the gap very nicely.

On your fleet, you needs varying  heights like you had with the plastic shelves. 

 

[sandtrooper]

On 5/1/2017 at 6:53 AM, ecmo47 said:

Had some time this morning to sketch out a simple engine exhaust idea that I have been thinking about to capture the prototype yellow that you see in the movies. Replace the trans-blue 3x3 radar dish (and the two 2x2 round plates) with part  #3941 (trans-yellow 2x2 round brick) and part #2654 (trans-yellow boat stud) both are very common and easy to find. 

Engine detail 3 by Scott Roys, on Flickr

Also, in this picture, I've used part #87081 (4x4 round brick, no holes) to replace some of the stacks of 4x4 round plates.

Scott,

Do you have an idea of how many #87081 bricks could be used for the build?  I'd rather use those instead of getting so many of the 4x4 round plates.  Thanks.

[ecmo47]

@sandtrooper. Personal preference will dictate how many are used. I ended up replacing 24 of the #60474 round plates with eight  #87081 (4x4 round bricks w/o holes).

Per the red arrows, I replaced the ones in the front of the engines where they had some greebling to cover them. You could replace another 24 plates on the back side of the engines (green arrow) if you wanted to but that would change your ability to include 2 plates worth of dark red on the two of the outside engines. Also, I like the way the stud cutouts on the plates added interesting detail to the rear of the engine. 

CR-90 engines v3.1 by Scott Roys, on Flickr

Edited May 17, 2017 by ecmo47

[mortesv]

@ecmo47 Looking good, but I still don't understand the added engine length?

[ecmo47]

Huh? I just went back and looked at your photo's and they look like they're the same length to me. What is the difference?

[mortesv]

1 plate, look again :)

[ecmo47]

Must be blind this morning as I'm still not seeing the extra plate. Per the picture below you have three plates at the front (red arrow) and 4 at the back (blue arrow) just like EKae's design. 

Mort's engines plate discussion by Scott Roys, on Flickr

Edited May 19, 2017 by ecmo47

[mortesv]

2 hours ago, ecmo47 said:

Must be blind this morning as I'm still not seeing the extra plate. Per the picture below you have three plates at the front (red arrow) and and 4 at the back (blue arrow) just like EKae's design. 

Mort's engines plate discussion by Scott Roys, on Flickr

There are only three, I think you confuse the bottom of the half cylinder with a plate :)

[bricksmarlin]

In the LDD it looks as if part 85941 is used.

It should be part 6259.

[EKae]

I am inclined to agree with bricksmarlin: I do have the wrong cylinders in the LDD. Luckily, I had to use that piece (due to my color scheme) anyways, but ecmo47 will have to order some more cylinders in the right type!

Also, does anybody have some ideas for what would be a good color for a fighter squadron? I feel I have only focused on larger Ships, and thus my amount of fighters in my fleet is a bit small :)

[ecmo47]

I'm not sure how you would be able to tell the difference between the 2 from Mortesv's photo's. Thanks for pointing that out. I'll change my LDD and parts list so it's correct for anybody else. I'm staying with the ones I got and call it an upgrade. Mine will be a CR-90a and will go faster then yours due to increased engine length. Boo-ya!

As for fighter squadrons, Blue x-wing squadron would be a good start. We discussed this in one of Mortesv's threads. I'd like to create some TIE Strikers to harass our mighty fleet.   

Edited May 19, 2017 by ecmo47

[EKae]

Just did a quick mod to my imperial Lambda shuttle:

Basically, I made it a Sentinel-class shuttle by making the area between the cockpit and the wings longer.

[bricksmarlin]

12 hours ago, ecmo47 said:

I'm not sure how you would be able to tell the difference between the 2 from Mortesv's photo's.

@ecmo47

You can see it because of the square "deepening", part 85941 has a little circle!

On Mortes pics you can see the little squares!

Believe me I bought 44 of the wrong part before I noticed

Edited May 19, 2017 by bricksmarlin

[ecmo47]

Making some progress! Some parts orders came in so I was able to rebuild the engine block per my revised LDD file. Very please with the results. It's a logical build and very solid. I tweaked the file this morning based on the build. It had one misplaced part and I remove four 1x2 plates so that the two outer bottom panels would seat a little better. I also covered up some exposed studs with 1x1 tiles. 

Question for the crowd. My 4 bottom panels refuse to stay up and will sag down right away. The plate hinges do not provide enough friction to keep them in place.

CR-90 Engine block panel problem by Scott Roys, on Flickr

Any suggestions on how to keep it up? 

[EKae]

@ecmo47 You could use 4 white rubber bands, and attach them somehow to the main engine block. Or, you could glue the spot where the two parts hinge.

[ecmo47]

GLUE?! Blasphemy! 

I'm going to investigate using a #3937/3938 combo attached to the middle of the plate. That way, neither end can pivot.

[mortesv]

@ecmo47 put a plate "under" the hinge plate with a 2654 on top. Then place a plate on the "base" above. The lip under the 2654 should grab the plate above. No rubber bands needed :)

[ecmo47]

Thanks for the tip but remember that I'm the guy that couldn't find a the 4th plate on the engines! What size of plates are you talking about? 1x2's? Is what is in the picture close? It doesn't work but seems close to your description.  

DSC02004 by Scott Roys, on Flickr

Edited May 21, 2017 by ecmo47

[EKae]

@ecmo47 Looks great! :) Hope it's going smoothly!

Just placed the rest of the orders, so now when they all arrive I will get to begin building! :) The total came to $375 across 15 orders!  I think that may partly be due to my color scheme, though.

[mortesv]

@ecmo47 yes, that is close :) I just used a 2x2 plate under the boat tile :) Also used a normal plate on the base - you might need to experiment with the height so they meet at the right place :)

[ecmo47]

The end is near!

DSC02006 by Scott Roys, on Flickr

Need to build the stand, wait on a few last minute parts and do some general tweaking but it's looking good! Did uncover one error and re-designed one small area in the course of building and will get those detailed soon. 

 

[EKae]

@ecmo47 looking awesome! :) can't wait to join you myself! 

MORE mods? :)