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Thanks everybody! 

@LvdH

I would appreciate your LDD of what you already have. 

@Erik Leppen

I considered using rubber bands instead of this modified spring setup for a 'legal' solution (fun detail: these are from the Lego springs I used on the 8865 I build when I was 8 years old), but I decided this looked better and more like his big brother.

Edit: I also briefly had a version with a swaybar like the 8858 Rebel Wrecker as a suspension setup, but that took way too much space and looked nothing like the 8865 setup, failing the "tribute" imo.

@trekman

Nope, modern pins :classic:

@Didumos69

Yes the rear axle has a floating 'diff'. Saw it first used by Zblj (Zero) in his TC5 TC9 entry (also a mini supercar), but with an actual diff. I think Lipko or Crowkiller made a version of it as well, but bigger and more robust, not sure if I saw that before or after Zblj's.

Perhaps I should have mentioned that in the opening post. At least to give proper credit, my apologies. I didn't think about that. In my defence, I thought this idea was now common knowledge :classic:

Edited by Appie

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Sweet, thanks. I'll get started on it soon. I guess bricksafe takes a while before I can access the link.

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Got it! Going by the image on the file (LDD currently updating so can't actually see more yet), that's quite alot you already did. Great job!

Edited by Appie

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Very nice model with a very smart design.

It is perfect in every way, excpet the custom suspension.
Maybe something can be achieved with rubber bands ?

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Thanks guys.

@Anio

Yes it could, I mentioned this earlier, it would be easy to use the space of the current custom suspension for a rubber bands version. I chose to not use that however, because I prefer this style of suspension even if it is just the springs from Lego parts and not the full spring . If it makes people happy I could finalize a version of that type of suspension, but I prefer the current version.

The LDD is coming along nicely, current status:

f0dc79b06d60e09831ea68346cab1031.png


Stuff left to do: engine and obviously the front.

If you wonder how I came to this steering solution (using a wheel hub from the front suspension in the mix) edit: wow that area is dark on the image :laugh:), it's because this method gave me the least amount of slack (and therefore better steering angle) and could fit with the dash.

Edit2: better image of steering

08241d53fc2a3ed02f731b693aa79c10.png

I changed the colours of a few minor things in this LDD btw. I don't own LBG #44 connectors, but I will probably order a few to better match the light grey chassis of the original (I use 3 in the model, behind the seats and 1 for the headlights), so I figured I might as well put a few in there already. Also changed a few parts that work better or do the same with more common parts, like using the 3L axle with stud at the end instead of the 3L axle with stop (LvdH already put them on the front suspension :thumbup:).

Once I finalized the LDD any feedback for improvements are welcome.

 

edit 3:  finished the engine in the LDD and noticed a minor collision of the 4L thin liftarms on the exhausts. Not sure how to fix this yet.

Otherwise, finished the headlights and just have the dash left. Should be able to finish it tomorrow.

Edited by Appie

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And the LDD is done!

536bf3a609db3cc65148ee042f84c94b.png

Download here (updated)

Few items in front of the model that I could spend a decade on to align properly in LDD:

- 6L links for the steering

- 9L black liftarm for the dash behind the steering wheel (this will fit irl)

- Antenna on the dash for the headlights, (this will also fit irl)

- Floating "diff" isn't attached to the driveshaft, that pinhole with axle holds it surprisingly well when in use. I have to lock up the gearbox to try and detach it when in use.

 

Known issues:

- The red crossblock behind the dash with the blue axle pin functions as a stop so you can't easily level the dash while steering, you can still level it, but it takes a little force now. The blue pin with axle is not fully inserted into the red crossblock on purpose in LDD since this would cause tension on the parts irl. I tried looking for additional ways to reinforce the dash, but it tended to conflict with the steering.

- The wheels having negative camber in real life. This is partially because of the slack in Lego parts combined with these tires (evident at the front suspension). At the rear it is a tad worse, because of how I build the suspension and the cv-joints tendancy to not stay firmly inserted on the wheels. This was a compromise to mimic the big brother, especially in colour, lack of 4L blue parts with pinholes at the ends (or lack of such parts in general). I didn't want to use 2x #1 connectors since that can be easily ripped apart.

The suspension at the rear is also a bit harder to push down, this is also a side effect of the construction.

- The 4L thin liftarms having a slight collision with the exhausts

While I don't mind most of these issues as they are (actually I only mind the collision), suggestions to fix any of these issues are obviously welcome.

Enjoy and goodnight!

 

Edit: just noticed I forgot 4 parts in the front suspension, updated LDD file, can't be arsed to update the image in this post :laugh:.Also updated for gearbox front mounting of axle.

The little 8865 has a total of 509 512 parts (springs included)

 

Edited by Appie
I forget stuff when it's late and another edit to update the LDD file in this post

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8865 was the first Lego Super Car that I bought when I was younger, so this set holds a special place in my heart too.  I must have built and rebuilt it about 100 times.

I'm impressed by your version, and I'm amazed that you could fit all of those features into it, and it looks great!  Nice work :thumbup:

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Thank you very much guys! 

There might be another error in the LDD. I think I didn't place the parts that secure the gearshift axle in the front of the gearbox. The parts missing are a black #1 connector, 2L black axle and a LBG half bush. I can't update the LDD atm, because I am at work. 

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It surprised me a little too, but like most of my builds, it's pretty packed. And a good portion of the parts is in the details to mimic the original like the brick build engine (30 parts or so), exhausts (12 parts), gearbox (20 parts or so), rear suspension (20 parts), headlights (15 parts or so) and chairs (45 parts or so).

So that's about 150 parts to get the look. None of the parts are particularly rare with current Lego, except the wishbones of the front suspension (but plenty on bricklink) and perhaps the 3 pinhole crossblock I used in the chairs in blue. No idea what those do on bricklink. 

Edit: oh and the frictionless 8T gear from the 42009.

Edited by Appie

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And LDD updated (again), I think i forgot nothing now, all should be in there :classic:

Feel free to post any comments about it or poke holes in it.

I also edited the OP with the LDD and added some information I forgot in my scaling text:

The 0.48 scaling was based on the front and/or rear axle width including tires. The scaling was not based on the usual method of using the tires' height . If I wanted a tire in that scale I would need 39mm tires, which Lego does not make, so my options were 43mm tires or these 37mm tires. 43mm felt like a big increase in scale (and bigger model as a result) and 2mm smaller is barely visible imo, so I went with these tires and a smaller model.

Edited by Appie

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I managed to get the rear axles right (LXF-file here). Had to put it in second gear to make this work though :wink:. Corrected some colors as well. If I find some more time I might work on the front axles as well.

800x450.jpg

Edited by Didumos69

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Cool! Looks alot better than it being flat on the ground :laugh: Thanks!

As for the colours... yeah, I just picked some colours in LDD Extended that looked similar to what they were in real life :laugh:

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@Didumos69

I fixed the front suspension so save your time, I also put the LDD back in first gear :wink: Also managed to attached at least 1 of the 6L links to the steering, can't get the second one to work though in LDD.

1c8b7c2ff89ae9b17c42b85a47a7af93.png


Updated LDD

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I've put the other link more or less in place and fixed that pin in the roof above the left seat. LXF-file.

800x409.jpg

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I would be interested to know whether this would work for the dash and steering. It does fit perfectly, but it would be quite a mod.

800x409.jpg800x409.jpg

Edited by Didumos69

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I don't see a reason why it shouldn't work except perhaps giving a little more slack in the steering with the addition of another frictionless pin.

However, while I appreciate the thought you put into this, I am afraid I don't like the solution for a couple of reasons and mostly relate to its big brother:

- Dash is 4 studs in depth on the big brother, so I'd rather look for a solution that fits in 2 studs to be in scale and not in 3 like this.

- I don't like the 3L thin liftarms in front of the dash to secure the whole thing. I considered this when I was building the model, but that space is wide open on the original, so I wanted to keep it open too. In scale, to be as open as its big brother I'd have to use 0.5 studs for the beams to which I would mount the steering, I am already using the full depth of the 2 studs on the scaled dash, I'd rather not add more to it.

- The black crossblocks on the ends of your solution ruin the two-tone dash the original had, changing them to red would ruin the bottom half the original had. So I was mostly looking at solutions at the rear of the dash (where I put my red crossblock on the passengers' side). Since the original has red technic bricks in those places too, I figured I could too :classic:

- I'd like to avoid placing the headlights antenna on the passenger's side if possible

 

edit:

17 hours ago, Didumos69 said:

I've put the other link more or less in place and fixed that pin in the roof above the left seat

 

More or less? I think it's as close as we're going to get. I tried for 10 minutes to get it to work :laugh: but didn't think to simply try this. Nice!

As for the pin, thanks, saw I had a minor alignment issue on the driver's side which caused misalignment on the passenger's side, but it was late thursday and figured it was more important to release the LDD than waste time on such a minor thing and since then I simply forgot about it :grin:

 

Edit: Updated LDD file. Managed to get antenna on the car, also lined up the steering more closely to where it's susposed to be on the real life model and aligned the pins for the dash. The 9L liftarm I still can't mount. I also noticed why I can't mount that liftarm, it collides with the steering mechanism. On the real life model I seem to be enjoying the Lego margin of parts and minor slack of parts in that area, not limited to just the steering mechanism but also the nose as whole. It being only really secured by the 4L thin liftarms in the front at the headlights and by the front window (the front fenders I wouldn't call secured with the 2L liftarms, which is on purpose, at least on the side of the steering), the dash can rest on the steering mechanism.

Also the 4L axles with stop from the suspension were on purpose pushed exactly into the half bush at the front. More makes the suspension work poor and have the nose sack lower than the proper stance. For people building from the LDD, I thought that would be more important to know. The rear has the same, but instead of half bushes (which would be too much for the amount of axle left to mount them on), the thin 3L blue liftarm locks them into place for the proper stance, while also providing a solution to prevent the upper part of the suspension from moving inwards making the negative camber effect bigger.

Edited by Appie

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7 hours ago, Appie said:

However, while I appreciate the thought you put into this, I am afraid I don't like the solution for a couple of reasons and mostly relate to its big brother:

I was already thinking my 'mod' would not stand the 8865 resemblance test. I'm still glad I could contribute a little to the LDD though.

960x540.jpg

Edited by Didumos69

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Thanks alot for the help.

Yesterday I found a way to make the floating "diff" pop a little all the time when fully compressing the suspension on both sides at the same time. So I looked for a method to fix this issue and it was simply to turn the 4L thin lever liftarm around and have the 2L axle in the crossblock slightly moved upwards. Now it won't move at all when both sides are fully compressed. I updated the LDD (in the OP as well) to resemble this change.

70ec52c37148bd642879a745ed6f992e.png

New LDD can be downloaded here

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Sorry to get back to this little model, but the other day it hit me, I was missing a very nice piece Lego released this year to commemorate these kind of tributes and I already had a very nice spot to put it:

c703e593439d35b79f9919e64350f128.jpg

:classic:

 

Other than that I bought some LBG #44 connectors on bricklink, which while widely available are pretty pricey :look: Black ones work well too, since they aren't in sight very much.

(and as you can see I put the 2017 part of the pinhole with 2 axles on the driveshaft. Not that wasn't strong before, due to the gearbox structure on top of it, but it annoyed me :sweet:)

Edited by Appie

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52 minutes ago, Appie said:

Sorry to get back to this little model, but the other day it hit me, I was missing a very nice piece Lego released this year to commemorate these kind of tributes and I already had a very nice spot to put it:

Other than that I bought some LBG #44 connectors on bricklink, which while widely available are pretty pricey :look: Black ones work well too, since they aren't in sight very much.

(and as you can see I put the 2017 part of the pinhole with 2 axles on the driveshaft. Not that wasn't strong before, due to the gearbox structure on top of it, but it annoyed me :sweet:)

Cool!

Btw, here are LDraw a Stud.io versions of the digital file with the dashboard in place (not with your latest changes to the real life build though). And two POV-Ray renders:

960x540.jpg960x540.jpg

Edited by Didumos69

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