[WIP] Jeep Wrangler (Commando)

[Leonardo da Bricki]

I have decided, that for my 500th post, I should introduce my new project, my biggest yet. I have chosen to make a Jeep Commando, which is a 2015 Jeep Wrangler with mil-spec additions. Full description can be found here and here are a few photos: 

JC side

 

JC rear quarter

And here are the blueprints I clumsily made up from the ones I found online:

Jeep_Wrangler_JK_Unlimited_5door_2012_600_lq_0001

I have done all the math to find the size, based off the wheels I plan to use, which are the 43.2mm rims with 81.6mm balloon tires. So, if everything works out, it will be 45-47 studs long (bumper-to-bumper), and 21 studs wide (including mirrors). The functions I plan on having are:

1. Full PF including drive, steering, gearbox, lockable diffs, both central and on axles.

2. winch, PF, not RC

3. Opening doors, hood, tailgate

4. Partial interior

I will begin today, hopefully I'll have some progress to report tomorrow. C&C, comments, any advice is welcome. Thanks!

[Leonardo da Bricki]

Hello all! I have been working on the axles, the coolest part of this vehicle. So far, they are live axles with lockable diffs, 13 studs between the wheel hubs. However, I ran into some trouble with the steering. I tried to use the new steering arms at an upwards angle, but this resulted in toe-in steering and a reverse Ackermann effect. I have built it in LDD, so if anyone wants to take a look, please do. Any advice would be great. Also note that it is unfinished, so yes, it is flimsy. No pics because I'm having trouble with my Flickr account.  Sorry. Next update soon!

[offroadcreations]

43 minutes ago, Leonardo da Bricki said:

I have built it in LDD, so if anyone wants to take a look, please do. Any advice would be great.

If you have the new wheel hubs in e.g. Class, Porsche, you could try this axle. Please note that I'm not the best at building axles, so there could be better axles built for this truck.

Edited February 14, 2017 by Offroadcreat1ons

[Leonardo da Bricki]

1 minute ago, Offroadcreat1ons said:

If you have the new wheel hubs in e.g. Class, Porsche, you could try this axle.

Thanks. I hadn't considered using those new hubs because I don't have them, but if I can find them cheap, I might. One question for you, how did you change the wheel hub colors? I know its a dumb question, but I am new to using LDD.

[offroadcreations]

I believe it was @Henni who created the LDD file for the CLAAS, and he used a brick-built solution for the hubs, which aren't in LDD yet. Anyway, for changing the color you go to the top and select the paint bucket and click the brick which color you want to change. If you want more colors that aren't in normal LDD go to the top left corner, click view, click new themes, and then LDD Extended. Then choose the paint bucket, select the color you want, and click the brick you want to change. Once you learn it, it is pretty easy. 

Edited February 14, 2017 by Offroadcreat1ons
Spelling

[Leonardo da Bricki]

@Offroadcreat1ons Took me a few tries, but I got it now. Thanks!

[Leonardo da Bricki]

Hello again! Here is my next update, I have mostly finished the front axle and have begun the rear axle. My Flickr still isn't working, so no pics again. Sorry. However, LDD is here. Thanks @Offroadcreat1ons for his help with the front axle, but I found a solution which does not involve me buying more parts. I cannot get the black links to connect in LDD, but I tested it with real bricks and it works fine. To combat the slack, I used white rubber bands from the rear towball on the hub looped around the base of the shocks.

For those who want to know, though its pretty obvious, in LDD, gray is frame, blue is drive, red is diff lock, yellow + white is suspension elements, and black is steering.

[Pego]

I advise not to use the wheel hubs on this one, they would explode immediately under the torque from a couple kilos on 81 mm tires. Use portal axles instead, prebuilt or built-up. They might be bigger and more restrictive, but at least it will move. I like the design of the axles though, but they aren't the right ones for the task.

[Leonardo da Bricki]

I have started work on the 2-speed gearbox, with a central diff. I want to make the central diff lockable, but I have the problem of the differential flexing away from the gears because it is secured at the ends, with a distance of either 6 or 7 studs between, depending on which driving ring is used to lock the axle. Any ideas on how to best brace it? LDD is here

Thanks for the advice @Pego, though I was planning to build it with removable doors, and no roof, so it shouldn't be too heavy. Also, I was trying to be realistic, with on-axle diff locks. Adding portal hubs would mean removing them or changing the scale and making it bigger, which I don't have the parts for.