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18 minutes ago, Victor Imaginator said:

Nice teaser. Actually teasing me)

I noticed one weird thing in the cutout - there's two 20Z bevel gears in the front. Why not one double bevel 20Z?

Yea, that's a bit odd. It's an error in my LDD-file that I still have to fix. The thin ones are a little bit more flat on the sides, so I thought that would be better, but I have a normal one in my real-life build and that works perfectly too.

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Wonderful video! And an excellent build, I have enjoyed watching the model develop from the beginning, it has been a real pleasure. 

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15 hours ago, brickhank said:

Nicely done :thumbup:

Thanks!

15 hours ago, Victor Imaginator said:

I noticed one weird thing in the cutout - there's two 20Z bevel gears in the front. Why not one double bevel 20Z?

I fixed the LXF-file.

5 hours ago, John Daniels said:

Wonderful video! And an excellent build, I have enjoyed watching the model develop from the beginning, it has been a real pleasure. 

Thanks! It's always good to know people are enjoying this process.

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1 hour ago, LvdH said:

"Foolproof bodywork" not too sure about that :grin:.

Not sure what you mean, but I mean 'foolproof' as in...

Edited by Didumos69

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I like the video, including the fade-ins for each progression of parts. But the fade-ins for the words are confusing and distracting. Can you make the words more on-off-on.

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1 hour ago, Thirdwigg said:

I like the video, including the fade-ins for each progression of parts. But the fade-ins for the words are confusing and distracting. Can you make the words more on-off-on.

Thanks for pointing that out :thumbup:. I will take your advice for the final video.

39 minutes ago, LvdH said:

I think you misunderstood me. I was trying to say it might not be foolproof for me. :wink: 

Haha, I get it now.

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I finally managed to get a return-to-center to work for the shift lever, without taking anything away from the stiffness of the mid-console or the 'bare' feel of the shifter. Until now the shift lever had to be returned manually. This wasn't a problem, because the actual shift is completed before returning the lever. You could actually leave the shifter out-of-center until the next shift without causing any trouble.

Not completely sure whether this should be part of the final build, but it might pave the road for a HoG shifter on top of the roof. For driving the shift axle other than via the shifter requires the shift lever to be exactly in upright position when idle. To make this work I had to find a way to make two return-mechanisms - one on each side - that do not affect eachother.

To be able to play a little around with my shifter I rebuilt the entire drive train without the front and rear axles. This is what I managed to do (it only works with a 1L beam for the rear mechanism and a bush fro the front mechanism):

 

Edited by Didumos69

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Awesome but what part is that rear 1L beam attached to? The same part as the front bush because how does it not fall out then?

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43 minutes ago, Didumos69 said:

(it only works with a 1L beam for the rear mechanism and a bush fro the front mechanism)

This would drive me nuts: it's a symmetric mechanism, right? So why the asymmetry? And I echo @TheHypaaa, how come the 1L beam doesn't fall off?

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1 hour ago, TheHypaaa said:

Awesome but what part is that rear 1L beam attached to? The same part as the front bush because how does it not fall out then?

Good point. It is not attached, but it didn't fall out so far. The 3L beam in the middle moves only a little more than half a stud in both directions. So far I had to pull the pusher out and move the shift lever in the opposite direction to take the 1L beam out. But I will check again tonight. I can probably do without the 1L beam, because it doesn't really extend the pusher.

1 hour ago, Ludo Visser said:

This would drive me nuts: it's a symmetric mechanism, right? So why the asymmetry? And I echo @TheHypaaa, how come the 1L beam doesn't fall off?

I was waiting for someone to comment on the symmetry :thumbup:. Yes, the entire mechanism is symmetric. Besides having the shift lever in upright position, it was important that the two pushers almost squeeze the 3L beam in the middle - it should have no room to move - while completely eliminating interference between the two pushers. I tried all kinds of combinations, for instance with two 1L beams and with two bushes, but this was the only way to get it to work flawlessly. The shift lever can handle being a little out of ideal position. It leans slightly forward, but you have to look very accurately to see that.
 
But this doesn't explain why this doesn't work when I swap the 1L beam and the bush. This has to do with the fact that when the shift lever is in idle position, it 'likes' to lean a little forward, also without the return-to-center feature. This has to do with the fact that during the final stage of returning the shift lever, it gets a little help/kick from the knob gears getting back into idle position. Together with play in the connections this causes the horizontal lever connecting the shift lever and the knob gears to be slightly squeezed, no matter from which side you return the lever. This causes the shift lever to lean forward a little. EDIT: This doesn't make sense. I have to look into this a little deeper. I will try once more with the 1L beam and bush swapped. I'm not even sure whether I tested that after getting this to work.
Edited by Didumos69

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2 hours ago, TheHypaaa said:

Awesome but what part is that rear 1L beam attached to? The same part as the front bush because how does it not fall out then?

 

2 hours ago, Ludo Visser said:

And I echo @TheHypaaa, how come the 1L beam doesn't fall off?

I just checked and it works exactly the same without the 1l beam. Doesn't work with the bush swapped to the other pusher though. Still have to figure out why exactly.

Btw, there was an error in the build shown in the video, who can tell what?

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I guess the asymmetry comes from the asymmetrical (off-axle) rubber band location.

The error was that the changeover catches were operated in the same phase.

What's my prize?

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I find this to be an amazing build. I love the old style "see through" bodywork that really lets you see what happens underneath, while at the same time having a futuristic look. This is among my most favorite supercars.

Congrats with a briliant moddel!

-ED-

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Video recap:

3 hours ago, Lipko said:

The error was that the changeover catches were operated in the same phase.

What's my prize?

Yep, you just won yourself eternal fame :laugh:!

3 hours ago, BusterHaus said:

I like this solution, and it won't add much work to the instructions.  :thumbup:  Glad the 1L beam is gone.

Yea, I shot the video right after getting it to work. Not a good practice. Btw, I'm happy to know you're back in 'instruction' business :thumbup:.

1 hour ago, Nazgarot said:

I find this to be an amazing build. I love the old style "see through" bodywork that really lets you see what happens underneath, while at the same time having a futuristic look. This is among my most favorite supercars.

Congrats with a briliant moddel!

-ED-

Thank you very much. I hope you'll get a chance to build it someday.

3 hours ago, Lipko said:

I guess the asymmetry comes from the asymmetrical (off-axle) rubber band location.

I tried changing it from left to right but that doesn't make any difference. Also, the silicon bands are off-axle on both sides, so I wouldn't expect that to make the assymetric behavior mentioned by @Ludo Visser. But I took a closer look tonight and now I know where the difference comes from. The lower knob gear needs to pass the end of an 3x5 L-beam with a half pin inserted when it returns. The L-beam at the front is slightly better secured than the L-beam at the back. The L-beam in the front doesn't go anywhere when the knob gear returns, but the L-beam in the back shows a little movement when the knob gear passes the end of the half beam. As a result the knob gear returns slightly more easily when coming from the back, which explains why in that case the pusher does not need to push as far to make the knob gear return as when the knob gear comes from the front.

800x409.jpg

Edited by Didumos69

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I'm still in doubt whether to make the 'return-to-center'-feature part of the final model. IMO it's a little too sensitive to small displacements of other parts, where the rest of the model is not sensitive to such a thing at all. I have to improve it before I will include it. I have unlisted the video on YouTube to temper expectations.

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Why is it a concern to make it perfectly centered? An imperfect centering isn't better than no centering? If the mechanism relies on perfect centering between switches then having no centering would mean a bad user experience anyway. If it doesn't rely on perfect centering then who cares about perfect centering? I say add centering because it's how shifters work (user experience - familiraty principle)

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9 hours ago, Lipko said:

Why is it a concern to make it perfectly centered? An imperfect centering isn't better than no centering? If the mechanism relies on perfect centering between switches then having no centering would mean a bad user experience anyway. If it doesn't rely on perfect centering then who cares about perfect centering? I say add centering because it's how shifters work (user experience - familiraty principle)

The mechanism itself does not rely on perfect centering. When returning the lever manually - without the return-to-center pushers - you can return it to the center position or a little beyond. For the user this doens't come very precise and feels very intuitive, see the video below to illustrate this. It is the fact that the pushers would interfere when they would push beyond the center, which requires a perfectly centered return-to-center feature. To make sure they don't interfere, they both need to return to the exact center and not further.

After some more trial and error I figured out how to make it work. The cause of the problem was that the way the pushers are stopped (with the attached half bushes) did not work out the same for both pushers. The rear pusher inserted a little deeper into the 5x7 frame than the front pusher, which was why I needed to extend the front pusher a little. Apparently the sides of a 5x7 frame are slightly thicker than a normal beam.

To resolve this I used this 44.t1.png part to stop the pushers. Now the pushers are perfectly symmetric and work flawlessly. And the shift lever is perfectly centered. I hope this also pleases @Ludo Visser :wink:. When the shift lever is in upright / centered position, I can put a nail between the rear 44.t1.png part and the adjacent beam, whereas the front 44.t1.png part touches the adjacent 5x7 frame.

 

Edited by Didumos69

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The shifitng mechanism in the video seems great. Could you make it return to center by itself? If not I have a solution I'd be happy to mention :D

Great job

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1 hour ago, Victor Imaginator said:

Clever solution) It's really nice - to watch all these small steps on your way to perfection (ruggedness?).

Thanks! Yea, I guess I'm a bit of a perfectionist :wink:.

31 minutes ago, arshiaIQ said:

The shifitng mechanism in the video seems great. Could you make it return to center by itself? If not I have a solution I'd be happy to mention :D

Great job

It does return by itself. That's what I just added. Or do you mean return by itself without silicon bands? Feel free to share your ideas :thumbup:.

Or maybe you're referring to the stepper video.

Edited by Didumos69

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Here is the updated LXF-file. And here is an LXF-file of the drive train and shift train without axles. Note that the silicon bands for the 90 degree limiter need to be cross-wrapped around the yellow half bushes (making an 8-shape) and the silicon bands for the return-to-center pushers need to be double-wrapped around the bushes and the 44.t1.png parts.

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@Didumos69 I am not sure if this has been mentioned already, sorry if it has, but will the instructions be free or will they be purchasable? Great model btw, really my favorite supercar yet.

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15 hours ago, M5Technic said:

@Didumos69 I am not sure if this has been mentioned already, sorry if it has, but will the instructions be free or will they be purchasable? Great model btw, really my favorite supercar yet.

Thanks! The intention is to make the instructions available for free. @BusterHaus is working on it. This will take some time though and the fact that I'm still changing small things won't help :wink:.

Edited by Didumos69

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6 hours ago, Didumos69 said:

Thanks! The intention is to make the instructions available for free. @BusterHaus is working on it. This will take some time though and the fact that I'm still changing small things won't help :wink:.

Amazing news! I'll be building immediately!

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