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1 hour ago, Didumos69 said:

You mean one of the universal joints that connect to the steering wheel? Eventually you will probably be handling the car using the HoG and the steering wheel will follow your operations. The steering wheel will be hard to reach and the u-joints give the steering wheel more play compared to the HoG. Despite that, I do use the steering wheel quite a lot and sofar it did not pull the axle out of the 12 half-bevel gear.

After a quick nap, I decided to replace the 12t half-bevel gear with another... appeared that the one I used earlier had a small crack and fits much more loosely to the 3L axle than desired.

As for the return-mechanism, I was just paranoid that this might give way :laugh:. But I guess the chance is small.

There was one more point about the instructions which I forgot to mention earlier - wonder if steps 113 and 119 can go after step 122... because with the current sequence, I had to remove one of the 2x4 liftarm in order to do 122, then put it back.

I'll have to play a bit more with the shifting mechanism before making any further comments though - off hand now, I only felt it'd be ideal if less force is needed to shift it - as of now, I need to hold on the chassis before shifting, is that normal?

Sure, will take some pictures after I've done the body :sweet:.

 

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1 hour ago, PorkyMonster said:

I only felt it'd be ideal if less force is needed to shift it - as of now, I need to hold on the chassis before shifting, is that normal?

Yea, that's normal. I always have one finger behind the dash or behind the rearviewmirror to be able to operate the shifter with another finger, without moving the entire vehicle. The return-to-center needs to be this tight, because the shift mechanism needs to overcome a hurdle to return. You should try without the return-to-center and you'll know what I mean.

When all is finished the force to shift gears won't feel awkward given the rigidity of the entire model. Personally, I like to feel some resistance when I shift gears in a real car. In some cars shifting feels like stirring pudding and I hate that :wink:.

Btw, I would also love to see pictures of half-way builds :wink:.

Edited by Didumos69

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16 hours ago, Didumos69 said:

Btw, I would also love to see pictures of half-way builds :wink:.

Alright, here's something to whet ur appetite :devil:

Can see the rigidity of the flat awd chassis in this picture:

IMG_20170521_081740.jpg

Here's the front - right-handed drive, and it'll be white (hint of that from the bumper):

IMG_20170521_092654.jpg

 

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It's fun to see the different color schemes emerge.  Mine is pretty different as well, I'm planning a police car color scheme with a LBG interior.  I'm still completing the chassis, it's a very rewarding build.  It's bigger than I expected and very solid. 

33946889044_226f9586b5_o_d.jpg

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Wow! This has just gone to the top of my MUST build list! Especially because it has two of your other great ideas (that I was going to build anyway!) built into it.

Well done!

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2 hours ago, mocbuild101 said:

Wow! This has just gone to the top of my MUST build list! Especially because it has two of your other great ideas (that I was going to build anyway!) built into it.

Well done!

Thanks! Hope you'll be able to build it soon!

@PorkyMonster, @BusterHaus, thanks for the images guys! Really cool to see these different implementations. @PorkyMonster, do your adjustments to the brake calipers reveal that you're going to add different wheels? Btw, isn't the towball attached to the front calipers half a stud to high now?

Keep those images coming :thumbup:!

Edited by Didumos69

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1 hour ago, Didumos69 said:

@PorkyMonster, do your adjustments to the brake calipers reveal that you're going to add different wheels? Btw, isn't the towball attached to the front calipers half a stud to high now?

That is my intent for now... and yes, I'm aware that the towball is half-a stud higher now, but it seemed there is no effect on toe when compressed, so I'm leaving it as that for the time being, until I get the body ready to see what other adjustments are necessary, and whether I need to buy the Porsche wheels at the end :tongue:.

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6 hours ago, AFOLegofan66 said:

I'm half way on the chassis and all is going great!! I'll check out step 100 soon and put some photo's on Bricksafe.

Cool! Looking forward to your photo's!!! What's your impression so far?

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Hello,

I've built this in the last few days, and it's a very nice thing !

Extremely sturdy, quite dense and heavy (in a good way), very reliable so far.

I didn't have all the small red panels, so i substituted with white parts, here and there. I'll post pictures soon, as this is going to be shown next week-end at an expo in France, near Paris.

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1 hour ago, bj51 said:

Hello,

I've built this in the last few days, and it's a very nice thing !

Extremely sturdy, quite dense and heavy (in a good way), very reliable so far.

I didn't have all the small red panels, so i substituted with white parts, here and there. I'll post pictures soon, as this is going to be shown next week-end at an expo in France, near Paris.

Thanks! I'd love to see those pictures! The expo is VILLABÉ 2017, right? Very cool that you're going to show it there!

Edited by Didumos69

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4 hours ago, Didumos69 said:

Thanks! I'd love to see those pictures! The expo is VILLABÉ 2017, right? Very cool that you're going to show it there!

Yep, that's the one!

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Great! The color scheme is not bad at all, although the DBG 5.5 axles in the windows look messy. But I fear the 'old' wheels look quite ugly. The wheel wells are quite big already and now they really look as if something is missing. I say, buy the deep-offset -Porsche-rims and tires. You - as someone with a heart for realistic steering setups - won't regret the investment.

Now that you finished your build, you should be able to lift the car safely without displacing parts:

-By the roof
-By the spoiler / trunk door
-By the sides, with your fingers underneath the chassis and your thumb on the top-side of the door (the door should grab behind the 7L beam in the flank right behind the door).
-By the nose, with your fingers underneath the chassis and your thumb right behind the black #2 connector above/behind the grill.

Perhaps you could test this.

Edited by Didumos69

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8 hours ago, Didumos69 said:

Great! The color scheme is not bad at all, although the DBG 5.5 axles in the windows look messy. But I fear the 'old' wheels look quite ugly. The wheel wells are quite big already and now they really look as if something is missing. I say, buy the deep-offset -Porsche-rims and tires. You - as someone with a heart for realistic steering setups - won't regret the investment.

I don't have black 5.5 axles, but I'm quite ok with the DBG ones though - perhaps if you look at the model as a whole it isn't that bad (more photos below :grin:)?

Agree that the Porsche rims/tyres offer better turning pivot, and things like caster and camber can probably be included, KPI can be ignored (with good pivot I can forgo KPI), but... BUT... the turning angle is too limited... but things will be different if I do a 4-wheel steered model... 

Now that you finished your build, you should be able to lift the car safely without displacing parts:

-By the roof
-By the spoiler / trunk door
-By the sides, with your fingers underneath the chassis and your thumb on the top-side of the door (the door should grab behind the 7L beam in the flank right behind the door).
-By the nose, with your fingers underneath the chassis and your thumb right behind the black #2 connector above/behind the grill.

Perhaps you could test this.

That's right. I'm also quite tempted to drop it from, say, 1 meter and see what happens... but nah... LOL

And now, more photos!!! 

800x600.jpg 800x600.jpg

 800x1067.jpg 800x1067.jpg (and I thought my ferrari was quite SHORT and FAT... *huh*)

Certain parts and colors differ from the original (i.e. red did not become white entirely), mainly because I don't have those parts in white, or even enough pieces of certain shapes. Other than that, I've also deliberately changed this to this (for the front lights and the liftarm behind the grill), for ease of fitting.

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Hey, here are the pictures ! Sorry for the quality, potato phone, bad lighting and whatnot.

F01Hsfml.jpg

ax1Jssyl.jpg

0vwgZQOl.jpg

B64XNSil.jpg

Also don't worry, I've printed a little page to put besides your car, crediting you and listing its features.

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On 25-5-2017 at 4:10 AM, PorkyMonster said:

I don't have black 5.5 axles, but I'm quite ok with the DBG ones though - perhaps if you look at the model as a whole it isn't that bad (more photos below :grin:)?

Agree that the Porsche rims/tyres offer better turning pivot, and things like caster and camber can probably be included, KPI can be ignored (with good pivot I can forgo KPI), but... BUT... the turning angle is too limited... but things will be different if I do a 4-wheel steered model... 

That's right. I'm also quite tempted to drop it from, say, 1 meter and see what happens... but nah... LOL

And now, more photos!!!

Thanks for the photo's! I have to admit the wheels/tires you used don't look that bad after all. There are no collisions with the bodywork in turns? The fact that I'm a bit reticent about using these wheels is probably because I did everything to work the body around the Porsche wheels. If I had worked my way around the 42000 rims/tires, the wheel wells would have looked much different. The hood, for instance, would have been much wider.

Of course, your implementation of a 4WD steered model would be much different :wink:.

20 hours ago, LvdH said:

I do think the Porsche wheels look much much better, but I don't think the 42000 wheels are that ugly.

I have come to agree with that :wink:.

8 hours ago, bj51 said:

Hey, here are the pictures ! Sorry for the quality, potato phone, bad lighting and whatnot.

Also don't worry, I've printed a little page to put besides your car, crediting you and listing its features.

Thanks for the images! And thank you very much for putting this on public display! First row, that's great! Visitors might actually be able to shift gears :wink:.

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1 hour ago, Didumos69 said:

There are no collisions with the bodywork in turns?

Very slight... the inner wheel... but perhaps due to the whole model's weight of 1.9kg, the friction resulting from that is hardly noticeable when pushed along.

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Okay, because quite some people are interested in building this model with the 42000 rims and tires, here are some renders and here is the LXF-file with the adjusted brake calipers. But please bare in mind that the model was originally designed around the 42056 rims and tires.

800x450.jpg

800x450.jpg

800x450.jpg

800x450.jpg

800x450.jpg

Here you see the changes to the brake calipers that I would suggest:

400x225.jpg400x225.jpg?a=1

Edited by Didumos69

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IMHO these tires suit the model much better. For me the Porsche rims design looks ugly on such a great model.

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Just got my LEGO from the shelves back. I don't have all enough parts for building that beauty, but... but i should build it anyway) In the very beginning i found non symmetrical setup with rubber bands, that cause little axle bending. This was discussed before. I found solution to fix it.

34789684931_b0e474d4a0_c.jpg

5L axle marked with pink will be replaced (or not) with 5L axle with stop, when i move further into instructions. I hope this will not cause loss of rigidity.

Edited by Victor Imaginator

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2 hours ago, Victor Imaginator said:

Just got my LEGO from the shelves back. I don't have all enough parts for building that beauty, but... but i should build it anyway) In the very beginning i found non symmetrical setup with rubber bands, that cause little axle bending. This was discussed before. I found solution to fix it.

5L axle marked with pink will be replaced (or not) with 5L axle with stop, when i move further into instructions. I hope this will not cause loss of rigidity.

Nice solution! It will affect rigidity a little, but not noticeably, I think. Also important is that the 3x5 beam attached to the 5L axle is not too loosely secured. That would affect the behavior of the shifting mechanism.

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19 hours ago, Didumos69 said:

Nice solution! It will affect rigidity a little, but not noticeably, I think. Also important is that the 3x5 beam attached to the 5L axle is not too loosely secured. That would affect the behavior of the shifting mechanism.

Rigidity doesn't suffer, 5L axle without stop is enough. One thing that i don't like about this gear shifter (and most of other gear shifters) - age of rubber matters. I have 2 white rubber bands, both 2 years old. And tension isn't enough for returning shifter to center. But, shifter itself works perfect)

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17 minutes ago, Victor Imaginator said:

Rigidity doesn't suffer, 5L axle without stop is enough. One thing that i don't like about this gear shifter (and most of other gear shifters) - age of rubber matters. I have 2 white rubber bands, both 2 years old. And tension isn't enough for returning shifter to center. But, shifter itself works perfect)

You could drop the return-to-center entirely. I actually prefer the bare feel of the manual return. I added the return-to-center, because I thought most people would expect such a feature.

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A bit late, but I finally figured out how to make renders with the Porsche hubs, rims and tires. I also inserted them a few posts back to compare them with the 42000 wheels.

800x450.jpg

800x450.jpg

 

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