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5 hours ago, Jonfensu said:

@brunojj1 It looks interesting. Nice idea "splitting" and connecting both shifters with the central knob instead one axle connecting both XO liftarms. It saves a lot space when the knobs of both sides are placed in parallel. You have save my day :wink: and push me to make a car with a driver seat in the center because I failed to put my current shifter in the supposed Porsche 918 :laugh:(I managed to put the gearbox behind rear axle and the shifter system with the AWD behind seats but I failed connecting the shifter with the gearbox because it's far away and  the rear axle is in the middle. Going under the rear axle will introduce extra resistance and due limited space, creating a greater lever effect is not posible,  so it won't shift ) 

Thanks for your feedback, I´m glad if you could progress with some ideas!

Anyway I´ve noticed that from my pictures it´s not clear enough what the intention was. My idea is to have 2 HOG shifters in a comfortable position – near the HOG steering – one on the left shifting down and one on the right shifting up – in contrast to Didumos´ system where you have one shifter operating in both directions!

And of course the position of gearbox / shifting mechanism depends a lot on what type of car you have. My current chassis features rear wheel drive and a front fake engine.

 

DSC_0104.JPGDSC_0110.JPG

5 hours ago, Jonfensu said:

The only way to avoid ruber elements,  is making use of friction elements as Uwe did in the Porsche with two 8T gears 

Also I want to know if the red frictionless 3L connectors with the newest driving ring has less friction than using the smooth 2L connectors with the old driving rings

It´s important to use the blue cross axle pins with friction at the levers to avoid backlash.

I don´t know which parts combi would have less friction and I´m not sure if the difference really matters regarding the sliding smoothness(?...). I´m using the new Porsche parts and prefer them mainly because of the advantage that you don´t need to work half-stud here. If you are limited on parts, I think the old parts should work as good equally.

Edited by brunojj1

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On 11/16/2016 at 9:31 AM, brunojj1 said:

Thanks for your feedback, I´m glad if you could progress with some ideas!

Anyway I´ve noticed that from my pictures it´s not clear enough what the intention was. My idea is to have 2 HOG shifters in a comfortable position – near the HOG steering – one on the left shifting down and one on the right shifting up – in contrast to Didumos´ system where you have one shifter operating in both directions!

And of course the position of gearbox / shifting mechanism depends a lot on what type of car you have. My current chassis features rear wheel drive and a front fake engine.

It´s important to use the blue cross axle pins with friction at the levers to avoid backlash.

I don´t know which parts combi would have less friction and I´m not sure if the difference really matters regarding the sliding smoothness(?...). I´m using the new Porsche parts and prefer them mainly because of the advantage that you don´t need to work half-stud here. If you are limited on parts, I think the old parts should work as good equally.

Now I get it. Looks very nice and in my opinion a very original approach to HoG shifting :thumbup:. Does this mean you will also have a shifter or paddles close to the driver seat, in addition to the HoG shifters?

Edited by Didumos69

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Thanks! No, there won´t be any additional shifters at the driver´s seat, at least not in this car. I have simulated fake pedals though at the steering wheel which don´t to anything. Not impossible to make them work in general, but for that type of working fake pedals behind the steering wheel (moving simultaniously, not shifting gears like in the Porsche) you would need separate connections from both shifters to be routed through the cardan. Of course such a function is a dream like in PvdB´s Koenigsegg... Could be a task for my next bigger manual car, we´ll see :wink:...

 

 

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On 20-2-2017 at 2:57 PM, nicjasno said:

This is an awesome mechanism!

Thanks! I'm using the same mechanism in my Hammerhead albeit with the shift lever separated from the stepper.

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I thought somebody stole my idea, but he actually referenced my stepper as a source of inspiration. I didn't see that right away. Thumbs up :thumbup::thumbup:!

 

Edited by Didumos69

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@Didymos69 Would it be possible to explain the main differences between the V2 Stepper and the stepper you used for your Rugged Supercar (FST NML)? Because in the FST NML I cannot see any backlash while moving the shifter back to the center position after shifting... (actually,  maybe you mentioned that somewhere, but I missed it... :sceptic:)

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17 minutes ago, AttentionSpanner said:

@Didymos69 Would it be possible to explain the main differences between the V2 Stepper and the stepper you used for your Rugged Supercar (FST NML)? Because in the FST NML I cannot see any backlash while moving the shifter back to the center position after shifting... (actually,  maybe you mentioned that somewhere, but I missed it... :sceptic:)

There is no difference as far as I know. I see the same backlash in the FST NML gearbox (when looking at the DBG paddles attached to the shifting axle). Due to play in the 9L links the backlash has little effect on the change-over catches.

 

Edited by Didumos69

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