BrickTracks: different curves, PF/9V compatible

[SD100]

...sitting here hitting refresh on the tracking info over and over again...

[coaster]

We've already blasted through our first batch of switches, but don't worry, the second batch is due any day now.  New orders will be a couple weeks though before they ship.

[Wabbajack]

On 3/10/2021 at 12:11 AM, coaster said:

We've already blasted through our first batch of switches, but don't worry, the second batch is due any day now.  New orders will be a couple weeks though before they ship.

I am delighted that the products are selling well. I am planning to get some switches and a r104 loop from habricks.com this year and I will get the double crossing once it comes out.
I think you can, and are planning to, reuse the switches "R104 base A" mold and just add a center crossing section between for the double crossing?

Looking forward to it and I wish you a lot of success in this.

[legotownlinz]

I'm experience a problem with the switches if a train passes the switch with the switch blade in the wrong position. The switch becomes non-functional. The functionality can be restored by moving the switch blade until it snaps again, nevertheless, it is annoying and I'm worried that after some time it won't snap anymore.

Out of four switches, it always happens with one switch and sometimes with a second switch.

 

 

[M_slug357]

@legotownlinz You have to take the blade off (this can be done with a brick separator) and readjust the rubber band underneath, such that both sides of that band are equally stressed. 
Hope this description helps?

[legotownlinz]

6 hours ago, M_slug357 said:

@legotownlinz You have to take the blade off (this can be done with a brick separator) and readjust the rubber band underneath, such that both sides of that band are equally stressed. 
Hope this description helps?

This won't damage the switch blade? I assume the brick separator shall be used as close as possible to the pivot point of the blade?

[M_slug357]

@legotownlinz The switch blade has a sort of half-pin connection to the switch base. As long as you ease it out gently, you should be able to pop it out without damage. I’ve done this about 3 times— albeit not on the same switch — and all now function as specified.

[SD100]

You can also pry the bottom off and fix it, it's not glued or anything.

SD

[legotownlinz]

Thank you for your help, I managed to fix it. As suggested, I carefully removed the switch blade with the brick separator. Be really careful, I nearly damaged the connector (it got a small white spot). Both sides of the rubber band were equally stressed. What solves the issue is to lift the rubber band so that it is not in tough with the base. It seems the tolerances of the gap between the pin on the switch blade (that should stay between the two sides of the rubber band) and the base are too high.

I was expected that a metal spring is used. The rubber band is a bad design decision because no rubber band survives for more than 20-30 years while all other ABS parts of the switch have a lifetime of >100 years. Rubber bands were also used in the drives of many audio and VHS cassette decks and none of these decks from the 80ies and 90ies work any longer because the rubber bands got brittle and tore off. Of course the issues can easily be fixed by replacing the rubber bands, but it's more likely that the products will be disposed. 

 

Edited July 24, 2021 by legotownlinz

[zephyr1934]

On 7/23/2021 at 12:12 PM, legotownlinz said:

I'm experience a problem with the switches if a train passes the switch with the switch blade in the wrong position. The switch becomes non-functional. The functionality can be restored by moving the switch blade until it snaps again, nevertheless, it is annoying and I'm worried that after some time it won't snap anymore.

 

On 7/23/2021 at 1:56 PM, M_slug357 said:

You have to take the blade off (this can be done with a brick separator) and readjust the rubber band underneath, such that both sides of that band are equally stressed. 

 

On 7/24/2021 at 4:15 AM, legotownlinz said:

 

 

 

All of the above is excellent information. An ABS spring would be preferred, but I'm sure the design cost of doing so would have been insane to prototype. Having these switches with rubber bands at this price is much better than not having them or having them at a much higher price with some other solution.

If it is only a matter of servicing the switches every 20 years to replace the rubber bands that is probably reasonable (hopefully finding the right rubber bands won't be too difficult). In the long run it would be nice to have this information documented on an FAQ on the BT site though. Preferably as a pdf.

[coaster]

On 7/23/2021 at 11:12 AM, legotownlinz said:

I'm experience a problem with the switches if a train passes the switch with the switch blade in the wrong position. The switch becomes non-functional. The functionality can be restored by moving the switch blade until it snaps again, nevertheless, it is annoying and I'm worried that after some time it won't snap anymore.

Out of four switches, it always happens with one switch and sometimes with a second switch.

 

 

It is a known issue that can occur on the first batch of switches that went out.  We've since resolved the problem, but the good news is it's easy to fix.  I will post a video on the repair in the next few days.

[SD100]

How's that video coming? I've got a bunch of the switches and that rubber band is a pain. Even a thicker one like the Lego one might help a bit, or making that pin larger so it can't slip through. I love that trains can fly through these switches, but I have to inspect and fix them all the time.

SD100

[Ts__]

I have had some of the switches in operation for 4-5 days at a large exhibition. There and also in the run-up at home I had the problem with a few switches as legotownlinz. Even after hooking it occurred repeatedly - annoying.

But much worse I find the very weak mechanics in the turntable. The plastic part there is much too thin and can easily be destroyed by hand. The first damage I had created with a drive (Lego Boost Interactive motor, regulated down), the second by hand. And this 2 days before the start of the exhibition... Panic mode turned on and the switches only treated like cotton balls!... Fortunately, none more destroyed during the exhibition and I still had free switches to replace there.

Conclusion: the switches look really good, the surface is great and they are also very well traveled. I also like the easy motorizability.
But the mechanics IN the turntable is not good and must be improved. I try to repair my 2 defective switches with wire or to print a stronger connection part. In the original state, the connecting part between rotation and slider is a misconstruction. Sorry for the harsh words, but that's the way it is.

 

Thomas

Edited September 23, 2021 by Ts__

[coaster]

Hi @Ts__, I can send you a couple replacement switch stands and base pieces if you like.  The switch stands only are meant for 180° of rotation though, so forcing it beyond that will indeed snap those linkages.  Email me at info@bricktracks.com.

[Ts__]

4 hours ago, coaster said:

I can send you a couple replacement switch stands and base pieces if you like

That would be great. Thanks!

 

4 hours ago, coaster said:

The switch stands only are meant for 180° of rotation though, so forcing it beyond that will indeed snap those linkages.

Yes, the 180° is clear and correct. However, relatively little force (by hand) was enough to break out the 2nd eyelet.
I destroyed the first switch with a small motor. A small PU program to start determined the end stops and from then on the turnout was always approached to the correct value without force.
I had used the PU Boost Interactive motor with rechargeable batteries (7.2V) and had reduced the force in the program to 50%.
In order not to have to constantly change rechargeable batteries at the exhibition, I had then switched to a 9V transformer. The higher voltage was then probably too much and has destroyed the first switch. In the search for the cause, I had then destroyed the second by hand. That went with surprisingly little force.

I also did not want to just rant publicly here, but also warn other users. Be careful ;-)

From the basic principle I like the switches. Turning is great and you can also easily represent the switchsignal for the position of the switch.

BSBT 2021 Rangierbahnhof Zwickau Bakken Weichenbereich by Thomas / Ts__, auf Flickr

 

Thomas

 

 

Edited September 24, 2021 by Ts__

[ScotNick]

8 hours ago, coaster said:

Hi @Ts__, I can send you a couple replacement switch stands and base pieces if you like.  The switch stands only are meant for 180° of rotation though, so forcing it beyond that will indeed snap those linkages.  Email me at info@bricktracks.com.

Do you think it would be possible to manufacture those linkages from steel or some other sort of metal?

[JochemvdMeulen]

On 9/24/2021 at 10:33 AM, ScotNick said:

Do you think it would be possible to manufacture those linkages from steel or some other sort of metal?

I think that could cause problems with wear

[Henry 991]

On 9/23/2021 at 7:29 PM, Ts__ said:

I have had some of the switches in operation for 4-5 days at a large exhibition. There and also in the run-up at home I had the problem with a few switches as legotownlinz. Even after hooking it occurred repeatedly - annoying.

But much worse I find the very weak mechanics in the turntable. The plastic part there is much too thin and can easily be destroyed by hand. The first damage I had created with a drive (Lego Boost Interactive motor, regulated down), the second by hand. And this 2 days before the start of the exhibition... Panic mode turned on and the switches only treated like cotton balls!... Fortunately, none more destroyed during the exhibition and I still had free switches to replace there.

Conclusion: the switches look really good, the surface is great and they are also very well traveled. I also like the easy motorizability.
But the mechanics IN the turntable is not good and must be improved. I try to repair my 2 defective switches with wire or to print a stronger connection part. In the original state, the connecting part between rotation and slider is a misconstruction. Sorry for the harsh words, but that's the way it is.

 

Thomas

The switch is great, but I had the same issue with that weak linkage. My 3- and 5-year-olds destroyed that thin part in minutes when I left the switch on a table.

I was able to repair the part with CA glue.

If that fix does not work, I will machine a part of brass or mild steel.

Best

Henry

[Ts__]

Today a small shipment from the USA came to me with the spare parts. I say thank you for the uncomplicated, nice contact!

Best regards,

Thomas

 

[Ropefish]

How hard would it be to replace the thin plastic with thin aluminum?

[Dhivael]

Seems like this page has been awfully quiet for the last 6 months. Has something happened? @coaster any updates on future projects?