Mutak

[HELP] Motors to make 42039 Radio Controlled

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Hello.

I just bought the Lego 42039 set, and immediatel after building it I thought it would be cool to make this model radio controlled. The instruction contains step by step guide to attach motor for door or to attach the lights, but there is no instruction how to make it.

I'm 26 years, and I don't have my old lego anymore, and this is my only set which I have right now ( I always loved lego!). I'm wondering which motors I would need to buy, to make this car a radio controlled one. I have found few howto videos in google and youtube, but they are not mentioning the sets which you need. I saw that sometimes instrcutions are mentioning 'L Motor' or something like that, but I really don't know what it means and which set contains it. Can you please provide me some guidelines how to add RC functionallity to such model ? Maybe those parts which they are mentioning are spare parts, not in any set?

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The easiest way is to use 2 pf-l motors for propulsion and a servo for steering. You need a battery box and a v2 ir-reciever plus a remote. That's it for the motors. With this you would remove they're engine and put the pf-lmotors there. In the buwizz review from Jim is a nice picture with of a chassis with this setup

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I will try to translate what did you said to a newbie language, and please tell me if that's the truth. So basically I need:

1. 2 pf-l morotrs - like that: http://shop.lego.com/en-US/Power-Functions-L-Motor-88003 x2 ?

2. servo like this: http://shop.lego.com/en-US/Power-Functions-Servo-Motor-88004 ?

3. Battery box: http://shop.lego.com/en-CA/LEGO-Power-Functions-Battery-Box-8881 ?

4. v2 ir-receiver: http://shop.lego.com/en-US/LEGO-Power-Functions-IR-Receiver-8884

5. Remote: http://shop.lego.com/en-AT/LEGO-Power-Functions-IR-Remote-Control-8885

and thats it ? I'm not sure about which buwizz review are you talking ? I couldn't find it (I'm really new in suhc things, sorry).

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The V2 IR receiver is not sold separately on the Lego website. You may try bricklink.com, but I don't remember the models being differentiated. The surest way to get one is to pick up a used 9398 set, it will include all the items on your list: two L motors, a servo motor, battery box and remote control. It will also provide a lot of parts that you can use for the modification of the 42039. A used 9398 set is marginally more expensive than all the Power Functions parts bought separately.

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<p>

The V2 IR receiver is not sold separately on the Lego website. You may try bricklink.com, but I don't remember the models being differentiated. The surest way to get one is to pick up a used 9398 set, it will include all the items on your list: two L motors, a servo motor, battery box and remote control. It will also provide a lot of parts that you can use for the modification of the 42039. A used 9398 set is marginally more expensive than all the Power Functions parts bought separately.

Are you serious? I'm in the uk, and that set costs like ~150 pounds. It's more than 42039 ;> In lego shop, those parts which I've linked cost around 70 pounds, of course with the first version of the receiver.

I'm wondering if for example this set:

http://www.ebay.co.u...4MAAOSw9k5XQXCR is not enoguh (I know that the servo is missing, but this can be bought separately). What are the differences between v1 and v2 of this receiver?

update: I checked in google that difference is:

The IR Receiver V2 version has an improved motor driver giving you lower power loss and longer battery lifetime

If that's the difference, I would prefer to buy v1 with 2 battery boxes. This v2 is available only in the set which you mentioned, so in case of fail, it would be hard to replace it.

Edited by Mutak

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You'de probably get away with just using a V1 receiver. If that doesn't work for you you could use 2 V1 receivers both set to the same channel and have a motor driven from each of them. Or you could use an XL motor powered from one V1 receiver.

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What do you mean by performance issues? Does it lost connection with the remote controller ?

By the way, sorry for so many basic questions, I'm really new to the motorized lego stuff.

Edited by Mutak

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The V1 IR Receivers have less efficiency for RC models, they tend to fail when the distance is increased between them and the control and the connection range isnĀ“t enough, they also have less power than than V2 ones, so it is better to get The V2 ones for better "performance", for example, more speed, more power, more torque, more control and more range of connection.

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I haven't seen that. Thank you.

I think that I will go with the v1 receivers, as v2 are almost unreachable.

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Are you serious? I'm in the uk, and that set costs like ~150 pounds. It's more than 42039 ;> In lego shop, those parts which I've linked cost around 70 pounds, of course with the first version of the receiver.

Used sets are under $190 Canadian dollars.

http://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?id=110518#T=P

If it's a more local seller you can ask to include shipping (I did this). New power functions listed above come up to $95 Canadian. The set has 4 of these shock absorbers

http://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=95292c01&idColor=3#T=P&C=3

Each shock absorber is just under $12 (Canadian) so you're paying roughly $50 for a nice wheels/tires and over 1,200 parts. It's a very good deal.

Edited by BusterHaus

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The second one has a variable speed control; the first is simply on or off.

so basically, the second one is better?

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No.. they are different

Speed controller was originally designed for trains, it has 7 different speed settings, but it's hard to make it go 'instant full power'

when used with the servo unit, it gives you incremental control, but you lose the return-to-centre feature, while using the dial on the remote

it has the ability to send a signal, and have it 'stick' to the iR controller, and not need constant line of sight.

it also has the red 'instant off' button - designed to quickly prevent train crashes

the original 8885 is simply on/off full power

both have pros and cons... always handy to have at least one of each, and discover for yourself which is suitable for your project :)

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Get the simpler, smaller remote please. For a moving vehicle like this one the variable controls are bad and you can lose control easily. The simple controller, as Rohan said, takes advantage of the return to center function of the servo which is a must for your MOD.

Edited by z3_2drive

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You could also copy the setup I used. It leaves ample space for other PF mods. You will need to lose the fake engine.

I always feel jealous when I see these fancy lovely stuff which I can't have them and I'm not going ti be able too...

I hope I could ;(

Sorry a bit off topic

You'de probably get away with just using a V1 receiver. If that doesn't work for you you could use 2 V1 receivers both set to the same channel and have a motor driven from each of them. Or you could use an XL motor powered from one V1 receiver.

Its a better idea to not set the channels the same, but different

So one output will be for steering, and one L-motor on each of other outputs, a differential between engines should be added, so it gives you two or three speeds for drive with no gearbox

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