Didumos69

[MOD] 42056 Porsche 911 GT3 RS - Community-driven Errata

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Hi, new builder here, just have a quick question - if I construct this using no modifications whatsoever, and intend to simply display it and toy-around with the features at my leisure, would I be sorely missing out? I guess what I'm asking is, is the base model "passable" for a casual Lego fan?

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@Elvis2500: If you don't mind and if you don't be annoyed about:

- way to weak front suspension which hardly can hold the model 1 stud above ground and which hardly come back if you press it down

- somehow medicre gear switching mechanism which is not very reliable, means often the next gear does not lock in correctly so the whole drive-train stalls

- bad playability cause of the missing HoG (hand of God) for easy steering because the inner driving wheel is hardly accessible for a male hand

- you can not see the inner goodies because the porsche shell covers all so all mechanisms are quite invisible

So if all these pitfalls are no problem for you and if your model is just for a beauty display then the retail model 42056 is of course "passable"...

But i would strongly recommend you to build this:

it contains all of @Didumos69 errata and much more - it is IMHO easily the best and easiest deal to get a full and reliable working Porsche for only small additional money and with full blown step-by-step PDF-Instructions for free.

Edited by Kumbbl

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15 minutes ago, Kumbbl said:

But i would strongly recommend you to build this:

it contains all of @Didumos69 errata and much more - it is IMHO easily the best and easiest deal to get a full and reliable working Porsche for only small additional money and with full blown step-by-step PDF-Instructions for free.

I completely agree with @Kumbbl. The stock model is displayable, but when it comes to the features you will probably find out that it's better to not touch them.

Also in my opinion the pimp-up-version @Kumbbl is referring to is the most easy way to fix all issues and to add some extras like HoG steering, better front suspension and a removable body. It even comes with full instructions.

Edited by Didumos69

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Hi

I need some explanation about this :

http://bricksafe.com/files/Didumos/42056-porsche/Errata (12).jpg/450x270.jpg

If I do as described, the gearbox does not control the transmission ... So I replace this with a simple axis and everything works properly.

At first I was thinking about an error in the errata pdf .. now I do not understand .. 

Thanks for your explain :)

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On 7/15/2016 at 5:21 PM, Didumos69 said:

The errata will help you implement the necessary fixes while building the model from scratch. It provides a list of extra parts you need (only 30 small and commonly used parts) and a sequence of steps that serve as a replacement of the corresponding steps in the original building instructions. All can be found in this PDF.

The following summarizes what has been included concerning the gear shifting mechanism:

  • I applied Paul Boratko's gear sequence fix as described in Jim's review.
  • I flipped the change-over-catches in paddle-shifter-unit by 180 degrees (as suggested by Attika).
  • I added the simple 90° limiter to the gear selector axle; used two of the four white silicon bands.
  • I removed the 8 tooth gears used to add friction; minimized friction in the selector axle instead.
  • I used only one silicon band for each paddle shifter; wrapped it around the neck of the ball joint once.
  • I extended both change-over-catches in the gearbox with half a stud (more info here).

The following summarizes what has been included concerning the drive train:

The errata include a 4th-to-1st gear block, but do not provide instructions for additional features like HoG steering or a removable body. I was a little bit in doubt whether to include all changes to the axle scheme or not. Blakbird - who has test-driven this set of modifications, thanks for that! - was already satisfied without applying all changes to avoid connectors from rubbing against liftarms. I decided to include them anyway, beacuse I think it's simply a matter of good practice and since these errata are specifically useful when you build the model from scratch, it's an easy gain.

For all MODs that are included in the errata I made a LDD-file of Box 1. showing the differences in terms of groups: In each group there is a subgroup containing the old structure and a subgroup containing the new structure. All new structures are embedded in the complete chassis and all old structures are placed to the side of the chassis. By clicking on a subgroup you select all parts in that group. That way you can inspect the differences. Besides the modifications listed above the LDD-file contains HoG steering.

If there is anything unclear or if you find errors, please let me know. The idea is to make thing more fun, so all should be clear and correct.

Thanks to everybody who shared his/her improvements!

450x270.jpg450x270.jpg450x270.jpg

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hi i would like some help with some of the fixes and mods would that be okay thank you very much this is must first time building such a big set and also doing mods and u seem to be an expert at what you are doing anyways cheers 

 

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Hi All,

 

Please can I get some advice after various rebuilds I have followed the instruction for the modifications as documented by @Didumos69(Thanks for the great instructions and summarizing all the changes) but I still seem to getting to much friction in the drive train etc, I was wondering if anyone has modded and removed bit pictures below and inserts a straight axle all the way through?

450x270.jpg

 

Thanks all.

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Hello there, I have a bit of a situation if you guys would help me please, especially @Didumos69

So I have just bought the 42056 set, haven't gotten to start building it. What I use this set for...well mostly for display...but of course I have to admit that from time to time I would like to tinker with the mechanics, it's a technic set after all.

I have been wondering around this site searching for some easy fixes for the "main" issues this set has, finding that errata and so on...and by issues I'm not talking about HOG or easy disassemble mod....

Here is what I actually want and how I got here in the first place. I saw in a review on youtube that the gear mechanism is wrong...gears go 1-3-2-4...and I started searching and found out a lot of other mini problems....mostly on this forum...what I want to do is to fix some of the most important problems...but without adding extra pieces....first of all I don't really want to MOD it...I want to keep it the way it comes in package...secondly, I can't even MOD it because I don't have any other technic sets....all I have are some architecture sets....don't have that much lego myself.

I found that the errata shows precisely how to fix the mechanics of this car....but...it shows them as a whole....it says in the beginning a list of things...and then does everything combined.....my question is...could you guys point me the changes that can be made with the sets pieces...without adding anyting. What I've learned so far is:

1) To fix the gear sequence all I need to do is switch some gears in step 267-269...so no addition of any other piece here...right?

2) @Attika presented a simple way to stop the mechanism from jamming by rotating those two red pieces 180%....

3) I don't know if I'm totally correct here but Blackbird suggested that just by removing a small pin joiner in step 5....there is significant less friction....

Are there any other quick fixes that can be made without adding new pieces???

I apologize if I wasn't supposed to tag people here....I actually wanted to send didumos a private message but for some reason I can't....

Thanks in advance and good work for the people who've done this.

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Hello @yoyoseby_97, welcome to the forum. I understand what you're aiming for, but I do not have the time to figure out how to do the essential mods without adding parts. If you really don't want to add parts, you could try to figure it out in the digital files I shared, but my advice would be to order the few extra parts via bricklink.com.

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Well, you could tell me, when you have some spare time, which steps in your errata are achievable without adding pieces, I ask this because besides the obvious steps that I can see have no parts addition, I assume some steps are connected to each other....for example....there is a row of 1-2-3-4-5 steps....and steps 1-2 have no piece addition but 3-4-5 have piece addition...and I also cannot do 1-2....without 3-4-5 because they are connected directly....I hope i've made myself clear

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3 hours ago, yoyoseby_97 said:

Well, you could tell me, when you have some spare time, which steps in your errata are achievable without adding pieces, I ask this because besides the obvious steps that I can see have no parts addition, I assume some steps are connected to each other....for example....there is a row of 1-2-3-4-5 steps....and steps 1-2 have no piece addition but 3-4-5 have piece addition...and I also cannot do 1-2....without 3-4-5 because they are connected directly....I hope i've made myself clear

What you're asking for isn't as straightforward as you perhaps think, because these modifications weren't created with the parameter to use only the parts included with the set. The goal was, loosely speaking, to make to the model the best it could be without deviating too far from the original design, and that's what was achieved. 

The 'Pimp My Porsche' model that was created was far, far better than what was released as standard, and would be far better than what you could create with original parts, so for the minimal additional cost and effort that's required, there really isn't any reason not to build it.

You should be able to find the parts list here that you can export to Bricklink or similar.

https://rebrickable.com/sets/compare/slow/?1-set=MOC-8003&1-inv=18016&1-user_list=&2-set=42056-1&2-inv=11015&2-user_list=

Don't convince yourself to cut corners and deny yourself this great model. :wink:

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Well, I will built it stock first and if I'm not pleased at all with how it performs, I guess I'm gonna have to buy the extra parts...

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Posted (edited)

So, I've made a mini experiment. Some important things before I tell you exactly what and what. This is my first technic set....the biggest and most complex one...my other lego sets are 2nd generation bionicle....and skyline architecture sets...so small sets...what I wanted to experiment is to see for myself how these gears work and since I don't have lego motors to hook up and see the pistons moving like probably most of you guys did....I had to appeal at this old fashion...which yeah probably it isn't that accurate but....better than nothing:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/188882501@N03/shares/Y63LYH

So what I did exactly:

1) I built the first box, but with the minimal changes that I could do from the errata without using new pieces (I didn't want to unbuild my bionicle), meaning that I replaced the pin in step 5, I used @Attika's solution and lastly I switched step 267 with 269 (gear sequence fix) and I tested the car and indeed it still had a lot of friction especially in gears 3 and 4, meaning that I needed to do the entire errata build if I wanted to see a difference

2) I though to myself (let's try the stock version, it couldn't be that bad) so I rebuilt the first box exactly as in the instructions and...just hear me out please:

The gearbox works perfectly....I have no friction at all...and the speeds actually work correctly. The pistons don't move right...that's true but the gear speeds are in the right order. That's what I found out with my slingh shot experiment. I put a duct tape line so I would pull the sling shot equally everytime...when the pistons move the slowest, aka how the 4th gear should be in reality but in this lego technic this is the 1st gear....the car went the furthest....almost hit the wall.....then in the second gear...when the pistons move 2nd faster (aka 3rd gear on pistons speed), the car travelled significantly less distance then the first gear, moving to the 3rd gear, the car travelled again less then the second gear...but no significantly, and again in the 4th gear when the pistons move the fastest...the car travelled the least amount of distance...tho it was very close to the 3rd gear.....I've redone the test 3 times....and everytime....it worked perfectly....1st gear = the farthest, 2nd gear = close to 1st, 3rd gear = close to 2nd, 4th gear = close to 3rd. I pushed the car in the band, I pulled the band and just put the car in front of it, I have tried different variations of "sling shooting" the car, and each time it worked normally. (I have locked the front wheels so it would go straight forward)

Now I know you people might say that...this doesn't prove anything, that this isn't math which I've seen you've already done with the gear ratios, but...it's a practical test, that for me at least (unless I'm dumb and got the conclusion wrong in which case I would like you people to point it out to me), proved that the gearbox works how it should work (besides the reverse 4 gear part you know). I mean, yeah the pistons are wrong....but you guys, testing the gearbox by looking at the pistons (I'm assuming this because I dunno how else you figured it out that the gearbox is flawed) tells me that the problem is with the pistons alone and not the gearbox. I mean if I build the full car...the pistons aren't visible anymore...and I switch gears...I happens what it should....car's wheels turn easily, than a little bit harder and harder with each speed I switch, which is in fact what it is supposed to do. 

I know that probably the errata fixes the pistons and keeps the gearbox intact and has less friction and so on, but for someone who doesn't have technical parts to spare and also don't wanna buy other pieces, I think the gearbox works just perfect. If anything, you guys have some spare time and are bored, try this testing method, see how the vehicle works not how the pistons move, and see for yourself (again tell me if I'm wrong) that the stock version of the gearbox does what it's supposed to do...I mean...with the sequence....the reverse and the 1-4 4-1 jumps are not normal but hei....it's a toy after all.

Another test could be to build some sort of ramp, let the vehicle go from the same height and see how far it goes. I've done this one because that's what I had around at home but I assume that the ramp test would actually be more accurate.

Edited by yoyoseby_97

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