Which ME Models curves to get?

[JGW3000]

So I got the kid the 60052 Cargo Train for his birthday, and looking to extend the possibilities of the layout. His train table is 4' by 6' (122 cm x 183 cm), so there will be room to add a second loop and some switches, etc... I see that ME Models now has R56, R72 and R88 ABS curves for sale on BL. Which do you think is best, or combinations - suggestions greatly appreciated.

[xboxtravis7992]

Assuming R56 means a radius of 56"; then it looks like most ME curves wouldn't fit on a 4' x 6' table. It could be used for a spur, but I doubt a whole curve of ME rails could fit on that table.

Then again I might be wrong I haven't researched them to much. I'm just assuming R56 is 56" following similar model railroad parlance. For all I know it's 56 centimeters, something that could easily fit within that space (?)

[JGW3000]

Xbox - I'm thinking the 'R' designation is in studs - LEGO curves are R40, which then gives a radius of 32 cm, assuming 0.8 cm/stud

Edited July 12, 2016 by JGW3000

[M_slug357]

If your math is correct (idk if it is or isn't), then you may want to go for the bigger R88 ones?

If my math is correct, you would then have a high speed friendly outer loop that has at least 5-6 inch margins on the straightaways, enough for partial buildings & landscapes.

[dr_spock]

With 4 feet (1219mm) x 6 feet table , you could probably use up to R72 curves. http://www.brickdimensions.com/resources/TrackSchematicLibrary.png

[pirzyk]

Yes the R56 is 56 studs. If you are going to use baseplates under the track here is what you will need:

R40 -> 15" for quarter curve, 30" (3 baseplates) for a half curve.

R56 -> 20" (2 baseplates), 4 Baseplates for half curve

R72 -> 25" (2 1/2 baseplates), 5 Baseplates

R88 -> 30" (3 baseplates), 6 Baseplates

R104 -> 35" (3 1/2 Baseplates), 7 baseplates

Since the table is 48" you can probably squeeze the R72s in w/o baseplates (since there are 4 studs on each side to the edge of the baseplate.

Edited July 12, 2016 by pirzyk

[xboxtravis7992]

So R56 is talking about studs... That makes a lot of sense now. I was thinking of a R56 as 56" and was thinking it had to be one huge curve...

[Legoboy22]

Maybe you should not get ME models rails if you have a kid because he will love making things fall of curves and Lego has much stronger rails. If you want long curves use straight rails and make one side one stud longer than the other like 9 volt train fan does. Your Kid will probably like it better

[relhak]

I wouldn't recommend ME rails for a kid. They're built from separate rails and ties, and their clutch power is pretty bad so they tend to pop apart easily. Like complete separation from a 10" drop. Plus they often have some slight bowing up, which leads to derailing when they start working themselves apart. They need to be glued and fully ballasted (the weight reduces the bowing) to be anything less than very frustrating.

Don't get me wrong, I have at least a full loop of each size, and use the 72/88/104s mostly. But I also have a 10x10 layout at home and run 10x15' (or larger) displays at shows with longer train cars that don't do well on R40. And I fully ballast anyway, so it's not as much extra hassle for me.

stuart

[JGW3000]

Good advice all, thanks and appreciated! I may just get a loop of the R56 and maybe some Kragle and base plates to fix them. My son likes working with parts and MOC'ing, so he will figure out the best way to get them to stick together. He is already building straight sections with some old rails I gave him, building his own straight track sections.

[zephyr1934]

Yes, if you glue the ties to the rails the ME tracks are excellent. As for sizing, keep in mind that a 32x32 baseplate is about 10"x10"

[Legoboy22]

I think it is a terrible Idea to use glue because it is so unlego like.

[Railfan9]

I think it is a terrible Idea to use glue because it is so unlego like.

But with ME track the ties can pop apart from the rails really easy.

[legoman666]

I think it is a terrible Idea to use glue because it is so unlego like.

The tracks themselves are not Lego, so who gives a crap if they're glued or not? It's like arguing over glueing Megablocks.

[dr_spock]

You could use hot glue. It will provide some extra hold but not as strong or hard to remove as Kragle or epoxy.

It really depend on how rough or gentle you or your child plays with LEGO trains.

[M_slug357]

But with ME track the ties can pop apart from the rails really easy.

When you say that they come undone easily, do you mean when the rails are picked up &moved?

Or when long, heavy consists happen to roll over them, there's a % chance for dislodged rails?

The first scenario is okay for me, but the second is not, especially if said curves are toward the edge of the table...

I'd say the glue option is a sticky one, at best.

Not sure what others are doing with ME rails, but what about narrow gauge? I think that'll be the first thing for me to fiddle with if/when I ever get any...

Your thoughts?

edit: I am officially a 'citizen' of Eurobricks! Now I can vote! :)

Edited July 20, 2016 by M_slug357

[Railfan9]

When you say that they come undone easily, do you mean when the rails are picked up &moved?

Or when long, heavy consists happen to roll over them, there's a % chance for dislodged rails?

The first scenario is okay for me, but the second is not, especially if said curves are toward the edge of the table...

I'd say the glue option is a sticky one, at best.

Not sure what others are doing with ME rails, but what about narrow gauge? I think that'll be the first thing for me to fiddle with if/when I ever get any...

Your thoughts?

edit: I am officially a 'citizen' of Eurobricks! Now I can vote! :)

The track comes in pieces, and the buyer has to assemble pieces to make the track sections, and I have found if not on a completely flat surface the track will pop apart. Plus if you are going to be picking up the track, and putting it back down it will come apart.

[zephyr1934]

Yes, without glue the track will come apart when handling. Gluing it makes it more "lego-like" in terms of function, providing a single track section. I have also found that when running heavy trains the outside rail will slowly give way and release itself from the ties below, especially at the joints between sections (a single stud holds the rails down at that point, so usually the stud comes off before the joiner pieces separate). So I used ABS plasti-weld (same stuff lego uses for the large scale models... but then again, lego is not against painting the bricks in the parks too), it is nice because it won't glue you and once set it is a tighter bond than the ABS itself. But agreed, not something for purists even when wandering away from pure lego parts to the stuff lego SHOULD produce for AFOLs.

[Legoboy22]

Yes, without glue the track will come apart when handling. Gluing it makes it more "lego-like" in terms of function, providing a single track section. I have also found that when running heavy trains the outside rail will slowly give way and release itself from the ties below, especially at the joints between sections (a single stud holds the rails down at that point, so usually the stud comes off before the joiner pieces separate). So I used ABS plasti-weld (same stuff lego uses for the large scale models... but then again, lego is not against painting the bricks in the parks too), it is nice because it won't glue you and once set it is a tighter bond than the ABS itself. But agreed, not something for purists even when wandering away from pure lego parts to the stuff lego SHOULD produce for AFOLs.

I guess you are right but I wish Lego made more variety with curves. (No I do not mean annoying flexi track) but being the purist I am I use the system of 9vtrain fan and it works very well. Also as a side note where do you get this abs plastiweld. I could use that for some broken blue rails from when I was little.

[relhak]

When you say that they come undone easily, do you mean when the rails are picked up &moved?

Or when long, heavy consists happen to roll over them, there's a % chance for dislodged rails?

The first scenario is okay for me, but the second is not, especially if said curves are toward the edge of the table...

I had a show where I simply laid ME track on bare baseplates. About a third of my track wasn't glued completely (I put the MEK on too thin - it needs a full drop per joint). I had two spots that wouldn't stay attached for more than a half hour, so we were literally going around every 5 minutes pushing them back down. Otherwise they'd derail the train. We couldn't run the Maersk or Emerald Night with the snow plows because they'd catch the ends of the rail Same with the Maersk's cargo car which rides about a half plate above the rail.

I tried a show with unballasted, unglued ME rails, and had to replace it with Lego R40 before we even opened.

I know people who've far less problems with their rails, but they got earlier batches.

MEK= Methyl Ethyl Ketone. It's about $10/quart in the paint aisle at home improvement stores. Use it outside with a fan, as it's really rough on your brain cells. It dissolves the plastic, leaving it welded together when it evaporates. No mess, but if it drips down the plastic, it will wash away the color, leaving a whitish mark.

Edited July 20, 2016 by relhak

[JGW3000]

Thanks again for all the tips. I'd be getting some JB Weld ABS Plastiweld...

[zephyr1934]

I guess you are right but I wish Lego made more variety with curves. (No I do not mean annoying flexi track) but being the purist I am I use the system of 9vtrain fan and it works very well. Also as a side note where do you get this abs plastiweld. I could use that for some broken blue rails from when I was little.

I got it in a hobby store, it is quite common in those venues, I believe it is MEK as per a post between my last and here, probably cheaper per oz. in a hardware store.

I had a show where I simply laid ME track on bare baseplates. About a third of my track wasn't glued completely (I put the MEK on too thin - it needs a full drop per joint). I had two spots that wouldn't stay attached for more than a half hour, so we were literally going around every 5 minutes pushing them back down. Otherwise they'd derail the train. We couldn't run the Maersk or Emerald Night with the snow plows because they'd catch the ends of the rail Same with the Maersk's cargo car which rides about a half plate above the rail.

With even the slightest bump the plow buffer will squeak on 9v rail, that was a design fault in my opinion

[pirzyk]

You also cannot attach a ME Models track directly to a Flex track piece (even if you are using it as a quarter segment). zephyr1934 ran into that at the NMRA show.

[Railfan9]

You also cannot attach a ME Models track directly to a Flex track piece (even if you are using it as a quarter segment). zephyr1934 ran into that at the NMRA show.

Interesting, and is that due to the size of the railhead on the ME Models track?

[Paperballpark]

Interesting, I'd not tried that with the flexi track. I did notice that if you have a tile on the Lego rail sleeper, it's almost impossible to attach the ME Models track. You have to remove the tile, clip the track together, then put the tile back on.

In terms of glue, I used MEK on a lot of mine while at Bricktastic, and will be getting some to do the rest of it at home. As has been said, MEK is strong stuff, and needs to be used in a well-ventilated area. It's also apparently very flammable, so store it in your garden shed or somewhere like that.