jhaelego Posted July 6, 2016 This is a beautiful build! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mortesv Posted July 6, 2016 Yes, what I have experienced with managing the building instructions to generate coherently, unconnected pieces or assemblies will always be the first step of the guide, even if they are grouped too. They probably could be easily connected with open, round plates with a bar through them. *EDIT* I just realized that there are studs inside the middle ring element, which is physically impossible. It could otherwise be done with these elements: Yes, the studs don't work - I forgot about those - I have just used friction-less pins :) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kristof Posted July 6, 2016 Very nice! With your Nebulon-B it looks spectacular. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
corellian_egr Posted July 6, 2016 Congratulations, Mortesv! Parenthood is magical and is a happy place to be in. Just a quick note about the GR-75. I've downloaded the lxf file and am trying to figure out how to generate something like a bill of materials from it. Not knowing much about lxf files, I am as yet unsuccessful. I am wondering, though. Can this be done? Kind Regards Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mortesv Posted July 6, 2016 Congratulations, Mortesv! Parenthood is magical and is a happy place to be in. Just a quick note about the GR-75. I've downloaded the lxf file and am trying to figure out how to generate something like a bill of materials from it. Not knowing much about lxf files, I am as yet unsuccessful. I am wondering, though. Can this be done? Kind Regards Thank you! You can go to bricklink.com and upload the lfx file. It will generate a wanted list for you which you can order directly :) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
corellian_egr Posted July 6, 2016 Many thanks, Mortesv! Just uploaded the lxf file for GR-75 to Bricklink. Always Kind Regards Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ecmo47 Posted July 7, 2016 One part change I'd recommend is 3x #42446 (Minifig, Neck Bracket with Back Stud). Current color is white which is expensive at $3.00 to $5.00 apiece. Change the color to Light Blue Gray. On LDD, they are inserted on steps 202 and 294 and look to be totally concealed so a color change should not make a difference. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mortesv Posted July 7, 2016 Yeah, I have them in lbg as well. Besides, if you use a White corner tile instead of one of the 4 1x2 tiled you will conceal the hole. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DFOL Posted July 7, 2016 Outstanding work again Mortesv, the shaping and detailing is spot on! A perfect companion to the Nebulon-B, but equally impressive on its own! And of course a big congratulations with the new addition to the family! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mortesv Posted July 8, 2016 Outstanding work again Mortesv, the shaping and detailing is spot on! A perfect companion to the Nebulon-B, but equally impressive on its own! And of course a big congratulations with the new addition to the family! Thank you :) Yeah it looks very fine next to the Neb - if only I had the time to build two :) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ephseb Posted July 8, 2016 What a beauty. Outstanding work mate, congrats. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mortesv Posted July 12, 2016 Thanks for the nice comments guys! If you are building this, please let me know if you have any questions. I have made some minor tweaks - closed a few gaps (thanks to Bob for pointing those out). There is also two "holes" in the model on the ldd. On each side of the spine there is a 1x2 slider that is place "inside" the model. It is there because LDD would not allow me to place it next to the other slides - there is room for them there in real life :) Also the 1x2 tile next to model is meant to be placed in the hole on the spine - again LDD would not let me place it there :) Happy building :) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Midlife-crisis Posted July 13, 2016 Thanks a lot for sharing this is great, will add this to my hoth MOC :) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ecmo47 Posted July 14, 2016 (edited) Got started this evening and skipped to the part that builds the frame and bottom greebling. Tip #1. Delete the stand off the LDD file and save it under a second file. This will greatly assist you when rotating and zeroing in on details. Edited July 14, 2016 by ecmo47 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mortesv Posted July 14, 2016 Got started this evening and skipped to the part where that builds the frame and bottom greebling. Tip #1. Delete the stand off the LDD file and save it under a second file. This will greatly assist you when rotating and zeroing in on details. I flipped the entire ldd model on its back and made the bottom hull invisible - easy access :) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gouniaf Posted July 14, 2016 I usually don't like this scale but your ship made me change my opinion. It's wonderful to see how accurate it is. The colors you have chosen are quite good. Nice, work ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ecmo47 Posted July 16, 2016 (edited) It's a beauty! Here's some builders notes that you may find useful. 1. It's a solid model ONCE it's built. Until then, it will try your patience. The biggest issue is that you will knock off some of the finely place greebeling while trying to attach other parts and then you cannot figure out where it came from! 2. I made a third LDD file that just has the bottom greeble and the plates that they attach to. As usual, LDD "floats" a bunch of those parts and it's a real pain to try to figure out where they go. Also, greeble placement is scatter through out the entire instructions so you have to keep coming back to it. Build the ship, then add the detail 3. I didn't have all of the proper colors listed on the parts list but in the end, it didn't matter. LBG. DBG, dark orange, dark blue, dark red, dark green and olive all look just fine on hull and as containers. 4. I beefed up several areas that were weak. One area that I modified quite a bit was the "sandwich" where the top and bottom hulls come together and the studs are reversed. A. I could not get my top part of the hull to fit properly between the two side hull pieces until I replaced the 4x10 plate with a 4x8 and removed the two 1x2 slope pieces. This mod allowed the side hull pieces to hinge down enough so that the top hull could fit in between properly. B. While replacing the 4x10 plate, I filled in the 2x8 gap. In the end that 8x18 area was covered by a 8x8, 8x6 and an 8x4 plate. C. I added a lot more 1x2 bricks with studs on both sides to the "sandwich" area. I made sure there was a brick at each plate joint and I place several in the middle to prevent the plates from bowing while your trying to press on other parts. This bowing problem caused me a lot of grief until I tore the almost finished model apart and rebuilt it. 5. I added two 2x3 angles plates to front of the ship to give it a pointed nose like the real one. And now some pictures: DSC01568 by Scott Roys, on Flickr DSC01569 by Scott Roys, on Flickr DSC01579 by Scott Roys, on Flickr DSC01574 by Scott Roys, on Flickr I flipped the entire ldd model on its back and made the bottom hull invisible - easy access :) How did you accomplish this? I could not figure it out. I had to look thought the "grid" to view the bottom and it was distracting. Edited July 16, 2016 by ecmo47 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mortesv Posted July 16, 2016 Great build ecmo! Did you use ldd's instructions feature? It can be a true pain to work with. Instead I just take the model apart and build :) Regarding joining top and bottom, I actually removed some 1x2 bricks with studs since they made it much harder to put together. Since the top is resting on the bottom, 8-10 bricks should be adequate to keep it together. I see you have modded the front a bit and it looks nice :) I have also modded it a bit since I made the ldd ;) Flipping the entire model in ldd is the same as grabbing a single brick. Just select the whole thing, grab it and move it - then the flip options appears and you can flip it using the arrow keys. Quick question - where is that 2x8 gap you mention? Very nice touch with the mirror, it looks excellent! :) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TenorPenny Posted July 17, 2016 This is a superb job at quite a chaotic vessel design. Great work. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ecmo47 Posted July 18, 2016 Flipping the entire model in ldd is the same as grabbing a single brick. Just select the whole thing, grab it and move it - then the flip options appears and you can flip it using the arrow keys. Quick question - where is that 2x8 gap you mention? Very nice touch with the mirror, it looks excellent! :) It took waaaaay to long to figure out how to flip the model. I kept trying to use the hinge tool and that didn't work at all! Here some screen shots of beefing up the frame a little. GR-75 plate replacment by Scott Roys, on Flickr GR-75 1x2 placement by Scott Roys, on Flickr GR-75 Plate layout. by Scott Roys, on Flickr Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mortesv Posted July 18, 2016 Ah, that gap - I decided that it had little effect on the final model :) However, I see that you have also removed and replaced the 4 x 10 plate that hold the small 1 x 2 slopes. The slopes are meant to keep the angle of the top hull more in place. Without them, the top hull plates are easily moved a bit out of place. Anyway, your transport looks great! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ecmo47 Posted July 19, 2016 As explained above, the 4x10 plate w/slopes attached prevented my top hull piece from fitting correctly so I had to remove it and let the side hull pieces angle down a fraction more. Weird that it works on your build but not mine. More pieces arrived today to build a couple more! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mortesv Posted July 19, 2016 As explained above, the 4x10 plate w/slopes attached prevented my top hull piece from fitting correctly so I had to remove it and let the side hull pieces angle down a fraction more. Weird that it works on your build but not mine. More pieces arrived today to build a couple more! Hmm yeah, that is weird. My first one just snapped in place, the second was a bit more difficult but it finally cilcked after many tries :) Happy building! :) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
phaelon Posted July 20, 2016 I'm about to order the pieces for 3 of these to go with my Nebulon-B. Could those of you who have built the model provide a summary on the updates to the LDD parts list, and guidance on how to generate the necessary building instructions? I'm not comfortable enough in LDD to extricate the various layers to see the hidden bits. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
