Didumos69

[MOD] 42056 - Ultimately playable Porsche 911 GT3 RS

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Wew, sorry to hear that your excellent entry is not allowed :(.

Your work for these set 42056 improvements is clearly beneficial for this community judging from the high number of views in this and the mods/improvements thread.

I personally thank you for that.

And enjoy your holiday.

Thanks, appreciate it.

I have found great pleasure in modifying this set. I'm very happy with the result and it's great to know that my work turns out to be useful for others too. The fact that this is not accepted as a rebrick contest entry doesn't take anything away from that.

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I think the fact that this is a modification of the Porsche set is the reason that it was rejected. It is not a brand new MOC design. In that sense you cannot say that you designed most of the MOC.

That does not take away all the hard work you put into improving the set. I would even go so far as to say that your improvements have/will make a difference in how well the set sells. I've already heard some people were on the fence, but the improvements made on this forum is what made them purchase it.

It pains me to say that I have still not applied your modifications as described in your wonderful errata. I just have been so busy, and have not had enough time to sit down and do it. Hopefully my upcoming vacation from work will change that. And hopefully the weather will be a little more bearable around here :sceptic: . When I do apply your mods, I will be sure to report back with my results.

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I think the fact that this is a modification of the Porsche set is the reason that it was rejected. It is not a brand new MOC design. In that sense you cannot say that you designed most of the MOC.

That does not take away all the hard work you put into improving the set. I would even go so far as to say that your improvements have/will make a difference in how well the set sells. I've already heard some people were on the fence, but the improvements made on this forum is what made them purchase it.

It pains me to say that I have still not applied your modifications as described in your wonderful errata. I just have been so busy, and have not had enough time to sit down and do it. Hopefully my upcoming vacation from work will change that. And hopefully the weather will be a little more bearable around here :sceptic: . When I do apply your mods, I will be sure to report back with my results.

Thanks!

Here are the pictures I made for the rebrick contest:

Rebrick%20(11).jpgRebrick%20(2).jpgRebrick%20(3).jpgRebrick%20(4).jpgRebrick%20(5).jpgRebrick%20(6).jpgRebrick%20(7).jpgRebrick%20(8).jpgRebrick%20(9).jpgRebrick%20(10).jpg

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Amazing work still. Do you plan to make a complete guide on how to mod this set to make it ultimately playable ?

Furthermore, I think a nice addition should be the locking doors, as this mod seems pretty easy to implement and don't distrub other mods you've already made.

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Amazing work still. Do you plan to make a complete guide on how to mod this set to make it ultimately playable ?

Furthermore, I think a nice addition should be the locking doors, as this mod seems pretty easy to implement and don't distrub other mods you've already made.

Thanks! Not a complete guide, but I will summarize with pointers to the most important posts.

The lockable doors are indeed on my wishlist. But I won't have time the rest of the summer I'm affraid. I also have an idea for a sway bar for the front suspension. Plenty ideas...

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Thanks! Not a complete guide, but I will summarize with pointers to the most important posts.

The lockable doors are indeed on my wishlist. But I won't have time the rest of the summer I'm affraid. I also have an idea for a sway bar for the front suspension. Plenty ideas...

I do recall someone making lockable doors already.

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Somebody else has done a simple but quite effective locking door mechanism (see this

).

Initially I thought the door handle should be pushed downwards to open the door but after Googling further, I see that in Porsche 911 car, you pull door handle upwards to open the door, so this mechanism looks correct.

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Somebody else has done a simple but quite effective locking door mechanism (see this

).

Initially I thought the door handle should be pushed downwards to open the door but after Googling further, I see that in Porsche 911 car, you pull door handle upwards to open the door, so this mechanism looks correct.

I will probably copy that one, although I do not really like the extra flat plates almost touching the steering wheel. If I can improve on that I will.

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[...] I've already heard some people were on the fence, but the improvements made on this forum is what made them purchase it. [...]

You nailed it, mate. I was going to pass up the Porsche precisely because of its almost complete lack of playability, but Didumos69 has turned a mediocre set into gold.

(Why is everything Netherlands-related so awesome?)

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Amazing work still. Do you plan to make a complete guide on how to mod this set to make it ultimately playable ?

Furthermore, I think a nice addition should be the locking doors, as this mod seems pretty easy to implement and don't distrub other mods you've already made.

In case you missed it, I already made the LXF-file and parts list of the ultimate version available. I will add these links to the OP soon.

You nailed it, mate. I was going to pass up the Porsche precisely because of its almost complete lack of playability, but Didumos69 has turned a mediocre set into gold.

(Why is everything Netherlands-related so awesome?)

That's too much, but thanks! I think it's because we live in a very boring country (EDIT: Just like Danish people, so you would actually expect...).

Btw, the only Porsche-reminder I will take with me on vacation is this video :wink: (I hate it when things move to the previous page so soon...)

Edited by Didumos69

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I did got the LXF file, but not the part list (though bricksafe seems to be down right now). I hope to build this beauty as soon as I can got one...mine is due to arrive on august 8th :classic:

Thanks again for your amazing job.

Edited by charlesw

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Just got confirmation that my ultimately playable version will be on display during the Bouwen met LEGO® stenen event from august 9 until august 11 (10am until 5pm) in Boekelo, The Netherlands. I won't be there myself, but my brother will be. He is one of the organizers of the event.

Edited by Didumos69

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Minimal version - Building instructions (link)

For the minimal version I made building instructions in terms of errata. The errata will help you implement the necessary fixes while building the model from scratch. It provides a list of extra parts you need (only 30 small and commonly used parts) and a sequence of steps that serve as a replacement of the corresponding steps in the original building instructions. All can be found in this PDF. and on Rebrickable.

The errata include a 4th-to-1st gear block, but do not provide instructions for additional features like HoG steering or a removable body. I was a little bit in doubt whether to include all changes to the axle scheme or not. Blakbird - who has test-driven this set of modifications, thanks for that! - was already satisfied without applying all changes to avoid connectors from rubbing against liftarms. I decided to include them anhyway, beacuse I think it's simply a matter of good practice and since these errata are specifically useful when you build the model from scratch, it's an easy gain.

You mentioned that the errata includes the 4th-to-1st gear block. On which step do you apply this one?

I saw supertechnicmans fix for the infinite gear shifting issue (http://www.eurobrick...25#entry2577440), however you seem to do something different?

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You mentioned that the errata includes the 4th-to-1st gear block. On which step do you apply this one?

I saw supertechnicmans fix for the infinite gear shifting issue (http://www.eurobrick...25#entry2577440), however you seem to do something different?

The 4th-to-1st gear lock is located inside the H-frame on the left side. The 90 degree limiter is on the right side. It consists of a 2L (o+)-liftarm attached to the shifting axle and a 4x2L liftarm on top of the H-frame. This required less parts as the 4x2L liftarm also serves as extra support for the axle between diff and DNR-gearbox.

Edited by Didumos69

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The 4th-to-1st gear lock is located inside the H-frame on the left side. The 90 degree limiter is on the right side. It consists of a 2L (o+)-liftarm attached to the shifting axle and a 4x2L liftarm on top of the H-frame. This required less parts as the 4x2L liftarm also serves as extra support for the axle between diff and DNR-gearbox.

Ah, I see, nicely done. All these mods really make me want this set. Thanks for all the effort of putting the mods together, putting them in LDD and making instruction etc :)

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Finally made all the mods as in the ultimate lxf version you have provided. Everything fits seamlessly.

Only a few things I noticed:

1) LDD's building instructions with a model this big make building it VERY interesting, haha

2) The gearless clutch seemed to be rotating all the time for me. Maybe it was because my blue pins did not have enough friction, but every time I would roll the car, it would not transfer the torque past the clutch at all to the engine and gears (or vice versa).

Other than this, it is a fantastic model, and the improvements are fantastic.

Thank you!

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Finally made all the mods as in the ultimate lxf version you have provided. Everything fits seamlessly.

Only a few things I noticed:

1) LDD's building instructions with a model this big make building it VERY interesting, haha

2) The gearless clutch seemed to be rotating all the time for me. Maybe it was because my blue pins did not have enough friction, but every time I would roll the car, it would not transfer the torque past the clutch at all to the engine and gears (or vice versa).

Other than this, it is a fantastic model, and the improvements are fantastic.

Thank you!

Thanks for your feedback!

I would think your problem with the gearless clutch should not occur. You probably have too much friction in the gearbox and the engine. You have to make sure all individual axles have some play and rotate with almost zero friction and gears do not rub against liftarms. Especially the red clutch gears need to have some play.

It should sound like this:

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I'm currently building the model, including some of the fixes.

I took the .pdf with the instructions of the 'minimal version'.

Could it be that you used additional parts that are not in the parts list? I think I require additional parts of "11214" used in step 61a of the improved instructions.

I worked my way around it, so no it was issue for me :classic:

Edited by TheTMC

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If

I'm currently building the model, including some of the fixes.

I took the .pdf with the instructions of the 'minimal version'.

Could it be that you used additional parts that are not in the parts list? I think I require additional parts of "11214" used in step 61a of the improved instructions.

I worked my way around it, so no it was issue for me :classic:

If I recall correctly this part is actually being reused. It was originally used at the side of the dnr-gearbox but is not needed in the corrected version. If I'm not mistaken you need only one such piece for the errata, only in step 61a.

Edited by Didumos69

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Just a quick remindet that my ultimately playable version will be on display during the Bouwen met LEGO® stenen event from august 9 until august 11 (10am until 5pm) in Boekelo, The Netherlands. I won't be there myself, but my brother will be. He is one of the organizers of the event.

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I got the following question: Does the LXF-file for the 'ultimate version' include the errata or should the errata be applied separately? The answer is that the 'ultimate version' also includes the errata, but some fixes have been implemented differently. For instance the gear-sequence fix turns out differently, because I also switched the gears at the back of the diff with the gears in front of the diff.

If you want to build Box 1. and Box 2. using the LXF-file for the 'ultimate version' you should take into account the following pointers:

  • You need to make sure each individual axle that is part of the shift or drive train runs smoothly, with the least of friction.
  • Make sure gears don't rub against liftarms, especially the red clutch gears need some play.
  • When you replace the knob gears inside the PDK-unit with bevel gears, make sure the axles keep their original orientation. A knob gear mesh implies a 45 degree orientation difference.
  • Also check the changes to Box 2; for instance the way the vertically placed black panel in front of the rear suspension module has been secured to adequately lock up the 20t bevel gears used for the rear HoGs.
  • The LXF-file contains groups. In each group there is a subgroup representing the old structure and the new structure. Both new structures and old structures are embedded in a version of the chassis. By clicking on a group or subgroup in the group tab you select all parts in that group. Now when you invert the selection and then delete the selection you see a cutaway of the group, which allows you to inspect the group thoroughly. Use Ctrl-Z to undo the delete after inspection. This way you can inspect the differences group by group.

I also have a parts list available with the extra parts needed for this version.

Edited by Didumos69

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It's been a while, but after reading this post from Attika I got some inspiration to start improving the paddle shifter unit. I never really liked how it operates, even after turning around the change-over catches. It operates very rough and needs a lot of (silicon) power to return to its default position.

I started with a variation on Attika's stepper. I found out that the pushers that I use in this variation are very strong and effective: There's no risk of axles sliding out off connectors and the pushers return very smoothly:

So I decided to investigate whether I could incorporate the same pushers in the paddle shifter unit of the Porsche. And guess what, it works very well! Like Attika's stepper, the whole mechanism is a collaboration between pushers and a 90 degree limiter attached to the actual gear selector axle in the gearbox. I wanted to leave the limiter where it is (for it to be as effective as possible), so I built a test setup which mimics the situation in the original Porsche. That way I could test whether the pushers cooperate well with the limiter. And they do:

The paddle shifters are now a real joy to operate! And as you can see the silicon bands don't need much stress to pull the paddles back. I also made sure the output axle of the unit can rotate freely and is not hindered by the pushers. That is necessary to allow the HoG shifter to operate the gear shifting train from outside the paddle shifter unit. And finally I tilted the steering wheel. I know DayWalker did that too, but his solution gives too much angle in my opinion.

This is the essential part of the unit, you can recognize the pushers from the stepper video:

960x450.jpg

Next step will be to incorporate this in my ultimate version :wink:

LXF-file of the unit can be found here.

Edited by Didumos69

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My Porsche and other models have been banned from the living room, so I had to make a storage place for them. I still had two unused kitchen cabinets left (60cm wide) and the Porsche fits just perfectly. It shouldn't have been one stud longer:

800x450.jpg800x450.jpg

And to keep the shelfs in place I found a very practical use of the axle-pin connector :wink: :wink: :wink:.

800x450.jpg

Edited by Didumos69

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I have used Technic pins for the exact same thing for years :laugh: :laugh:

They never broke and they held the planks with kilos and kilos of stuff just fine.

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I wish I found this site before I completely assembled my Porsche. It looks like I will be taking it apart for these modifications.

Does anyone know how much the modification parts will cost to purchase? What is the best place to purchase all the parts required for the modifications?

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