Cjd223

Building Mortesv's Nebulon-B Thread

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6 hours ago, Midlife-crisis said:

Sorry @rockpig no idea.

 

Scheyjosh hope this helps:

 

the lbg technic plate should connect with the slopes, you have to move the hinges.

inn1qx2t3kte.jpg

Will the moved hinges affect anything later on @Midlife-crisis? It seems as though these 1x9 lifters on the back stand are useless now. I need to get 2 more 1x11 liftarms to make this more secure, right?

Thank you as well @rockpig

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Is this how it should be? is it too high/low? Since I'm still early on in the building process I'm worried about these things down the road. If I'm correct then hopefully this will give a guide to other people utilizing this stand! Also, will the brushed get in the way of any other building process? Plus will those hinges being in 100% the wrong locations hinder anything? Thanks!

AODR9N0.jpg

ZitPhye.jpgd5Z4aOY.jpgWBN1AHI.jpg

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Posted (edited)

I don't know if the bottom pins will be in the way at a later stage so I used 2L pins for the bottom connections. The upper connection looks great!

Upon closer inspection of your photos, you're a bit high on the stands. The bottom Technic plate with holes should be resting on the 2 slopes below. Remove the tile from the top of the slopes.

Make sure that the pin connections for all the stand parts are per the LDD file.

Edited by rockpig

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BTW - The top 4 liftarms inserted into the 4 x 6 Technic Brick with open center should be the ones you used to build the stand or at least the same length as those.

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52 minutes ago, rockpig said:

I don't know if the bottom pins will be in the way at a later stage so I used 2L pins for the bottom connections. The upper connection looks great!

Upon closer inspection of your photos, your a bit high on the stands. The bottom Technic plate with holes should be resting on the 2 slopes below. Remove the tile from the top of the slopes.

Make sure that the connections for all the stand parts are per the LDD file.

Ok cool, thanks! Do you have both stands connected already and is it level? That was my other concern

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Posted (edited)

Yes and yes. The 2 halves connected in about 30 seconds. I left assembly from pages 237 - 250 unattached. I removed the 2 x 16 plate from page 236, pinned the bottom technic bricks together, replaced the 2 x 16 plate, then attached the page 237 - 250 technic assembly to the pins and pressed it down. Piece of cake! Stands held everything perfectly and nothing fell off. You can pick it up from both bases and move it around with ease to work on it. The real challenge comes after. My advice is to look ahead in the instructions and determine how many sub assemblies you can do off of the model. Quite a few things are held on by one or two studs. A real challenge, but very satisfying to figure it out and get it done.

Enjoy!

rockpig

Edited by rockpig

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I should add, churcholo designed an outstanding stand (no pun intended). Being attached to the internal structure makes it very secure and stable. I'm up to around page 450 (not counting the steps I jumped ahead that were required to get the front stand on). I have picked it up and turned it around at least a dozen times without anything falling off. So far, the only times parts have fallen off is due to my clumsiness.

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Posted (edited)

Hello!

Just started building, I am very excited! 

Quick question on the following:

- I think I have followed the step diligently, but it seems to stress the parts, I must miss something. 

https://ibb.co/j8v4Zbr

https://ibb.co/NxKHh6W

Thank you in advance for your input.

Valancey

Edited by Valancey
added additional link

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Posted (edited)
On 6/29/2019 at 4:14 PM, Valancey said:

hHello!

Just started building, I am very excited! 

Quick question on the following:

- I think I have followed the step diligently, but it seems to stress the parts, I must miss something. 

https://ibb.co/j8v4Zbr

https://ibb.co/NxKHh6W

Thank you in advance for your input.

Valancey

You'll find your answer on page 6 of this thread.

Edited by rockpig

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I have three  issues.  I am building the churcholo stand and those black pins part number 4274 are hard to find and expensive.  Can I use the longer dark grey ones or even the blue ones?  How visible are they.  Second can anyone post pictures on how the second stand attaches?   Third is the part number for Connector Peg (need 4) vs Connector Peg w. Friction (need 52?)

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Posted (edited)
12 hours ago, Startoysd said:

I have three  issues.  I am building the churcholo stand and those black pins part number 4274 are hard to find and expensive.  Can I use the longer dark grey ones or even the blue ones?  How visible are they.  Second can anyone post pictures on how the second stand attaches?   Third is the part number for Connector Peg (need 4) vs Connector Peg w. Friction (need 52?)

I just finished building this MOC yesterday.

Part 4274 is used to hold the UCS plaque. Blue would be ok as they are not visible. The stand should work correctly with friction ridges or without. I prefer with friction.

Here are my notes on installing the stand. I hope they are clear enough to follow.

Front stand

Attach front stands (1 x 15 liftarms) as per pages 528 – 529 and 535 – 536. (Note: the (4) 1 x 15 Black Liftarms from stand replace the (4) DBG 1 x 9 liftarms from these pages. 9 holes are for model, 6 holes belong to the stand.) Be mindful of pin placements in these steps.

Back stand.

Remove middle (4) hinge plates attached from page 6.

Remove liftarm assemblies from pages 13 – 15 including pins.

Remove the 4 top liftarms from stand and replace the (2) 1 x 11 liftarms installed on pages 16 with the 4 black liftarms from stand. Use 3L pins with Bushstop to attach to Technic, Brick 4 x 6 Open Center. Use 2L pins to attach to Vertical liftarms from page 11 & 12.

Hope this helps. This build is as satisfying as it is occasionally frustrating.

Good Luck,

Rockpig

Edited by rockpig

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@Cjd223, did you end up assembling your Nebulon-B with parts purchased in used condition? After spending a pretty penny on most of the parts for @onecase's ISD Monarch, I like the idea of purchasing used parts for non-Imperial ships as well as using LG and LBG interchangeably (and maybe other color substitutions). Probably I'll end up with gross used pieces that I have to purchase again, and maybe color substitutions that just don't work once assembled. But I like the idea of the Rebel ships looking a little worn out and patched together.

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I purchased everything I could as new. I need the parts again. I don't have any display room, so this will be photographed, left on the table for a few weeks and then disassembled. I will be using about 3500+ pieces from this MOC to build MOCs 15881, 23556, 8143 and 23104. Doing the same thing, building, photographing, leaving it on the table for a while, disassemble and reusing the parts. The upside - I get to build them all and have plenty of parts for the next new big Star Wars MOC. The downside - I don't get to look at all of them together.

Another upside. Instead of having to buy 48,000 + pieces to build all 5 MOCS. I can make them all by purchasing about 29,000+ parts. That cuts the cost around 40%.

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30 minutes ago, rockpig said:

I purchased everything I could as new. I need the parts again. I don't have any display room, so this will be photographed, left on the table for a few weeks and then disassembled. I will be using about 3500+ pieces from this MOC to build MOCs 15881, 23556, 8143 and 23104. Doing the same thing, building, photographing, leaving it on the table for a while, disassemble and reusing the parts. The upside - I get to build them all and have plenty of parts for the next new big Star Wars MOC. The downside - I don't get to look at all of them together.

Another upside. Instead of having to buy 48,000 + pieces to build all 5 MOCS. I can make them all by purchasing about 29,000+ parts. That cuts the cost around 40%.

Yes, I will be reusing parts to build other big and beautiful MOCs as well. Besides the economy of cost and space, I just love disassembling Lego to make something new.

But! There are three big models that would be amazing to have side by side: the UCS Falcon, Mortesv's Nebulon-B, and Onecase's ISD Monarch. Each is a very different scale, with the Nebulon-B having a tiny MF, and the ISD Monarch having a tiny Nebulon-B (included in Onecase's IDS instructions). The step-up in scale could show how terrifyingly huge an ISD is :D

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Yes that would be a cool thing to see. You could do the same with Lego UCS sets. Death Star 10143 has a SSD, SSD 10221 has a Star Destroyer, Star Destroyer 10030 has a Blockade Runner and then Rebel Blockade Runner 10019. That would also be a nice display.

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On 7/21/2019 at 6:47 PM, rockpig said:

Amazing!. The Dream room exists!

Thanks mate!
As you can see it's still a bit work in progress (missing tiles on the bases), but I think it looks really cool anyway!
Mortesv did an awesome job with the Nebulon and the other ships!

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Hello all,

Does anyone happen to have a parts list that incorporates the various corrections identified in this thread?

I'm going through all 26 pages now and will add @churcholo's stand, but if someone has already made the substitutions it would be really helpful :)

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bricksmarlin, Can I just say...holy cow, amazing amazing amazing. I would not have thought that it was possible create something so big and detailed unless I had seen the pictures above. The Nebulon-B Frigate is an engineering masterpiece in LEGO.

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Posted (edited)
13 minutes ago, Little Brix said:

bricksmarlin, Can I just say...holy cow, amazing amazing amazing. I would not have thought that it was possible create something so big and detailed unless I had seen the pictures above. The Nebulon-B Frigate is an engineering masterpiece in LEGO.

Thanks!
But all the credit belongs to @mortesv!

https://www.imperiumdersteine.de/index.php?media/albums/users/bricksmarlin.8754/

Edited by bricksmarlin

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Ahhh that makes so much sense (given the title). Regardless, this is still one of the best things I have seen in LEGO Star Wars. The pictures on the link are amazing. 

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On ‎7‎/‎27‎/‎2019 at 9:44 AM, helpComputer said:

Hello all,

Does anyone happen to have a parts list that incorporates the various corrections identified in this thread?

I'm going through all 26 pages now and will add @churcholo's stand, but if someone has already made the substitutions it would be really helpful :)

Hi,

I just finished this last weekend and I can provide you a parts list with 99% of the changes and @churcholo's stand. It will take me a little time to do so. I can post a link for you in a few days. BTW - @churcholo's stand is the way to go. I can't imagine how anyone had the ability and patience to build this without it. I tip my hat to them.

rockpig

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That would be amazing @rockpig! It's happened several times that I'll be drooling over some thread of an amazing Star Wars MOC here or on rebrickable, and I'll run into a super helpful post of yours or one of your spreadsheets. Hopefully I can give back down the road.

Regarding cost substitutions, I'm going to see if the LBG wheel 56145 is a good substitute for the half barrel 4424. But the taper of 4424 really is perfect.

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