Building Mortesv's Nebulon-B Thread

[Midlife-crisis]

Some reinforcements joined the battle scene

The newest ones are GR-75 and my own creation a IGV-55 Gozanti class surveillance light cruiser (Star Wars Rebels)

Will pause this project for the meantime, as i have plenty of work outside. Looking forward to your new creation @mortesv!

 

 

Yes, i also find my LAN cable is looking disturbing below the Star Destroyer.

 

Edited May 16, 2018 by Midlife-crisis

[Legodad10171966]

I have put. Together to of these incredible. Builds, one for myself and one to sell.

im asking $1200 for the complete bricklist.

anyone interested?

shane1066@aol.com

[chewy_fox]

Hi all,

First of all, sorry for hijacking this thread and secondly, I’m new here but not new to LEGO.

Right now I’m building this beauty and I need some help. 

For those that have built it, I’m pretty sure it’s impossible to locate and buy a 64951 - Container, Barrel Half Large with Axle Hole, mainly because LBG does not exist. The replacement being a 4424 - without the axle-hole. 

Looking at the rarity of the item, those barrels are ridiculously priced. 

Additionally, 30603 - Brick, Modified 2 x 2 No Studs, Sloped with 3 Side Pistons Raised does not exist in LBG. 

Therefore I seek the advice on the following: 

What are the recommended alternative bricks to use for the above-mentioned? 

I do apologise if this had been discussed before but had issues using this forum board search results came back with negative results. 

@mortesv appreciate if you could weigh in on this?

Much thanks,

chewy. 

[Lahh001]

52 minutes ago, chewy_fox said:

Hi all,

First of all, sorry for hijacking this thread and secondly, I’m new here but not new to LEGO.

Right now I’m building this beauty and I need some help. 

For those that have built it, I’m pretty sure it’s impossible to locate and buy a 64951 - Container, Barrel Half Large with Axle Hole, mainly because LBG does not exist. The replacement being a 4424 - without the axle-hole. 

Looking at the rarity of the item, those barrels are ridiculously priced. 

Additionally, 30603 - Brick, Modified 2 x 2 No Studs, Sloped with 3 Side Pistons Raised does not exist in LBG. 

Therefore I seek the advice on the following: 

What are the recommended alternative bricks to use for the above-mentioned? 

I do apologise if this had been discussed before but had issues using this forum board search results came back with negative results. 

@mortesv appreciate if you could weigh in on this?

Much thanks,

chewy. 

It's been 2 years since i built this beast, so if i recall, the barrel solution is to either paint it LBG or there is a LBG barrel but no axel hole and you simply drill.  In the end, I drilled a hole in the LBG version.  Although i was talking to caevgod and he mentioned that they do exist, albeit in very small quantities.  For the 30603, there is an alternative but i can't recall  Pic below shows that there is an alternative.  Can't recall, but if you search through this thread, you'll find your answer

Edited July 21, 2018 by Lahh001

[Azrielsc]

I drilled mine: 

As for 30603, I went with 30602 instead (cheap & common!): 

[chewy_fox]

48 minutes ago, Lahh001 said:

It's been 2 years since i built this beast, so if i recall, the barrel solution is to either paint it LBG or there is a LBG barrel but no axel hole and you simply drill.  In the end, I drilled a hole in the LBG version.  Although i was talking to caevgod and he mentioned that they do exist, albeit in very small quantities.  For the 30603, there is an alternative but i can't recall  Pic below shows that there is an alternative.  Can't recall, but if you search through this thread, you'll find your answer

Think that piece is #44675 thanks! 

21 minutes ago, Azrielsc said:

I drilled mine: 

As for 30603, I went with 30602 instead (cheap & common!): 

Brilliant on the #4424 with holes and the axle piece to stick the bar in ??

[ecmo47]

The barrel issue was the very first discussion we had all the way back on page one! I drilled my pair of LBG #4424's. One Neb builder used part #6942 (Dish 5 x 5 Scala) but the are not cheaper then the 1/2 barrels.

 

Edited July 23, 2018 by ecmo47

[rockpig]

Or you could try 44675 instead of 30603

[chewy_fox]

35 minutes ago, ecmo47 said:

The barrel issue was the very first discussion we had all the back on page one! I drilled my pair of LBG #4424's. One Neb builder used part #6942 (Dish 5 x 5 Scala) but the are not cheaper then the 1/2 barrels.

 

Thanks. Those barrels are way more expensive than the #6942 parts. Wonder how would it stick if #6942 were to be used though. 

5 minutes ago, rockpig said:

Or you could try 44675 instead of 30603

Thanks. Yup chose 44675 over 30603 because of its design as well

[mortesv]

All good solutions here, coloring the sand blue barrel is perhaps the most clean, but midifying one mild to become another existing mold i acceptable as well IMO :)

[phaelon]

You guys may not believe this, but after I ordered all the parts in 2016, I never got to the build. Then we moved, and now its all in a box waiting to be born.

I know that @ecmo47 made numerous structural mods to this original build, @mortesv modified the nose and some of the "sword", and @Cjd223 indicated he was going to update the parts list. But were the instructions and LDD file updated as well? My copies are from June 2016, so I'm wondering if all the enhancements have been included in an updated set of plans.

Also, I am missing #4854 LBG somehow. Any suggestions for an alternate color?

[base_1]

Hee Guys,

I went through 23 pages of info on this great MOC but I still have a question!

Maybe one of you can help me out?

Can I swap 4095 (6.6L with stop - umbrella stand) LBG with 63965 (6L with stop) LBG? The first one is rather expensive...

And what about the Bar 4L in DBG? Is it needed in that colour? I need 6 of them and somehow they are very expensive.

Thanks in advance!

[lvassa]

Yes, you can swap out the 4095 with 63965.  There are a couple of places where the missing 0.6 means you can't entirely bridge from one clip to another, but it makes no difference to the build / structure and only the smallest of impacts on the aesthetic - the whole build is so big and complex / greebled, you'd be hard put spotting it,   Same goes for DBG  4L bars - subbing out a couple with LBG isn't going to change the final outcome

Good luck!

[base_1]

Thank you @lvassa!

Maybe you could help me out with another question: part 6191 - Brick, Modified 1 x 4 x 1 1/3 No Studs, Curved top in DBG is very hard to get.

Do you have an alternative part or colour?

Thanks in advance!

[lvassa]

For the 6191, you could use LBG without much impact (refer instructions step 251)

[base_1]

Thank you @lvassa

[Legodad10171966]

I have all the parts to build the medical frigate listed for $1000.00 on ebay as of 11/24/2018. email me with any questions at shane1066@aol.com

[Darthmarty]

So, I was going through the LDD files for the Nebulon-B, and I noticed there seems to be a small chunk of the rear exterior that is in the instructions, but missing from the file. This is page 145-150 of the instruction manual, and it's a section underneath the front of the rear part of the ship.

Maybe this has already been discussed elsewhere in this thread, but not that I can remember (and I've read through all 23 pages at least a half dozen times). For some reason the forum isn't letting me upload a screen shot I took, but like I said this is page 145-150 of the instruction manual, and step 105. It was easy enough to add back in.

 

I've finally started collecting the pieces to make this; I'll get it built someday...

[Brickandkall]

On 4/23/2017 at 12:05 AM, churcholo said:

Hi @rockpig,

I uploaded the DLL file to my personal server, it's a pleasure to share it with the community, you can download it here:

http://simoneweb.altervista.org/lego/Nebulon-b_pedestals_v1.2.lxf

 

Hi @churcholo, not sure if you're still monitoring this discussion but would be keen to get a copy of your LDD file for your modified pedestal. Tried the link in your post but it’s not active.

I'm looking at retaining mortesv's rear stand as is but want to eliminate the front and middle one by using your design. Not discounting the comments of others like ecmo who noted sag problems with the neck over time, I have my own solution to deal with this.

I intend to use technic brick elements to build a small black bracket. One end will be affixed to the neck of the Neb-B with technic pins, the other end will be screwed to the timber backdrop behind the Neb-B, which will also be black and should conceal it.

Hoping this will be enough to support the neck from sag as well as providing support against the model moving laterally. Thoughts???

As I’m new on here, can’t PM yet, hence why I’m posting here. If any one is in contact with churcholo would be greatful if you could highlight my query.

 

[m4st3rt3ch]

Question:

Technic liftarms (and some other parts) made from aluminum are available on bricklink. Would these pieces be helpful (if available in correct size) and if yes, what do you think about using them, especially in a model like the Nebulon?

Edited December 9, 2018 by m4st3rt3ch

[Brickandkall]

On 12/9/2018 at 6:05 AM, Darthmarty said:

So, I was going through the LDD files for the Nebulon-B, and I noticed there seems to be a small chunk of the rear exterior that is in the instructions, but missing from the file. This is page 145-150 of the instruction manual, and it's a section underneath the front of the rear part of the ship.

Maybe this has already been discussed elsewhere in this thread, but not that I can remember (and I've read through all 23 pages at least a half dozen times). For some reason the forum isn't letting me upload a screen shot I took, but like I said this is page 145-150 of the instruction manual, and step 105. It was easy enough to add back in.

 

I've finally started collecting the pieces to make this; I'll get it built someday...

Hi Darthmarty, I never used the LDD files, and from what I read on this thread, few people did, only now and then when they were uncertain of what was reflected in the PDF plans and needed clarification. The LDD is very difficult to follow, not to mention, given its size, it can be difficult to open and use for some. I got by solely using the PDF plans with the exception of the hosing installation, which Cjd223 rightly points out in the package information you would have gotten from him. There's a text file that recommends using the LDD file for the large hose placements on the nose.

There are a few other moments where the plans aren't clear, but I managed to figure things out. Biggest problem I ran into was the installation of two lift arms in the framework for the main hull. Can't remember if the plans say they should be 1x15 liftarms of 1x13 liftarms but they're meant to be one size down from that. Can't remember what page that was on, 500 rings a bell for some reason. It's been covered by others in this thread, I know its a bit of a read but I would take the time to go back and read the whole thread if you haven't already, would have saved me some pain if I had.

11 hours ago, m4st3rt3ch said:

Question:

Technic liftarms (and some other parts) made from aluminum are available on bricklink. Would these pieces be helpful (if available in correct size) and if yes, what do you think about using them, especially in a model like the Nebulon?

Hi m4st3rt3ch, as long as they're genuine lego parts can't see any harm in using them. If they're genuine they should be 100% compatible, you just need to be sure the colour won't detract from your final model. Most of the liftarms are concealed by paneling so you don't see them, but bear in mind, there are cracks here and there between the paneling. Substituting darker/blander colours for those recommended in the plans and parts list isn't going to affect the appearance of your final build, but you might want to be careful about using brighter colours. For example, if you used a bright red liftarm, the red might stand out through the cracks between paneling, by the time you know that, its a long road back to change it. If you think you'd be ok with a little silver bleeding through the cracks, go for it.

[m4st3rt3ch]

8 minutes ago, Brickandkall said:

Hi m4st3rt3ch, as long as they're genuine lego parts can't see any harm in using them. If they're genuine they should be 100% compatible, you just need to be sure the colour won't detract from your final model. Most of the liftarms are concealed by paneling so you don't see them, but bear in mind, there are cracks here and there between the paneling. Substituting darker/blander colours for those recommended in the plans and parts list isn't going to affect the appearance of your final build, but you might want to be careful about using brighter colours. For example, if you used a bright red liftarm, the red might stand out through the cracks between paneling, by the time you know that, its a long road back to change it. If you think you'd be ok with a little silver bleeding through the cracks, go for it.

They're custom made. 1:1 copies milled out of aluminium. On the one hand, LEGO never made these bricks from aluminium. On the other hand, since these bricks are copies, they don't allow illegal building techniques, they're a little heavier, but bend much less. Huge models often need steel frames, because bricks alone wouldn't bear the weight. The Nebulon-B isn't quite the largest model, but it's design makes it very fragile. Why not use aluminium (only 1:1 copies, no illegal parts like screws) beams/liftarms for the backbone of such a MOC? Forget about part prices, it's more of an ethical question.

[Brickandkall]

53 minutes ago, m4st3rt3ch said:

They're custom made. 1:1 copies milled out of aluminium. On the one hand, LEGO never made these bricks from aluminium. On the other hand, since these bricks are copies, they don't allow illegal building techniques, they're a little heavier, but bend much less. Huge models often need steel frames, because bricks alone wouldn't bear the weight. The Nebulon-B isn't quite the largest model, but it's design makes it very fragile. Why not use aluminium (only 1:1 copies, no illegal parts like screws) beams/liftarms for the backbone of such a MOC? Forget about part prices, it's more of an ethical question.

If improvement of the structural integrity is the primary motivator, I wouldn't bother. The only place I've found movement in the frame is in the neck shaft that connects the front hull to the rear engine compartment. The rest of the build is quite sturdy, Mortevs did a pretty good job of this IMO. Given that these aluminium parts aren't genuine, quality control is in question. I read a review about the Lepin reproduction of Lego and the review said that while the Lepin product was good and improving, the quality control standard they applied was nowhere near as accurate as what Lego applies. Lego has some extrordinary margin of error they apply to ensure their parts fit properly, and thus securely.

While these aluminium parts might look the same and seem to fit right, if they're not built to the same margin of errror,  their use might be a false economy. Sure, they'll be more rigid then the plastic alternative, however, if the connections aren't as firm as genuine lego parts, it will compromise the build. They might seem to fit firmly at first, but over time, particularly under the weight of the build, the joints could start to slip. Not saying this will happen, just saying to proceed with caution.

If I were to put attention into anything to improve the strength of the build, it would be to improve the strength of the decorative elements like the panels, greebling and stands. A lot of these are held together quite flimsily, sometimes by a single stud. Another person posted that its worth having plenty of extra small plates on hand, 1x2's, 1x3's, 2x2's, 2x3's and so on. I would concur with this, I'd also recommend some extra technic studs here and there.

As to the ethical question, each to their own. I'm a purist, so, I prefer to stick with genuine lego parts only. Others are happy to substitute in non-lego parts from other brands or custom parts as you've suggested. In this case, I don't think they're necessary.

[base_1]

Hey guys,

I have a question for someone who had already build this MOC.
I've finished the top of the front part of the ship. I mean the rounded top that arches from (what I think is) the bridge all the way to the front (this part of the build starts at page 409).

Maybe I did something wrong but it seems like the whole thing is only fixed with one stud at the 'bridge-side' and it only rests on the smooth side of two bricks on the order side.
Can someone confirm this (or not)?

I hope this makes any sense...

Thanks in advance. 

Greetings!

[Azrielsc]

@base_1 Do you mean this area?

I added a couple of 2x2 or 2x4 bricks to stabilise the area before it starts sloping down to the edge of the front of the ship.