Building Mortesv's Nebulon-B Thread

[Lobot]

11 minutes ago, mortesv said:

Just checked - I have like seven different version - I keep tweaking and tweaking, mine is around 880, but that should make little difference :)

I spent a couple of hours last night searching for potential suppliers on Bricklink.  Most of the parts seem readily available but I'm already feeling guilty about the types of orders I'll need (e.g. high lot numbers & relatively low value) so I'm tempted to order enough parts for a couple of them; it might be a little less awkward.....   And, before I forget, @mortesv - are there any alternatives for the 4 x 6192 (2x4 curved top) - they seem to be quite scarce new in decent volumes?

[mortesv]

1 hour ago, Lobot said:

I spent a couple of hours last night searching for potential suppliers on Bricklink.  Most of the parts seem readily available but I'm already feeling guilty about the types of orders I'll need (e.g. high lot numbers & relatively low value) so I'm tempted to order enough parts for a couple of them; it might be a little less awkward.....   And, before I forget, @mortesv - are there any alternatives for the 4 x 6192 (2x4 curved top) - they seem to be quite scarce new in decent volumes?

Yeah the 6192 is very rare these day - partly my fault. You can also get them used or in lbg - a bit of colour variation doesn't hurt :)

If you build more than one, remember to throw in some variations to set them apart :)

 

 

[ecmo47]

I made three GR-75's, two in White and one in LBG. After the first one, I mixed and match colors to my liking so each one is unique. For the spine, LBG, DBG, Reddish Brown, and Black will look fine. (Maybe not black!)

DSC01615 by Scott Roys, on Flickr

 

Edited April 13, 2017 by ecmo47

[churcholo]

Hi guys,
I'm new here, I'm not an experienced AFOL, I just built the Cavegod AT-AT before this, so please have merci if I say something stupid or banal.
I've bought the instructions and I'm now planning to start to order the bricks to build this beautiful masterpiece.

I've read all the threads and I already planned to make some useful mods suggested by Ecmo and other users.

First of all let me tell you that in Europe the transparent cylinders (85941) have become so rare and expensive that it's practically impossible to buy 48 of them and follow this way to build the supports for the ship. Thank you guys for having dried up the market! :-P

Starting from this issue and conscious that the ship is not so sturdy as I wish (I've enough problems with the AT-AT!) I'm beginning to design some solutions to improve stability and to avoid the cylinders.

I'm not an engineer but it seems to me that, if well attached to the main structure, all the weight can be discharged in only 2 points instead of 4. Inspired by the SSD 10221 pedestals I designed these supports that are strongly attached to the main backbones and should prevent the ship to fall to the side even if it's (slightly) pulled.

For the front one I think there's no need to make any changes but for the back one I had to remove the hinge plates to let the liftarms pass through, so I must find another way to attach the lower small side panels. Perhaps I can attach them to the bigger panels from the top? I'll figure out.

I think the transparent cylinders were a good idea, but those who will come next will have to find other solutions. Here's mine and I think I like it, it reminds me of the official UCS models, it's elegant and not too invasive. Most of all, it should make the ship A LOT sturdier.

Let me know what you think and if you have some suggestions! :-)

 

 

 

 

 

[ecmo47]

I made a foot for the bottom of the stalactite which is described back on page 7 of this thread that works very well. It does eliminate the need for the front and middle supports. From that experience, I will tell you that you will need a wider base on the port (left) and starboard (right) feet.  On the back, I think that the support points to the ship are good but I don't think that the stand itself will be robust enough to support the top-heaviness of the back end. I think that the middle joint where the 1x5 lift arms are at will have too much flex and will cause problems. I'd try replacing those with  some longer lift-arms to increase the number of attachment points. Like I did, maybe try to work in some of the trans-clear 1x15 lift arms to give you the illusion of separation between ship and stand.

[mortesv]

Great to see another stand design :)

Have you considered transparent liftarms or will it look too messy with black/blue pins in them?

[ecmo47]

I took another look at your stand this morning and noticed this connection on the front. Due to the top-heaviness, this joint doesn't have enough connection points and will lean badly which will probably cause the stud connections right below it to separate. Make sure the vertical lift-arms are well pinned to any Technic beams that make up the foot part of the stand. Again, refer to my stand picture back on page 7.

Neb foot by Scott Roys, on Flickr

2 hours ago, mortesv said:

Great to see another stand design :)

Have you considered transparent liftarms or will it look too messy with black/blue pins in them?

If used conservatively, I think that they will look alright with black. The problem is that there are only 2 kinds of trans liftarms: 1x15 and the 1x11.5 double bent.

Edited April 13, 2017 by ecmo47

[churcholo]

Hi Ecmo,
thank you for the advise! You're right, the front pedestal wasn't well designed, I corrected it. Here is the result:

 

I had seen the solution you suggested at page 7, but I wasn't sure that discharging all the weight on a 45° liftarm would have been the best solution.

For what concerns the transparency, I don't think it would be easy to find them in the market and with the pins connecting them it wouldn't be too nice. If you put the ship on a dark background perhaps it would be even nicer with the black pedestals, it's elegant.

Someone that already built the ship can tell me please if it's possible to attach the hinges of the little back panels to somewhere else (upper panels)? Thank you!

Edited April 13, 2017 by churcholo

[ecmo47]

5 hours ago, churcholo said:

Hi Ecmo,
thank you for the advise! You're right, the front pedestal wasn't well designed, I corrected it. Here is the result:

 

I had seen the solution you suggested at page 7, but I wasn't sure that discharging all the weight on a 45° liftarm would have been the best solution.

Mine have held up fine for the past 8 month.

For what concerns the transparency, I don't think it would be easy to find them in the market and with the pins connecting them it wouldn't be too nice. If you put the ship on a dark background perhaps it would be even nicer with the black pedestals, it's elegant. Agree!

Not to hard to find in quantity although you will pay about $1.00 USD each for them:

https://www.bricklink.com/catalogPG.asp?P=32278&colorID=12

Someone that already built the ship can tell me please if it's possible to attach the hinges of the little back panels to somewhere else (upper panels)? Thank you!

I'm not sure what your asking here. 

Neb foot 3 by Scott Roys, on Flickr

 

More of my two cents....

Red circles: I think that you will need to make these feet at least twice as long as they are now. This thing is tall and top-heavy and the wider the base, the better the stability.

Green Circles: Is this the end of the vertical lift arms?  Is so, they need to be longer to attach to the bottom Technic brick much like you did on the front foot.

Blue Circles: I'd replace these four 1x5 liftarms with at least 1x9's or as long as possible. 

 

 

[churcholo]

I designed the length of the branches having in mind other pedestals of UCS models. For example the ones of the Imperial Shuttle 10212 are 9 studs large and they support it well, although it's quite tall and heavy.

But I trust people more experienced than me, so I modified the pedestals and here is the version 1.2:

 

They are more invasive but they make it very sturdy. What you think guys, better sturdier but invasive or less sturdy but discrete? I must take a decision before ordering the bricks and I'm not sure what to choose. An opinion by people that already built it is very much appreciated!

@ecmo47 liftarms of Green circles go until the bottom. 1x5 liftarms in the middle are pretty well attached, but I added a couple horizontals more just to be sure. For what concerns the hinge plates in the back panels, I think I already solved it: to let the liftarms pass through it's enough to move only 2 hinge plates and modify a little bit the panels as I show here:

 

p.s. I'm also going to replace the barrels (#64951) with a couple of cones (#3943), I don't use to drill or color bricks...

Edited April 14, 2017 by churcholo

[Sheharan]

Hi folks,

due to some lack of place for the Nebulon B to stand on the board I would like to hang it to the ceiling. I will use some fishing line (thin but strong) and I'm curious, if the fixing points at the Nebulon will be sufficient for the this task.

The back section seems to be fairly easy - I will use the existing hole of the technic beam. At the front section I have to remove two tiles to get access to the slightly deeper technic beams. I don't know exactly how to attach the fishing line yet but that seems to be no big issue.

Do you think these fixing points are good enough to support the weight? They are near the two mass centres front and back and are connected to the main structure. I think that could work. Any comments or better ideas?

Back section

Front section

[mortesv]

@Sheharan I'm glad to see someone trying this! I know it will look great!

The two points seem fine, but maybe you will need a third line to balance out the weight from the "sword". I would place the third line further back on the head close towards the spine to prevent sagging.

Maybe you'll also need to move the back line a few studs further backward, but that is harder to judge.

Try it out and please post the results here - and welcome to EB! :)

[Sheharan]

A third line for the head to prevent sagging is probably a good idea. And not very complex to achieve.

To fix the back line more backwards it is necessary to modify the top of the engine section a bit for a roofopening. Maybe I'll find a solution during the building process. But I hope that should not be necessary balance wise. I'm more worried about the stability with just two fixations.

Building this monster without some stands is another thing :-)

But I think I will find a temporary solution.

[mortesv]

@Sheharan I built mine resting on boxes and in a bed on the side :)

[Sheharan]

Yes, that's the kind of temporary solution I thought of

[EKae]

Hello! I've now added four B-Wings and a Hammerhead Corvette to my fleet!

I'm running out of room!

Does anyone else watch Star Wars: Rebels? It's where this ship appears, and it's a great show similar to Star Wars: The Clone Wars.

[mortesv]

@EKae Looking good!

How big is that hammerhead? From what I gather it should be 110meters - meaning 55 studs to be in scale. Or maybe it is 100 m and 50 studs. In any case it should be much smaller than the CR90, but I can't find official stats anywhere.

Edited April 20, 2017 by mortesv

[EKae]

The Lego model is 55 studs - or 17.5 inches - long. So I believe it is scale, but there are no official dimensions for the ship, so you can never be totally sure! :)

[Cjd223]

Love the new stand designs created by the other users to more so "match" that of Lego released UCS sets.  Also, nice Hammerhead!

[bricksmarlin]

This is my first post...so hello to the eurobricks community.

Because my English is not so good I will keep it short.

I want to thank mortes'v and cjd223 for the possibility to build this beautiful ship/fleet.

My Nebulon was build last September and it took me about a week.This year I started to build further ships for the fleet, and I think I'm almost done now.

At the moment the fleet consists of - Nebulon B; 3x GR75; 2x Rebel Blockade Runner; and a lot of mini-fighters.

Unfortunately I can't show a picture of the complete fleet, because something else blocks two more tables which I need and at the moment I have no idea where to put it.

I will post pictures of the complete fleet later.

Because I have no flicker account at the moment please have a look here.

greetings

Steffen

http://www.imperiumdersteine.de/index.php?/gallery/member/8754-bricksmarlin/

 

Edited April 25, 2017 by bricksmarlin

[mortesv]

2 hours ago, bricksmarlin said:

This is my first post...so hello to the eurobricks community.

Because my English is not so good I will keep it short.

I want to thank mortes'v and cjd223 for the possibility to build this beautiful ship/fleet.

My Nebulon was build last September and it took me about a week.This year I started to build further ships for the fleet, and I think I'm almost done now.

At the moment the fleet consists of - Nebulon B; 3x GR75; 2x Rebel Blockade Runner; and a lot of mini-fighters.

Unfortunately I can't show a picture of the complete fleet, because something else blocks two more tables which I need and at the moment I have no idea where to put it.

I will post pictures of the complete fleet later.

Because I have no flicker account at the moment please have a look here.

greetings

Steffen

http://www.imperiumdersteine.de/index.php?/gallery/member/8754-bricksmarlin/

 

Wow, you have already built TWO Blockade Runners - just by looking at the pictures I guess? Well done!

[bricksmarlin]

38 minutes ago, mortesv said:

Wow, you have already built TWO Blockade Runners - just by looking at the pictures I guess? Well done!

Thanks!

And yes, the built was done by looking at your picture.

I tried to stay as close as possible to your original but couldn't figure out everything, so there are a few small changes.

Hope you like it!

[mortesv]

2 hours ago, bricksmarlin said:

Thanks!

And yes, the built was done by looking at your picture.

I tried to stay as close as possible to your original but couldn't figure out everything, so there are a few small changes.

Hope you like it!

It looks great :) I like what you have done with the side middle side sections - although it might be a mm too narrow now that the gap is closed completely ;)

[bricksmarlin]

20 minutes ago, mortesv said:

It looks great :) I like what you have done with the side middle side sections - although it might be a mm too narrow now that the gap is closed completely ;)

Uuups.....my mistake, thought it would be good if the gap is closed

[mortesv]

1 hour ago, bricksmarlin said:

Uuups.....my mistake, thought it would be good if the gap is closed

I am just joking :) It looks good! When doing the model I tried to be as close to the studio model as possible - but 1mm narrower will not make it any less precise - just checked ;)

Edited April 20, 2017 by mortesv