tripletschiee

42056 - Porsche 911 GT3 RS - MODs and Improvements

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The past week I looked at my version of Max' mod and noticed it could use 2 less liftarms for the same result and work with most of your rigid chassis mod. I also came up with a shorter version, but it takes the spot of your 90 degree limiter, which I like more. I also don't like the 4th to neutral thing as it isn't very authentic, but no idea how to improve upon the mod. Need a new location or removal of the 11x5 frame, which nobody wants since it will make the chassis weaker.

In the essentials-MOD the 90 degree limiter could move from the right to the left side, or actually switch sides with my version of the 4th to 1st block.

In my ultimately playable build I need the limiter to be like this or else it would collide with my left rear HoG that can only be routed to the front along the left side of the console.

Still, I think the better way to fix the reverse gear shifting would be to actually bypass the gearbox in reverse. But that would be an advanced MOD and as it adds to realism it should IMO also make sure the gearbox is not engaged when in neutral. That would require the order to be engine->D+N+R->gearbox. Right now it is engine->gearbox->D+N+R.

Btw the essentials-MOD does not have my rigid chassis MOD, although it has a 7x5 frame on top of the gearbox, but this frame only spans the gearbox. It's the poor man's solution :wink:

Edited by Didumos69

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Is it really necessary to make the chassis more rigid ? Using the body itself, I did not noticed any influence on the gearbox...

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Is it really necessary to make the chassis more rigid ?

The short answer is: No and that's why I wouldn't regard it as essential MOD. The frame on top of the gearbox mainly serves to support the axle running from the D+N+R selecter to the diff. That one originally had a 15L long unsupported span. This helps reducing friction.

The long answer is: It depends on what you want with your build. There is a very bendy part in the chassis between the D+N+R-console and the gearbox. If you want all your gears to rattle happily also after playing without body and pressing the suspension a few times and want to be able to gear up your engine and push along your Porsche in 1st gear without a constantly slipping clutch, then you can't do without a more rigid chassis.

Edited by Didumos69

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In the essentials-MOD the 90 degree limiter could move from the right to the left side, or actually switch sides with my version of the 4th to 1st block.

For my idea to work I already moved the 4>1 block to the original spot on the outside of the gearbox. While I'd technically have room for the 90 degree limiter on one side, I don't have room for a #2 connector to actually make it functional. The basic idea would be to put the liftarm for the reverse block mod from the D-N-R selector to the spot where you put the 90 degree limiter, change the 20t thing bevel gears for 12t bevel gears so you have that 1.5 stud for the 2L thin liftarms of the reverse block mod, but this means I have 2.5 studs for a 3L connector :sceptic: Besides trying to find a 2L part that has a flat surface like the #2 connector I didn't look into redesigning the 90 degree limiter, because it already looks as the best design and I don't care as much due to the 4>N issue.

Still, I think the better way to fix the reverse gear shifting would be to actually bypass the gearbox in reverse. But that would be an advanced MOD and as it adds to realism it should IMO also make sure the gearbox is not engaged when in neutral. That would require the order to be engine->D+N+R->gearbox. Right now it is engine->gearbox->D+N+R.

Was afraid it would be that much work :grin:

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For my idea to work I already moved the 4>1 block to the original spot on the outside of the gearbox. While I'd technically have room for the 90 degree limiter on one side, I don't have room for a #2 connector to actually make it functional. The basic idea would be to put the liftarm for the reverse block mod from the D-N-R selector to the spot where you put the 90 degree limiter, change the 20t thing bevel gears for 12t bevel gears so you have that 1.5 stud for the 2L thin liftarms of the reverse block mod, but this means I have 2.5 studs for a 3L connector :sceptic: Besides trying to find a 2L part that has a flat surface like the #2 connector I didn't look into redesigning the 90 degree limiter, because it already looks as the best design and I don't care as much due to the 4>N issue.

I get it. Would have been nice to put the 3 2L levers also inside the 11x5 frame. But I can't think of a way to combine this with the 90 degree limiter either. A 3L thin (+++)-lever would also have helped.

Edited by Didumos69

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Nice, it is a good idea, since the original solution is quite awful.

I have looked to your LXF file, and tried to build it, but the position of the spoiler is different from the original, and there is a lack under your new bottom spoiler (not sure of the vocabulary...). Last, all the weight is applied on the bottom spoiler : its position may change with time, since its position is keeped thanks to friction.

As a consequence, I have build my own one inspired by your work : the big spoiler is at the same position as the original build, and the bottom one is wider, and positionned a little bit further. This why, there is no pressure on the bottom spoiler.

Here are 3 photos to see the result (sorry, I 'am not yet capable to edit the LXF file...)

Porsche_fix_12.jpgPorsche_fix_13.jpgPorsche_fix_14.jpg

Edited by DayWalker

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Lego should hire a few of us builders as an improvement committee, lol, we seem to be better designers than them...maybe we should make the sets and let them distribute them, just like publishing a book

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Well, apparently, I am wrong, my top spoiler is shifted by 1 stud... I'am trying to correct it ^^

EDIT : Done, and the 2x4 L can be used to fix arms (and keep the engine compartment open for demonstration). When the compartement is close, this arm is hidden ^^. This photo should help those who want to fabricate the same bottom spoiler.

Porsche_fix_16.jpg

The following photo is not with the last solution (on this try, friction was poor for the bottom spoiler...), but it illustrates the use of the arm :

Porsche_fix_15.jpg

Edited by DayWalker

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Lego should hire a few of us builders as an improvement committee, lol, we seem to be better designers than them...maybe we should make the sets and let them distribute them, just like publishing a book

TLG probably has a whole lot of other restrictions that we are not thinking of. The model has to be durable. The parts count should not be too high. It should not be unnecessarily difficult to build. And then there are certain connections and techniques that are or are not allowed.

On the whole I think there have been many very good improvements in this thread. And when I get my Porsche I will certainly implement some 'essential' ones. And while TLG could have delivered a much better product, there's gotta be some reasons as to why they did not. Be it certain restrictions, a deadline, or otherwise.

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It was a bit of a puzzle, but I managed to get the gear indicator on the dashboard. The indicator has an offIset of 45 degrees and you can use it as a HoG shifter too. In the process of refactoring I also made the front section of the chassis a bit sturdier and of course I had to move the HoG steering to the rear to get the center spot on the dashboard free.. I will post more details later in my ultimately playable thread.

http://youtu.be/M1S60ZXpZlo

Edited by Didumos69

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Didumos69, thanks for all these hard work (or play) to compile all these mods.

I am following your ultimately playable thread and have applied some of those to my own 42056 set.

Since I purposely built the original version first to see 'how bad it was', I can say that the modifications so far have made this set much more playable.

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Didumos69, thanks for all these hard work (or play) to compile all these mods.

I am following your ultimately playable thread and have applied some of those to my own 42056 set.

Since I purposely built the original version first to see 'how bad it was', I can say that the modifications so far have made this set much more playable.

Thanks! And good to know!

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Stabilized gear rack:

Minor improvement on how the engine is attached to the chassis. When you look closely at the last image before I add the 3L pin with axle hole, you can see there is a gap between the 13L liftarm and the 3L pin with pin hole. When you detach the engine first, you can use a normal 2L pin instead of a 3L pin with axle hole:

800x450.jpg800x450.jpg800x450.jpg800x450.jpg

Edited by Didumos69

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Hi !

As you may know, I have removed evrything between the gearbox and the "H" where Didumos 69 propose is 90-lock speed system and avoids the passage from 4 to 1 speed.

As a consequence, I have a lot of free space in this part of the Porsche, and decided to check whether it is possible to indicate the engaged speed, and the answer is "yes" !

Here are 2 photos to show how it works (the 2 axis for the gearbox should not be a problem, even if they are not present on the photos, and the top gray 4x3 L is covered by the lateral black flat pannels (orange for this example) ). All the mechanism is located on the right side of the car.

Porsche_gearbox_3.jpgPorsche_gearbox_4.jpg

It is not a definitive set-up (axis lengths must be adjusted), but the rotation of the top light indicator is 32.5 deg per speed thanks to two 0.6 reduction systems. A quick calculus shows that the 2L long light arm indicator should move by 1L approximatively when rotating ^ ^.

This last photo shows how it would look like (actually, I have built a the Ian's solution) : the vertical axis should benefit from hole of the 3x11 black flat pannel :

Porsche_gearbox_1.jpg

Edited by DayWalker

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Nice solution! I would consider using it if I hadn't already used that side of the H-frame for HoG shifting.

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@daywalker: very cool solution - very well integrated into the center console

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Nice solution! I would consider using it if I hadn't already used that side of the H-frame for HoG shifting.

Place the gears of your HOG gear selector on the front side of the H-frame instead of the rear and use this mod for the rest? Not sure if it will touch the seat that way, but maybe it doesn't.

Edit:

Never mind, just saw a picture of your setup with the chair. Still think you can route an axle that way though with altered bracing to place a gear at the front.

Edited by Appie

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Place the gears of your HOG gear selector on the front side of the H-frame instead of the rear and use this mod for the rest? Not sure if it will touch the seat that way, but maybe it doesn't.

Nice suggestion, but that would indeed collide with the seat. The HoG shifting axle inserted into the second U-joint needs to be secured very well, on both side of the 12t bevel gear otherwise it will slip. This is my current approach and immediately shows how close to the seats this already is: But I have my own gear indicator on the dash already, although the DayWalker approach is a better place for a gear indicator.

400x225.jpg400x225.jpg

Edited by Didumos69

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Yeah, just edited my last post before you replied. Can brace it differently probably for the same result and have a half or full bevel gear at the front.

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Yeah, just edited my last post before you replied. Can brace it differently probably for the same result and have a half or full bevel gear at the front.

I would be curious to see how. Maybe if the axle that arrives above the H-frame could be secured from the side and not from below then there will be space for another 20t bevel gear inside the H-frame to drive the DayWalker indicator. But that will proof hard, because on the left side sits the 7x3 black panel and on the right side the seat.

Btw, I like my dash gear indicator because you can also use it to shift gears. Adds to playability, not to realism of course :wink:

Edited by Didumos69

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I would be curious to see how. Maybe if the axle that arrives above the H-frame could be secured from the side and not from below then there will be space for another 20t bevel gear inside the H-frame to drive the DayWalker indicator. But that will proof hard, because on the left side sits the 7x3 black panel and on the right side the seat.

Btw, I like my dash gear indicator because you can also use it to shift gears. Adds to playability, not to realism of course :wink:

I got to this point and then I got bored:

8025b2a06bb46e80c7636dc34c29db91.png

I moved the 3x11 panel on the bottom one stud forward to provide a mounting point from the bottom. However the #2 connector is at the max height before it will collide with the chair. Could probably figure something out, but I honestly don't care for either gear indicator solutions. I'd put a #1-4 on the rear HOG gear selector and either have one behind the wheel below the speedometer or nothing at all elsewhere in the car. That's the only places a speed indicator belongs imo at (hidden) HOGs or authentic. Not to hate on the MODs, they are great, just not my taste.

Edited by Appie

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Finally, I have integrated by gearbox indicator : it is very compact, as you can see on the definitive integration :

Porsche_gearbox_5.jpg

... and there is no issue with the transmission axes ^^

Edited by DayWalker

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Finally, I have integrated by gearbox indicator : it is very compact, as you can see on the definitive integration :

... and there is no issue with the transmission axes ^^

Great! Nice and compact solution. My dash gear indicator is a little more complex. I will post about the details in my ultimately playable thread soon.

Like I said, I would have adopted this if it wouldn't clash with my HoG shifting. It's mainly because I need to secure this axle very solidly, or the gears will slip (just to clarify):

640x360.jpg

Edited by Didumos69

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