42056 - Porsche 911 GT3 RS - MODs and Improvements

[kahaya]

After implementing a lot of the suggestions on this thread (thanks to all of those that have tried to improve this model), fill body gaps, fix the paddle shift, HOG steering & suspension rebuild, mostly implemented from the PDF file - https://bricksafe.com/files/jb70/42056-pimp-up-my-porsche/42056-1 - Porsche 911 GT3 RS.pdf thanks to jb70 for collecting all improvements into one file.

It has bugged me for a while that there is a gap on the right hand side of the model, opposite the Fuel Filler Cap on the left on the front wing. So I spent a while thinking about how this space could be filled and with 5 pieces have managed to fill the gap without causing the issues of the Wheel rubbing or the door not opening.

So here are the parts needed:

The gap where the parts will be installed:

First step:

Second step - parts joined together:

 

Position of panel in place:

Photo is incorrect - as pointed out by AFOL1976

View from the wheel arch, note the panel does not rub the wheel nor is it visible from outside:

Need to retake photo - as pointed out by AFOL1976

I hope that someone who has been bugged by this gap can now fill it in.

Edited October 5, 2017 by kahaya
Images resized - apologies for being too big

[Paknaloid]

@kahaya that’s a very good, clean mod and it looks great. I’m done with this set and don’t have a spare orange panel, but I would 100% have implemented this if I was still working on it. Excellent work.

[Milan]

@kahaya

I have removed the oversized pictures. Please upload pictures only in EB allowed size. Thanks!

[AFOL1976]

Nice idea, so I tried it with my model. Unfortunately it doesn't fit.... On the pictures you can see that the arch is not fully connected to the orange beam. Only with this 'gap' it fits, otherwise not.

[kahaya]

5 hours ago, AFOL1976 said:

Nice idea, so I tried it with my model. Unfortunately it doesn't fit.... On the pictures you can see that the arch is not fully connected to the orange beam. Only with this 'gap' it fits, otherwise not.

Yes indeed in the photos it's not connected but I did have the whole lot connected last night when leaving on the shelf and it was working. Must take another photo this evening.

Here are the photos of it in place and I'm quite happy with the results

Edited October 5, 2017 by kahaya

[xenos]

I should have added too this thread originally but posted concepts for my 4 wheel drive design at the thread below.

Anyway i now feel i have a robust design and have posted a video of the end product here: - Massive thanks to all the eurobricks community who put so much effort in to saving this lego set after the official set proved to be such a let down.

 

[Mysh]

Hello guys,

The community has done such a good job improving this. I am planning to build my 42056 in coming February, will definitely consider these mods. I also like very much the version with power functions posted by Modoro, but I am not sure how many other community innovations has he considered in his build.

Has anyone actually tried to combine some of these mods together with a BuWizz? It seems this set may benefit from the compactness and increased power.

Do you have any advice on which mod shall I go for? Shall I go for power functions or not?

Thanks

[wolfenn]

On 6/17/2016 at 9:14 AM, el Squatter said:

Thanks for all those upgrades! I did a little one I find rather cool. It's doesn't really help the transmission to work better but it enhances the realism of the Porsche: working doorlocks!

It was a bit hard to build because the space between the door panels and the seats is very small. But hey here it is:

 

 

Can you please tell me which lego parts did you use to build this ?

Are the parts bellow everything that you used in the video ?

 

Technic, Axle 4 3705 Quantity: 2

Black Technic, Axle and Pin Connector Perpendicular Double Split 41678 Quantity: 2

Black Technic, Axle Pin without Friction Ridges Lengthwise 3749 Quantity: 2

Tan Technic, Liftarm 1 x 3 Thin 6632 Quantity: 4

Black Technic, Liftarm 1 x 4 Thin 32449 Quantity: 4

Black Technic, Liftarm 1 x 5 Thick 32316 Quantity: 2

Black Technic, Liftarm 1 x 5 Thin 32017 Quantity: 2

Black Technic, Liftarm 1 x 6 Thin 32063 Quantity: 4

Black Technic, Liftarm 2 x 4 LShape Thick 32140 Quantity: 2

Black Tile 1 x 6 Quantity: 4

6636 Technic, Pin 1/2 4274 Quantity:alot

Technic, Axle 2 Notched Quantity: 4, 32062

Soft Spring Quantity: 2, 731c06

[BrickbyBrickTechnic]

On 10/27/2017 at 4:23 PM, xenos said:

nyway i now feel i have a robust design and have posted a video of the end product here: - Massive thanks to all the eurobricks community who put so much effort in to saving this lego set after the official set proved to be such a let down

Seems there's a backlash problem in the rear wheels?

[petersv]

Thank you for all the mods & improvements.
Inspired by the huge amount of work of this community (eg 42056 Community-driven Errata) i'd like to share another idea on the step 5 issue. The initial intention was to redesign the little bevel gearbox assembly. The main standpoints were to keep the compatibility with the original concept (prevent further rebuild of the environment) while improve the functionality and maintain the visibility / presence. 
So here is my very first post with my first improvement idea [ldd files].
 
fig 01.

fig 02.
Those steps where the Axle Pins 3L (11214) /# 3 & 4 on fig 03./ are inserted on the opposite sides of the beam frame (64179) may be found a little inconvenient: the pins should be bend. 

fig 03.

I'm a virtual builder, so if someone has the possibility to test it, a picture or a youtube confirmation on the working assembly would be deeply appreciated. 
Waiting for your kind comments and suggestions.

Edited February 7, 2018 by petersv

[aefferen]

I am currently on busness trip. I will try it this weekend. Iso the grey ones you can use the black axle pins. That makes it an ‘allowed’ building configuration. 

Edited February 6, 2018 by aefferen

[petersv]

Dear aefferen,
Here is the first revision with axles for a more convenient assembly [ldd]. Probably this setup is not that rigid. Just a guess.

fig 04.

[efferman]

@petersv, why not in this way?

or this?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3ktcrjc5r88cp8l/01_ver_D_w_thin_gears_(axle) modified.lxf?dl=0

Edited February 6, 2018 by efferman

[petersv]

@efferman suggestion 1 - 'cause my mind sometimes stuck in a loop during the creative process and i'm not able to interrupt it without external influence. This is a perfect example :)
Your idea make this approach much more better, thank you. I think this is the same improvement that @aefferen suggested above.

@efferman suggestion 2 - i've tried exactly the same layout with the 99773 triangle and the 32065 liftarm 1x7 but i stuck with the vertical 32270 conical wheel. The horizontal alignment in your approach is really wise. From the functionality point of view this is 100/100 for me, however it's hiding the "eye candy".

Thanks for the feedback & comments.

Edited February 6, 2018 by petersv

[petersv]

@efferman what do you think about this [ldd] ? I changed the 24316 3M cross axle at the horizontal aligned 32270 conical wheel.

to be honest, i've never tried 3749 Axle Pin without Friction Ridges in operation.

Edited February 6, 2018 by petersv

[DayWalker]

Mechanically speaking, these last solution are not very interesting since the small gear to reverse the rotation of the output axel is not very well fixed : Its axis of rotation is limited to 1L instead of two distant supports of 1L

Edited March 3, 2018 by DayWalker

[mo351]

On 12.8.2016 at 4:04 AM, nerdsforprez said:

Finished my modification of adding lights to this set. Pleased with the outcome. Not a huge project.... but while I am away from my collection it was quite a bit of fun and great way to relax.

 

More pics and full write-up at

http://www.moc-pages.../moc.php/431720

Can you upload the instructions how you filled the gap hole between the headlights?

[mo351]

On 10.7.2017 at 6:23 PM, jb70 said:

@DayWalker, good idea! I have added a link in my description to see the diff to the original parts list.

- You will need 224 additional parts to the original set 42056-1.  Use rebrickable's compare feature to see which parts you need. 

Hey,

can you explain why you need less additional parts than didumos when you implemented all the fixes from his moc?
I want to use your building instructions, but I'm confused if you implemented all the fixes from didumos build or not. Can you help me please?

[nerdsforprez]

On 4/24/2018 at 5:17 PM, mo351 said:

Can you upload the instructions how you filled the gap hole between the headlights?

A still pic is literally in the web address in the response you quoted.  

You dont need more than this pic.

[jb70]

On 25.4.2018 at 6:14 PM, mo351 said:

Hey,

can you explain why you need less additional parts than didumos when you implemented all the fixes from his moc?
I want to use your building instructions, but I'm confused if you implemented all the fixes from didumos build or not. Can you help me please?

Which MOC from didumos do you mean? - I have listed all the changes, I included in my MOC, in the description of Pimp up my Porsche

[mo351]

2 hours ago, jb70 said:

Which MOC from didumos do you mean? - I have listed all the changes, I included in my MOC, in the description of Pimp up my Porsche

I mean this here: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-7163/Didumos/ultimately-playable-porsche-911-gt3-rs/#parts

[jb70]

18 minutes ago, mo351 said:

I mean this here: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-7163/Didumos/ultimately-playable-porsche-911-gt3-rs/#parts

These MOCs are not the same. Both of them are based on MOC - 42056 Porsche 911 GT3 RS Unofficial Errata, but added with additional improvements. Look at each other's descriptions to see the difference and choose your favor.

[Didumos69]

46 minutes ago, mo351 said:

I mean this here: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-7163/Didumos/ultimately-playable-porsche-911-gt3-rs/#parts

I used more parts probably because of my HoG shifter and HoG steering under the rear window and additional reinforcements. In my minimal version I used only 30 extra parts. If I had too choose today, I'd build @jb70's version with my improved paddle shifter.

Edited April 26, 2018 by Didumos69

[jb70]

43 minutes ago, Didumos69 said:

I used more parts probably because of my HoG shifter and HoG steering under the rear window and additional reinforcements. In my minimal version I used only 30 extra parts. If I had too choose today, I'd build @jb70's version with my improved paddle shifter.

 

Hi Didumos,

i have build your improved paddle shifter. Indeed it shifts more smoothly than the original one. But i thought, the mounting of the rubber bands inside the shifting unit is very complex to handle. If the rubber bands slip off once, you need to rebuild the complete shifting unit. That's why I decided to keep the original paddle shifter.

But, if we could combine your improved paddle shifter with upside rubber bands, that could make the deal. I think to remember, you have posted some thoughts in this direction. Do you have some examples like photos or ldd, mpd?

Edited April 26, 2018 by jb70

[fred-eric]

On 25/04/2018 at 12:17 AM, mo351 said:

Can you upload the instructions how you filled the gap hole between the headlights?

In the version (am I not able to remember the author) I use, you need 3 parts an axle pin 43093, a  Axle and Pin Connector Perpendicular, and a 3L pin  6558