42056 - Porsche 911 GT3 RS - MODs and Improvements

[aefferen]

Isnt it possible to implant Xerion's 3-mode steering module here and use some gearing to decrease movement of rear wheels compared to front?

Can you give the link I couldn't find the post you referring to.

[porsche911bestcarever]

Ive made a clock using the LDD:

[arshiaIQ]

Can you give the link I couldn't find the post you referring to.

Im not referring to any posts

[mobi]

I have now started building the Porsche. So far at step 107. Applied Blackbard fix on step 5.

Is there any way to test the gearbox at this stage to make sure it is working as expected? If not, what is the earliest step were I shall be able to test the gearbox?

Don't want to discover at the end it is not working.

Looking at this:

http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=133743&st=250#entry2587702

It lists following fixes

0. Apply Paul Boratko's gear sequence fix as described in Jim'sreview

1. Flip the change-over-catches in paddle-shifter-unit by 180 degrees (as suggested by Attika)

2. Add the simple 90° limiter to the gear selecter axle; use two of the four white silicon bands

3. Remove the 8 tooth gears used to add friction; minimize friction in the selecter axle instead

4. Use only one silicon band for each paddle shifter; wrap it around the neck of the ball joint once

5. Extend both change-over-catches in the gearbox with half a stud (more info here)

Now what are the corresponding instruction manual steps??

Edited September 2, 2016 by mobi

[aefferen]

I have now started building the Porsche. So far at step 107. Applied Blackbard fix on step 5.

..............

5. Extend both change-over-catches in the gearbox with half a stud (more info here)

Now what are the corresponding instruction manual steps??

I made a manual where you can find per step from the original set manual what to do for which improvement. You can find it here https://1drv.ms/b/s!...AAHsqH4f-2LZmQ8

Edited September 2, 2016 by aefferen

[Didumos69]

I have now started building the Porsche. So far at step 107. Applied Blackbard fix on step 5.

Is there any way to test the gearbox at this stage to make sure it is working as expected? If not, what is the earliest step were I shall be able to test the gearbox?

Don't want to discover at the end it is not working.

Looking at this:

http://www.eurobrick...50#entry2587702

It lists following fixes

0. Apply Paul Boratko's gear sequence fix as described in Jim'sreview

1. Flip the change-over-catches in paddle-shifter-unit by 180 degrees (as suggested by Attika)

2. Add the simple 90° limiter to the gear selecter axle; use two of the four white silicon bands

3. Remove the 8 tooth gears used to add friction; minimize friction in the selecter axle instead

4. Use only one silicon band for each paddle shifter; wrap it around the neck of the ball joint once

5. Extend both change-over-catches in the gearbox with half a stud (more info here)

Now what are the corresponding instruction manual steps??

The steps you are listing have been included in the unofficial errata as can be found on Rebrickable and here.

After finishing Box 1 you will still be able to finetune all gears and axles without taking apart your model. And even if you discover something is wrong you can fairly easily take off the engine and rear suspension module to get closer to the gears in the gearbox.

Good luck!

Edited September 2, 2016 by Didumos69

[mobi]

Wow! That's an achievement! Wish Lego had made their instructions this good

These steps do require some additional parts. Also, I am not as expert as of you guys

Can I assume that only following changes are needed as minimum corrections in order for the gearbox to work as expected?

step 5 - Blackbard's mod

step 151 - Attika's flipping of change over catch parts

step 267 etc. - Paul's gear sequence correction

[Blakbird]

Can I assume that only following changes are needed as minimum corrections in order for the gearbox to work as expected?

step 5 - Blackbard's mod

step 151 - Attika's flipping of change over catch parts

step 267 etc. - Paul's gear sequence correction

On my first build I made only the first and third of those mods and the model worked great. Later I want back and added the middle one and all the others on the earlier list and it works even better.

[porsche911bestcarever]

Hi

here are more exterieuer upgrades:

1. Thats the place I display my model

2. wheelhole was made smaller

3. Holes closed

4. new rear spoiler

5. one 1x1 transparent stone removed

6. My model next to the pictures at the box

I hope you can see the difference. How can I make the Pictures bigger?

@MOBI make sure you put the GT3 RS sticker at the right place. Look at pictures of the real 911 GT3 RS!

[rollermonkey]

Completely forgot the step-5 change, but mine doesn't really seem to bind up there at all.

[imurvai]

Hi,

Here's my approach for motorizing the Porsche:

- Drive: 2 XL motors

- Steering: servo

- 1 small battery box

- SBrick

I removed the whole gearbox along with the steering wheel shift mechanism and the fake engine to reduce some weight. The purpose was to make it RC and keep the original look as much as possible.

I also did a little modification on the steering wheel mount to have it a bit more realistic.

I'm planning to make video too :)

[porsche911bestcarever]

@ IMURVAI

Sorry, but youve made a building mistake: You have to put a PORSCHE logo on the steering wheel, not an RS Centerlock.

[imurvai]

@ IMURVAI

Sorry, but youve made a building mistake: You have to put a PORSCHE logo on the steering wheel, not an RS Centerlock.

Hi,

Yes, you're right, but I never use stickers that's why I put the other plate onto the steering wheel. To be honest I didn't really check what was on it :) Hope that's the only mistake I made.

[mobi]

I have now finished the Porsche chassis with transmission. So far looks like it is working as expected. I only applied 3 changes - step 5, step 151 and step 267-269.

Wondering how to place the motors on the chassis. Most YouTube videos are showing 2 XL motors at the back. I only have M motors from 9398 set and L motor from 42043 set.

Can it be motorized using these motors only? While rotating the engine output shaft by hand, I could feel some good resistance in top gears. So not sure if M or L motor can provide enough torque.

Why there is such a big free space at the front - just below steering shaft? Is it a good place to fix motor?

Edited September 6, 2016 by mobi

[Didumos69]

I have now finished the Porsche chassis with transmission. So far looks like it is working as expected. I only applied 3 changes - step 5, step 151 and step 267-269.

Wondering how to place the motors on the chassis. Most YouTube videos are showing 2 XL motors at the back. I only have M motors from 9398 set and L motor from 42043 set.

Can it be motorized using these motors only? While rotating the engine output shaft by hand, I could feel some good resistance in top gears. So not sure if M or L motor can provide enough torque.

Why there is such a big free space at the front - just below steering shaft? Is it a good place to fix motor?

I think you should read stevenhalim's (http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showuser=142431) posts on both the mods and improvements thread and my ultimately playable thread. Be sure to read them in chronological order

And if you still want to motorize with gearbox, then I suggest you also read schraubedrin's posts in this thread. I know this is an awfully long thread, but it's really worth scanning all pages thoroughly if you want to get any further. Most things have already been sorted out.

Edited September 11, 2016 by Didumos69

[t12ung]

I've been reading Jim's review thread and also following discussions in the MOs and Improvements thread as well as Utlimately Playable, for about a week before I received my own set.

As I've only recently come out of a dark age and have limited spares/sets, I decided to start building as per original instructions and only applying bare minimum MODs that wouldn't require extra pieces. So I did the 180° changeover catch (Attika) and the gear sequence fix (Paul Boratko) as described in Jim's original review.

After finishing Box1, I tested the gear changes, but even with Attika's mod, it kept getting stuck quite often and catching on the square end of the changeover catch on release of a gear change. While building, I did try to ensure everything had a little play to reduce friction. Not giving up and throwing the set at the wall, I pulled out my 8070 set, which I already dismantled and put in storage for the time being, to use for parts and attempted to rebuild using the Minimal version BI errata. Thank you so much Didumos69 for putting this together! The gear changes are a lot smoother now and practically solved the issue.

However... I'm still reluctant to move onto Box 2 as I have an issue with the 4th-1st gear block. I'm pretty sure I followed the instructions correctly and have checked and rechecked. I didn't have a grey 2x4 L Beam so I used a black one instead. With the block in place, I was getting a gear sequence of 4-1-2-3 (blocking 3-4)

However, if I placed the block on the other side of the 5x11 Open Center Frame, I would get the correct block (4-1). I also had so switch around the axles connecting the differential and D-N-R shifter. I've tried to demonstrate this with a motor in the following video...

Here's a photo of my set up as per following the original BI with errata... Have I done something backwards? (click for full size)

@Didumos69 On a side note, original BI step 74 uses 2 blue long pins to secure the 5x11 Open Center Frame to the bottom part of the chassis. These are not omitted in the errata as a step, but they do not appear in the renders from step 75 onwards. As these seem to make the whole structure more rigid, I'm guessing that they were forgotten in the renders?

Edited October 13, 2016 by t12ung
Posted in wrong thread, so edited appropriate references to threads

[BrickDafki]

On 23-7-2016 at 10:01 PM, charlesw said:

We can buy them now for a limited period of time : http://www.steindruc...uckte-teile.php

Although it's quiet expensive, I ordered a set to use while assembling my Porsche. I love these printed parts!

[Didumos69]

@t12ung thank you for your appreciation. In the image you posted the dbg (+0)-liftarm inside the h-frame and the orange (+0)-liftarm at the left side of the gearbox should point in the same direction, see step 100 of the errata. I can't see if this is the case in your image, but in your video it appears not to be the case. Maybe this is where the problem comes from (please let me know) but the way you solved it boils down to the same idea. You could leave it this way.

As for your side note on the errata, I will check that, thanks for notifying.

[t12ung]

4 minutes ago, Didumos69 said:

In the image you posted the dbg (+0)-liftarm inside the h-frame and the orange (+0)-liftarm at the left side of the gearbox should point in the same direction, see step 100 of the errata. I can't see if this is the case in your image, but in your video it appears not to be the case. Maybe this is where the problem comes from (please let me know) but the way you solved it boils down to the same idea. You could leave it this way.

As for your side note on the errata, I will check that, thanks for notifying.

Thank you for the spotting the issue! Indeed, that is most likely to be the issue. I'll confirm it later tonight when I get home to check it. As for the errata, step 100 emphasizes the correct orientation of the orange (+0)-liftarms in relation to each other that the orientation for the dbg one is easily missed! Perhaps, it's worth highlighting the orientation of the dbg one as well ( as it's obviously important  )

[Didumos69]

20 minutes ago, t12ung said:

Perhaps, it's worth highlighting the orientation of the dbg one as well ( as it's obviously important  )

Good idea, I will fix that soon.

[t12ung]

@Didumos69 That did indeed fix my issue. Looks like I'll be able to make some good progress on it for the weekend. Thanks again for all your great work on this model. I look forward to any future mods you might have planned for it 

[Didumos69]

On 13-10-2016 at 5:31 PM, t12ung said:

@Didumos69 On a side note, original BI step 74 uses 2 blue long pins to secure the 5x11 Open Center Frame to the bottom part of the chassis. These are not omitted in the errata as a step, but they do not appear in the renders from step 75 onwards. As these seem to make the whole structure more rigid, I'm guessing that they were forgotten in the renders?

You are right, I will correct this along with the improved step 100. Thanks!

[t12ung]

52 minutes ago, Didumos69 said:

You are right, I will correct this along with the improved step 100. Thanks!

Glad I could contribute somehow!

[t12ung]

On 8/12/2016 at 3:04 AM, nerdsforprez said:

Finished my modification of adding lights to this set. Pleased with the outcome. Not a huge project.... but while I am away from my collection it was quite a bit of fun and great way to relax.

How about reverse lights?

 

Edited October 17, 2016 by t12ung
embed YouTube

[nerdsforprez]

Are these lifelites with just the effects turned on?  At the bottom of most LED sets there are options to do lots of different effects.  I just didn't have mine turned on.