tripletschiee

42056 - Porsche 911 GT3 RS - MODs and Improvements

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You're aware that will clash with the chair in that spot? Your solution at the rear was better.

But it was for D-N-R sequence... and here the seat can be moved to the front a litle bit or changed... :)

Max

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In the meantime I've finished building, recording, editing and uploading (found some pretty bad music too :laugh: ) so here is my solution for the HOG steering. Uses considerably more parts than Didumos69's used. I've been trying to enhance the rigidity around the rack. I am happy with the result, but that doesn't mean that matches others taste. The steering wheel makes about 2 turns lock to lock, giving a little bit more realistic ratio.

There is an 8L axle with stop, what holds the hog. It is hanging out 2L from the dash. If you don't like that way you can use 7L axle, but in that case make sure you put some half bushes on it (inside the upper bracket) to avoid pulling it out. (that can be annoying :angry:)

Also if you don't like the gear ratios, you can change any of the pairs. This ratio is tuned as I like it.

I'm not good at video insertion, we can agree on that.... :grin:

Edited by Attika

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I did some more finetuning on my suggestion for a HoG on the dashboard. This is the result for now. Like I said in my first post about this, I checked, but I don't know for sure whether all fits. It would be nice if someone could check whetjher this fits and/or works. I edited my first post about this solution to reflect the changes.

Edited by Didumos69

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Got it! the video appeared. There are so many small things to be happy with... :laugh:

Edited by Attika

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In the meantime I've finished building, recording, editing and uploading (found some pretty bad music too :laugh: ) so here is my solution for the HOG steering. Uses considerably more parts than Didumos69's used. I've been trying to enhance the rigidity around the rack. I am happy with the result, but that doesn't mean that matches others taste. The steering wheel makes about 2 turns lock to lock, giving a little bit more realistic ratio.

There is an 8L axle with stop, what holds the hog. It is hanging out 2L from the dash. If you don't like that way you can use 7L axle, but in that case make sure you put some half bushes on it (inside the upper bracket) to avoid pulling it out. (that can be annoying :angry:)

Also if you don't like the gear ratios, you can change any of the pairs. This ratio is tuned as I like it.

I'm not good at video insertion, we can agree on that.... :grin:

Nice solution! You used more parts, but your HoG axle is better secured.

Edited by Didumos69

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Nice solution! You used more parts, but your HoG axle is better secured.

The very same design was in my earlier MOC and prooved well. In fact when I've seen for first the Porsche's original steering I tought that it was perfectly capable to recieve my own system in it. And turned out to be true. Remember I wrote today that I have the concept in my had...

Just between us the porsche's steering as it is never could leave my workshop. It is just savage. (probably that word was too strong... or was it? :devil: )

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Just between us the porsche's steering as it is never could leave my workshop. It is just savage. (probably that word was too strong... or was it? :devil: )

Haha. I don't have a copy yet, but I saw people in video's damaging the bodywork while trying to steer :wink:. I ordered the set but I have other plans with the parts. I will build it but I'm affraid it will never see daylight.

Edited by Didumos69

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In the meantime I've finished building, recording, editing and uploading (found some pretty bad music too :laugh: ) so here is my solution for the HOG steering. Uses considerably more parts than Didumos69's used. I've been trying to enhance the rigidity around the rack. I am happy with the result, but that doesn't mean that matches others taste. The steering wheel makes about 2 turns lock to lock, giving a little bit more realistic ratio.

There is an 8L axle with stop, what holds the hog. It is hanging out 2L from the dash. If you don't like that way you can use 7L axle, but in that case make sure you put some half bushes on it (inside the upper bracket) to avoid pulling it out. (that can be annoying :angry:)

Also if you don't like the gear ratios, you can change any of the pairs. This ratio is tuned as I like it.

I'm not good at video insertion, we can agree on that.... :grin:

Very clever. But i will use 7L axle because the 8L with stop sacrifies the look too much

One question though: is your HOG MOD compatible with Jetros MOD for easy unmounting the whole bodywork?

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Well, I tested my own version of MaxSupercars' gearlock, too much friction and one part needs to be locked into place more than it is to work properly (super flimsy the way it was on the previous page). I'll try to look at it tomorrow.

Meanwhile I finished my HOG solution. Tested the angles of the universal joints, all worked. The one at the rear needs its 3L axle about 1-2MM not fully inserted into the universal joints (so 0.5-1MM on each end) to move freely. Had to sacrifice one 11x5 black panel above the rear axle (tried to replace it with a 11x3, but no luck). The HOG is right at the place I desired though. Easy access through the rear window, compatible with Jetro's modular body mod and it's not directly in sight.

d87a77cca3d61d77b2ba1a249aa3ba92.png

I tried to work out where "the marriage" blocks slots on the chassis, I am 95% sure it's clean. It should look a little like this with part of the interior on top:

a0c64dc3950b5fded105b7e233586731.png

edit: Woops, just noticed I need another solution at the rear to lock the HOG, since this isn't easy "remove gear and body comes off", you can get it off, but you'll probably never get it on there again. One sec, should be easy.

And quick fix done, stupid LDD crashing every second, probably an issue with my videocard drivers. Here's an image, basically the centre where the HOG gear is put, is fixed to the chassis, so Jetro's mod requires no additional effort with this mod.

a468a8a9bb0bbf627ade1312d0c648a1.png

Edited by Appie

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Here's my first mod to the suspension, it now features kingpin inclination, positive caster angle, and macpherson strut suspension.

I tested the shock absorber, and how it is anchored. It seems to be robust enough, but it only has about 1 stud of suspension travel... though this is a sports car. one way to increase travel would be to remove one of the wheels locking the shock absorbers in place, but I think that would increase the amount of play in the suspension's rigidity.I would like to refine the upper shock mount,as it isn't too durable. I think I may also change the layout of the trunk,as it seems more spacious in the real car.

The suspension arm couldn't be mounted in LDD, so I placed it off to the side.

26905319224_4a077d796a_c.jpgLego Porsche GT3 RS macpherson strut suspension by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr

27514384485_d171cd3791_c.jpgLego Porsche GT3 RS macpherson strut suspension by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr

LDD file http://www.bricksafe...erson strut.lxf

I think to add Ackerman geometry, would it be easier to move the steering rack behind the axle, as it requires the steering arms to be splayed out to achieve proper geometry. So maybe the usage of the 7 stud wide rack would allow for modification of the current steering arms.

Time to start on that and the paddle shifters.

Edited by Tommy Styrvoky

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This is the most simple dashboard HoG I can come up with, secure and with a minimal set of extra parts. The HoG is positioned right above the 1x1 hole in the dashboard. The steering ratio of the steering wheel is the same as in the original build, the HoG is more direct. The second image shows the added parts (transparent green) and the dropped parts (transparent red). The red axle connector is a substitute for the new axle connector that was used in the original gearing above the gear rack. I also reused the 5L yellow axle. The last image shows the extra parts needed. I checked with the Box 1 build and I.m quite sure this will fit. I edited my first post about this solution to reflect the changes.

LXF-file here.

Edited by Didumos69

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The more I look at this, and other similiar threads, the more I feel that TLG will never produce 'perfect' set, because there is always a way to improve. Good job guys! I hope I can afford to buy this set and make all the possible mods :classic:

Nice job Tommy with Macpherson struts!

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Very clever. But i will use 7L axle because the 8L with stop sacrifies the look too much

One question though: is your HOG MOD compatible with Jetros MOD for easy unmounting the whole bodywork?

I far as I can see, yes. As you can see on the video, I solved differently to make the body removable, but thepart of the dashboard and the space under that isn't involved neither in Jetro's, nor in my mod. That is the space what is occupied by the hog sys. I got to go to make money, if anyone is trying both mode, should give us a straight forward answer...

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Amazing Guys, how quick You do the job for TLG. :)

I hope they will apply all of these for the following models of the Ultimate Series.

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This is the most simple dashboard HoG I can come up with, secure and with a minimal set of extra parts. The HoG is positioned right above the 1x1 hole in the dashboard. The steering ratio of the steering wheel is the same as in the original build, the HoG is more direct. The second image shows the changes only (and of course some parts have been dropped). The red axle connector is a substitute for the new axle connector that was used in the original gearing above the gear rack. The last image shows the parts needed. I checked, but I don't know for sure whether all fits beneath the dashboard, but I'm quite certain. It would be nice if someone could check. I edited my first post about this solution to reflect the changes. Thanks!

800x424.jpg?j=1

LXF-file here.

IMO much better than your previous solution - currently this would be my to-go-solution for HOG compared to Appies and Attikas - this doesn't mean that i de-qualify the other two solutions, both are IMO worth taken into account!

If anybody could test this solution with real bricks and if this test commits the smooth performance and integration into the model than this would finalize my list of essential MODs, ie. which turn the original mediocre model into a well performing great supercar with flawless, reliable and reasonable realistic working core functions and rational playability.

This would be the mandatory enhancements to get a - at least - satisfying model.

All stuff on top like better front-suspension or even RWS or motorizing would be the freestyle-part...

Edited by Kumbbl

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That's indeed a very clean and good looking HOG solution, great work didumos69. Personally I really don't like a gear on the dashboard though, but this method I'd almost use myself.

edit: decided to look up the GT3 RS actual dashboard:

Pors-991-GT3RS-dash.jpg

It has a little clock where Didumos69 and Attika put their HOG, 20T bevel gear might be a little too big to mimic that, but 12T bevel gear should be close? Might be harder to handle. Either way, at least the real Porsche has a bump there too on the dash, same height as the clocks for the driver. So the HOG could pass as "authentic" :classic:

Edited by Appie

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IMO much better than your previous solution - currently this would be my to-go-solution for HOG compared to Appies and Attikas - this doesn't mean that i de-qualify the other two solutions, both are IMO worth taken into account! If anybody could test this solution with real bricks and if this test commits the smooth performance and integration into the model than this would finalize my list of essential MODs, ie. which turn the original mediocre model into a well performing great supercar with flawless, reliable and reasonable realistic working core functions and rational playability. This would be the mandatory enhancements to get a - at least - satisfying model. All stuff on top like better front-suspension or even RWS or motorizing would be the freestyle-part...
That's indeed a very clean and good looking HOG solution, great work didumos69. Personally I really don't like a gear on the dashboard though, but this method I'd almost use myself. edit: decided to look up the GT3 RS actual dashboard: It has a little clock where Didumos69 and Attika put their HOG, 20T bevel gear might be a little too big to mimic that, but 12T bevel gear should be close? Might be harder to handle. Either way, at least the real Porsche has a bump there too on the dash, same height as the clocks for the driver. So the HOG could pass as "authentic" :classic:

Thanks! I think it would be a good thing if there are several options to choose from, so I would also like to encourage Appie to continue his effort to realize a HoG in the rear of the car, that would be awesome!

Good news, I took the LXF-file of Box 1 (from Tommy Styrkovy's McPherson post, great thanks to the original designer!) to verify whether all will fit and it does. It would of course still be great if someone tested it with real bricks. I updated my LXF-file to contain the steering train with and without dashboard HoG.

So to wrap things up: This is a simple dashboard HoG, secure and with a minimal set of extra parts. The HoG is positioned right above the 1x1 hole in the dashboard. The steering ratio of the steering wheel is the same as in the original build, the HoG is more direct. The second image shows the added parts (transparent green), what has been reused (original color) and the dropped parts (transparent red). The red axle connector is a substitute for the new axle connector that was used in the original gearing above the gear rack. I also reused the 5L yellow axle and several other parts. The last image shows the extra parts needed. I edited my first post about this solution to reflect the changes. Thanks!

EDIT:

- Updated the LXF-file with the 3x3 liftarm to keep the gear rack in place as was suggested by Blakbird.

- Added a variation with removable HoG to the LXF-file (see third image), an idea from Attika.

- Added a variation prepared for placing the gear rack at the back of the front suspension (might be needed for Ackermann steering).

With and without standard HoG:

960x540.jpg?l=1

What has been added (transparent green), what has been reused (original color) and what has been dropped (transparent red)?

960x540.jpg?l=1

Variations for Ackermann steering and with removable HoG

960x540.jpg?l=1

Parts needed for standard HoG:

960x450.jpg?l=1

LXF-file here.

Edited by Didumos69

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great, Didumos69 and thank you for inventing and sharing this good and essential MOD. I have added it to me list of essential MODs here http://www.eurobrick...75#entry2579973 - and also asked already tripletschiee (Starter of the MOD thread) to update his initial posting - so each owner of the 42056 can see at first glance what to do to convert the 42056 from mediocre to a very satisfying model (more or less for free).

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great, Didumos69 and thank you for inventing and sharing this good and essential MOD. I have added it to me list of essential MODs here http://www.eurobrick...75#entry2579973 - and also asked already tripletschiee (Starter of the MOD thread) to update his initial posting - so each owner of the 42056 can see at first glance what to do to convert the 42056 from mediocre to a very satisfying model (more or less for free).

Thanks, appreciate it! Great initiative to keep track of the essential or 'must have' MODs and separate them from the more advanced 'nice to have' MODs. It will give a first hand to people who simply want to enjoy their Porsche. :thumbup:

Edited by Didumos69

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Thanks! I think it would be a good thing if there are several options to choose from, so I would also like to encourage Appie to continue his effort to realize a HoG in the rear of the car, that would be awesome!

The MOD for HOG at the rear is already done, was a couple of posts above your previous one :classic:

It probably doesn't look finished due to all the universal joints not being connected, but I hate working with that angle tool in LDD, they were tested in real life to work. I didn't want to use that many universal joints, but without redesigning the whole gearbox to fit a steering axle in there, this was the easiest/laziest way :grin:

Good news, I took the LXF-file of Box 1 (from Tommy Styrkovy's McPherson post, great thanks to the original designer!) to verify whether all will fit and it does. It would of course still be great if someone tested it with real bricks. I updated my LXF-file to contain the steering train with and without dashboard HoG.

The original designer of that LDD is most likely JunkystyleGio, considering I recognize parts that use substitutes for the new parts in Tommy's images. Didn't know it was ok to toss around his LDD freely.

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I bought myself and my wife 42056 sets and after completeing box 1 last night, I found different results between the 2 models..

We both did the anti-friction mod of using 2 bushings instead of the light blue gray pin connector and the gear swap mod in the back..

Here are the results:

My model seems to have just a bit more friction when shifted into second gear than it does in first gear.. The other gears are just fine.

My model shifts perfectly to 90 degrees everytime with the orange 2L liftarms and doesn't engage 2 gears at once

My wife's model seems to have less or just as much friction in second gear than it does first gear(Actually her whole drive train seems to be smoother)

My wife's model's shift is always off about 10 to 15 degrees with the orange 2L liftarms and occasionally engages 2 gears at the same time

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And you found out why there were those differences?

I am still trying to pinpoint what is causing these problems between them.. it is very strange having two models built exacty the same right in from of you and both behaving differently..

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Because the 90 degree problem is a.o. Caused by backlash i strongly recommend applying Attikas mode for the Double engaging issue. See initial posting of this MOD thread...

And i can imagine that a geartrain with backlash shows different results in two builds even if identically built. Esoecially when some discrete positions are needed...

Edited by Kumbbl

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Very clever. But i will use 7L axle because the 8L with stop sacrifies the look too much

One question though: is your HOG MOD compatible with Jetros MOD for easy unmounting the whole bodywork?

For you and all of those who don't like to have a cog on the dash:

While I was driving (being a driver) An idea came up... It is an actulal modification of my HOG.

1. Instead of using 8L axle with stop, use a 6L axle

2. Secure the 6L axle inside the upper bracket with 3 pieces of half bushes

3. DO NOT use the pinhole with pin in the dashboard. (sothe last step in the video is not happening)

4. get 2L axle connector, a 2L axle and your desired HOG and push them together

The result is a removable HOG. When the model is on display and you don't have the HOG on and the upper end of 6L axle nicely hiding in the level of the dash. When you wana play it (sorry, demonstrate it :wink: ) you put on the Hog assembly (what we made in step 4.) and it is ready to go...

I'm still a digital stupid. If anyone shares the secret, how can I attach a 133 kb pic here you will see better what I meant.

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