42056 - Porsche 911 GT3 RS - MODs and Improvements

[Didumos69]

Hi fellas, I think I find a permanent solution for the double engagement issue. It is a possible mistake in the instructions. Please watch the video I've just uploaded. Thanks for your attention, give me some feedback how does it perform for you.

I have no idea how to insert the video here, so I link it

I'm getting more happy with purchasing the Porsche every day! Thanks!

I think both swapping axles and changing the catchover directions are being put in place deliberately by TLG, so that people can tinker with it and discover the right way, just like some people like to tinker with their cars. As the video points out, it just doesnt make any sense at all to use a catchover when a 2M liftarm can totally serve its place.

It's as if they have given us a puzzle: "find the five mistakes". As of August 1st they will start sending out the Porsche without errors. It's all part of a cunningly concealed plan...

Edited June 5, 2016 by Didumos69

[Ngoc Nguyen]

And considering the fixes are so simple, so easy to do....

[deathman20]

All these fixes, makes me consider buying it now. Saw it at the store today and just couldn't pull the trigger. Might now if I go back.

Question is if TLG decides to fix these errors will they send out parts to the people that already own the set or the pioneers of the sets out of luck and just have to rummage their existing inventory?

[MaxSupercars]

It reminds me Windows with it's Update Fixes... :D :D :D

Max

Edited June 5, 2016 by MaxSupercars

[supertechnicman]

I tore my Porsche apart (was ready to start box 4) and applied your fix Attika. It def keeps the shift mechanism at 90 degrees, but you still have to pull the paddles all the way back on each shift or their will be some occasional grinding. Good fix! If anyone is going to motorise the car I think they'll need to put a white clutch gear between the engine and transmission to avoid gear grinding during the occasional bad shift.

[Saberwing40k]

Would you explain more about your gearbox mod to get it in right angle?

I actually didn't do any mods. I just have my shift paddles at the angle they'd be at if the rubber bands were on the paddles.

Also, I've got the parts, in the LDD custom parts thread:http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=42465&st=75

P.S. Many thanks to JunkStyleGio for sending me the file for the chassis.

[smdzucladoc]

Hi everyone, long time lurker, first time poster. Just finished rebuilding the car incorporating the mods by Blackbird, Jetro, Supertechnicman, and attika. Those four mods require minimal additional parts but has make it a much better car now. Its amazing how you guys have mod it in around 48 hours the major problems of the car. I have a question. At the end I have a few extra of the DBG 1L round pin connector (part number 18654), wanted to confirm if I somehow miss something. Also, speaking of that, can anyone tell me what is the purpose/function of the parts in the red circle in my pic?

Its step 237 on page 173

Thanks?

[stevenhalim]

hi @smdzucladoc, glad to hear that the mods available in this thread so far really make it a better car.

I don't have my copy to try all these yet.

And the red circle in your picture: usually the reason of putting that thing around a differential is this: so that people do not put the differential in wrong position (forward becomes reverse and reverse becomes forward).

[Saberwing40k]

That part is to idiot proof the differential assembly, meaning that the differential can only be inserted one way. But, for a non motorized model with only two wheel drive, it makes little sense. Sure, it is kind of understandable to have it on a model with 2 or more diffs, like 42043 or 9398, but that step plus the other stuff in 42056, like the color barf, indicates to me that Lego thinks that the average consumer is stupid, even the buyers of an advanced set like this. And, it's not like even putting in the differential backwards would affect this set, at all. So, it's a completely unneeded step. For all their hype, Lego does not actually seem to be thinking about how an actual 16 year old builder, or adult fan, for that matter, would approach this set. Or maybe it's rated 16+ because you have to be an advanced builder to work out all the flaws with modifications. Let's hope that doesn't become a precedent.

Sorry for the mini rant. I just wanted to explain the part as best as possible. Also, you probably will have spare parts, Sariel sure did in his video review. It's fine, you likely did nothing wrong.

Now, does anyone care to explain why that pin with stop bushing has a 1x1 liftarm on it? That part is wholly redundant.

[smdzucladoc]

Thanks guys. I build my fair share of technic before and never seen that before. I thought I was crazy as for the life of me I can't see what that is for. Funny thing is I skip 42043 as I had the Unimog and 9398 as I built Nico71's trail jeep and didn't see the need for the crawler. Saberwing40k you might be right as I think the instructions and call outs are definitely more thoroughly explained. Also, I thought it was interesting that they pretty much show the step for the left side and the right side separately even if they were identical, especially on the body panels as both sides were the exact mirror images.

Oh well, i guess we will see what the bucket wheel excavator brings us.

[Didumos69]

That part is to idiot proof the differential assembly, meaning that the differential can only be inserted one way. But, for a non motorized model with only two wheel drive, it makes little sense. Sure, it is kind of understandable to have it on a model with 2 or more diffs, like 42043 or 9398, but that step plus the other stuff in 42056, like the color barf, indicates to me that Lego thinks that the average consumer is stupid, even the buyers of an advanced set like this. And, it's not like even putting in the differential backwards would affect this set, at all. So, it's a completely unneeded step. For all their hype, Lego does not actually seem to be thinking about how an actual 16 year old builder, or adult fan, for that matter, would approach this set. Or maybe it's rated 16+ because you have to be an advanced builder to work out all the flaws with modifications. Let's hope that doesn't become a precedent.

Sorry for the mini rant. I just wanted to explain the part as best as possible. Also, you probably will have spare parts, Sariel sure did in his video review. It's fine, you likely did nothing wrong.

Couldn't it be the case that the gearbox operates better in one specific direction? I've had that experience with other gearboxes.

[Appie]

The answer has already been given by stevenhalim. The differential has to be in that position so the sticker at the D>N>R selector is right. Putting the diff the other way then forward becomes reverse and reverse becomes forward.

[Didumos69]

The answer has already been given by stevenhalim. The differential has to be in that position so the sticker at the D>N>R selector is right. Putting the diff the other way then forward becomes reverse and reverse becomes forward.

you seem to have an index in your head for anything important posted on this thread

Which brings me to this: Would it be an idea to add some pointers in the original post of this thread to what I would refer to as "Essential improvements and clarifications"? Just to get the basics right.

EDIT: Just a minute ago Kummbl posted the current list of essential improvements in the Review-topic.

Edited June 6, 2016 by Didumos69

[do2]

Hi fellas, I think I find a permanent solution for the double engagement issue. It is a possible mistake in the instructions. Please watch the video I've just uploaded. Thanks for your attention, give me some feedback how does it perform for you.

Hi all, I am just in the middle of the build so far, but I've experienced the same jamming of gears while switching, too.

Different than Attika's solution you will need one additional Lego part, so be warned, but this is what worked out for me ;)

I replaced the new red Driving Ring Connector (Part 6153686) with the white one (Part 6100932; the Porsche has one, but this is used for the D-N-R clutch) in the leftside clutch of the PDK (ie. left from the driver's perspective).

This simple step tamed the backlash in my model and - you have still to engage the levers firmly - provided consistent change of gears without jamming.

It didn't work as well swapping that part on the rightside clutch or on both, though.

[scooper22]

The answer has already been given by stevenhalim. The differential has to be in that position so the sticker at the D>N>R selector is right. Putting the diff the other way then forward becomes reverse and reverse becomes forward.

So putting in the differential the other way around will make the gear positions match a normal automatic transmission gear selector?

Edited June 6, 2016 by scooper22

[Paul Boratko]

So putting in the differential the other way around will make the gear positions match a normal automatic transmission gear selector?

Lego could have easily printed the sticker for the shifter the proper way for the model the way that it is.. I mean does it matter which way the engine is rotating for drive or reverse as long as they are opposite from each other..?

Edited June 6, 2016 by Paul Boratko

[Didumos69]

And the red circle in your picture: usually the reason of putting that thing around a differential is this: so that people do not put the differential in wrong position (forward becomes reverse and reverse becomes forward).

The answer has already been given by stevenhalim. The differential has to be in that position so the sticker at the D>N>R selector is right. Putting the diff the other way then forward becomes reverse and reverse becomes forward.

So putting in the differential the other way around will make the gear positions match a normal automatic transmission gear selector?

I still don't get it. You can just put the D+N+R-sticker the other way around - without changing anything else - and the engine won't complain. The major difference when putting the differential the other way around is that all gears and axles in the gearbox will rotate in opposite direction. It could still be the case that the differential is placed as it is, because the gearbox has a preferred direction. Like I said, I've had that experience with other gearboxes, so it wouldn't appear strange to me.

Or am I missing something?

Edited June 6, 2016 by Didumos69

[Catalinanmb]

Do the letters written upside down feels ok to you?

[Paul Boratko]

I wonder what Lego's logic for having D and R switched was.. I can see for a younger child saying, "Ok, forward is forward and backwards is reverse" but seeing as how this set ws targeted at older teens and adults, I really don't get it as it is unrealistic..

Edited June 6, 2016 by Paul Boratko

[Appie]

So putting in the differential the other way around will make the gear positions match a normal automatic transmission gear selector?

(normal R>N>D image)

Yup, but then you need a different sticker as well.

After messing around with MaxSupercars' mod for the gearlock, I kind of wished it was R>N>D instead of D>N>R, would have made my mod of his mod a little easier. Thanks to JunkystyleGio I have some renders of this mod. I am 99% sure it should work like MaxSupercars' mod, but it's hidden better in the model (imo). Anyway this is it:

The purple parts (and a few pins/axles that are still blue) is what has been altered (of course supertechnicman's mod is also applied).

Barely visible on the image is this part:

I had to make a slight adjustment to Blakbird's mod to fit this mechanism under the midconsole panel. I tested this in a quick mock up and it doesn't seem to cause additional friction. The pin joiner that was originally there really doesn't like that first stud in front of bevel gears, but seems cool with the second stud where the second bush would go, that's the main reason I kept working on this. Also the liftarm I had here was thinner than the pin joiner. People who have built it, please test it if my mockup was right, because if it isn't this whole mod of a mod is useless

The 13L liftarm in front of this mechanism had to move one stud forward. Luckily since Lego didn't do anything with that abundance of space in front, it can move. This shouldn't cause additional issues for stuctural intergrity, because that part of chassis is also held in place by the midconsole panels.

This is what it should like with proper colours:

And with the panel over it (and later the chair), it's barely visible:

Unlike Max, I only used 1L for the blocking mechanism instead of 2, due to only having one stud of movement and in Max's setup he will clash with the gears behind it, but I don't think the second is really needed especially in this setup that has the block locked in from all sides. Speaking of which. I used a 3L axle with stop which isn't secured on the end of the pin with pinhole, I don't expect it to fall out because the thing is locked in place at the rear with this part, but again please test it I could have used a 4L axle, but wasn't sure if it would clash with the liftarm in the second image of this post that I moved a stud in Blakbird's mod.

I hope it works, if not, back to the drawing board.

[Didumos69]

Do the letters written upside down feels ok to you?

No, but that was not my point. It was suggested that the differential has been placed this way to match the D+N+R-sticker and I wanted to clarify that it doesn't matter which way the engine is rotating for drive or reverse. So matching the sticker can't be the reason for the differential being placed as is. Hence it could still be the case that the differential is placed as it is, because the gearbox has a preferred direction.

If anyone can explain what's wrong with this reasoning, then please do.

Edited June 6, 2016 by Didumos69

[Appie]

Paul Boratko's logic makes sense for Lego's point of view, not so much for anybody else who is older, but hey, goes with the realistic steering and suspension right?

[Didumos69]

Paul Boratko's logic makes sense for Lego's point of view, not so much for anybody else who is older, but hey, goes with the realistic steering and suspension right?

Agreed. But the question - or at least my question - remains: Could a preferred direction of the gearbox be the reason for the diff being placed the way it is?

[Appie]

Yes, why? Because of the posts above (yours on the previous page ).

More interested in what people think of the adjustment I made to MaxSupercars' mod.

Edited June 6, 2016 by Appie

[Didumos69]

The differential has to be in that position so the sticker at the D>N>R selector is right. Putting the diff the other way then forward becomes reverse and reverse becomes forward.

So putting in the differential the other way around will make the gear positions match a normal automatic transmission gear selector?

Yup, but then you need a different sticker as well.

I wanted to clarify that it doesn't matter which way the engine is rotating for drive or reverse. So matching the sticker can't be the reason for the differential being placed as is. Hence it could still be the case that the differential is placed as it is, because the gearbox has a preferred direction.

Yes, why? Because of the posts above (yours on the previous page ).

I was triggered by scooper22's conclusion and your confirmation. I couldn't follow the logic and wanted to know if I was missing something.

But it's not that important so let's not get distracted from the interesting adjustment you made to MaxSupercars' mod

Edited June 6, 2016 by Didumos69