steph77 Posted June 3, 2016 (edited) Hello, Always in my thoughts ..... Today BI analysis of the set. I recently stood my old 8865 and was surprised of the level of complexity of the assembly. You had to puzzle over how to run the components all the time. In the same idea, the proposed product is working perfectly after careful assembly and setup. On some older models you even had to clean the cylinders and finely adjust the camshaft for a chance to see the dummy engine running. And how happy you were when finally done ... In a sense it was an integral part of the concept #Lego technic I am surprised to see the number of negative reactions on the net to the fact that the friction appear at moment on the set. #Original Mind is lost I think. For me it's a source of motivation. I do not buy a finished product, but a model that I have to puzzle my head to make it work proprely ..... Question of perspective. Returning to the instructions. I regret today the simplistic appearance, became the norm, of the assembly instructions. Nevertheless, I must commend the TLC effort on the presentation and the interest thereof. I am part of today these dads who spend time with their (s) child (ren) .... and those who pass between the other on Lego toys. In this sense, I logically falls under the sway of Lego marketing. But not that all (since I post here). Critical thinking is there, but the #original passion too. In short this set has convinced me, perhaps for different reasons than the 'Apple' commercial marketing of TLC but satisfied nonetheless. Maybe you also elsewhere, Steph. Edited June 3, 2016 by steph77 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lego Dino 500 Posted June 3, 2016 (edited) I have to admit, a few small details like the headlight mounting bother me. They could have mounted it a brick shorter on the liftarms and made it flush using a 1x1 technic brick and a clear stud. But I'm excited for this new Technic UCS series. I want to see something big, muscly, and American for the next set. Like a Viper, Challenger, or a 6.7L diesel Ram. I rode in one, and if you mash the accelerator the 0-60 is insane for a full-size truck. I'd love to see a SRT Hellcat Challenger even more than that though. This set is going to be a must-buy for me. Edited June 3, 2016 by Lego Dino 500 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Posted June 3, 2016 Instructions are now on Lego.com. No corrections yet... That's because there were no errors, you silly boy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rikus Posted June 3, 2016 The "rubber" rubber bands (the black ones) wear out over time, but I have never had that problem with the silicone versions (white, blue, red). They should last effectively forever. Perfectly agree. Silicon rubber bands can last forever (they are normally used as seals in underwater cases, too), but some care is suggested: 1) it's better to loosen bands that have to much traction on them, when displaying the model (i.e.: the white ones used in PvdB Koenigsegg) 2) It could be useful to periodically (once a year is enough) apply some silicone grease on the rubber bands (just a veil: putting a small amount on the fingertips, rubbing fingertips and then touching the band surface is enough). I'm already using a 15 years old silicon band (as a seal) on my underwater camera case, ad it's still as new. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jetro Posted June 3, 2016 Finished the model a couple of hours ago and thought I would share a few more photos. I incorporated Jetro's changes to allow easy removal of the body, and I'm glad I did. Now the functions are easily visible. I also replaced 100+ pins and connectors with better colors to improve the appearance of the car. I think it looks really good. Glad you liked the mod - it was something that really bothered me, not being able to see the mechanism inside. I'm curious about the 3L red axle connector you removed. Would that be the one that is in front of the drive selector? Yes. I actually think it works even better with the body on. Adding the body makes the whole structure more rigid. That means reducing friction that might come from bending. Of course that applies less if you don't add the wheels and lay the chassis flat on the table. Well, it could be very well the thuth that it was deliberate. I have a feeling that it may indeed have been deliberate, but not for the reasons they give. If you use the correct sequence with the full body attached (and so practically no view of the mechanism or the engine), it is very hard to see (or feel) you have actually changed gears. If you use the incorrect (official LEGO) order you feel a much clearer difference between gears. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kumbbl Posted June 3, 2016 (edited) Adding the body makes the whole structure more rigid. That means reducing friction that might come from bending. Of course that applies less if you don't add the wheels and lay the chassis flat on the table. well, this reply and blakbirds comment give me a great hope that with blakbirds step-5-mod at least the friction issue is more or less solved (carefully aligned the pins with pin hole preconditioned) - and IMHO this was/is the biggest flaw with the Porsche... im sure quite all other pitfalls or cons of the Porsche can be solved by several MODs which can each owner invent/apply... Edited June 3, 2016 by Kumbbl Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wumsi Posted June 3, 2016 Great review...But it reads more like i should buy the set, but it somewhere in my basement, and wait until some of you master lego builders present a real ultimate expirience :D Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jetro Posted June 3, 2016 @Blakbird, when looking at page 493 of the instructions (the marriage) it appears to me that at least the pin with pinhole that you discussed in your earlier post (there are more of these as I understand) can be replaced with a 3L axle-pin connector with center pin hole . Can you confirm? Yes it can, but that requires 3 parts instead of one so LEGO naturally chose the more economic option. Additionally I find the pin with pinhole sits a lot tighter than the solution you propose as the clutch power on the pin with pinhole is greater that of the axle pins. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fred-eric Posted June 3, 2016 You can find the booklet on LEGO web site (first 35 pages of the manual) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Didumos69 Posted June 3, 2016 Additionally I find the pin with pinhole sits a lot tighter than the solution you propose as the clutch power on the pin with pinhole is greater that of the axle pins. You're right, didn't realize that. I also found out that you can easily fine-tune the pin with pin-hole position from the bottom of the car. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Seasider Posted June 3, 2016 Now that blackbird and jim have worked out how to fix the gearbox and the amazing mod for removing the body I'm more tempted by this model. just the sticking point of the price ... don't think i can justify the extra ~£100 over the CLAAS thats due soon. In terms of the Chassis is it worth converting any more of it to different colours ? eg grey beams to black, yellow knob wheel to black, etc Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
allanp Posted June 3, 2016 Even with the mods to make it work properly, it's still entirely inauthentic mechanically. The phrase "polishing a turd" comes to mind. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
technic_addict Posted June 3, 2016 Yes. I actually think it works even better with the body on. I had to use a longer axle: 4L instead of 3L. Was it just an esthetic change? What step number did you make this change? I'm gathering all the small changes everyone is doing before I build mine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kumbbl Posted June 3, 2016 (edited) Even with the mods to make it work properly, it's still entirely inauthentic mechanically. The phrase "polishing a turd" comes to mind. yeah, maybe it is inauthentic... but the always praised 8880 (i love it!) is even more inauthentic: - no AWS-system would have been implemented in lreal life as done with 8880: with this RWS you would never be able to drive fast onto a highway and switching lanes without crashing immediately - the gearbox has the best gear-switcher up to date but the internals are completey inauthentic - well, the front axle has Ackermann and the best hubs up to date but the rest isn't a more elaborated suspension layout than 42046 I believe i know what you mean: TLG has missed the chance to move the bar to a higher level (no diffenrent sized clutch gears etc...), and here i agree with you - i would have appreciated if TLG has shown us "where the hammer hangs concerning supercars". Well, they haven't. But do you really think that the target customers 42056 would really appreciate stuff like king-pin, caster etc... most of them hasn't heard these terms not to mention understanding them... i have build e.g. Nat Kuipers wonderful Predator MOC and this models has all these nifty front axle stuff - but what should i say - it is nice to build but at the end of the day this is nothing which let your jaws drop or make you smile from one ear to the other... 42056 has not mainly been designed for you suspension- and undercarriage-pros here at EB ;-) well, a model with not working gearbox would be completely inacceptable, for everyone - and without blakbirds step-5-MOD it would be so - but with this MOD applied (and also with that one of Jethro for easy unmounting bodywork) IMHO the model has reached a level which will satisfy a lot of the targeted "audience"... if it is worth 300 bucks, well, this must be decided personally by each technic lover - it is steep, no question, but with the usual discounts from amazon etc. for me it is because i'm sure 42056 will be an essential base of some wonderful forthcoming MOCs... Edited June 3, 2016 by Kumbbl Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JJ2 Posted June 3, 2016 Great review Jim One of your best so far, looking forward to you BWE review. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SNIPE Posted June 3, 2016 (edited) I just finished box 1 and I think this is the best technic set ever!. The new hubs and wheels are great and the gear shifter mechanism is ingenuius. The suspention is also intersting and gearbox. not to mention everything else it can do.I think that they have added as many features as they could, cause lego designers have to consider many things in designing a product. They priced it at £250.00 here, which is a little high but there was only one on the shelf in my kego store. The arocs had slighly more parts and was £200. Edited June 3, 2016 by SNIPE Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mestari Posted June 3, 2016 What is interesting about the suspension? I heard it's the same as 42039. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SNIPE Posted June 3, 2016 Yes it's the same but I've never seen it done quite like this before. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mestari Posted June 3, 2016 Yes it's the same but I've never seen it done quite like this before. So it's different :D Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Appie Posted June 3, 2016 Hello, Always in my thoughts ..... Today BI analysis of the set. I recently stood my old 8865 and was surprised of the level of complexity of the assembly. You had to puzzle over how to run the components all the time. In the same idea, the proposed product is working perfectly after careful assembly and setup. On some older models you even had to clean the cylinders and finely adjust the camshaft for a chance to see the dummy engine running. And how happy you were when finally done ... In a sense it was an integral part of the concept #Lego technic I am surprised to see the number of negative reactions on the net to the fact that the friction appear at moment on the set. #Original Mind is lost I think. For me it's a source of motivation. I do not buy a finished product, but a model that I have to puzzle my head to make it work proprely ..... Question of perspective. Don't forget to change 1 puzzle piece to 2 bushes or you will be trying to wrap your head around the puzzle for a loooooooooong time Careful assembly and setup are one thing, I love the smooth engine on my 8865, but completely requiring 2 different parts to fix the problem is another. Luckily 2 bushes are something that's most likely in the spares of this set anyway, but if it was a bigger replacement needed, we might have been looking at 8043 levels of problems. When I get this set I will be doing Blakbird's mod and most likely Jetro's too, makes this whole thing better. Don't know about replacing blue pins and blue axle pins, most of my black pins are in my Sheepo's Mustang (gotta love that full black engine bay) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
allanp Posted June 3, 2016 yeah, maybe it is inauthentic... but the always praised 8880 (i love it!) is even more inauthentic: - no AWS-system would have been implemented in lreal life as done with 8880: with this RWS you would never be able to drive fast onto a highway and switching lanes without crashing immediately - the gearbox has the best gear-switcher up to date but the internals are completey inauthentic - well, the front axle has Ackermann and the best hubs up to date but the rest isn't a more elaborated suspension layout than 42046 I believe i know what you mean: TLG has missed the chance to move the bar to a higher level (no diffenrent sized clutch gears etc...), and here i agree with you - i would have appreciated if TLG has shown us "where the hammer hangs concerning supercars". Well, they haven't. But do you really think that the target customers 42056 would really appreciate stuff like king-pin, caster etc... most of them hasn't heard these terms not to mention understanding them... i have build e.g. Nat Kuipers wonderful Predator MOC and this models has all these nifty front axle stuff - but what should i say - it is nice to build but at the end of the day this is nothing which let your jaws drop or make you smile from one ear to the other... 42056 has not mainly been designed for you suspension- and undercarriage-pros here at EB ;-) well, a model with not working gearbox would be completely inacceptable, for everyone - and without blakbirds step-5-MOD it would be so - but with this MOD applied (and also with that one of Jethro for easy unmounting bodywork) IMHO the model has reached a level which will satisfy a lot of the targeted "audience"... if it is worth 300 bucks, well, this must be decided personally by each technic lover - it is steep, no question, but with the usual discounts from amazon etc. for me it is because i'm sure 42056 will be an essential base of some wonderful forthcoming MOCs... True about 8880. But it did go from moving gears on sliding axles to having a drive ring slide into a clutch gear to lock it to the axle which is a step in the right direction. In 22 years they have not done any better. When it comes to raising the bar and "showing where the hammer hangs" when it comes to supercars, or when it comes to anything for that matter, I think that a lot of people don't really know what they want until they see it. I am fairly confident that if people saw different sized clutch gears, new hubs based around the 8880 CV joint inside a low friction, low wobble "bearing" much like the smaller technic turntable, stronger diffs and all that stuff I keep banging on about (sorry guys ) then people would see that and know they want it and there would be very little complaining about the price. I guess this set wasn't really meant for us, I guess more for car nut executive types and anyone who likes nice looking technical gadgets and big boys toys. But I would guess that perhaps 99% of these guys knows the basic mechanics of a car and the many ways 42056 differs from that. I know those differences from reality probably wouldn't bother most people like it does me, but it certainly doesn't help make it any more desireable nor does it help them to justify the high price tag for what is still a Lego set. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Meatman Posted June 3, 2016 From the online instructions I built the paddle shifting/steering wheel cube last night, and it is very clever. However, I was quite surprised at how much flexing there was of the parts on the paddles when shifting. This seems like something out of the ordinary for a Technic model from Lego. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vectormatic Posted June 3, 2016 What is interesting about the suspension? I heard it's the same as 42039. Yes it's the same but I've never seen it done quite like this before. That would put it below 42000's proper pushrod suspension imho, and 42039's rear suspension is too high as well, giving the car too much of a big butt :P Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MaxSupercars Posted June 3, 2016 (edited) From the online instructions I built the paddle shifting/steering wheel cube last night, and it is very clever. However, I was quite surprised at how much flexing there was of the parts on the paddles when shifting. This seems like something out of the ordinary for a Technic model from Lego. Yes... IMHO this module got the highest value in this set. It will be a lot spoken about negatives here... The gearbox is simple, suspension too, steering too... but this module is truly masterpiece... other earlier solutions from AFOLs were not so compact like this. So big compliment for designer... Max Edited June 3, 2016 by MaxSupercars Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Meatman Posted June 3, 2016 (edited) Yes... IMHO this module got the highest value in this set. It will be a lot spoken about negatives here... The gearbox is simple, suspension too, steering too... but this module is truly masterpiece... other earlier solutions from AFOLs were not so compact like this. So big compliment for designer... Max The module is nice, but like I said, it requires some bending and flexing of the parts to work. Also the steering wheel feels more like an add on. I may try Paul's clip breaking technique on the driving rings and replicate the rest of the gearbox and chassis tonight along with Blakbird's friction solution and the gear switching. Edit: I also wish there was a solution to the silicon bands being in the way. It looks like maybe we can reroute them underneath. Edited June 3, 2016 by Meatman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
