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Bionicle 2016 Sets Discussion

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Is it a bad thing to keep the sets partially together in their boxes? I mean, I don't want to disassemble them or have them exposed... But at the same time, I don't the parts to break when I rebuild them.

With most CCBS sets, you shouldn't have to worry about parts breaking. The new socket they introduced is very sturdy. If anything, you should take them apart so that the socket does not loosen over time. I know that feeling though, I just curled up my 2007-2010 sets in the cans.

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So I had a random thought just now, while attempting to study for mid-terms....what if some of the combos are not used in the same way? I'm shooting in the dark here, but I wonder whether Onua's gappy torso fits some kind of purpose...in this case, maybe his combo with Terak looks different from the combination Kopaka and Melum have. So, instead of having the paws on top of the basher ribcage pieces, maybe place them to the sides of Onua, thus covering up some of those gaps? Wrap the purple claws around the torso and you have an all-new bulky Onua! Pohatu and Lewa I can imagine using a similar design...since both creatures have multiple legs, maybe wrap them around Lewa/Pohatu and give them a new armoured look, rather than having all the creatures just connect to the Toa's heads and hang off of them. I dunno. It's an idea that popped into my head. Also, I attempted to draw the Earth combination....it looks pretty cool to me :P

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With most CCBS sets, you shouldn't have to worry about parts breaking. The new socket they introduced is very sturdy. If anything, you should take them apart so that the socket does not loosen over time. I know that feeling though, I just curled up my 2007-2010 sets in the cans.

I have couple of broken CCBS y-joints already. Surprisingly it's the axle hole that only breaks.

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The CCBS bones I find most prone to breaking tend to be the longer variant of double-y joint bones. More of those have broken for me than those that haven't. CCBS y-joints also seem to really disagree with Hero 1.0 feet, enough to create a slight, hairline crack in the back that breaks the axle hole, which does seem to be the weakest point of CCBS y-joints.

I'm actually surprised the transparent CCBS pieces are as solid as they are, considering they're transparent.

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I'm actually surprised the transparent CCBS pieces are as solid as they are, considering they're transparent.

Well, the same material (polycarbonate) is used for both transparent and opaque beams and shells. As I understand it, polycarbonate is actually stronger than the ABS the LEGO Group uses for typical opaque bricks, which is why some parts like CCBS beams or System lightsaber blades use it universally, regardless of color.

The biggest concern for builders when dealing with polycarbonate parts is that two polycarbonate parts will have more friction against each other than against ABS parts. So, for instance, if you attach a transparent 1x1 cone to a lightsaber blade, it can be difficult to separate and separating them might even be enough damage the parts. It's not that the material is weaker, but that the forces it takes to separate the parts are greater.

This is why LEGO doesn't make minifigures in entirely transparent colors, just parts that won't be connected directly to one another like heads, arms, and legs. Many minifigure parts are attached by very tiny connection points which might snap if the friction were too great. But presumably this isn't an issue for CCBS parts since they're designed with that material and that level of friction in mind, plus the majority of the parts are a lot thicker and sturdier than a lightsaber blade or a minifigure shoulder joint.

Edited by Aanchir

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With most CCBS sets, you shouldn't have to worry about parts breaking. The new socket they introduced is very sturdy.

I have one axle hole brocken in red y-joint and two brocken ballsockets in trans-neon orange short bones.

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I have had several friction joints crack :(

Same, at least 3 I think. That really surprised me. Good thing they're nearly omnipresent in sets these days.

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I've never had a part break, and I probably put ridiculous amounts of strain on my parts compared to other people (Exhibit a: a 50 by 30 by 20 cm "bubble" of CCBS. Exhibt b: a tight mesh of 40 by 15 by 15 cm). Either there are a lot of very unlucky people on this forum, or some countries have gotten batches with parts of worse quality.

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I think one of the main reasons I've had so many friction joints fail on me is because I used to store them all connected together in a daisy chain. I don't do that now though, they're loose in a baggie.

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Huh. I did join two friction joints together a few times, maybe I should stop doing it then..

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I've had six of those talon pieces used in the beasts or LOSS' legs snap off the molded axle, but they are being used in an incredibly high-stress build, so it's pretty much my fault. Otherwise, no broken CCBS-era parts.

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1 silver CCBS hand that I have removed and reapplied over the years, barely a crack though. I must say, though, my Tahu's arms, and Kopaka's left arm have no definition of friction anymore. ._.

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I can't see any visible eye stalks, they could be just covered up by the masks but what if they were removed/changed. I don't think that gimmick was that well received and it will have some serious issues with the creatures heads. This also would help a lot with Umarak.

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If there is indeed a new eye stalk, I'm presuming they did something like this...

4505191.jpg

...but for the new head. If so, I'll be most pleased.

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If there is indeed a new eye stalk, I'm presuming they did something like this...

4505191.jpg

...but for the new head. If so, I'll be most pleased.

From the descriptions released in French a few weeks back....it sounds like the mask gimmick is still present with these figures unfortunately :S

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Unfortunately? I don't mind it at all, and it could still work with a part similar to what I suggested.

While the masks are still swappable as always, missing the eyestalk sticking out of the back means you cant flick it off using leverage. I think having the shortened eyestalk is far likelier though, in order to give room for the Creature's neck. Having a connection point on the back of the eyestalk could also give a place for the heads to attatch.

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