[UCS] [WIP] [MOC] Venator Class Star Destroyer

[Ellisss_]

Hey guys, I set my self with a challenge about a month ago, to build a UCS Venator Class Star Destroyer similar to the size of Primus's. The instructions for his model are here http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?f=132718. So far I have designed on LDD: the main frame with greebles, engines, red hanger strip going down the center of the model and the command bridge. I currently have the lower hull and upper hull to design. Everything will be my design apart from the two large engines on the rear of the model designed by Qui-Gon-Gin on https://ideas.lego.com/projects/83025 please support his project! I have begun ordering the parts for the main frame, greebles and engines 750 parts for 60 Pounds which is quite expensive as the price per brick is 12.5 pence... I would like any advice I can get as this is my first UCS MOC. I will update this post as I go along and make progress. Render coming soon!

Thank you for reading,

Ellis.

Edited March 13, 2016 by Lobot

[Forresto]

It's coming along very nicely I like the side hanger design quite a bit for some reason. The triangular plating looks daunting!

[Ellisss_]

It's coming along very nicely I like the side hanger design quite a bit for some reason. The triangular plating looks daunting!

Thanks! I am not looking forward to the triangular plating however :(

[Kristof]

It seems like the middle hull part is not wedged towards the front - is it just the LDD? Otherwise it looks good and I appreciate you giving credit to both guys!

Few observations though - you use only very few Technic, Pin 1/2s to mount the greebles, whereas some of these are quite a chunks. Much better to use brackets (either 2x2, 1x4, 1x2...) since these are available nowdays. Secondly, you mount the big thrusters via axle just into one brick with axle hole - that's not very firm. I'd suggest adding few bricks inline (securew with plates or something) and extending the axle through multiple of them. FInally I'm not sure about these full red bridges. I personally don't like red paint on these in any volume but with some grey bits, it looks reasonably well (like qui gon did). This looks too reddish to me.

Primus' design is brilliant, no doubt. But since you are designing it over anyway, it would be beneficial to reflect that it's quite dated. Back then, Hans didn't have the options we have today with all the new parts and available techniques. Considering these could significantly improve the build.

[jdm44]

Looks really good so far. I'm impressed.

[Ellisss_]

It seems like the middle hull part is not wedged towards the front - is it just the LDD? Otherwise it looks good and I appreciate you giving credit to both guys!

Few observations though - you use only very few Technic, Pin 1/2s to mount the greebles, whereas some of these are quite a chunks. Much better to use brackets (either 2x2, 1x4, 1x2...) since these are available nowdays. Secondly, you mount the big thrusters via axle just into one brick with axle hole - that's not very firm. I'd suggest adding few bricks inline (securew with plates or something) and extending the axle through multiple of them. FInally I'm not sure about these full red bridges. I personally don't like red paint on these in any volume but with some grey bits, it looks reasonably well (like qui gon did). This looks too reddish to me.

Primus' design is brilliant, no doubt. But since you are designing it over anyway, it would be beneficial to reflect that it's quite dated. Back then, Hans didn't have the options we have today with all the new parts and available techniques. Considering these could significantly improve the build.

Thank you for your thourough reply. Regarding the bridge I shall edit the bridge on LDD and see what you think. I will consider some new design ideas too. Thanks,

Ellis.

Looks really good so far. I'm impressed.

Thank you!

[Ellisss_]

I have changed the bridge, by adding dark grey pieces to replace the dark red ones. As for the Technic pins mounting the greebles I decided to keep them, however I have just added a lot more to my Bricklink order to make sure it is strong enough! I will also redesign the engine mounts when I have time. Here are the pictures of the new bridge!

[LiLmeFromDaFuture]

Fantastic progress so far! I was always fond of the dark red colored bridge on a particular render of the Venator.

However, how about adding the your photos to your topic from the share feature on flickr by copying the BBCode in the appropriate size?

[Ellisss_]

Fantastic progress so far! I was always fond of the dark red colored bridge on a particular render of the Venator.

However, how about adding the your photos to your topic from the share feature on flickr by copying the BBCode in the appropriate size?

Thank you for your reply! I am new to Flickr and I am not familiar with it, do you know of any tutorials showing me how to copy the BBCode?

[Kristof]

On flickr, browse the photo you want to share. Hoever the mouse in the bottom right corner. Several white outline buttons pop up. Click on the one which look like bent arrow pointing right. You get a pop up window with sharing options. Select BBCode from the list of tabs. Select the size and then just copy and paste the selected code in the post here.

[Ellisss_]

Does anyone know how to connect these

I want to make sure they connect before I confirm the Bricklink orders for the frame minus the engines, bridge and red stripe. I have uploaded the LDD file to the Google Drive, if you can attach the angles please email the finished file to me at eclayforth@outlook.com.

File: https://drive.google...WXJLMklaOU1zZ1k

[Lobot]

Hi Ellis, I've embedded all of the images in your posts. If you follow the instructions from krisandkris12 you shouldn't have any problems Hopefully one of the more experienced users of LDD will be able to help you with the connections - I've tried using it a few times and really struggled with some of it!

[Ellisss_]

Hi Ellis, I've embedded all of the images in your posts. If you follow the instructions from krisandkris12 you shouldn't have any problems Hopefully one of the more experienced users of LDD will be able to help you with the connections - I've tried using it a few times and really struggled with some of it!

Thank you very much!

[Kristof]

^The link you shared doesn't approve others to view the file.

Two things - if the basic frame is taken from Primus' design, then don't worry about any misalignments - everything on his frame connects perfectly.

If you made some structural changes, then nothing is granted and forcing LDD to make the connection won't actually prove you anything - there are very big tolerances on some bricks so sometimes even if it seems connected in LDD, it's misaligned. And vice versa of course.

If you want to try and connect them anyway, I suggest you to add some support bricks 'around' where these should go, so there is more than one stud connection on at least one side oif that hinge. Then the procedure is either to use snap tool (insecure) or to bend the hinge more, attach on one side and then using rotating tool you try to hit the point where the other end meets the other part of the frame (also insecure).

[Ellisss_]

^The link you shared doesn't approve others to view the file.

Two things - if the basic frame is taken from Primus' design, then don't worry about any misalignments - everything on his frame connects perfectly.

If you made some structural changes, then nothing is granted and forcing LDD to make the connection won't actually prove you anything - there are very big tolerances on some bricks so sometimes even if it seems connected in LDD, it's misaligned. And vice versa of course.

If you want to try and connect them anyway, I suggest you to add some support bricks 'around' where these should go, so there is more than one stud connection on at least one side oif that hinge. Then the procedure is either to use snap tool (insecure) or to bend the hinge more, attach on one side and then using rotating tool you try to hit the point where the other end meets the other part of the frame (also insecure).

The frame is different to Primus's if you Direct messaged me your email, I could email it to you.

[Kristof]

You should have something like access request from me on email :)

[Ellisss_]

You should have something like access request from me on email :)

I accepted !

[Kristof]

I checked your design in detail and I suggest you to stick with Primus' instructions, at least for the main frame. Sent you an email with more throughout explanation :)

[Anio]

Go for LBG slopes 4x1 on the tower.

They are available in that color for about 1 year.

[Ellisss_]

I redesigned the frame after a few comments on how the structure is weak. I shall be making more structural improvements as time passes !

Edited March 13, 2016 by Ellisss_

[Ellisss_]

I have finally finished the main frame! I believe everything is correctly aligned. The rear of the model is a lot stronger now. It is around 880 bricks so far!

[lanesteele240]

Will your build have those insanely expensive magnet bricks

[Ellisss_]

Will your build have those insanely expensive magnet bricks

No I have found another method by this guy on Flickr, credit to him. https://m.flickr.com/#/photos/97406734@N04/18624152674/in/set-72157652308655664/

[Kristof]

That's very different model he has (Anio-style). Much larger and with way more complex internal structure - you have nowhere to connect these mounting hinges. Also there isn't much room inside Primus based Venator to use bionicle ball joint locking assemblies. Unless you figure out some very clever anchoring (which is usually oucome of long trial'n'error playing with some hinges and plates and even then it often only works thanks to the tollerances in parts and some bending) I'd suggest using rubber bands+clips or technic 2L rubber dumpers.

[Ellisss_]

That's very different model he has (Anio-style). Much larger and with way more complex internal structure - you have nowhere to connect these mounting hinges. Also there isn't much room inside Primus based Venator to use bionicle ball joint locking assemblies. Unless you figure out some very clever anchoring (which is usually oucome of long trial'n'error playing with some hinges and plates and even then it often only works thanks to the tollerances in parts and some bending) I'd suggest using rubber bands+clips or technic 2L rubber dumpers.

Thank you for your advice. I will consider some ways of anchoring the hulls. It may result in using magnets, however this is very expensive!