Help with IR remote for Volvo 42030

[pdxbricks]

Hi,

I bought my son a Volvo 42030 for X-mass and after building it we found that it wasn't responding to the remote controls from two 8885 remote units: http://shop.lego.com/en-US/LEGO-Power-Functions-IR-Remote-Control-8885?fromListing=listing

I tried replacing the batteries, with no success. When I used the speed remote 8879: http://shop.lego.com/en-US/LEGO-Power-Functions-IR-Speed-Remote-Control-8879?fromListing=listing the loader was responding. Finally I did the cell phone camera test where I issued the commands through the remote and used cell phone camera to image the transmitter and I saw no lights on either of the 8885 remotes, but I could clearly see it on 8879.

My question is has this happened to someone else and am I doing anything wrong? I did make sure the polarity of the batteries is correct, measured the voltage on all batteries (came at ~1.5) and finally contacted Lego for parts replacement. It just seems strange that two of these receivers would malfunction straight out of the box.

Thanks

Darko

[Andy D]

There was another thread describing this problem. http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=118387

TLG said it is because Duracell batteries are built with shorter studs than other batteries. Hmmmmmm....

Anyway, the last post in the thread points to a solution.

Since the poster did not link to the fix, I have copied his text here...

This "fix" was mentioned in a previous thread about batteries not connecting.

Screw a piece of tin foil into a small ball and insert between +ve terminal of the lego battery box and the +ve of the battery.

And

Try an alternative battery to Duracell.

IHTH

Andy D

Edited December 29, 2015 by Andy D

[pdxbricks]

Thank you so much Andy, this fixed it!

I can't believe that the remotes wouldn't work with the most common type of batteries!

Darko

[Andy D]

Thank you so much Andy, this fixed it!

I can't believe that the remotes wouldn't work with the most common type of batteries!

Darko

You're most welcome, glad I could help. I just passed along other info I read.

Happy New Year,

Andy D

[ctx1769]

I used Varta high energy AAA alkaline batteries in the remotes and they worked a treat against Costco own brand alkaline batteries which didnot work

[Larvikit]

There was another thread describing this problem. http://www.eurobrick...howtopic=118387

TLG said it is because Duracell batteries are built with shorter studs than other batteries. Hmmmmmm....

Anyway, the last post in the thread points to a solution.

Since the poster did not link to the fix, I have copied his text here...

IHTH

Andy D

Thanks Andy D, this did the trick for me too.

I am - to be honest - shocked that it matters what AAA battery brand you randomly purchase. ...and shocked that LEGO does not help it's buyers by emphasizing there can be a problem with this specific product (8885), and how to solve the problem! (or at least come with examples of battery brands that work)

[dr_spock]

You can also check out their Customer Service FAQ for Power Functions: https://wwwsecure.us.lego.com/en-us/service/help-topics/bricks-and-sets/themes/power-functions

My LEGO® train (or other set) isn't working. I think it's something with the Power Functions battery box. Can you help?

First, please set aside all your Power Function elements (battery box, IR receiver, motor and remote control) and go through our Troubleshooting Guide to find out what the issue is. If this tells you something seems to be wrong with your battery box, here is some more information to help:

The LEGO battery box works best with AAA batteries that provide 1.5 volts each. This is because the IR receiver and train motor require almost 9 volts (6x1.5V) in order to work properly. Rechargeable AAA batteries only provide 1.2 volts each, which is why we advise not to use them to power your train.

Some brands have slightly different designs and will work better than others. Batteries with a slightly larger positive output (the end of the battery with the + sign) will make them work better with the connectors of our battery boxes. For that reason, if your battery box isn’t lighting up, you might want to try a different brand with a bigger positive output than the one you’re using.

If it doesn’t solve the problem, call or email us and we’ll be more than happy to go through some more troubleshooting with you.