Train Set 60052 Battery Issues

[Shifty203]

What is the expected battery life for using the train sets? My son got the Cargo Train set 60052 for christmas, and we are chewing through batteries in the train in about 20 minutes. The first 10 minutes, it works excellent. After that, the train startsto get sluggish starting moving, then starts to need a little push to get going. After about 20 minutes, the train won't move, even with a little push. The LED on the battery pack is still on, even when the train won't move.

I've tried 3 different sets of batteries from different packs and brands, and its all the same issue.

The controller works fine, and as soon as we change the batteries in the train, it goes great again for a very short time.

Thanks.

[dr_spock]

What kind of AAA batteries are you using? Alkalines? I had pretty good run time with rechargeable NiMh AAA in the battery box at public outdoor running of trains.

Have you checked that all cars are rolling freely by hand?

[crossmr]

What kind of AAA batteries are you using? Alkalines?

Certainly this. Get yourself some energizer lithiums or whatever the duracell equivalent is..

[v6TransAM]

I run Eneloop rechargeable batteries almost exclusively in the kids toys. Can get them from Amazon, on ebay and also some folks have said Costco.

I go where the best deals are.

I did get pretty good run time out of quality alkaline batteries like Duracell and Energizers before I got the Eneloops, so you may be running a cheaper battery or suffering from excessive drag somewhere.

Check all the wheel sets for free movement and pay close attention the the trucks/wheel sets on the engine, both powered and not. If you have them pushed on too toghtly all you are doing is creating drag, so make sure they have some wiggle room on each side.

[Paperballpark]

Just to check the obvious, but I assume you are turning the power up on the controller when it starts to go slower?

[Dutchiedoughnut]

I am using cheap Alkaline batteries and it takes a couple of hours to drain them. What speed are you usually on?

[dr_sarcophagus]

I find duracells won't work very well. The bump on the top is too fat for the terminal. Energizers are fine though.

[v6TransAM]

I find duracells won't work very well. The bump on the top is too fat for the terminal. Energizers are fine though.

Don't start this garbage again......

Simple drill bit and your hand fixes any issues on the LEGO side of the box.

Ream the holes with a drill bit by hand and you will never have the issue again as long as you live.

[Shifty203]

Thanks for all the comments guys. Just a few updates:

Yes, I've checked the battery connections, I understand how the controller works, and all that Jazz. The train works perfect for about the first 10 minutes, then it starts to lose power slowly like the batteries are dying for the next 10, then it becomes unresponsive again until the batteries in the train are changed. Like I said, it works great, but only for about 10 minutes.

As an update for trouble shooting, I've double checked all the wheels are properly on the track, I've taken most of the train apart and rechecked all connections, and I've checked all the wheels to make sure none of them are too tight and causing excessive drag. None of these seemed to be the issue, and I still killed the next set of batteries rather quickly.

My opinion so far seems to be that there might be an issue with the Motor/Wheel part. If I turn the speed up slowly, starting with the first click to speed 1 on the controller, the motor emits a high frequency noise, but the train doesn't move. Turning up the speed slightly to the next notch, the train will start to move if the batteries are fresh, but the train kinda lurches, emiting an slightly louder high pitch noise. Its not a consistent power to the wheels, and the train kind of pulsates forward instead of a constant drive. Turning up to speed three and the train starts moving smoothly.

Again, after about 10 minutes though, it all starts slowing down and getting sluggish, until it stops doing anything at about the 20 minute mark.

[dr_spock]

That pitch noise when the speed setting is clicked to 1 is normal. The Power Function system uses PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) for motor speed control.

Are the fresh batteries from the same brand and/or batch of batteries?

Try running the locomotive with the wheels in the air and see if it performs the same?

[Shifty203]

That pitch noise when the speed setting is clicked to 1 is normal. The Power Function system uses PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) for motor speed control.

Are the fresh batteries from the same brand and/or batch of batteries?

Try running the locomotive with the wheels in the air and see if it performs the same?

All batteries are brand new. I've tried Walmart ones, Duracells, and Energizers.

When set to speed one, is the noise normal even if the train isn't moving? It just sits there, even with the new batteries.

I haven't tried putting the wheels in the air, however I noticed that when it doesn't have enough power to move the train forward, it actually has no issues going backwards.

I'll try a new set of batteries again, and just leave it with the wheels in the air.

[v6TransAM]

Ohm the motor and post the results if you are able to with an ohmmeter.

I can grab mine from garage and post results on a good motor later.

[peterab]

All batteries are brand new. I've tried Walmart ones, Duracells, and Energizers.

When set to speed one, is the noise normal even if the train isn't moving? It just sits there, even with the new batteries.

I haven't tried putting the wheels in the air, however I noticed that when it doesn't have enough power to move the train forward, it actually has no issues going backwards.

I'll try a new set of batteries again, and just leave it with the wheels in the air.

Everything you have described is normal except the battery life. I get 3-4 hours out of a set of batteries.

There are a couple of known issues with the PF gear.

The first which others referred to above but didn't really explain is that some batteries in LEGO battery boxes don't make sufficient contact with the terminals. If the positive end of the battery is too large for the hole it may make a very poor contact and loose a bit of voltage overcoming the extra resistance. Check to make sure the batteries are not tight in the hole for the positive contact (the raised end of the battery). One solution to this is to drill out a bit of material to make the hole larger, another is to put a conductor such as aluminium foil in the hole to improve the contact.

The second known issue is that some of the PF gear was faulty. If you cant get it to work better as above it might be worthwhile to call LEGO customer service; you'll be able to find a local number on their website.

[Big G]

Approaching this from another angle, if your son is anything like mine, I'd suggest getting the rechargeable battery pack (8878) and the charging cord (45517). No more taking the train apart and unscrewing the box. Yes the battery box alone is about $50, and the transformer cord is about $30, but think how short a time just $80 worth of AAAs will last. The rechargeable box can be recharged while still in the train, all you should have to do is remove the top part that pushes the switch. I agree it's a lot of money to pay out at one time on top of the already $200 for the original set, but $80 is enough to qualify for free shipping and I haven't regretted the investment and my son has learned that when the battery dies he has to wait for it to recharge

Also, have you tried cleaning any carpet lint from the track and/or motors?

There is also the option of purchasing a new motor, but then you'll find yourself also buying more receivers, more battery boxes, then lights and more track and Lego trains will take over your living room.

link to rechargeable battery box > http://shop.lego.com...Listing=listing

link to transformer charging cord > http://shop.lego.com...Listing=listing

another thought ..

if you're trying to pull more cars than what came with the set, for instance if you found some cheap cars from China on ebay, you MUST change the wheel assemblies to the Lego version, the Chinese ones bind against themselves, the Lego wheels roll much freer.

You could also try changing the clear/white traction bands around the drive wheels for thicker o-rings. It's mentioned in another thread or two here but the ones that everyone has said work (including me) is http://www.lowes.com/pd_198982-1366-96749___?productId=3369372&pl=1&Ntt=danco+%2335+o+ring danco #35 o-ring. Doing this provides better traction, less wheel slip, etc

Edited December 31, 2015 by Big G

[dxpert]

A good set of rechargeables works wonders for me!

[KABonner]

Hello,

I bought a 60052 set for my son.  It worked fine the first day.  Today it would not move.  Changed out the Duracell batteries for new.  The remote lights up green, when the dials are moved.  The batter pack lights up solid green.  The IR receiver is solid when not moving the receiver dials and flashes when the remote dials are moved.  Both the remote and receiver are on the same channel and the receiver light flashes on all 4 channels.  Any recommendations?

[sjim]

I had the same problem some time ago.

After some testing I found that the wheels on the locomotive that are put in a technic fram got pushed together when driving over switches "backwards". This created a lot of friction and resulted in the behaviour you describe.