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Hardly finished anything on this model, but felt like sharing the progress so far anyway. Building this is the goal:

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Here's a video which shows various functions of the batmobile in the game:

I am planning to add the following functions:

-2x XL motor for 4WD (I expect the total weight to be about 3-4kg, so I reckon I could use their power. I am a little afraid of breaking gears/axles, so still have L motors as a backup plan.

-2 servo motors which are going to provide 3 ways of steering:

  1. Normal drive with airflaps to assist steering (as seen in the video)
  2. 360 degree turn on the spot (unfortunately not in the video but it can do this)
  3. Battle tank mode with crab steering

-2 M motors for the turret and opening the cockpit for Batman to get in (I expect to add that function anyway besides the 2 functions I want for the turret)

-9 PF lights, among which 1 set for the afterburner in "normal drive mode"

I wanted to built this model since Januari, I even briefly considered it for TC7, but Jim and I both agreed that this vehicle fails the "looks like a normal car in non-battle mode" :grin: Meanwhile some other people on Eurobricks had a crack at the model (click en clicker)

I liked the first topic alot for the CGI pictures of the batmobile like this, because seeing all the details on a model that's mostly black ingame is kind of hard. The fact that Warner Bros cancelled the version of the game that came with a scale model of the batmobile didn't help either, luckily these pictures also help for getting the scale right in the MOC. The second topic is pretty nice for some of his brickbuild solutions. An area I am not too familiar with since I built mostly Technic and lack knowledge of normal Lego parts. Two things I don't like about the second model: the wheels are too small (or the model too big for the wheels), especially shows around the wheelarches, but the wheelarches on my model are too thick too, but not as much as this one I think. The other thing is that he cut and drilled some parts to fit the model. I like to find solutions within the Lego system, so modding is a big no-no for me.

Anywho, time for some pictures. It isn't much (not even in time invested, since I just did a little every moment I had time for it), but at least I can copy-paste to the other side instantly, assuming I don't have to make adjustments (as if lol)

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The midsection is just for me to get a rough idea of how it will look (leaning on a BB so it won't fall over). So it's lacking details just about everywhere in that section. Wheels and stuff missing some details too, but I want to get a functional model first.

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Every wheel needed to have 3 things: drive, steering and lights. The real model has electro motors on each wheel, I briefly considered mounting a M or L motor on the side and have it drive the wheel, but getting it locked in place there wouldn't look right with the actual model (wire of the L motor basically going over the inner tire). One thing I haven't looked into though is making my own rims for the tires, I will see how this works out first.

The wires for the lights have been in many places and this is just about the only place where they don't interfere with the steering and driving gears. Here you can also see the main reason why my wheelarch is too thick: I needed 2 studs to fit those functions above the wheel. I am afraid the structure holding the wheels proves to be too weak for the full model, so might have to reinforce that later on.

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XL motor's spot is up for the debate. It will probably end 2 studs lower. Gear ratio at the moment is 1:1 (I think), not sure which way I am going to go with that since the XL is known to break gears and axles :blush:

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Battle tank crab steering mode. My model won't make 360+ turns with the wheels, nor even 180 degrees for 2 reasons

- 360+ I am not feeling because of the wires getting tangled up

- 180 degrees isn't going to really work with the servo. I want to use the servo for snappy steering like the real thing. The liftarm for the steering is a stud closer to the middle of the car than i'd like, but this was the spot to at least get a 100-120 degree turn.

One servo will function as a gearbox between the different driving modes while the other servo just steers. I chose this setup to be able to switch quickly between steering modes, just like in the game.

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Lights had to be used on this model. I am still looking for a way to get the lights to turn red when he enters battle mode, but I don't know where or how (open for suggestions).

The reason the rear doesn't have 3 lights on the wheel (does ingame), is because these are rarely shown (battle mode only, and only with the wheel at an angle).

In case you wonder about some angles in this model. Pretty early in the build I lost track of what's 100% clean so I just began testing stuff by fixing a liftarm on 1 side and lining it up with the hole I wanted to use on the other end. If I could spin an axle freely in this hole, I gave it the thumbs up, if not, back to looking for another solution. One funny spot on the model where there is pressure, is at the rear, thanks to the freaking 12L soft axles, which quite frankly aren't acting so soft! If the soft axles aren't locked into to place the triangle above the rear lights aren't pushed into the 5x7 panles on the top, they push them slightly in when they are connected :hmpf_bad: Some panels are only fixed in 1 spot, to give them room to move slightly around another panel/axle/liftarm if needed.

I noticed a little late that some photo's are a little blurry, sorry, will check it next time.

Next up: the actual chassis.

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really cool to see one made in technic, i followed the other threads also.

Looking forward to where this awesome start is going to :)

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A monumental undertaking indeed as the arkham knight tank is a really complex vehicle, looking good with what you have done so far.

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I hope it wont be too fragile. This is indeed a very complex model, and with all the moving parts (sections?) it could be a real challenge making it strong enough to work properly. Looking forward to see the update. Nice start so far!

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Thanks everybody.

To 'turn the lights red', how about one of the trans-red windscreens lowering in front of them?

Which windscreen did you have in mind? I tried looking for one that would fit 1 stud wide and the closest I got was a 1x4 trans-red tile. Which could work, but I have no idea how to mount it between the wheels and have it automated upon transformation.

I hope it wont be too fragile. This is indeed a very complex model, and with all the moving parts (sections?) it could be a real challenge making it strong enough to work properly. Looking forward to see the update. Nice start so far!

Thanks, And I am a little worried about that as well, for the crab steering mode I want the wheels at an angle upon transformation (most likely with an auto clutch to let the wheels move freely) like it works in the game, but also because this would prevent stress on the parts. I have some rough ideas on how to do that, but at the moment I can't really test any of them until I got the 2 other driving modes up and working.

Minor update:

Didn't have much time to work on this yesterday, so currently working on the rear of the chassis with the afterburner. Decided to use 3L track links inverted to look like the exhaust. I didn't know of another way to get an open tunnel through which I can move flame parts in and out (looking through the barrels, cylinders and whatnot on bricklink didn't provide an approriate alternative). Considered to use the very small Technic panels for it, but that didn't give a look I liked. PF Leds through these flame parts didn't quite give the lighting effect I hoped for, so for now the PF leds aren't directly behind the flames, but a stud higher to "shine on them".

Edited by Appie

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Yeah, it's huge. Westcoast Customs made a life sized replica and that's a shot of it, here a couple more:

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If I remember correctly, Batman ingame is 6 feet 4 inches (1.93 meters) and he barely tops the front window when he stands besides it and wheels are up until his manboobs :laugh: (think I got a picture of that somewhere on my PS4).

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Time for another update. Past week I have been working on the chassis and some minor tweaks and details on the "arms" of the model.

Now it looks like this:

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For the bottom 2 (of the 4) exhausts I tried quite a few things to get it a stud higher (where it belongs on the real model), but it was either grinding the drivetrain gears or interfered with the transformation to battle tank, both things I can't really change much about. The top 2 exhausts will most likely be a stud too high as well, due to the drivetrain (or top 2 correct and the bottom 2 exhausts 2 studs too low, depending how you look at it), but I felt I at least needed to get all 4 exhausts in there, since it is such a prominent feature on the side, the same goes for the round end (the 24T gear and pulley) of the rear "arms".

Top view (in poor sharpness, I really don't like the new camera mode on my phone :hmpf_bad:)

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Technically it can drive now with the 2 XL's. The reason for the huge gap in the centre is for the steering "gearbox". Need plenty of space for it with 4 gearracks and 2 servo's. The battery boxes will most likely be mounted at the rear above the afterburner and at the front. Depends how much space I need for the other features, if either or both spaces are not used I will add the containment seats at the rear and/or a hook at the front.

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360 steering mode. I suppose I can make the gaps on the chassis for turning the wheels a little shorter, because that space is not really used, but going to wait and see how much space I need there for crab steering and how far I can move arms out with a mechanism.

Speaking of which:

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This is the maximum arm extension. Now with the fun of making the steering gearbox I can finally see if some of my ideas will work or not for getting the wheels straight after transformation.

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Also messed around a little with the afterburner. So far it can just move back and forward. I want to link this to the normal steering mode (and have it hidden when in 360 or crab mode).

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I also took a shot at making a breakdisc and other details on the wheels. I did not want to resort to stickers so this is what I came up with. I think I am going to change the round 1x1 plates for Tooth horizontal to give the breakdisc a slightly more round look and I am going to change the centre round 2x2 plate for a dark bluish grey one since that is more like the real model and it makes the batarang pop more. The pearl gold breaks are a product of looking at parts available in this colour and came close to the actual model. The whole thing spins freely on the wheels as does the "electro motor" on the rear. Not very realistic when it drives (will probably move along a little), but when it's standing still I can at least keep them in the real position.

So much for this update, hope you guys like what I did so far. Next update it might be driving with at least 2 steering modes :classic:

Edited by Appie

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i like were this project is going, are you planning on adding an interior?

keep up the good work :)

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Yes, it will have a seat, steering wheel and some screens for Batman to stare at.

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Looking at the version by westcoast customs it looks almost like an oversized quad

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It's not that long ago since I admired brick built version of this car thinking that no rendition could possibly make me more interested. Well, here we go :D I hope you succeed making all this functional - the complexity/size combo is nearly frightening :) But you seem to know very well what you'r doing and the model is geeting shape amazingly well. Can't wait for more updates!

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Thanks. I am afraid the next update will take a while.

The past week I got a steering mechanism that I was pleased with. Had a couple of ideas to implement the 3 steering methods and thought this was the most solid. Except upon testing with wheels attached it became obvious that my biggest fear of the wheelarches being too weak was true. So weak in fact that all the twisting and bending would make any kid cry. The XL's rip the stuff apart. Downgearing won't help, because even when switching between tank and normal mode the wheels just stand where they were, too much friction. Off the ground the thing works fine, but that's not the purpose of this model.

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A belly shot of the crab switch mechanism. The springs function as support for the mechanism. While building this I figured I made use of a L motor for just this function to save the servo some stress, since it takes quite a bit of force and another reason was that I'd be able to crab steer in "normal mode".

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The steering mechanism, while attached to 4 points on the arms and braced on the chassis it is still too flimsy, it can't overcome the friction of 8 bike tires and makes a 20 degree angle at best when trying to turn with the model on a surface.

So basically I had 2 options: make the model never touch the ground or take from this what I can and improve. Three things I can see that I need to improve is

- Can't have drive through the top of the arm, need that space to make the arms solid.

- Can't have steering locked on the top either, it's flimsy in whatever setup I come up with

- Crab steering switch is going to need power and alot of bracing to move the wheels out by force (or come up with a mechanism that turns the wheels upon switching)

For the first one I actually had an idea when I first made a post for this model when I said I couldn't mount motors on the sides of the wheels like the real thing and then I wondered: or could I? Something like this is pretty easy to fit in the current shape of the chassis:

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L motor with a classic wheel against the rubber of the bike tire could work. And with the nice mounting options of the L motor I could also make this my connection point for the steering, which makes it lower and more direct, so that should fix point 2. And removing 2 mechanisms from the top means I got plenty of space up top to reinforce the connection point to the wheels, which combined with the mounting of steering on the side of the wheel should help with the 3rd point on my list as well.

Now the reason why I don't start on this right away. I am just going to let it sink in a while (month or so) and hopefully get some feedback/ideas from here. Meanwhile I am going to focus on some other stuff that has been going through my head while building this, like a TC9 entry. A mind that is sidetracked on different models, doesn't really help when building this :laugh:

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That rubber on rubber drive might not be able to generate enough contact pressure to drive the wheels if the vehicle is as heavy as it sounds. Unless you think this would drastically reduce weight?

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Doubt it will reduce the weight, but figured 4 L motors would be able to move the model even if contact isn't optimal. I expect this thing to weigh as much as Sheepo's Mustang which works all right with 2 L's.

If the test fails I have no idea how to power the wheels and the only other idea I have then is to cheat: the 4 arms doing absolutely nothing and mounting 4 small wheels under the chassis (where the tank switch mechanism is now) for drive and steering.

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If the test fails I have no idea how to power the wheels

Well, it sounds expensive... But what about four buggy motors? They will consume a lot of energy, but the wheels could be mounted on them easily even with some reduction. In my opinion, power of four buggy motors will be enough to carry four battery packs and it will be great fun to play:)

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Well, it sounds expensive... But what about four buggy motors? They will consume a lot of energy, but the wheels could be mounted on them easily even with some reduction. In my opinion, power of four buggy motors will be enough to carry four battery packs and it will be great fun to play:)

Don't care much about the cost, I just want it functional :sweet:

Buggy motors are great fun, but without the proper RC unit to go with it to deliver power the failsafe on battery boxes will kick in after a minute or 2. I saw a Ripsaw with buggy motors made by Barman last year and it was awesome, but would overheat the PF battery boxes in a few minutes. Another problem I have with buggy motors they would eat up so much space that I don't know if I can manage much of the other desired functions to fit in this bike wheel scale. Maybe I'll build a second one with just normal driving and use buggy motors :wink:

Nice to see your still doing this mod, I thought maybe try and put the xl motor in the wheel and have something rotate the motor to steer.

https://www.dropbox....34w/BM.jpg?dl=0

Thanks for the idea. While it looks very solid and gives alot of options, it also means I am building 4 studs above the wheels and my max is really 3 studs with these bike wheels and that's already pushing it for scale. Wheels would be too far apart too with a 3L wide motor in the middle.

Edited by Appie

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You mentioned that the crab steering switch is going to need power and a lot of bracing to move the wheels out by force. I seem to remember on the game trailer that the wheels turned out and "drove" the arms out to the battle mode position. That would certainly reduce the torque on the arms. Just an idea.

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