Blakbird

[GBC] The Akiyuki Project

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Fork to Fork was Very Reliable, I've run it at SEVERAL shows with hardly ANY problem, The only thing that initially tripped me up was if the antennas aren't perfectly straight, it will drop balls. 

And the runout/exit makes it very flexible when you integrate it in larger show displays.

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A couple of changes are needed to make Fork-to-Fork closer to the original Akiyuki design and work better.

I think I made 4 changes in total.

1: Changed the gear housing to accept a normal worm gear because and instructions and Akiyuki used an incredibly rare part.

2: Changed a small bit of bracing back to the Akiyuki design. No idea why it was changed, the original is way better and makes more sense.

3: Removed a bit of ramping from around the wheel. It wasn't in the original. It was added for aesthetics, but snags against the wheel.

4: Most importantly, I moved the off ramp from the wheel back to the original height, which makes it far better and more reliable.

It is a good solid module and surprisingly reasonable to move around.

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@Ankoku

Do you have some images illustrating your modifications?

I still have the “original” version built according to the instruction available here.

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Earlier in this thread, I think I may have posted images.

Several images are just from his videos, as the change is either simple or it is best you choose your own solution.

Holder.png

This is the really simple bracing change. It is just way better.

You can also see the lack of slips below the wheel. Just bare studs. I removed the slopes as they were snagging the wheel.

missing_pin.jpg

Here you can see there is a stud keeping the gear housing in place. This means there is a stud either side if my memory serves me correctly.

This is not the case with the instructions and the housing weighs on the axles, creating extra friction.

This is the important change which makes it operate far better:

wheel_wall_mod.jpg

This is just proof of concept, returning it to the original design. I didn't have the right pieces at the time. Above, I am using 3x 1x1 Technic Brick with a 3L pin through them. I will brace them with a plate either side. You can see there is a plate there from the instructions, I am just going to spread that out over the black.

The main change though, is that this off-ramp sits one plate flower. The instructions have it one plate higher, which doesn't match the original and doesn't work as well.

I am thinking about having that middle 1x1 Technic Brick and changing it to a 1x2 Technic Brick with 2 holes. This will make the tile more secure.

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Thank you all for the quick replies and some insight to modifications. Keep the information coming.

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Posted (edited)

Also, for public displaying, you can see in this video, Akiyuki has added bracing for the antenna. For home personal use, I don't think it is needed. I bought the pieces for it, but I haven't installed them due to lack of need for person use.

 

 

Edited by Ankoku

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Has anyone else noticed that the part list for the Cup to Cup GBC module is incorrect? The downloadable parts list and PDF instructions both state you need 2x Dark Bluish Grey Plate 2 x 8, yet by page 7, you already need 3 of them.

This worries me for the rest of the build.

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40 minutes ago, Ankoku said:

Has anyone else noticed that the part list for the Cup to Cup GBC module is incorrect? The downloadable parts list and PDF instructions both state you need 2x Dark Bluish Grey Plate 2 x 8, yet by page 7, you already need 3 of them.

This worries me for the rest of the build.

i noticed this in the zig zag lifter build too, an extra slope is listed but not used

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I would almost prefer that. When you are buying parts as required, this has basically just halted my build.

I honestly thought these things were automatically generated, especially when they appear in the same PDF file.

Lesson learned.

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5 hours ago, Ankoku said:

Has anyone else noticed that the part list for the Cup to Cup GBC module is incorrect? The downloadable parts list and PDF instructions both state you need 2x Dark Bluish Grey Plate 2 x 8, yet by page 7, you already need 3 of them.

This worries me for the rest of the build.

Are you sure? I only see one 2x8 on page 5 (step 6). The 2x8 plate on step 4 is a technic 2x8 plate not a 2x8 plate. The second 2x8 plate is in step 9 on page 7. I'm not aware of any other 2x8 dark bluish gray plates in the instructions.

David

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Well spotted, my mistake. I wish these things were clearer. It is impossible to spot the difference on the laptop I use to build with.

Ah well, I have already placed the order.

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12 hours ago, Ankoku said:

I would almost prefer that. When you are buying parts as required, this has basically just halted my build.

I honestly thought these things were automatically generated, especially when they appear in the same PDF file.

Lesson learned.

By the way, the bill of material IS automatically generated so a missing part there is improbable (unless it's a custom part or a generated one - a flex hose or rubber band for example).
It's more common to get parts that are not needed - duplicate parts (copy/paste is used a lot in MLCad) are sometimes hard to spot.

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I have been trying Stud.io and managed to get the odd piece in far flung areas due to snapping issues and the fact that space bar also places a piece as well as allowing you to move the camera.

I still need to add a rubber band and flexible hose stuff. Not looking forward to it.

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Impressively, I forgot to order 51x Black Technic, Liftarm 1 x 9 Thick for the cup-to-cup module.

I used a printout to workout what I already have and collect it all together, then remove what I have from the Bricklink list I printed.

This usually works fine, but they were on a page where it was the only item on that page I didn't have, it was also on the backside of the print out.

Doh!

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On 3/7/2019 at 11:00 PM, Ankoku said:

In this video, you can see that the Catch & Spin has dropped some balls. Anyone else encountered this? 

 

  Ankou fact, there are losses in the Spin Robots balls, but they were the first test, now no falls.

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Can anyone give me the part number, or point me in the right direction to buy the old 9V train controller that people use to power their GBC modules? I am not sure of the exact name, or how to find one.

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@Killermike Thank you for that quick reply and the link. Looks like only European resellers. Do you know if it will have an American style plug for the wall outlet?

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4 hours ago, rskamen said:

@Killermike Thank you for that quick reply and the link. Looks like only European resellers. Do you know if it will have an American style plug for the wall outlet?

Power is supplied via a transformer. Thus for the US, something like this. Therefore the controller can be used in many countries - you just need an appropriate power supply.

David

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14 hours ago, rskamen said:

@Killermike Thank you for that quick reply and the link. Looks like only European resellers. Do you know if it will have an American style plug for the wall outlet?

I use these:

https://www.amazon.com/R-Tech-UL-Listed-Switching-Supply-Adapter/dp/B00FEOB4EI

Some would argue with this from a purist standpoint, as it isn't supplied by lego, or supply 10vac, but it works well and is cheap.

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Wow, thank you for these additional comments. I had no idea that the controller needed a transformer. I have plenty of these transformers lying around the house. If one does not work, I can always order it from Amazon. Thank you for the clarifications.

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3 hours ago, BrianGT said:

Some would argue with this from a purist standpoint, as it isn't supplied by lego, or supply 10vac, but it works well and is cheap.

The transformer that came with my control system 2 back in the day is 10V output as well.

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The original units supplied 10vac through a stepdown transformer, which feeds into the full bridge rectifier in the speed regulator unit to convert to DC and then through a voltage regulator to provide 0-9v.  Many people now that I have spoke to at GBC events seem to be using 12vdc supplies, which are cheaper and more efficient with the switching power supplies, and readily available due to their use in security camera applications.  The speed regulator bridge rectifier doesn't care if we are running 12vdc through it, and the voltage drop from the diodes isn't enough for the voltage regulator to care either.

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5 minutes ago, Ankoku said:

I don't think LEGO puritanism applies to transformers.

+1

I use an old 19V laptop power supply with step down converter set to 12V to power severeal train controller. I framed the converter in Lego.

they are really cheap in Germany without power supply. I pay for each unit just 6-10€

800x450.jpg800x450.jpg

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