Blakbird

[GBC] The Akiyuki Project

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On 3/14/2019 at 12:55 AM, rskamen said:

Is it considered "acceptable" to cut lego components when needing different sizes? Such as cutting a 1x15 technic beam to 1x13, or smaller? Also, is it "acceptable to paint Lego in case you need a black brick or beam and you only have a Dark Bluish Gray? I have a lot of beams in 15L and in DBG, but I need them at varying lengths such as 1x9, 1x11 and 1x13.. I also need them in different colors such as black, yellow and orange. I know the paint adds thickness and can make pins, etc a very tight fit.

I'll only cut Lego if it's to make something that isn't otherwise available, (preferably) isn't visible and has minimal waste. So 2.5L axles are easily made by cutting a 5L in half. A GBC module I've just built needed a weird 4L connector which wasn't easy to source so I sacrificed a 9L beam to make two 4L beams. Baseplates are also fair game for making custom sizes.

Paint, though, I would not even consider. It might come off and cause problems with moving parts or just look ugly in addition to possible problems with fit as you've noted.

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Thanks to all regarding cutting and painting Lego parts. I will go to Bricklink for my needs. The Bugatti Chiron, set #42083 is the last numbered set I have to build after that, I guess I just need to build my inventory as I continue to build Lego GBC's and MOCs.

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Finished the Catch and Spin modules.  They don't fit together perfectly for a quad loop, and would vibrate far enough apart to start dropping between the transfers after a few minutes of running.  Maybe if I put a proper towel and tablecloth setup below, they would work.

I like how effective the tuning is for the robot pickups.  If it is dropping balls, increase tension.  If it is not picking up properly, loosen tension.

 

 

Please excuse my crappy cell phone videos.

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Would it be worth adding some Technic, Axle Connector Double Flexible (Rubber) (45590) to the base to stop them moving due to vibration?

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Definalty use the double rubber connector as feet as it will stop the movement and lower the noise transfer.  (much like my compressor uses) 

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Posted (edited)

It all depends on were you plan on using it.  I am going to try to add some terry cloth and table cloth setup and see if I can get something that works for all modules, as most of my modules tend to move around on these cheap plastic folding tables.

 

Anyway, the Catch & Spin instructions are pretty straightforward and it is a relatively easy build, reminding me of building a studless lego set like 42043 Arocs.

Edited by BrianGT

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4 hours ago, BrianGT said:

It all depends on were you plan on using it.  I am going to try to add some terry cloth and table cloth setup and see if I can get something that works for all modules, as most of my modules tend to move around on these cheap plastic folding tables.

 

Anyway, the Catch & Spin instructions are pretty straightforward and it is a relatively easy build, reminding me of building a studless lego set like 42043 Arocs.

have you throught about adding the standard akiyuki connector on the end? it locks all the modules together so you dont have any sliding issues

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4 hours ago, 9v system said:

have you throught about adding the standard akiyuki connector on the end? it locks all the modules together so you dont have any sliding issues

I haven't. as I don't want to lose flexibility to integrate with other modules at shows.  I will take the modules to the Charlotte NC Brickfair this weekend and see how they work.   I put about an hour of runtime on them last night without any issues.  They seem to be more reliable than other Akiyuki modules that I played with in the past.

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I am doing Cup to Cup next. One of the main things I want to try and sort with it, is to try and stop the balls collecting behind the spiral lift.

Great work. It is nice to see the big machine in action!

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I ran the Catch & Spin modules at the Brickfair NC this weekend.  Kept 2 in layout at all times.  The first one (dark gray) that I built, which had about 8 hr of runtime before the event worked flawlessly.  It didn't appear to drop many balls, and only had to stop once over the 14 hrs to clear a ball that managed to get under the infeed from the previous red C&S.  I only had a bit of testing with the other 3 modules, and swapped them in and out of the layout for testing.  Didn't end up tweaking them much to stop from fully dropping balls, but did add a guide to keep balls from going into the center gears.

(starts at 6:34)

 

 

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18 hours ago, Ankoku said:

I am doing Cup to Cup next. One of the main things I want to try and sort with it, is to try and stop the balls collecting behind the spiral lift.

Great work. It is nice to see the big machine in action!

I'd love to build Cup-to-cup too but haven't got and am not prepared to pay for the cups. Do you know of an acceptable (affordable!) alternative?

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1 minute ago, Snapshot said:

I'd love to build Cup-to-cup too but haven't got and am not prepared to pay for the cups. Do you know of an acceptable (affordable!) alternative?

 

cups.jpg

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Does that (whatever it is) actually work or does the increased height require some re-engineering? I have some wheels that are the right diameter but are too tall to be direct replacements.

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Posted (edited)
23 hours ago, Ankoku said:

Remember to post photos of any mods! :)

Attached a picture.  I just had it laid into the gap, with it staying in place from the liftarms.  I also put a few technic bricks in front of the downstream catch and spin.

6 hours ago, Snapshot said:

Does that (whatever it is) actually work or does the increased height require some re-engineering? I have some wheels that are the right diameter but are too tall to be direct replacements.

It will require re-engineering, possibly just changing the stroke.  Nevertheless, a cheap alternative at $0.37 each direct from lego.

guide2.jpg

Edited by BrianGT

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Yeah, you will need to use either a BrickSafe or Flickr account if you want to post images here.

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6 hours ago, BrianGT said:

It will require re-engineering, possibly just changing the stroke.  Nevertheless, a cheap alternative at $0.37 each direct from lego.

 

Thanks. I'll add that module to my build list and investigate when it gets to the top.

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2,5 years ago I have build the Ball Factory as my first GBC module. I got it working well but I found it unfit for events and took it apart to build other GBC modules from the parts. But still I consider the Ball Factory the most iconic 'GBC'.

For this reason I started rebuilding the Ball Factory again but now with 2,5 years of experience in GBC designing and building.
My goal is to make a version that will be more easy to move and reliable enough for events.

To achieve this I'm attempting to put all elements on the well known Akiyuki frame to achieve a rigid construction and have enough clearance for dropped balls under the mechanisms. I also want to make it fully compliant to the GBC standard meaning 10 bricks high in- and outbox. The original version 2.0 Ball Factory is from 2011 and uses a lot of classic (technic) bricks. I plan to use more studless to save on classic bricks and add rigidity but still want to stay close to the original as possible.

If you all agree I would like to gather all information and improvements on the Ball Factory from the 77 pages in this topic and condense in one new [GBC] Akiyuki Ball Factory topic. It will of course start with the original and thanking Blakbird and The Rebricker for reverse engineering and making the building instruction. After that list the most known versions and make a list of all suggested improvements.

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Spectacular idea.  I have often thought of building it, but realizing its too fragile to move/transport, have put it off.  Look forward to seeing you're work!

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I have all parts for the Ball Factory laying round for over 6 month. But haven't started yet.

And I can start building parallel with U. So we can share experiences and sort out the issues we face during the build process.

In short: Im in start building Ball Factory 3.0

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On 3/26/2019 at 7:01 AM, Berthil said:

2,5 years ago I have build the Ball Factory as my first GBC module. I got it working well but I found it unfit for events and took it apart to build other GBC modules from the parts. But still I consider the Ball Factory the most iconic 'GBC'.

For this reason I started rebuilding the Ball Factory again but now with 2,5 years of experience in GBC designing and building.
My goal is to make a version that will be more easy to move and reliable enough for events.

To achieve this I'm attempting to put all elements on the well known Akiyuki frame to achieve a rigid construction and have enough clearance for dropped balls under the mechanisms. I also want to make it fully compliant to the GBC standard meaning 10 bricks high in- and outbox. The original version 2.0 Ball Factory is from 2011 and uses a lot of classic (technic) bricks. I plan to use more studless to save on classic bricks and add rigidity but still want to stay close to the original as possible.

If you all agree I would like to gather all information and improvements on the Ball Factory from the 77 pages in this topic and condense in one new [GBC] Akiyuki Ball Factory topic. It will of course start with the original and thanking Blakbird and The Rebricker for reverse engineering and making the building instruction. After that list the most known versions and make a list of all suggested improvements.

I built my Ball Factory about 6 months ago as my first GBC and my 3rd ever Lego build. The other 2 were earthmovers and diggers. While my Ball Factory is rather stable, it is also rather fragile. I put the base plates on a 5/8" thick piece of board, so I can move it from one area in the house to another. I would never attempt to move it outside the house or transport it. I will follow your Topic with great interest. Maybe I can offer some comments along the way. I built it completely from the Rebrickers videos. I have been debating what to do with it, as space in my house is at a premium. I am also starting to build the Akiyuki train GBC. I would hate to dismantle the Ball Factory, but now @Berthil has given me a renewed interest to continue to make it more reliable and stronger.

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I was seriously considering building the Invisible Lift, and have gathered about half of the necessary part. But I think it is a big, complex, and expensive module to build for the movement of balls as a stand alone module. I had a change of heart and am now considering building the Fork-to-Fork module. Anyone have any insight, detailed photos, or improvements they would like to share? I am also active on the Train Layout forum as I am gathering parts to begin building a few of those modules as well.

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