Blakbird

[GBC] The Akiyuki Project

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I'm searching for a source for buying a bunch of suitable balls for my first Akiyuki module - either original TLG or third party, doesn't matter for me ... hmm, i was sure i had already read about this in this topic but sorry, could'nt find it anymore... so, could someone please post a recommendation where to buy balls for a reasonable price... thanks a lot in advance!

I've been wondering the same myself. The amount of balls available at Bricklink (and the prices) makes getting started a bit daunting. Do note that you can use the new soccer balls that came in a few Friends sets a few years back, but that only increases what is available by a littlee. Currently you can buy them from Bricks and Pieces for 91 cents each... :cry_sad:

I'm not sure how realistic a hope this is, but I think Lego has a real opportunity to do GBC builders a favor by including a decent quantity of Lego balls in the upcoming Lego Ideas Maze set #21305. I certainly hope it will have more than 1 or 2.

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I posted on this in the Ball Factory Thread:

http://www.eurobrick...25#entry2241781

in *most* GBC's these work perfectly well.. they are very close in size, diameter, and weight to a Lego ball.

It'd have to be a pretty special GBC that couldn't tolerate these passing through...

I can say with certainty that I have 100 of these (in exactly the same color) and have had trouble with them in the ball factory. I completely believe that in any other module in this thread though they will work, but in the ball factory, their size, texture and exact roundness or lack thereof on some of them have caused them to jam.They are handy to have if you need a larger volume of balls for a module or several modules where there is tolerance.

I am curious how they would work on the basketball shooter when mixed with Lego balls as weight differences would change the range of the shot.

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I am curious how they would work on the basketball shooter when mixed with Lego balls as weight differences would change the range of the shot.

I was wondering the same thing....I have three different "beads" that I ordered just waiting to test it out.

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I can say with certainty that I have 100 of these (in exactly the same color) and have had trouble with them in the ball factory.

I can second that. I'd say about 1 in 10 balls didn't get picked up by the bucket loader, and they got stuck in the output of the unloader. Some also fell through the gap between the conveyor belt and the main ball hopper.

I didn't (couldn't) measure my beads,but they where from a Chinese eBay shop listing them as 14mm.

Edited by Oliver 79

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@blakbird I think you should also add the module with the conveyor and pegboard to the list, is quite a nice module

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@blakbird I think you should also add the module with the conveyor and pegboard to the list, is quite a nice module

I'm not sure how we would even attempt to reverse engineer that module since there is no video for it.

I am curious how they would work on the basketball shooter when mixed with Lego balls as weight differences would change the range of the shot.

The basket shooter is VERY sensitive to the balls. Even with all normal LEGO balls there is enough variation in the balls and shooter that you really can't get more than about 50% to go in the basket. You could probably make it work with aftermarket balls, but you would have to use ONLY those balls and not mix them with any other.

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A question for the "team" about the Basket Shooter module. I finished building it this weekend and tried it out. There is no specific motor mounting in the instructions right now, but it can obviously just be plugged in to the left side of the module. The problem is that every single other Akiyuki module runs with the same polarity (regulator switch clockwise) but this module runs with the opposite polarity and will destroy itself if you try to run it the same as the others. It also runs too fast when driven directly from the motor and bogs down. I came up with a simple remote mounting for the motor that gears it down, adds a clutch, and reverses direction so it runs the same way as every other module. However, this is not the Akiyuki design. Should I include this as baseline in the instructions?

To be fair, Akiyuki's later changes shown in the bottom view also have a remotely mounted motor with a clutch, so I'm not too far off what he ended up doing.

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However, this is not the Akiyuki design. Should I include this as baseline in the instructions?

In my opinion I think you should stick to akiyukis design

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I vote for the changes you propose. Much better to have the motor not able to destroy the model. That being said, I plan on using Train Regulators for all of these models just as akiyuki did and I am pretty sure that would solve both problems. Of course, I could still use regulator even with the changes so no harm there.

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after attending a couple of large GBC exhibits.. I now think I prefer that all modules run with the same polarity/direction/speed.

Makes life SO much easier, when you can just plug things in and go... without the need for a reversing switch, or speed controller

Especially if you have to swap out a module, or move it somewhere else on a layout

I also try to design my modules, so the motor can always be switched out easy - locked in axle, and long pins that are locked in place

In my opinion I think you should stick to akiyukis design

Akiyuki doesn't stick to Akiyuki's designs!! he changes his modules all the time! :)

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I vote for the changes you propose. Much better to have the motor not able to destroy the model. That being said, I plan on using Train Regulators for all of these models just as akiyuki did and I am pretty sure that would solve both problems.

Using a regulator doesn't solve the problem. Although it makes it possible to run the motor in the right direction, if every other regulator in your layout turns clockwise and one of them turns counterclockwise then there is a high probability you will end up running it backwards.

Also, even though a regulator allows you to run the module slower, you still end up with less torque if you do that in place of gearing down the motor. The motor is working much less hard after the gear reduction.

Akiyuki doesn't stick to Akiyuki's designs!! he changes his modules all the time! :)

Good point! We actually don't know how Akiyuki attached the motor is his original design because it isn't shown. My modification is reasonably in line with what you can see in the bottom view of his "V2".

Based on this feedback, I will add the mods to the instructions. Of course anyone is free to ignore this part and just attach the motor directly if they want.

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Which one would you recommend if i could build exactly one, so what is the one and only?

Which two would you recommend if i could build two. These two should be able to be linked together quite easily, ie. the output of the first should directly go in the Input of the second one.

That is pretty hard for anyone to answer for you because the depends on what you find interesting. If I was going to have only one it would probably be the Invisible Lift and if I were to add one more it would be the Cycloidal Drive.

I had the same question. I wanted to build a mini circuit with just one Akiyuki module. I thought I would definitely consider the Ball Factory first, and then probably the Invisible Lift (which should be easy to add a return to to complete a circuit). But after reviewing many posts I am a little hesitant now. You didn't recommend the Ball Factory, is it because it is too hard to get the timing right, too easy to break down, less interesting to you compared to the other two, or simply because the instruction is not ready yet? :)

Edited by Superfield

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You didn't recommend the Ball Factory, is it because it is too hard to get the timing right, too easy to break down, less interesting to you compared to the other two, or simply because the instruction is not ready yet? :)

It is certainly the most interesting, but it is also very difficult to get it running right and quite fragile and susceptible to problems when moving it. I love this module, but it is not robust enough for me to recommend it as the ONLY module to own. On the other hand, it is so cool that it may be worth it to you. Come to think of it, it is the one I build first because I liked it the most!

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Come to think of it, it is the one I build first because I liked it the most!

That's what I thought :) I think I will certainly end up building more than just one module. Just following this thread itself is so addictive to me!

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<snip>

We actually don't know how Akiyuki attached the motor is his original design because it isn't shown. My modification is reasonably in line with what you can see in the bottom view of his "V2".

Based on this feedback, I will add the mods to the instructions. Of course anyone is free to ignore this part and just attach the motor directly if they want.

Akiyuki did attach the motor on the left side in the "v1" but I agree with the premise that the designs we produce should not be set in stone. I call the build instructions I produce an "interpretation" of Akiyuki's design. Since the GBCs we build are likely to end up as part of a public display, it seems sensible to me that if they can be made more robust and use a common "interface" (e.g. motor rotating in a common direction), then we should do so.

Regards,

David

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@9v system Looking good! You have the major drive components in place and the gearing looks good! I do agree also that there is so much that you can do electronically and to move it forward you just need to start brick building it. Just make sure to add your changes to your LDD file as you finalize your changes. I'm tempted to start bricking this one to see where it will go from here.

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@9v system Looking good! You have the major drive components in place and the gearing looks good! I do agree also that there is so much that you can do electronically and to move it forward you just need to start brick building it. Just make sure to add your changes to your LDD file as you finalize your changes. I'm tempted to start bricking this one to see where it will go from here.

I'm collecting parts for it as it is my next module to build, you are welcome to test it.

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Instructions for Akiyuki's Fork Module are now tested and complete and are available here along with a Brickstore parts list.

  • 56 pages
  • 878 parts
640x360.jpg

I want to thank The ReBricker for doing some work on preparing the files for this model. This module appears simple but was a real challenge. The video is only 30 seconds long so there is not a lot of information to go on, and some angles are not seen. I spent a LOT of time with the file trying to get it just right, but I failed miserably because when I tested the instructions it didn't work at all. The whole rotor assembly was 2 studs too low and interfered with everything. Once I got that sorted and got everything timed, I now love this module. It works very quickly and smoothly. The planetary system for the forks is awesome to watch.

anim1.gif

This is another module in which I found that the polarity was reversed compared to the others. Luckily, it was very easy to add an 8 tooth idler gear to change the direction so now it is consistent with all the other modules.

I spent a lot of time improving the build order in the instructions because, although the original worked, it was hard to put together and sometimes parts had to be removed to install other parts. I think that should all be fixed now.

There is some timing to do with this module, but it is pretty simple. As long as the model is built in the rig position shown in the instructions it will work fine. The counterweight should be facing down, the rotor arm should be horizontal, and the forks should be vertical.

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@blakbird can you please have a look at my spiral lift type 2 file and see what you think?

p.s there is an image for the index as well

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@blakbird can you please have a look at my spiral lift type 2 file and see what you think?

Looks like a good start but still a long way to go. It needs the input hopper, the output ramp, the roller guides at the top and bottom, the top rails, and of course the tracks. I can't see whether or not there should be another set of sprockets in the middle based on the video, but it would make sense for them to be there because there does not appear to be a physical connection between the upper 3 tracks and the lower 3 tracks.

p.s there is an image for the index as well

The folder is not yet public so I can't access the image. In any case, I would only post the thumbnail image once the file is complete and looks like the final Akiyuki module.

Thanks for the help!

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HELP NEEDED

I finished building the zig-zag lift last night and it is a complete disaster. It doesn't work at all. The ball doesn't even get started in the lift, and if you force it to start, then it just jams at every level. The slider in back is not supported well enough to remain vertical so it tips and gets stuck. The output ramp works though!

I am a bit burned out on this so I am looking for volunteers to build the model and see if you can figure out what to do to make it work. Perhaps there is a good reason this module doesn't appear in any of Akiyuki's recent layouts. I have a draft copy of the instructions for use by those who want to help. Please only volunteer if you are serious about building the model and helping to figure out the problems, not just to get an advance copy of the instructions.

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HELP NEEDED

I finished building the zig-zag lift last night and it is a complete disaster. It doesn't work at all. The ball doesn't even get started in the lift, and if you force it to start, then it just jams at every level. The slider in back is not supported well enough to remain vertical so it tips and gets stuck. The output ramp works though!

I am a bit burned out on this so I am looking for volunteers to build the model and see if you can figure out what to do to make it work. Perhaps there is a good reason this module doesn't appear in any of Akiyuki's recent layouts. I have a draft copy of the instructions for use by those who want to help. Please only volunteer if you are serious about building the model and helping to figure out the problems, not just to get an advance copy of the instructions.

Well I've just finished that one with ramp and all it works really well and never jams but that's my version, I can take a look if you want.

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Instructions for Akiyuki's Basket Shooter are now tested and complete and are available here along with a Brickstore parts list.

  • 131 pages
  • 2226 parts
640x480.jpg

Most of the credit for reverse engineering this module goes to djm who did the work and made draft instructions. I simply took the final step of reformatting the instructions to be consistent with the others.

Next to the ball factory, this factory is the most finicky and tricky to get right. The first problem I encountered was with the springs. I decided to use dark gray shocks from 8880 because I happened to have some. When I finished the first module, the balls shot a meter over the top of the backboard and across the room. According to Bricklink, there are only 3 types of 9.5L shocks: extra hard (like from 8110, easy to identify as black and yellow), hard (like from 8466, easy to identify dual rate spring), and soft (everything else). It turns out this is not true. There is more than one kind of soft spring, and they are nearly indistinguishable. Older versions have 1 more coil. Simply using black is not good enough because old versions of black have the stiffer spring. Sadly, this means that there is no way to you are ordering the right shock from Bricklink. Your safest bet is to get new parts since they are likely to be the latest (softest) design. Once the right shock is in place, it works well. Then you can use the adjustment system to fix the aim. However, there is a LOT of variation shot to shot. Just because you think you have it adjusted doesn't mean the next shot will go in. I find that about 50% accuracy is the best I can get. This is actually OK because it is fun to watch the balls roll back down and start again. Finally, I have noticed some changes over time. My copy has been assembled for about a week. At first all 3 triggers worked great. Now, for some reason, the yellow trigger does not retract far enough which results in the lifted ball not dropping into the cup and instead launching out the back of the module. So far I have not been able to discover why this is happening.

With all that being said, this module is awesome. People love to watch it. On the surface it looks so simple like a big smooth gray box, but then you lift the top off and can see how much is going on inside.

There is a considerable amount of timing to set. Within each trigger, the lift needs to be timed to lift a ball when the cup is retracted and can receive one. Between triggers, I tried to get the timing set so there was a uniform amount of time between each actuation for a continuous cadence of launches. Strictly speaking this is not required, but not doing this step could result in simultaneous launches and ball collisions. Spacing the timing out evenly also evens the demand on the motor.

As previously discussed, I added my own motor mount to this module which accomplishes a couple of things:

  • Adds a clutch which prevents destruction of the module when running backward
  • Makes the polarity direction consistent with all the other modules
  • Moves the motor inside the frame so that it cannot be bumped while hanging out

As mentioned by djm, this module has changed quite a bit over the years. The instructions represent an interim state between Akiyuki's original and the most recent. The primary changes that could be made to bring this module up to date are elimination of the baseplate and conversion to a retractable control panel.

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