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17 hours ago, Ankoku said:

It is a beast isn't it!

Sure is! But very fun to build. I will also try to build an air compressor in the same ‘Akiyuki style’.

7 hours ago, 9v system said:

wow nice work

Thanks!

Edited by Juroen

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Just finished building the Catch & Release machine and obviously, there are a few changes from the Akiyuki version.

Below is images of the Akiyuki version between 2011 and 2016.

2011:

640x494.jpg

 

2012:

640x452.jpg

 

2013:

800x931.jpg

 

2016:

640x692.jpg

 

So, as you can see, it has changed a bit over the years.

The gearing moved from one side to the other, gear choice changes and a ratchet added.

This is reflected in the instructions provided here.

That said, there is additional stuff added to the catch and release arms.

It mainly adds symmetry but also adds weight.

I am wonder what people think to those additions? Does it make the machine run more reliably?

Edited by Ankoku

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Just noticed, with the instructions, the arms are each offset by 90 degrees.

In all of the Akiyuki versions, the first two are offset by 180 degrees. Then the middle two are offset 90 and the last two are offset by 180 degrees again.

I think this keeps with the balancing, but provides clearer distinctions between the arms in terms of visual appearance as they run.

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hi all

i have just finished the crane loader but im having a lot of friction in it when running, is there anyone here who has built it and can point me to areas where there could be friction?

thanks

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46 minutes ago, 9v system said:

hi all

i have just finished the crane loader but im having a lot of friction in it when running, is there anyone here who has built it and can point me to areas where there could be friction?

thanks

An epic & complex build, your post might be better placed in the GBC Train thread.

I am currently trying to come up with an alternative version that is less complex and uses less parts but with same input & ouput layout.

Edited by Doug72

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17 hours ago, Ankoku said:

So, as you can see, it has changed a bit over the years.

The gearing moved from one side to the other, gear choice changes and a ratchet added.

This is reflected in the instructions provided here.

That said, there is additional stuff added to the catch and release arms.

It mainly adds symmetry but also adds weight.

I am wonder what people think to those additions? Does it make the machine run more reliably?

Not sure why all the changes

Here's mine, that I built before Blakbird did the instructions:

https://bricksafe.com/pages/rbeckett/gbc-stuff/catch-and-release

I've since re-modified mine a couple of times (output chute is no longer panels)
and for a short time, it had a recirculating option, where you could direct any balls that the first arm picked up, back into the input, which allowed balls to hang around a bit longer - since it's such an efficient module, sometimes you don't get to see it in action!

I have no idea why it has the ratchet modification, as mine runs perfectly fine forwards or backwards!

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The ratchet is an Akiyuki addition and I too have no idea why it is there. I will probably just remove it.

I am wondering about changing the gearing to a worm cog. I can get the ratio to within 1 and it might smooth out the motion a bit.

Also wondering about putting counter weights on the grabbers. Doubt they will stick, since it takes away from the aesthetics and makes it look overly complex. That said, I am just curious about if it can be made smoother.

 

I also noticed that the crank shaft alignment is different to Akiyuki's. e.g. his is 1 = 0°, 2 = 180°, 3 = 270°, 4 = 450°. (Degrees are to indication position, not amount moved.)

In the instructions, it is 1 = 0°, 2 = 90°, 3 = 180°, 4 = 270°. This creates a wave, appearance, but also periods where the on the left are in basically the same position, whilst the two on the right are in a similar, but opposite position.

Spent some time looking into the most favourable configurations in Inline 4 cylinder engines, but they are usually only ever set 180° from each other. e.g. 1 = 0°, 2 = 180°, 3 = 180°, 4 = 0°

From a balance / vibration point of view, I don't think it matters at the speed it runs at. So it is more about appearance. The wave formation is pretty, but you don't get as much distinction.

 

My first real change though, will most likely be trying to brace the wall supporting the grabbers. It wobbles a bit, which I think could be reduced.

 

I also dislike how one end of the offload shoot just flops around, not fixed to anything.

Thanks for the images!

I have already replaced the Technic Bush 1/2 Smooth with normal size black Technic Bush on the grabber arms.

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I will post new pics of it's current look....

I was having issues with the grabbers landing precisely over the studs, so I added 2 linear actuators, so I can fine-tune their positioning

 

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Arranged it in the same formation as Akiyuki does it and it is smoother.

The whole system suffers from what all 4 cylinder systems suffer from. Lack of overlap.

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unless it's my blue one.. then the ones that others have used, are either for decoration, or fine tuning of individual arms.

(they use them on the arms themselves)

Mine has them behind the main structure, and tilt all four arms at once

again, this is one of my most reliable modules.. I've done at least 7-8 shows with it, over the last few years.. it happily runs all day!

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Hello all.  Interesting to drop back into my own thread after all this time and see what has been going on.  I've been away too long and have forgotten some things so I'm hoping someone here can help me out.  I recently disassembled my original Train/Crane module.  This is the huge one with the crane that lifts the hopper off the train to fill it.  When I first built this module I had problems with the little train.  The structure wasn't very strong and it tended to come apart when under stress from driving the crane.  Someone came up with a stronger version (possibly derived from an Akiyuki later version) than what I used in my original instructions and I converted my build to this newer design which was much better.  Sadly, I cannot find any record of who made that improvement or where the instructions for the updated version are.  I know they existed at one time because I used them to make my conversion.  Anyone remember or can provide a link?

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1 hour ago, Blakbird said:

Hello all.  Interesting to drop back into my own thread after all this time and see what has been going on.  I've been away too long and have forgotten some things so I'm hoping someone here can help me out.  I recently disassembled my original Train/Crane module.  This is the huge one with the crane that lifts the hopper off the train to fill it.  When I first built this module I had problems with the little train.  The structure wasn't very strong and it tended to come apart when under stress from driving the crane.  Someone came up with a stronger version (possibly derived from an Akiyuki later version) than what I used in my original instructions and I converted my build to this newer design which was much better.  Sadly, I cannot find any record of who made that improvement or where the instructions for the updated version are.  I know they existed at one time because I used them to make my conversion.  Anyone remember or can provide a link?

i have been able to update the train car the the latest version with the L motor that akiyuki uses, it solves the power problem with the crane too, i will take some photos of it and post them here

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1 hour ago, Blakbird said:

Hello all.  Interesting to drop back into my own thread after all this time and see what has been going on.  I've been away too long and have forgotten some things so I'm hoping someone here can help me out.  I recently disassembled my original Train/Crane module.  This is the huge one with the crane that lifts the hopper off the train to fill it.  When I first built this module I had problems with the little train.  The structure wasn't very strong and it tended to come apart when under stress from driving the crane.  Someone came up with a stronger version (possibly derived from an Akiyuki later version) than what I used in my original instructions and I converted my build to this newer design which was much better.  Sadly, I cannot find any record of who made that improvement or where the instructions for the updated version are.  I know they existed at one time because I used them to make my conversion.  Anyone remember or can provide a link?

Nice to see you posting again in the thread that brought us all so much joy! :sweet:

Not sure if I got the right answer to your question, but I do know that between posting your original instructions (2016) and Akiyuki's latest train module (2018), there was an improved version that Akiyuki first presented at Brickfest 2017 => GBC Train (electrical switch type). Personally I never built that one (still have the older one), but it was Laurent/Courbet who created the building instructions for that version. It's on page 39 of this thread. Again, not sure if that's what you're looking for...

 

 

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Yeah, for me, it isn't about reliability in that respect. I just like them running smooth as can be.

I am guessing, the linear actuator placed where you say, helps with the wobble of the supporting frame as well.

Might be worth bringing the issue up in the Akiyuki Train GBC thread. That is where most of the train guys are!

 

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3 minutes ago, Lego_GBC_NL said:

Not sure if I got the right answer to your question, but I do know that between posting your original instructions (2016) and Akiyuki's latest train module (2018), there was an improved version that Akiyuki first presented at Brickfest 2017 => GBC Train (electrical switch type). Personally I never built that one (still have the older one), but it was Laurent/Courbet who created the building instructions for that version. It's on page 39 of this thread. Again, not sure if that's what you're looking for...

Thanks, but sadly that's not the one.  The one I'm looking for is much older.  It is not studless, just a slightly modified version of the original.  The reason I'm looking for it is so that I can rebuild my parts back into the train.  I didn't realize I had lost the instructions for it when I took it apart.

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On 11/18/2018 at 10:42 AM, Juroen said:

Sure is! But very fun to build. I will also try to build an air compressor in the same ‘Akiyuki style’.

Thanks!

Nice start! I'm following your progress on the Ball Cleaner with great expectations! :sweet: This has always been one of my favorite Akiyuki "machines" as indeed it's a "beast" combining GBC, EV3, pneumatics and electrical functionalities. If you finish it and get it running reliably, consider me one of the first to build it (if building instructions would be made available) :wink: Got lots of spare parts lying around, waiting to be used for a fantastic module such as the Ball Cleaner (EV3 set, air tubes/hoses, valves, pumps, other pneumatic parts such as the pressure gauge/manometer). Even got two pieces of part # 4692 (Technic Pneumatic Distribution Block 2 x 4) that Akiyuki used :tongue:

4692.png

Was wondering about the air compressor though. I believe I read somewhere in the comments on YouTube that Akiyuki used an external (non-Lego) air compressor to get the Ball Cleaner working. As a Lego purist, I would of course prefer to have everything 100% made out of Lego, but will it be feasible with regards to the Ball Cleaner? How big would a Lego air compressor need to be to constantly provide sufficient air input (how many motors, how many pneumatic pumps)? I don't have enough knowledge/experience with pneumatics, but perhaps others can shine a light on stuff like air pressure, psi and bar.

Out of curiosity: how many of these air compressors made by Quanix would be needed (8 pumps / 2 XL PF motors)?

 

 

Edited by Lego_GBC_NL

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3 hours ago, Blakbird said:

Hello all.  Interesting to drop back into my own thread after all this time and see what has been going on.  I've been away too long and have forgotten some things so I'm hoping someone here can help me out.  I recently disassembled my original Train/Crane module.  This is the huge one with the crane that lifts the hopper off the train to fill it.  When I first built this module I had problems with the little train.  The structure wasn't very strong and it tended to come apart when under stress from driving the crane.  Someone came up with a stronger version (possibly derived from an Akiyuki later version) than what I used in my original instructions and I converted my build to this newer design which was much better.  Sadly, I cannot find any record of who made that improvement or where the instructions for the updated version are.  I know they existed at one time because I used them to make my conversion.  Anyone remember or can provide a link?

After a whole lot of sifting through Google search results, I found it.  It is by Brian Alano.  It is very much like the original Akiyuki train motor but with some additional strengthening.  I have no idea how I found it originally.  I worked really well though so I recommend it.

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6 hours ago, Blakbird said:

After a whole lot of sifting through Google search results, I found it.  It is by Brian Alano.  It is very much like the original Akiyuki train motor but with some additional strengthening.  I have no idea how I found it originally.  I worked really well though so I recommend it.

Hi @Blakbird The Type 2 tain motor car is much better :

See the seperate GBC Train thread for further improvements & modification to the Akiyuki train system, which is now much more reliable now especicially for the elevator / rotary dumper modules.

 

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10 hours ago, 9v system said:

@Blakbird here are some photos of the train 

1280x960.jpg

Which 2L connector are you using inside the red driving ring.
A ribbed or a plain 2L connector ?

A ribbed one requires a lot of force to move.

Edited by Doug72

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