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21 minutes ago, Blakbird said:

I've updated the first post with all the latest pictures and links.

the presentation topic link doesnt go to my review i did on the zig zag stairs?

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19 hours ago, 9v system said:

the presentation topic link doesnt go to my review i did on the zig zag stairs?

No, the presentation topic isn't for a review, it's for presenting the instructions.  Courbet's post is where the instructions are presented.  I guess it was easier back when I was doing all the instructions to all the presentation topics were my own posts.  It is a bit more convoluted now.

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6 hours ago, Blakbird said:

No, the presentation topic isn't for a review, it's for presenting the instructions.  Courbet's post is where the instructions are presented.  I guess it was easier back when I was doing all the instructions to all the presentation topics were my own posts.  It is a bit more convoluted now.

ah ok things make sense now, but maybe you could add it under the presentation topic link so people can find a good review on the module.

Edited by 9v system

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Hi thanks in advance for the great work just one question 

has anyone tried to do ball factory??

done most of it but having a lot of problems with finishing it

had some with building instructions in some part where a bit of

trying to do this with my kid and thinking invite more I could chew

any help would be appreciated 

thanks

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On 8/15/2017 at 4:32 AM, 9v system said:

did some Akiyuki module testing today. all three modules worked really well as you can see the cup to cup has the new drive

 

Can you tell me what part you used for the cups on the cup to cup module? 

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21 hours ago, Scarfacetuga said:

as anyone tried to do ball factory??

done most of it but having a lot of problems with finishing i

Hello,

At which part(s) you do have problems to build?

I have build the Ball Factroy twice now, without any problems. The Timing and continous running is the most difficult part.

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18 hours ago, 9v system said:

@Courbet what other modules are in the making? would like to see more of super fins modules done

Nothing at the moment. Regarding Superfin, I thought it was your turn to present us how to build the Step Tower module. Maybe I missed it?

By the way I second Boulderer's question, what cup part did you use in your Cup to Cup module?

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Hello,

1 Mark & 1,5 Question. In the picture of the Unloader V2, I see 2 different shock absorbers, am I right or does it not matter, using 1 hard and 1 extra hard? Is it also possible to use the shorter ones? I ask because the large shock are very expansive to buy and not avaible at Lego, the short are cheaper and available.

Hopefully you can read my English, with kind regards, Arthur

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1 hour ago, Excal1bur said:

Hello,

1 Mark & 1,5 Question. In the picture of the Unloader V2, I see 2 different shock absorbers, am I right or does it not matter, using 1 hard and 1 extra hard? Is it also possible to use the shorter ones? I ask because the large shock are very expansive to buy and not avaible at Lego, the short are cheaper and available.

Hopefully you can read my English, with kind regards, Arthur

Although Akiyuki used two extra-hard and ultra-expensive shocks, one hard and one extra-hard were all I had at hand when I built my replica. It's obviously better to use two of the same kind but not that crucial. The unloader will also work with 2 soft ones (black or dark grey, much cheaper than yellow ones) - it still works without any shock at all actually!

Using shorter shocks might be possible although I don't see a way to do this easily.

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Just now, Courbet said:

Although Akiyuki used two extra-hard and ultra-expensive shocks, one hard and one extra-hard were all I had at hand when I built my replica. It's obviously better to use two of the same kind but not that crucial. The unloader will also work with 2 soft ones (black or dark grey, much cheaper than yellow ones) - it still works without any shock at all actually!

Using shorter shocks might be possible although I don't see a way to do this easily.

As always, MERCI!! Courbet, for this usefull help.

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My version of the Cup to Cup using turntables. The only brick that is the same with the Akiyuki version is the cup itself and nothing else.

37626974056_2285a9d03e_b.jpg

37626976236_124d763035_b.jpg

37626974056_2285a9d03e_b.jpg

Edited by Berthil
Added photos

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Neat as always, Berthil, but not cheap to replicate!
The way the turntables are fixed to the frame is very original.

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3 hours ago, Courbet said:

Neat as always, Berthil, but not cheap to replicate!
The way the turntables are fixed to the frame is very original.

Thanks! And very well noticed but I guess you have checked out the Flickr foto's of the back or have you developed such skills to recognize the thickness of a neckbrace as offset to make the turntable gears intermesh from the video only? :)

Edited by Berthil

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@Courbet I would really like to see this module turned into a set of instructions

fc2_2013-10-22_19-11-08-323.jpg

6 hours ago, Berthil said:

Thanks! And very well noticed but I guess you have checked out the Flickr foto's of the back or have you developed such skills to recognize the thickness of a neckbrace as offset to make the turntable gears intermesh from the video only? :)

Berthil is there any reason as to why you have the akiyuki input part but not the black thing that connects to the next module at the end?

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9 hours ago, Berthil said:

Thanks! And very well noticed but I guess you have checked out the Flickr foto's of the back or have you developed such skills to recognize the thickness of a neckbrace as offset to make the turntable gears intermesh from the video only? :)

You're right I checked your Flickr gallery :) Your pictures are very informative, you should edit your post to add the link (and make more photos!)

About the necessary offset between turntables, did you try a studless frame using part 64179 (which you must have in large quantities now!) with only a 1/2 offset between the turntables?

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17 hours ago, Berthil said:

 The only brick that is the same with the Akiyuki version is the cup itself and nothing else.

I dunno... I think akiyuki uses those 1x9 liftarms.. and those black technic bricks... and the pins... and the tiles....

 

#smartass ;)

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7 hours ago, 9v system said:

Berthil is there any reason as to why you have the akiyuki input part but not the black thing that connects to the next module at the end?

You mean that black square? I don't like that black square, it think it looks bulky and hides the balls, I also left it out on the version 2 train.

 

3 hours ago, Courbet said:

You're right I checked your Flickr gallery :) Your pictures are very informative, you should edit your post to add the link (and make more photos!)

About the necessary offset between turntables, did you try a studless frame using part 64179 (which you must have in large quantities now!) with only a 1/2 offset between the turntables?

You're right, I have a lot of the 64179, I already did a tryout to make some kind of 3D maze out of them and use it as a 3D pinball in a new module.
I could not get the right distance with the 64179 because the distance between the turntables to intermesh is not 1/2 offset but 1/4 which can be achieved with the two neck braces.
I'll add the photos to my original post.

59 minutes ago, RohanBeckett said:

I dunno... I think akiyuki uses those 1x9 liftarms.. and those black technic bricks... and the pins... and the tiles....

You are right, I just meant the overall design is totally new and has no resemblance with any of the Akiyuki cup to cup versions apart from the cup itself :)

I like my version best of course :) looks smoother and the diameter of the turntables and overall ball travel is 7 studs instead of 3 studs of the Akiyuki version 1, for me this enhances the already nice cup to cup effect much more. The turntables enables an open structure without being cluttered with gears.

Edited by Berthil
typo

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On 10/13/2017 at 10:35 AM, Berthil said:

My version of the Cup to Cup using turntables.

Very nice interpretation!  An excellent use of newer parts to achieve the same effect, and it has the same good, clean lines as a real Akiyuki module.

On 10/13/2017 at 10:35 AM, Berthil said:

The only brick that is the same with the Akiyuki version is the cup itself and nothing else.

Nope, I see some 9L black beams in there that Akiyuki also used.  :grin:

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On 14-10-2017 at 12:50 AM, Berthil said:

Thanks! And very well noticed but I guess you have checked out the Flickr foto's of the back or have you developed such skills to recognize the thickness of a neckbrace as offset to make the turntable gears intermesh from the video only? :)

Very nice module indeed! Very clean looks, as we have become accustomed to from you :wink:

I'm just surprised that you need those neck braces to mesh the turntables. Are these the 60z or 56z turntables? I assume that you couldn't get either to mesh properly without "tricks"?

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1 hour ago, Ludo Visser said:

Very nice module indeed! Very clean looks, as we have become accustomed to from you :wink:

I'm just surprised that you need those neck braces to mesh the turntables. Are these the 60z or 56z turntables? I assume that you couldn't get either to mesh properly without "tricks"?

Thanks! Yes, a 1/2 offset achieved with 1x1 technic brick or the 1x2 with two holes did not work, it needed something between that. These are the 60 teeth turntables.

1 hour ago, Blakbird said:

Very nice interpretation!  An excellent use of newer parts to achieve the same effect, and it has the same good, clean lines as a real Akiyuki module.

Thanks! Newer parts may be but the 56 teeth turntable is already available for 13 years ;)
But indeed, the 18492 gear rack I used is available for 2 years now. My other two attempts to create it with a 64681 gear rack resulted in a somewhat jerky movement or too much friction.

Edited by Berthil

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Hi, while I realise this doesn't really fall under the "umbrella" of GBC has anybody tried reverse engineering or possibly making instructions for Akiyuki's axel sorter or 4, 5 or 6 axis robot.

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