[GBC] The Akiyuki Project (2010 - 2020)

[TheRebricker]

Looks like a good start but still a long way to go. It needs the input hopper, the output ramp, the roller guides at the top and bottom, the top rails, and of course the tracks. I can't see whether or not there should be another set of sprockets in the middle based on the video, but it would make sense for them to be there because there does not appear to be a physical connection between the upper 3 tracks and the lower 3 tracks.

Thanks for the help!

I have brick built it up to the point of the LDD file. I have made some MINOR changes, like changing a couple of occurrences of 3 plates to a brick etc or an axle to a pin. I agree, more sprockets! Likely 4 per axle for a total of 8. Top and bottom of each set of 3 tracks. Also it may need something in the center that free floats to keep the axle distance as the 32 stud axels (or any combination of joined axles) seems to bow in towards the center under the weight of the tracks. Something else I noticed, for the straight parts of the tube, since it is such a long distance across, to help keep it very straight, I inserted an axle (or axles depending on length) to keep it straight.

[9v system]

I have brick built it up to the point of the LDD file. I have made some MINOR changes, like changing a couple of occurrences of 3 plates to a brick etc or an axle to a pin. I agree, more sprockets! Likely 4 per axle for a total of 8. Top and bottom of each set of 3 tracks. Also it may need something in the center that free floats to keep the axle distance as the 32 stud axels (or any combination of joined axles) seems to bow in towards the center under the weight of the tracks. Something else I noticed, for the straight parts of the tube, since it is such a long distance across, to help keep it very straight, I inserted an axle (or axles depending on length) to keep it straight.

can you show some pictures?

and can you tell me how many tread links are needed for each level?

Edited February 20, 2016 by 9v system

[9v system]

my zigzag and invisible lift

[djm]

Finally, I have noticed some changes over time. My copy has been assembled for about a week. At first all 3 triggers worked great. Now, for some reason, the yellow trigger does not retract far enough which results in the lifted ball not dropping into the cup and instead launching out the back of the module. So far I have not been able to discover why this is happening.

Two thoughts about this;

1. I found that the bricks/plates on the top of the triggers can separate a little over time. I found this out a couple of times during my test building. It would effect the trigger's aim/distance. The separation isn't necessarily visible unless you remove the "lower ramp". The resolution is to squeeze the bricks/plates together again.
   
2. if the up/down control (as opposed to the left/right control) is wound too far "up" it prevents the cup from going down as far as required, flicking the ball backwards rather than forwards.. The resolution is to alter the up/down controller a little in the down direction.
   

Neither may be applicable for your build.

If it is correct to assume that Philo provided the LDraw work for the NBA backboard part, then kudos to him. Otherwise, kudos to whomever did do the work.

Needless to say, Blakbird improved the quality of the build instructions from the original draft. My thanks go to him.

Regards,

David

Edited February 20, 2016 by djm

[Nalyd997]

Is anyone planning on doing the elevator module? If I have the time I might see what I can do on LDD

[TinkerBrick]

Regarding the balls (questions where to buy them arose earlier): I checked the TLG customer service website. They sell them for 0,81€ each. Just enter set number 41005 (Heartlake High) or Element Number 6023209 for the plain orange ball.

Edited February 20, 2016 by TinkerBrick

[Philo]

If it is correct to assume that Philo provided the LDraw work for the NBA backboard part, then kudos to him.

Thanks! Was an easy one ;)

[TheRebricker]

can you show some pictures?

and can you tell me how many tread links are needed for each level?

I didn't have enough track to do the full height so I went back to the half height model 3 tracks high. There are 38 links per level. I now have the mechanics working as well as the support wheels at the top and bottom placed. The ramp to the left of the hopper also. I DONT have enough to correct length tube though to finish but should be able to post pictures later.

[Blakbird]

my zigzag and invisible lift

Thanks for the video. This answer some questions about the connection between the input hopper and the indexer, but I'm still not sure why your vertical section works and mine doesn't

Two thoughts about this;

1. I found that the bricks/plates on the top of the triggers can separate a little over time. I found this out a couple of times during my test building. It would effect the trigger's aim/distance. The separation isn't necessarily visible unless you remove the "lower ramp". The resolution is to squeeze the bricks/plates together again.
   
2. if the up/down control (as opposed to the left/right control) is wound too far "up" it prevents the cup from going down as far as required, flicking the ball backwards rather than forwards.. The resolution is to alter the up/down controller a little in the down direction
   

I thought about both of things and tried them but they were only partially successful. The answer came to me as a surprise like the discovery of penicillin. I hooked up a battery box instead of a train regulator and accidentally ran it backwards for a moment. Once I noticed and reversed the polarity, now it works fine again! Apparently something had become slightly bent or twisted, and reversing the direction put in back in place.

[Eigenbroetler]

A question for the "team" about the Basket Shooter module. I finished building it this weekend and tried it out. There is no specific motor mounting in the instructions right now, but it can obviously just be plugged in to the left side of the module. The problem is that every single other Akiyuki module runs with the same polarity (regulator switch clockwise) but this module runs with the opposite polarity and will destroy itself if you try to run it the same as the others. It also runs too fast when driven directly from the motor and bogs down. I came up with a simple remote mounting for the motor that gears it down, adds a clutch, and reverses direction so it runs the same way as every other module. However, this is not the Akiyuki design. Should I include this as baseline in the instructions?

To be fair, Akiyuki's later changes shown in the bottom view also have a remotely mounted motor with a clutch, so I'm not too far off what he ended up doing.

Im probably being slow, or have missed something, but why cant you just switch polarity by rotating the connecting cable "brick" on the regulator? then all switches can be turned clockwise?

Seems like its a simple solution, but i bet i have missed something here...

Please enlighten me!

[RohanBeckett]

on the reversing-fixing thing...

I need to find a mechanism/gearbox, that would detect a jam.. and run in reverse for a second or so.. and then forward again..

Would help SO many temperamental GBC's that often jam a ball here and there...

Im probably being slow, or have missed something, but why cant you just switch polarity by rotating the connecting cable "brick" on the regulator? then all switches can be turned clockwise?

Can't do that with power functions motors... you need a pole reversing switch-cable.

and honestly.. it's usually not that hard to put another gear somewhere in the drive-train, which eliminates the need for reversing switches...

[Eigenbroetler]

on the reversing-fixing thing...

I need to find a mechanism/gearbox, that would detect a jam.. and run in reverse for a second or so.. and then forward again..

Would help SO many temperamental GBC's that often jam a ball here and there...

Can't do that with power functions motors... you need a pole reversing switch-cable.

and honestly.. it's usually not that hard to put another gear somewhere in the drive-train, which eliminates the need for reversing switches...

Then please let me know how you connect the PF motor to the old 9V regulator, (adaptercable/extension cable) and i bet it has the same old "turn it 90 degrees and polarity is swithed" even with PF motors.

In fact i am trying it right now, and it works like a charm.

I can make a video of it if you want me to :)

Or maybe try it for yourself...

Edited February 21, 2016 by Eigenbroetler

[RohanBeckett]

Yes.. I know that you use an extension cable for the first initial connection..

but what if you want to run 3 GBC modules at the end of the extension lead? (stacked PF connectors)

you can't use the rotate trick, as you'll 'fix' the wrong-turning motor.. and reverse all the others!

I still believe it's better to just decide on an initial input-rotation standard (eg: clockwise) for all GBC's... and ensure that they are all designed to run at full power... life is easier then!

[Mogwai]

Hi , i build the fork and i think this steps are better for working

Page 19 Step 11 = add 1x 32184 (Axle and Pin Connector Perpendicular 3L with Center Pin Hole) (missing in this Step)

Page 27 Step 16 = not 4x Plate 1x2 , use 2x Brick 1x2

Page 46 Step 23 = not 2x 13 Liftarm , use 2x 11 Liftarm (the balls roll better down)

at the top of the liftarm use only 1x Pin with Frictions at the Axle and Pin Connector Perpendicular 3L with 2 Pin Holes)

[Blakbird]

Page 19 Step 11 = add 1x 32184 (Axle and Pin Connector Perpendicular 3L with Center Pin Hole) (missing in this Step)

Oops, it looks like the entire Step 13 was missing. Looks like I had an error in my LPub meta commands that was causing this. I will fix it.

Page 27 Step 16 = not 4x Plate 1x2 , use 2x Brick 1x2

This is an actual design change that will decrease the slope of the ramp slightly. I agree with your change because it eliminates a small step between the ramp and the fingers.

Page 46 Step 23 = not 2x 13 Liftarm , use 2x 11 Liftarm (the balls roll better down)

at the top of the liftarm use only 1x Pin with Frictions at the Axle and Pin Connector Perpendicular 3L with 2 Pin Holes)

I'm not sure about this one. I don't have any problem with the balls rolling down. Also, there is no hinge in the ramp in this direction so switching to 11L liftarms will actually stress the parts in order to force them to connect at a lower point. I think I will leave this one up to the builder.

Thanks for the detailed comments! I will upload an updated version of the file later today.

I still believe it's better to just decide on an initial input-rotation standard (eg: clockwise) for all GBC's... and ensure that they are all designed to run at full power... life is easier then!

Agreed. Yes, it is certainly possible to rotate the connector if you are using the train regulator with an adapter cable, but it was also possible to simply rotate the dial on the regulator the other way to fix the problem. The issue is still the same: this module is different than the others which can cause confusion. In an ideal setup, the all connect the same way.

[Mogwai]

Mhm , i have problem with the small step between the ramp and balls roll down .

i think is a problem how many balls are there ? i use only 50 balls and many stay at the small step and at the ramp .

more balls evtl. ignore this ?

but this is individual for the builder :-) with my steps i have no Problems :-)

why stress to the part ? only 1 stud correction down :-)

Edited February 22, 2016 by Mogwai

[Blakbird]

Mhm , i have problem with the small step between the ramp and balls roll down .

i think is a problem how many balls are there ? i use only 50 balls and many stay at the small step and at the ramp .

more balls evtl. ignore this ?

I find that this module works best with less than 20 balls. With more than that the fingers tend to jam because the extra balls cannot get out of the way.

[9v system]

@blackbird how did you go with the zig zag? have you got it to work yet?

[Blakbird]

@blackbird how did you go with the zig zag? have you got it to work yet?

No, I haven't received any feedback about the tower yet. That is the part that doesn't work.

[Blakbird]

Sigh. I finally figured out the problem with the zigzag lift. Turns out I am an idiot. The 1x2x2 trans clear panels I used for the slider have side supports. The side supports block the balls and jam the mechanism. I should have used the older smooth type. I will make sure the parts list reflects the correct parts.

[redoak]

Sigh. I finally figured out the problem with the zigzag lift. Turns out I am an idiot. The 1x2x2 trans clear panels I used for the slider have side supports. The side supports block the balls and jam the mechanism. I should have used the older smooth type. I will make sure the parts list reflects the correct parts.

No idiot only human, thanks for all the good work.

Edited February 23, 2016 by redoak

[9v system]

@blakbird a good idea for showcasing these modules is to do a video of your version running as well as akiyukis

[Mogwai]

Uff , i have build the Basket Shooter and nice work .

Only a little problem with this module .

My M-Motor(s) work 2-3 Min. correct and slower,slower,stop .

Temp of the motor is a little warm , not hot.

wait 1-2 Min. and start again , work correct and slower,slower,stop.

I replace the M-Motor with the L-Motor and no problem´s .

i think the L-Motor have more Power (torque) ?

[Blakbird]

On 2/23/2016 at 10:06 PM, 9v system said:

@blakbird a good idea for showcasing these modules is to do a video of your version running as well as akiyukis

You may have noticed that I've never posted a video before. The reason for this is that I have no way of making one. Sorry!

After updating the panels and making some adjustments to the ramp between the input hopper and the tower, the zig-zag lift now works very well. The only remaining issue I would like to solve before releasing the instructions is the indexer. While the indexer kind of works, the finger at the end of it (the 2x4 black liftarm in the image) is too blunt and is more likely to sit on top of the balls than actually separate them. I can't see what Akiyuki used from his video. Has anyone else tried and what did you use?

On 2/24/2016 at 7:04 AM, Mogwai said:

Uff , i have build the Basket Shooter and nice work .

Only a little problem with this module .

My M-Motor(s) work 2-3 Min. correct and slower,slower,stop .

Temp of the motor is a little warm , not hot.

wait 1-2 Min. and start again , work correct and slower,slower,stop.

I replace the M-Motor with the L-Motor and no problem´s .

i think the L-Motor have more Power (torque) ?

Interesting. I have had no problems at all with the M-motor, even running for an hour at a time. I would suggest checking your build for friction. However, feel free to use the L-motor if that works better.

[9v system]

You may have noticed that I've never posted a video before. The reason for this is that I have no way of making one. Sorry!

After updating the panels and making some adjustments to the ramp between the input hopper and the tower, the zig-zag lift now works very well. The only remaining issue I would like to solve before releasing the instructions is the indexer. While the indexer kind of works, the finger at the end of it (the 2x4 black liftarm in the image) is too blunt and is more likely to sit on top of the balls than actually separate them. I can't see what Akiyuki used from his video. Has anyone else tried and what did you use?

He used a 1x2 beam with bar