brunojj1

[MOC] BMW M4 DTM 1:10 racecar with PF

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This model combined with your history of building great MOCs deserves technic_pro.png

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You might be kidding :cry_happy: ?? Or are you in generous mood today because the sun is shining :grin: ? Honestly, next to Kyrill (desert752) I feel kind of tiny and there are MOCers out there far better than me...

Anyway THANK YOU!

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I think you both deserve it equally :wink:

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Almost there at the finish :classic: , some 30 pages to go.

Any change of modification with Sbrick? :wink: You never know...............

If you´d like to put in Sbrick or two of them, it shouldn´t be too complicated. If using 2 Sbricks and power it by the 2 batteries in the trunk (which would be pretty enough anyway), simply replace the 2 IR receivers at the rear and leave out the third battery. As in my previous example I used the battery on the passenger´s side and left the trunk empty. Remove the shown axle connector and attach the Sbrick this way:

51.jpg52.png

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Thanks for the response. Will finish this first as it is my first build after 30 years :laugh:

Will have to sort out the wiring first, already working tough.

Keep up that work my friend, AWESOME :classic:

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This BMW really is awesome - I recently built (and changed...) Lipko's wonderful RS5 DTM, and plan to build this BMW M4 body on top of that chassis. For now, I'm trying to get a Mercedes Benz C63 DTM pieced together. Work in progress (as is the RS5 in yellow/green).. :D

Thanks all for the inspiration!

dtm01.jpg

dtm02.jpg

dtm03.jpg

dtm04.jpg

dtm05.jpg

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@bastet: I am really interested in that Mercedes, it would be awesome to have full DTM lineup. I can't say I am loving your yellow-green-with-white/orange-accents, fuller bodywork version of Lipkos Audi RS5 but it certainly is interesting and that color combination adds a bit of uniqueness to it. For me yellow works best for BMW M4. On the other hand - I can't wait to see the final result for that Mercedes C63, white/black seems to suit the car very nicely. However, I think you should create your own topic for showcasing your DTM lineup to avoid taking attention from Brunos BMW M4 - I am pretty sure there are many DTM fans to appreciate such topic :)

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Finally Jaap managed to make high quality stickers for all cars, except for the black BMW Bank version which wasn´t asked by anybody so far. But if there will be enough requests, he can do them as well.

They can be ordered here: http://www.jaaptechn...-3d-design.html

stickers.jpg

In between the brickshelf file hasn´t been moderated for some weeks, I don´t know for what reason. Maybe I should reorganize it..

Edited by brunojj1

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I am building this model right now and have run into a problem. The batteries in the back don't quite fit because they interfere with the tail light mounts. I have to pry the fenders apart to make them fit. Is this correct? I can post a picture if it would help.

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I am building this model right now and have run into a problem. The batteries in the back don't quite fit because they interfere with the tail light mounts. I have to pry the fenders apart to make them fit. Is this correct? I can post a picture if it would help.

The spacing for the batteries is very tight, but they should fit. At the fender´s double angular beams at the bottom there might be a very little bending apart. But the tail light mounts above (you mean LED mounts?) shouldn´t collide with the batteries if they are installed the right way around. I´m still not sure if the instructions are correct to 100%. Please post the picture.

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The spacing for the batteries is very tight, but they should fit. At the fender´s double angular beams at the bottom there might be a very little bending apart. But the tail light mounts above (you mean LED mounts?) shouldn´t collide with the batteries if they are installed the right way around. I´m still not sure if the instructions are correct to 100%. Please post the picture.

It is the LED mounts. I suspect the LDraw file is not quite the same as the real model. You can see the interference in the picture below:

640x389.jpg

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@Backbird. I'm also building this fantastic MOC and i have the exact same problems. The LED mounts is pressing the red rear lights parts away, it falls off sometimes. But no big deal.

@brunojj1. I would also thank you very much for this MOC and Instructions. Its actually the first Lego Technic model i build after 20 years. I really enjoy the build! I post pictures when i have finished.

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It is the LED mounts. I suspect the LDraw file is not quite the same as the real model. You can see the interference in the picture below:

@Backbird. I'm also building this fantastic MOC and i have the exact same problems. The LED mounts is pressing the red rear lights parts away, it falls off sometimes. But no big deal.

@brunojj1. I would also thank you very much for this MOC and Instructions. Its actually the first Lego Technic model i build after 20 years. I really enjoy the build! I post pictures when i have finished.

Sorry for the inconveniences and my "dirty" building style with some pragmatic tecniques going beyond laws of straight geometry :wink: ! There might occur a few more during the build ...

I hope you enjoy it anyway and the end result will satisfy. For my next MOC if there will be any instructions, I would try to be more careful.

Unfortunately my model is disassembled now and I can´t check these issue. Here is a picture with the trunk open:

007.jpg

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When I built this model I left out the RC Components so I didn't have this particular problem. I did find a few other parts of the build around the doors that didn't seem to fit the way the instructions implied. Some minor modifications were necessary in a few spots.

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I had this problem too. I solved it by replacing one of the thin 1x3 liftarms with a 1x2 liftarm (on both sides of the car).

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I had this problem too. I solved it by replacing one of the thin 1x3 liftarms with a 1x2 liftarm (on both sides of the car).

I did something similar. I just removed one of the 1x3 liftarms and used a 1/2 bushing.

Unfortunately my model is disassembled now and I can´t check these issue. Here is a picture with the trunk open:

From your picture I can see a few other differences in the way the rear was built, especially around the tail lights. I found that the lid will not close without pushing the LEDs out of the way. Having seen your picture, I now know how to fix it!

The rest of the car is done except for the roof and flex hoses. I'll report back with my impressions.

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I finished building this car last weekend. It is really beautiful to behold! I originally planned to build it with no Power Functions except for the lights, but I was only on the first couple of steps when I changed my mind and had to go steal a bunch of PF components from other models to keep building. I used pneumatic hose from McMaster Carr for the flex hoses and it worked really well.

One thing that has not been highlighted in the previous discussion is the accurate full roll cage included. You can't really see it once the roof it on. The roof actually just perches atop the roll cage and is only connected by flex hoses.

I can't believe I am about to say this, but this car may actually be too fast! Because of the limitations of PF IR controllers, it is not safe to use it in the house because it is so fast that it will run into things and break. I figured it would be a lot more fun outside. It works much better outside, but you have to keep very close to it for the remote to work and that means walking pretty fast. You naturally tend to follow behind the car and this causes the line of sight to the steering receiver to be blocked by the roof. You'll be cruising along at high speed and try to turn and nothing will happen. I ran into a lot of curbs! It drives much better with the roof removed because the roll cage is open enough for the steering servo to work. The speed control remote might be better, but since the motors are on separate receivers I don't think it would be possible to synchronize them.

I think this model is the pinnacle of speed for the PF system. With 4 XL drive motors using 3 receivers and 3 battery packs, there is no current protection problem. Because the servo is on a separate battery, the model does not slow down when the steering is used. This model is a lot of fun and I highly recommend it. I was lucky enough to get a copy of the stickers and they really enhance the appearance.

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Thank you for your feedback! I enjoy your report about having fun outdoors! The unsatisfactory PF signal transmission in daylight is a fun killer though, that´s why it would be better to put in 2 Sbricks and only 2 rechargeable batteries like in Madoca´s Icarus. When you say "this model is the pinnacle of speed for the PF system" - it flatters my ego a bit :laugh: and next to creating some BMW finally the highest possible performance technically was the main goal. But anyway I think Madoca´s new car is faster which is driven "only" by 4 L motors with its highly reduced drivetrain and beeing much lighter and more compact. I don´t have the opportunity to go for a ride with both cars, maybe some collector like you who owns both of them, will do it - might be a lot of fun :thumbup: !

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I just finished Madoca's car today! Your BMW is faster, but his is easier to control with the SBrick.

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