brunojj1

[MOC] BMW M4 DTM 1:10 racecar with PF

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My experience with building such large MOCs is that you should try to start with a set for most of the parts.

Rebrickable can help you find a set that covers most of the parts.

Prices of loose parts on BL are on average double the price of parts in sets.

When I have most of the parts collected using sets I look for the cheapest combination for the rest on BL using Brickficiency:

http://www.buildingo...ickficiency.php

Saves you a lot of time and comes up with the best possibilities given you constraints (# of shops, location, condition (new/used).

Yeah, the €200 ballpark for 80% of the parts was just one shop, and all used parts, another shop got me above €600, but they only sell new, price high, and probably included a whole bunch of PF parts as well

Ill definitely look into brickficiency, and good deals on sets as part packs if i decide to build something like this, i do have some spares myself, but i tend to keep my larger sets intact

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Instructions have been fixed for all models. Sorry that the mentionned 3 PF options are not clearly shown there, but with a bit creativity the car can be reduced to the medium or minimum option which will still function. The corresponding gear reduction is shown as A - B - C.

There are 4 different DTM cars now and it should be more than enough as a tribute for this racecar :wink: . Last but not least here is another version with a nice colour variation from Thorsten which I like very much. Maybe somebody is willing to modify the car to an Audi or Mercedes with some changes at the bodywork as proposed by Thorsten or make a full manual car with transmission, V8 engine, manual steering or whatsoever.

Instructions can be downloaded for free here: http://rebrickable.com/mocs/Thorsten50/bmw-m4-dtm-samsung

42_maxime_martin.jpg

This is a driver from Belgium - Maxime Martin who finished 7th in last season. Hopefully the whole BMW M4 fleet will accomplish better this year!

43_maxime-martin.jpg

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Can you tell how fast this car is with the 4 XL motors?

Not really fast, especially for the given heavy weight, but pretty enough for indoor what the PF system is supposed to be (enough to damage the car´s bumpers sometimes :grin: ). And obviously it´s not 4 x faster than only with 1 x XL motor ! It depends particularly on the batteries, the gearing and IR receivers (V1 or V2) .

Here is a short video to demonstrate it: http://www.brickshel...wm4dtmsmall.mp4

Edited by brunojj1

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Hi, i rebuilt your car.

Buti cant fix the Receiver for the Stearingwheels.

It s not enaugh Space. The Receiver Is to high. Did You change anything?

I Need help

Greets Holgerpost-155062-0-31376600-1455747179_thumb.jpeg

post-155062-0-53252700-1455747189_thumb.jpeg

Edited by Hohag

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When I was building this model I needed to make few modifications because some things simply weren't fitting or looked a bit misplaced (it was quite tricky for that front receiver, it doesn't seem to fit in there at all - I ended up with creating some so sort locking mechanism for it, so even if it just sits there it doesn't move freely). The biggest problem I still have is that when fully steered, front wheels are touching the plate headlights are sitting on, effectively disconnecting it while moving. I am not sure why is that so - I am positive that everything is done according to instructions and the look of my car matches the original look from pictures in here. But I didn't really build it to play with it, so I can live with this little flaw, even though it bothers me a bit.

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Hi, i rebuilt your car.

Buti cant fix the Receiver for the Stearingwheels.

It s not enaugh Space. The Receiver Is to high. Did You change anything?

I Need help

Greets Holgerpost-155062-0-31376600-1455747179_thumb.jpeg

Dear Holger, first of all thanks for building my model! I´m aware about the problem with the 3. receiver and got similar feedback from others, Sorry for that! I admit the whole section on the "passenger´s side" is a bit messy and kind of poor design, some improvements can be done here for sure. I remember last time I had built the model I changed the position of the receiver and turned it facing forward. At the moment I have mine disassembled, sorry if I can´t really help you. I hope you´ll fiind a solution and enjoy the model anyway, the more after the hard work :wink: !

When I was building this model I needed to make few modifications because some things simply weren't fitting or looked a bit misplaced (it was quite tricky for that front receiver, it doesn't seem to fit in there at all - I ended up with creating some so sort locking mechanism for it, so even if it just sits there it doesn't move freely). The biggest problem I still have is that when fully steered, front wheels are touching the plate headlights are sitting on, effectively disconnecting it while moving. I am not sure why is that so - I am positive that everything is done according to instructions and the look of my car matches the original look from pictures in here. But I didn't really build it to play with it, so I can live with this little flaw, even though it bothers me a bit.

I know you were one of the first who built it :thumbup: ! Such issues bother me too and guys like you encouraged me to make improvements in the building instructions, and there were made some already. But I can´t get why the wheels pull off the headlights while steeering, maybe you have to move them (headlights) 1 stud outward. If there still are such issues I´ll figure them out when rebuilding it next time and fix the BI. Thank you too for your feedback!

Edited by brunojj1

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Hi all,

Around p140 of this AWESOME build. :classic:

@Hohag I also had problems with the 3rd receiver to get in place. But managed to do it.

Had to look at it and tried different things. At picture 79, p123, part 3023 is used 2x but in my build i left it out.

I have on the receiver 2x 3024, then the end of the servo motor and 3004 on the battery box and this with on top 1x2431.

Dunno if this makes any sense.

@brunojj1 picture 88, p137, the 6 black pieces. What are they. Did you use 6x4697b and cut of a piece of the t-piece?

As for the steering of the 2 front wheels, looks like the 32278 will be in the way for turning. Not there yet, so cant tell for sure.

Here is a little video of the work so far.

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Hi all,

Around p140 of this AWESOME build. :classic:

....

Dunno if this makes any sense.

@brunojj1 picture 88, p137, the 6 black pieces. What are they. Did you use 6x4697b and cut of a piece of the t-piece?

As for the steering of the 2 front wheels, looks like the 32278 will be in the way for turning. Not there yet, so cant tell for sure.

Here is a little video of the work so far.

I hope it makes sense although I couldn´t understand everything, but if you managed to get it fit, it´s pretty fine :thumbup: .

The black pieces in the BI are made of a rigid hose cut into 2L lenghts. I also have used the 4697b T-pieces instead everywhere. The first solution would be cheaper and look better.

The steering wheels shouldn´t collide anywhere, except the panel above the front wheels when the suspension is pressed down.

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I also did it like that using a black rigid hose from incomplete builds i bought. Cut them into pieces of 1cm :thumbup:

As for the steering wheels i hope not.

And again thank you for M. Martin car.

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This is how I solved that IR receiver in front - it is not locked in place with pins but rather a liftarm. Maybe it is not the most beautiful solution but if it works it works :)

OnckFTm.jpg

As for wheel-headlights touching during steering problem, I don't really have a solution for that. Headlights are where they are supposed to be, half a stud to the middle/front and they would look kind of misplaced.

s1YItul.jpg

echPB7I.jpg

Aesthetically they look like they are where they are supposed to be, unfortunately it just does not work mechanically. Maybe I really did something wrong and others don't have this problem, that's a possibility too :)

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This is how I solved that IR receiver in front - it is not locked in place with pins but rather a liftarm. Maybe it is not the most beautiful solution but if it works it works :)

As for wheel-headlights touching during steering problem, I don't really have a solution for that. Headlights are where they are supposed to be, half a stud to the middle/front and they would look kind of misplaced.

Aesthetically they look like they are where they are supposed to be, unfortunately it just does not work mechanically. Maybe I really did something wrong and others don't have this problem, that's a possibility too :)

Good solution for the receiver. Concerning the wheel´s collision with the headlights: does the problem occur on both sides?? From the pictures I have the strong suspission that the whole thing is not centered right! Then my tip would be: put in place with a short abrupt movement like the chiropractors do to dislocated joints (1 "click" - oops, this is "illegal" :wink:)

Edited by brunojj1

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Unfortunately it happens on both sides but maybe it is worth noting that only when going back. This problem does not occur when steering while going forward, only in reverse. My bet is that front wheels are a bit looser than they should be and they wiggle a little too much. I was thinking of modifying steering mechanism, to give it a half stud of a travel less for steering - that way the wheels would never touch that plate.

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Helle,

Thanks for our help. I saw the pictures and i try to fix ob the Same way. It's a very nice car.

After the yellow i want to Build the Black one for the Lego gerage.

Holger

Edited by Hohag

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Unfortunately it happens on both sides but maybe it is worth noting that only when going back. This problem does not occur when steering while going forward, only in reverse. My bet is that front wheels are a bit looser than they should be and they wiggle a little too much. I was thinking of modifying steering mechanism, to give it a half stud of a travel less for steering - that way the wheels would never touch that plate.

Usually it can´t happen that the movement goes so far as on your picture. The normal servo makes the steering rack travel by no more and no less than exactly 1 stud in each direction. The reason for your problem could be one of these:

1. The steering is not centered

2. Your servo moves more than 90 degrees in both directions which is not normal

3. You use an M- motor instead of a servo

4. the steering rack / gear setup is different

A solution for the travel limiting could be the following:

help.png

By the way: the first one would support a better Ackermann geometry. I don´t remember exactly, but probably I´ve used it in my last version.

Helle,

Thanks for our help. I saw the pictures and i try to fix ob the Same way. It's a very nice car.

After the yellow i want to Build the Black one for the Lego gerage.

Holger

How big is your Lego garage :oh3: ? Greetings to all BMW freaks! This weekend I´m planning to rebuild the models in the blue & white colors which I´ve gathered the parts for now (unfortunately without stickers).

@ other builders of the BMW: I´m feeling guilty already of bumping this topic almost everyday. If somebody gets to experience similar issues with the build, please write me a PM, I´d be glad to help if possible.

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1. The steering is not centered

- steering itself is centered; I actually dismantled the car once already in order to center the steering and gear 2 XL motors down. This collision is happening on both sides, which kind of proves that it is centered.

2. Your servo moves more than 90 degrees in both directions which is not normal

- I don't think this is the reason either, on a picture you can see that there are 4 studs visible on the left and 2 on the right. Steered the other way, it is the opposite. When not steered, 3 on both sides. That proves it is centered and also that the travel is that one stud.

3. You use an M- motor instead of a servo

- it's definitely servo

4. the steering rack / gear setup is different

- I guess this has to be it (logically, after ruling out all of the above). Maybe I screwed something up when I rebuilt the car, I just can't tell what that could be as nothing looks misplaced or out of proportion. If noone else has the same issue as I do than I will leave it be here, as it would obviously be my own doing rather than problem with a model and/or instructions.

Speaking of Lego garages - I am building my own (http://i.imgur.com/l7QRdUi.jpg) and this car is so far its prime piece, hands down. So true the original, so much attention to details, so yellow :D The only problem now is - I am sort of addicted and currently I don't have a space for all those models, so they sit wherever I can find an empty spot - on floor, under the bed... I am still planning on expanding the collection with at least 4 more cars - the biggest challenge by far will be recreating Francisco Hartleys blue Pagani Huayra, with most of its functions, a task for which I don't have enough skill nor experience, but hopefully I will manage it somehow. Since there are no instructions nor LDD, I will have to reverse engineer it from pictures. But one day, when I finally settle down, I will dedicate one wall in the house to displaying Lego Technic :)

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@filiuS and others who have built the car: I feel kind of stupid now and have to apologize about having overseen the travel limiter missing in the building instructions! If the fragile section with the front lights falls off when the wheels are steered, it´s really bothering and fun killing. I don´t dare to ask Thorsten to update instructions again, but we will see what can be done.

50.png

I didn´t notice it until I built the white blue version yesterday.

44.jpg

45.jpg

I think I will gather some more blue panels considering the build of a completely blue car. F. Hartleys Pagain Huayra looks exceptionally good, especially in this color. The big problem is as usually the poor availability of blue flex axles. To bypass this issue I bought blue pneumatic hose, but unfortunately the color didn’t match at all.

Finally I´ve got to make one of my 2 Sbricks work! I still don´t get why the other one behaves so silly and responds only sporadic and especially refuses to work parallel to the other. So I had to settle for the minimum option with 2 motors, 1 servo, 1 battery and LED lights. On the picture you can see how I attached it. If I had to install a PF receiver I would put it either this way. One of the biggest advantages of the Sbricks for me is the possibility to hide it somewhere to achieve a cleaner look of the model.

47.jpg

Vengit (Sbrick operators) seem to have managed to improve the software. It´s running much more safely now and after the Bluetooth pairing which is still a problem sometimes on my android.

48.png

Now I can go for a ride using the actual 24h LeMans profile. It has a nice extra button for switching the lights on and can be configured with other additional functions such as doors and hood opening which I will consider for my next model. Hopefully then both Sbricks will run smoothly together.

49.png

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@filiuS and others who have built the car: I feel kind of stupid now and have to apologize about having overseen the travel limiter missing in the building instructions! If the fragile section with the front lights falls off when the wheels are steered, it´s really bothering and fun killing. I don´t dare to ask Thorsten to update instructions again, but we will see what can be done.

50.png

Ah, this is what I was missing. Due to lack of 33299 in my pool of spare parts, I implemented a bit modified solution with the same general idea. I used one 32184 on each side of steering arm and connected them with 3L axles. Wheels do not touch the headlights panels now. Thanks a lot for your help.

That blue/white version looks good in real life - on renders it didn't look quite as appealing. But so far no color combination for this car beats the yellow one for me :)

Edited by filuS

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This is one awesome car.

But won't build it, I'm sticking to trucks, construction equipment and agricultural machinery.

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