edsmith0075

Bogies/Trucks with metal piping (Jacobs)...

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Im interested in converting all my current rail frieght trucks to a more detailed life like style such as the Jacobs Bogie which uses a brass tube to mount the wheels and hold them in place. I forget the RailBricks volume that had the details for this design other wise I would refer to that by now. For those of you that know what Im talking about, Where did you get your piping, how much did it cost and can you give a referal for someone selling it that you have had a positive experience through.

22305805485_bd6c2b1e9b_z.jpg8 Wide TTX Intermodal Well Cars by Ed Smith, on Flickr

22118093898_ffe18ee177_z.jpg8 Wide TTX Intermodal Well Cars by Ed Smith, on Flickr

I hope these pics help describe the design, just without the needed piping.

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Just to be clear, you mean for the tubing to press into the clip light piece:

4081b.jpg

...such that it sucks up the slop from the wheel axle?

EDIT: ...and provides a stop so the wheels stay centered.

Edited by coaster

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Im interested in converting all my current rail frieght trucks to a more detailed life like style such as the Jacobs Bogie which uses a brass tube to mount the wheels and hold them in place. I forget the RailBricks volume that had the details for this design other wise I would refer to that by now. For those of you that know what Im talking about, Where did you get your piping, how much did it cost and can you give a referal for someone selling it that you have had a positive experience through.

I found them on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQOPWM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

You'll need a hacksaw to cut the tubes to size, and a small file to smooth over the ends after cutting.

Also, in my experience, the brass tube doesn't quite fit in these: 4081b.jpg but works real well with these: 6019.jpg

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I bought some 1/8th inch O.D. aluminum tubing at a local hardware store. I don't recall the price, but it was cheap.

I used a tubing cutter, and reamed the ends with a train axle. Cut the tubes to slightly longer than 4 studs, otherwise the wheels will scrape the side of the bogie and create drag. I also used the older 9V era wheels and axles, where the metal axle sticks through the wheel. I worried the RC/PF axles are too lose, and may pop off.

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-I use 1/8" KS brass tubing.

-Tube cutter (see my Flickr stream) to cut the tubes to 32mm (4 studs.)

-Needle file to ream out the hole and deburr the edges.

-I place #2 brass washers on the axle at either end, these reduce friction of plastic wheel on imperfectly cut tube, protect the plastic, and provide the spacing to keep the wheel off the bogie.

-Finally, I put a tiny tiny drop of Kragle in the axle hole and then place the wheel on the axle.

At some point I'll go a step farther and provide a lubricant compatible with ABS.

Not particularly pure, but I can run several pounds of train that way.

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That 1/8" KS tubing seems like it would be a little sloppy to me. The ID is Ø.097", in which a Ø2mm shaft will really rattle around, more than the standard wheel assemblies do. I checked with a few of my barstock sources, I can get Ø.085" ID tubing for pretty cheap. Shoot me a PM with how many you need and I'll just cut them for you. Shortest tube I can get is 1 ft, which will probably yield about 8 pieces, but if you need a handful of them, should only be a buck apiece, or less even.

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-I use 1/8" KS brass tubing.

-Tube cutter (see my Flickr stream) to cut the tubes to 32mm (4 studs.)

-Needle file to ream out the hole and deburr the edges.

-I place #2 brass washers on the axle at either end, these reduce friction of plastic wheel on imperfectly cut tube, protect the plastic, and provide the spacing to keep the wheel off the bogie.

-Finally, I put a tiny tiny drop of Kragle in the axle hole and then place the wheel on the axle.

At some point I'll go a step farther and provide a lubricant compatible with ABS.

Not particularly pure, but I can run several pounds of train that way.

I use a very similar layout but I cut my tubing to 33mm so I don't need the No.2 washers. I have retrofit the washers to my earlier tubing which had been cut to 32mm particularly on the aluminium tubing that I tried for a future Schnabel car. I went back to the brass tubing because it had a snugger fit in the 1 x 1 plate with clip light (4081b) that I use to hold the tubing. I forego the Kragle because I use K&S Engineering stock No. 8168, 0,081" x 12" brass rod for axles. Cut to 40mm length (1,575"). One 12" piece gives 7 axles. Not bad for 2-3$. It's a snug fit and the wheels can't fall off.

I use graphite powder as a lubricant. Completely safe with ABS. You can get it in hobby shops in a tube that goes by the name Greas-em.

Dan-147

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I am grateful for all the feedback. I will try the suggestions provided. I am going try to use the clips instead of the closed hole plates. If there are any other ideas I look forward to the advise.

Has anyone been able to keep the lego train wheel holders and have them look similar to the Jacobs bogie or other more realistic designs?

Oh and I am going to visit the local hardware stores to see if the tubing is available there. I think the thing for me right now is that I would like to build a few of these bogies this weekend and the tubing is whats holding me up.

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Oh and I am going to visit the local hardware stores to see if the tubing is available there. I think the thing for me right now is that I would like to build a few of these bogies this weekend and the tubing is whats holding me up.

Try your local hobby place, the ones that sell R/C cars and R/C airplanes. They usually have a K&S Engineering display stand with the tubings and rods.

Dan-147

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I am going to try and stop at one on my way home from work. They sell RC everything. I have been trying to get my hands on a 9 volt RC rechargeable battery pack to use as the power source for my 8 wides.

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