SBrick & Train - Review & Discussion

[Ashi Valkoinen]

Dear all Train Tech guys,

Thanks to the kindness of SBrick team I got two SBrick units for some testing - one of them was built into my LEGO MÁV Stadler FLIRT electric motor unit, another one into my LEGO MÁV Siemens Taurus electric locomotive. We tried as well to install SBrick between 9V Train Speed regulator and a loop of 9V track, where usual 9V-based trams were running.

Fig.1. TFOL driving SBrick-controlled Stadler FLIRT on our layout.

1. SBrick installation

For first, a quick overview for those, who don’t know, how SBrick works. If you are familiar with the smart brick, you surely can skip this chapter.

To imagine SBrick it is the easiest to think about a normal LEGO Power Functions IR Receiver with four outputs, more channels and without the restriction of the infrared technology - with other words your smartphone or device doesn’t need “visual” contact to the receiver unit, thanks to the bluetooth connection. Also it works surely fine within the range of 50 metres, but by good circumstances it works from 100 metres as well.

Other great advantage, that SBrick’s current limitation is 3 Ampers per output, while PF IR receiver has 800 mA - better choice if you want to run something heavier then avarage 6W trains.

Fig.2. The SmartBrick unit. (Photo taken from sbrick.com.)

SBrick could be powered with normal LEGO battery boxes or LiPo rechargeable battery with a Power Function extension cable. It is also possible to power SBrick from old 9V battery boxes or even a 9V Train Speed Regulator, using the 9V/PF end of the extension cable. In this case you should check, if the little green light on SBrick is on - depending on polarity the SBrick is enpowered, or nothing happens.

You can plug on your train motors, lights, other PF motors on the SBrick’s four outputs.

Next step is to design your remote control interface for your device. To do this, you need to be registered on social.sbrick.com, then go to designer.sbrick.com to create your profiles. The profile designer works in most of the web browsers properly, you can add sliders, joysticks and buttons to it. It is really advised to fill the “name” field in setting - later you need to know, which slider do what when configuring SBrick. Sliders work like old RC Train Remote control, joystick is an advanced slider, buttons works like turn on and off. For all controllers you can configure maximum output - if you want to limit your train’s maximum speed, quite easy to do, setting a value lower then 1 to maximum output. Also you can set up, if the controller will reset to zero or not, when you stop touching the screen of your device.

You can set background for your controller, you can change the design of the sliders, joysticks and buttons - we have dozen of previously created ones, but you can use also own-designed images as well.

Fig.3. My profiles designed for event TEMOFESZT 2015. Upper one manages three SBricks at the same time, a tram line with a slider, the ferris-wheel with a button (0.3 maximum output) and two other sliders my FLIRT train. Theoretically, if your screen is big enough, you can manage 16 SBricks and 64 funtions at the same time from the same device - perfect tool to operate a whole layout.

After the profile is done, you should connect your MOC to your device. To do this, you need the SBrick application (or for quick play SBrick Tester application). Create a new Creation in SBrick application, turn on SBrick in your MOC, add SBrick to your creation and download your profile to your device. Then click connected SBrick (or SBricks) in your Creations menu, and pair sliders and buttons (if you named them before, it is easier :) ) to the outputs (A,B,C,D) of the SBrick in your MOC. After doing this, click the profile in the app you made for your MOC, and start playing :)

2. SBrick & Stadler FLIRT

Surely most of you know this creation. It is my 8 stud wide electric motor unit, the original train manufactured by the swiss Stadler company. The LEGO train’s weight is around 3,5 kg-s, previously it was driven by two 9V train motors and two PF train motors, connected to 9V ones. The train also has front-tail lights (using modded PF leds, described in RailBricks #9) and interior lights - three functions to operate.

Fig.4. Cables and cables - all of my train’s funtions connected to the SBrick unit. The bigger battery box (which never turns off) grants continiouos availability until the batteries die.

As before, I sacrificed the toilette part of the interior to install electric parts - the big AA battery box powers the SBrick unit, and functions are mounted on the outputs. I had a small issue here with the design of the SBrick - if you plug more than one PF cables on the lower (C,D) outputs, it will be inpossible to plug any to A and B. So if you have to plug more than one on some output, you should put them on A and B, or if three output needs more than one plugs, you should insert an additional extension cable first to lower one C and D, and then plug your needed cable ends to the extension cable.

In the train now boogie 2 and 4 are driven - 9V train motors are removed, and normal train wheels replaced them at boogie 1 and 5. The third (middle) boogie is unpowered as well.

Operating the train is quite easy, if you learn, how to use your touchscreen properly. Since I have direction dependent front-tail lights, I named on my profile (refer to Fig.3) the two ends of my train “A” and “B”, just like the real thing. When starting, I always turn on lights for first, and later if I press the same direction of driving slider, the train will start into the direction of three white lights on it’s front. This could be especially important, when you have a layout where trains are running not only around on one loop, but they direction can be changed at wye-s, and you can’t exactly remember, which end is which on your fully symmetric train or loco.

Fig.5. Wye-s designed by Bill Ward. Perfect way to get lost, where your train will depart when you touch the screen, or even turn the PF remote control around.

Operation time was fine - the SBrick unit doesn’t take more power than the PF receiver unit, with the pack of AA rechargeable batteries I operated my train for a full day (exhibiton was opened between 10 am and 6 pm), the train was running for 2,5-3 hours before powered down, and it wasn’t turned off for all the day. Also I tested the train at home for continouos running - after 15-20 mins the PF-train motors got too hot and and train stopped, while SBricks temperature raised from 36-38 °C to 44-46 °C. (You can get voltage and temperature data using the SBrick tester application.)

The SBrick unit works fine - I doubted it will manage my quite heavy train (compared to avarage trains built by AFOLs), but it served really good - the more problems I had with the software part. The SBrick application written for Android have several problems - not serious ones, but quite annoying.

Connection problems

Sometimes the application can’t reconnect to the SBrick. It happens when you exit from the driving screen from your smartphone or tablet (in this case the connection will be dropped automatically), and then you turn on again your controller - it starts to reconnect, then askes if SBrick is powered. This connection issue may happen if you connect your MOC from an another device while the first device is disconnected - until you are connected to the MOC with the second device, you can’t reconnect with the first one. The reconnection problem happened when the second device got disconnected as well.

Also using the SBrick and SBrick tester applications from the same device can lead to this reconnection problem.

Fortunately, all outputs of the SBrick are resetted to zero when you device loses connection with your train, so no accidents may happen.

Fixing connection problems

As I experienced, restarting SBrick application helps in most of the cases. If this doesn’t help, in your creation’s menu you should remove the SBrick, then add it again, reconfigure it, and it will work.

Application crashes

Smartbirck application crashed for dozen times during the three days - mostly when attempting to reconnect.

Slider problem

Basically I used “slider”-s to drive my trains. I don’t exactly know, how the software part of the sliders are written, but the first 80% of the length of the slider from zero (middle) point is quite useless in train operations. After reaching 80%, the train starts slowly moving, but it is really hard to set up the train speed properly on the remaining 20% length of the slider bar. As far as I know a totally new application for SBrick is under contruction, so the output function for the sliders and joysticks will be redesigned in the near future to avoid this problem, and hopefully previously mentioned connection problems and crashes will disappear as well.

3. SBrick & Siemens Taurus locomotive

During the summer event of Kockajáték Club I installed one the SBricks to my Siemens Taurus locomotive. The loco works with two Power Function train motors, connected to the old RC train base - SBrick was placed on the output of the train base, so to turn it on for first I needed to give maximum power from the train base.

Check this video of the locomotive pulling cars, and controlled from a distance.

With this locomotive we made also some fun tests with the train guys hanging around - we put ten of our 8W, 58-64 stud long coaches on the locomotive to pull them. When the magnet coupling didn’t fail (with careful driving) the SBrick unit (and the two PF train motors) could pull all the cars, but the SmartBrick got really hot in less than 5 minutes - we reached the 90 °C temperature easily, and the SBrick got shut down by temperature protection. After couple of seconds it cooled down, and the smartphone reconnected to it. The whole weight of the pulled train was around 11 kilograms.

4. Controlling traditional 9V lines with SmartBrick

Using an SBrick doesn’t mean you have to give up your 9V trains, tracks and motors. Get a 9V speed regulator, put SBrick on its output with a PF extension cable, and use the same cable to enpower the 9V loop, putting the dark bluish gray end on the Smartbrick and the light bluish gray end to the part you connect to the 9V tracks. Turn on speed regulator to maximum, put a 9V train on the loop - and now your 9V creation could be controlled from everywhere in a 50 metres radius circle, not just from the speed regulator. Putting more sliders connected to more loops will give you the oppourtunity to controll all your layout from the same place, while you don’t need tons of 9V extension cables to put every speed regulator at the same place.

SBrick is even a powerful tool when you don’t have loops, just sections isolated from each other, like analogous model railway - every section could be controlled as described by loops. If you motorise switches with PF motors and connect them to SBrick, you can manage almost everything only using your touchscreen.

5. Conclusions

SBrick is a powerful device to make your LEGO trains work with minor issues. The greatest advantage of SBrick that you need no vision to the receiver unit and you can controll your trains from a great distance - no more runaway trains thanks to the limitations of PF IR receiver. SBricks is also compatible with older 9V-based stuff - those who doesn’t want to switch to the newest LEGO train system can use it as well. The current limitation allows you to make really big and heavy trains to run - which is almost impossible when using original PF IR receiver.

On the other hand - one SBrick unit is quite expensive, one brick costs £40 and taxes. However this price is not that high if you compare the possibilities to the possibilities what three PF IR receivers can give you for the same amount of money.

Current SBrick application has minor issues as well, crashes and disconnects are quite annoying, and the application won’t work propely on all Android-based smart devices.

For final words, I really advise to everyone who is into trains, especially at big shows to make a try with SmartBrick. Running only one train with your phone or controlling a whole layout with one screen - the decision is up to you.

Video of the functions described above:

[BricksMcgee]

Thanks for the write-up, handy to know. Going to have t get my own SBricks now ;)

[marook]

Nice review!

The issues with Android is not a problem on iOS devices. Let's hope they soon get a more stable Android release out.

If you have an iOS device that support BT4 LE, then use that ;-)

Regarding the train & 80% slider: That is not a problem with my HE. Maybe you just run a heavy train.. ;-)

I did a show with a HE running with 6, 6 & 8 waggons with a front & back loco without problems.

Both loco's have 2 PF train motors and seperate rechargable battery and sbrick.

[dr_spock]

Good review. Thanks for including pictures and profile screenshots. It is helpful.

Would it be possible to add a large heat sink to the Sbrick to help dissipate heat? Maybe make a working radiator fan in the locomotive?

My concern is having to use an online service to create the profiles. What happens if the site goes down or the business goes out of business?

[LEGO Train 12 Volts]

Thanks for the useful review ....maybe my next locomotive can use this new sbrick!

[marook]

Good review. Thanks for including pictures and profile screenshots. It is helpful.

Would it be possible to add a large heat sink to the Sbrick to help dissipate heat? Maybe make a working radiator fan in the locomotive?

My concern is having to use an online service to create the profiles. What happens if the site goes down or the business goes out of business?

1: My trains have run for long times during a two day show, and at home, and I have never had a heat issue.

2: I understand that concern, but it would be easy for them to open the profile-platform in that case... I'm not that worried about that.

[JopieK]

If you have an iOS device that support BT4 LE, then use that ;-)

Almost all iOS devices have BLE / Bluetooth Smart / Bluetooth 4.x (different names for the same thing).

iPad (Pro, Air, Mini, 3rd & 4th gen)

iPhone (6s/Plus, 6/Plus, 5s, 5c, 5 & 4s)

[Ashi Valkoinen]

Regarding the train & 80% slider: That is not a problem with my HE. Maybe you just run a heavy train.. ;-)

I did a show with a HE running with 6, 6 & 8 waggons with a front & back loco without problems.

Both loco's have 2 PF train motors and seperate rechargable battery and sbrick.

Check this video:

The tram is a quite light creation, with two 9V motors, supplied with continuous 9V, and it starts moving only when my friend started to used the last 20% of the sliders. It happened with my Siemens Taurus loco as well, without any waggons on it, two PF motors it has, and started only moving after setting output at least 80% on the slider.

1: My trains have run for long times during a two day show, and at home, and I have never had a heat issue.

2: I understand that concern, but it would be easy for them to open the profile-platform in that case... I'm not that worried about that.

With normal usage we didn't experience any overheating - it happened only when we really overloaded the loco with SBrick. Pulling 11 kg-s of LEGO trains with two motors and one SBrick is not avarage usage. :)

[zephyr1934]

Nice review, and it provides various details not found in my recent review.

My concern is having to use an online service to create the profiles. What happens if the site goes down or the business goes out of business?

While poking around the SBrick support forums, I THINK they said that the communications format is documented somewhere, so presumably one could build their own GUI if need be.

[Hod Carrier]

Sorry for resurrecting this topic with such a prosaic question, but can someone confirm the size of the SBrick itself. From the photos it would appear to have a 4x4 stud footprint and a height of 2 bricks (6 plates).

[marook]

Sorry for resurrecting this topic with such a prosaic question, but can someone confirm the size of the SBrick itself. From the photos it would appear to have a 4x4 stud footprint and a height of 2 bricks (6 plates).

Base is 4x4 studs.

Height (without wires) is: 2 1/3

Power supply at bottum adds one plate and if ports A-B is used, add 2 plates on top. :-)

[Hod Carrier]

Thanks for the confirmation.

So for full utilisation 3 1/3 bricks height should be allowed, or 2 2/3 bricks if only using ports C and D. That's still significantly less tall than the PF IR receiver.

[TF Twitch]

My question is how does the SBrick receiver get signal if it is completely covered up?

[dr_spock]

My question is how does the SBrick receiver get signal if it is completely covered up?

Radio waves in the 2.4GHz band. They go through plastic.

[TF Twitch]

Radio waves in the 2.4GHz band. They go through plastic.

Thank you. As a mechanic I am a nuts and bolts guy, electricity and radio waves are not my thing.

[marook]

Thank you. As a mechanic I am a nuts and bolts guy, electricity and radio waves are not my thing.

It's Bluetooth.. :-)

[dr_spock]

Thank you. As a mechanic I am a nuts and bolts guy, electricity and radio waves are not my thing.

I think if you can get wireless tire pressure monitoring sensors to communicate with the car's TPM system, you can get a Sbrick to talk to your Bluetooth 4.0 smartphone or tablet.

[TF Twitch]

I think if you can get wireless tire pressure monitoring sensors to communicate with the car's TPM system, you can get a Sbrick to talk to your Bluetooth 4.0 smartphone or tablet.

I am an aircraft mechanic professionally and classic car mechanic as a hobby. I do not like that crazy computer mumbo jumbo, hence asking if the signal went through plastic.

[marook]

I am an aircraft mechanic professionally and classic car mechanic as a hobby. I do not like that crazy computer mumbo jumbo, hence asking if the signal went through plastic.

We need those people as well!

It's actually ok to be wondering, as light and radio waves is basicaly the some thing, just at different wave lengths(!) - it's all electromagnetic energy traveling at the speed of light

The ones our human eye can watch, is bouncing off objects in the phisical world, where radio waves tend to go through most of them, at least to some extend - depending on the frequency.

Fun fact: If you see a colored object, that is because that is the light that is bounced by that object. White bounces all and black none.

Hope that was more helpful.

Edited November 4, 2015 by marook