marbleman Posted October 13, 2015 What a wondeful train MOC. Detail is incredible. Color scheme is also very harmony. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Montyh7 Posted October 13, 2015 Wow, that is an amazing train. Just beautiful... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nemo57 Posted October 13, 2015 Great. Very high level of design. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Selander Posted October 13, 2015 Amazing build, very inspiring. With your skills I like to see a similar design but as an 8-wide "little-brother" which should also include PF motorization. If you don't build it it, I am tempted to make a try myself Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sven J Posted October 13, 2015 Amazing build, very inspiring. With your skills I like to see a similar design but as an 8-wide "little-brother" which should also include PF motorization. If you don't build it it, I am tempted to make a try myself I'm sorry, but I have to disappoint you... I have just set up a large LGB 45 mm track layout, so I think I'll stick to that. PF is a different issue - there are some things to come... As I am very fond of this little industrial steamer, I definitely would like to see you build an 8-wide Knapsack! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
monai Posted October 13, 2015 (edited) I'm flattered in having help you to post your beautiful work. Let me ask you some more technical questions: you have said to use the scale 1:30, but if I remember well the gauge 1 is 1:32, there is a specific reason for this change? you are certainly a very serious railway modellist if you are used to work with Marklin spur 1 (by the way the Marklin br96 spur 1 is a dream), from longtime I was wondering how the Lego wheels could run on these code 200 (is it right?) rails; you have said is difficult due to the out of scale flange but this is a problem for the BBB XL wheels or for Lego ones too?. The LGB are code 335, definitely too high, as you certainly know they are conceived for "Schmalspur" (spur G), are you using them in a "garten bahn"? A final question, will you use the Lego PF on gauge 1 (45mm) or in standard Lego gauge (38mm)? with my best wishes and impatience to see your next models. Sergio Edited October 13, 2015 by monai Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sven J Posted October 13, 2015 I'm flattered in having help you to post your beautiful work. Let me ask you some more technical questions: you have said to use the scale 1:30, but if I remember well the gauge 1 is 1:32, there is a specific reason for this change? you are certainly a very serious railway modellist if you are used to work with Marklin spur 1 (by the way the Marklin br96 spur 1 is a dream), from longtime I was wondering how the Lego wheels could run on these code 200 (is it right?) rails; you have said is difficult due to the out of scale flange but this is a problem for the BBB XL wheels or for Lego ones too?. The LGB are code 335, definitely too high, as you certainly know they are conceived for "Schmalspur" (spur G), are you using them in a "garten bahn"? A final question, will you use the Lego PF on gauge 1 (45mm) or in standard Lego gauge (38mm)? with my best wishes and impatience to see your next models. Sergio You are right, gauge 1 is 1:32. But the diameter of the BBB XL drivers ist exactly 1/30 of the prototype's 1100 mm, so I chose that scale. I admit that, by doing so, track width is a little too narrow for the locomotive (45 mm in 1:30 being equivalent to 1350 mm in reality, instead of 1435 mm); but this minor difference - less than 3 mm - is almost unnoticeable, especially as the engine is displayed in a showcase on its own, without direct comparison to other models. The flange problem occurs with LEGO wheels, too, maybe even a little worse. Because of that, my models are displayed on Märklin track (yes, it's code 200) and, as far as the PF-driven ones are concerned, operated on LGB track (no "gartenbahn", just a large layout on the floor of my attic). I know that LGB rails are way too high as they are actually meant for narrow gauge, but it is the only (affordable) possibility to get the models running. By the way, PF models (the first one coming soon - just have to take a few photographs ) will be in 1:33 scale, again due to the prototype's wheel diameter. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
monai Posted October 13, 2015 (edited) The wheel diameter is in fact THE constraint for the right scale in Lego, I was lucky because the BR96 diameter is in right scale (1:38) with the Lego XL wheel, but normally the wheels are absurdly small with a abnormally high flange. In principle is possible to customize the right gauge (peko code 250 rails and self made tires..), but the right wheel is very difficult, well we have to admit we are playing with a toy born for other things.. but when is possible the results are remarkable. If the scale will be 1:33 I presume the gauge will be 45mm so spur G LGB (for the flange problem), I admit to be very very curious... gruss Sergio Edited October 13, 2015 by monai Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bjorkan Posted October 13, 2015 this is beautiful, oh, yes... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Younge Posted October 14, 2015 Such intricate detail. This is one of those MOC's where a Lego newbie struggles (from a distance) to see that is actually made out of Lego!!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Selander Posted October 14, 2015 Following your discussion about wheel size, it seems an 8wide version in scale 1:45 will very well match BBB medium size wheels. 24mm diam * 45 = 1080mm which is pretty close to 1100. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sven J Posted October 14, 2015 Hello AFOLs, thank you very, very much for this cordial welcome here at Eurobricks, for your compliments and your interest in my model. In my wildest dreams I never would have imagined to make it to the EB front page with my first post. So, after this encouraging start, more large scale train models will follow! With best wishes, Sven Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FactorXa Posted October 15, 2015 Have you thought about submiting it to Lego Ideas??? That is a very nice MOC! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sven J Posted October 15, 2015 Have you thought about submiting it to Lego Ideas??? That is a very nice MOC! Thanks for the compliments. Well, I thought about it; but since such important parts as the wheels are non-LEGO products, I don't think it would be accepted. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
marook Posted October 16, 2015 It's a really, really wonderful model! Ideas might not accept it, unless they used to make wheels ike that.. ? Give it a try! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sven J Posted October 16, 2015 I just looked up the LEGO Ideas guidelines. They clearly state that „proposals for new LEGO parts (of any material), competing brand building bricks, or “aftermarket” elements manufactured and sold by any third party are not allowed“. To replace the wheels by original LEGO parts won’t work, as even their largest drivers would look ridiculously small. Nevertheless: Many thanks for your appreciation! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hrw-Amen Posted October 17, 2015 It is nice to see this engine. I have to admit that I have myself been a little tardy of late with building stuff, so something like this maybe just what is needed to reawaken the bug. I look forwards to seeing some of your PF models. Are they going to be in the normal 'L' Gauge or of a larger type? It would be good to see something in the normal scale as i find it easier to imagine the scene as a whole with some minifigures but each to his own and that does not detract from your build. As for the awful use of NON standard parts like the BBB wheels, well, what a terrible crime to make on a LEGO forum!!! And Gluing parts!!!! Well, don't worry, I am sure all is forgiven, I have myself along with several other people on here used many a BBB Wheel for our MOCS, there are not many NON LEGO parts that are acceptable but I think you wold be hard pushed to find someone who would criticize you for using them. They are one of those few almost LEGO parts that seem to have become acceptable. Gluing, not so much, but I cannot deny that on occasion I have had a bit that for whatever reason has just become loose and will not stay in place. I should not do it but I may have resorted to glue once or twice, but don't tell anyone!! Thanks for posting. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jkj1909 Posted October 25, 2015 This is a masterpiece, please show us some of your work on the waggon side, if any . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sven J Posted October 25, 2015 This is a masterpiece, please show us some of your work on the waggon side, if any . Thanks again! For my Knapsack, there aren't any waggons, I'm sorry - since she has no functional couplings, it would make no sense, even on display. But as soon as I had an opportunity to make a video of the running train (tomorrow or Tuesday, I hope), I will show two matching passenger cars for my G7.1. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jkj1909 Posted October 25, 2015 (edited) I have seen others managing to build in separate LGB-Couplings, perhaps an idea Edited October 25, 2015 by jkj1909 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jamesed_1971 Posted October 26, 2015 The detailing you have done on your 1:30 Krupp Knapsack 0-6-0T is just incredible, the amount of details you have crammed into the model is just out of the world like the cab interior, the way you built the Locomotive cab, that the advantage that 12 wide gives you. I have built a 16 stud wide narrow gauge locomotive and 4 wheel coach which can run on Peco SM32 track http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=113403 http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=113400 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sven J Posted October 26, 2015 I have seen others managing to build in separate LGB-Couplings, perhaps an idea Well, of course I know those LGB couplings – but they look really awkward, don’t they? For my G7.1 and the wagons, I used a 1x2 plate with hook on each vehicle and a thin Technic liftarm as a link – comparably unobtrusive, simple, suitable for high pulling powers (and easy to decouple, too). But when designing the Knapsack, my ambition was to make a pure display model which comes as close to the prototype as possible, regardless of functionality, so I don’t really want to exchange the fake couplings. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duq Posted October 29, 2015 That's a little beauty! I had missed this thread initially, only found it after I saw the post about your passenger cars. This scale allows a lot more detailing and you certainly have an eye for it. I'm looking forward to new models from your hand. Oh, and you're right, you're not the only one building big Lego trains: https://www.flickr.com/photos/bricksonwheels/14942063251/in/dateposted/ ;-) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
