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aaaa love this topic.

Barman on bricklink has created two pin removal tools.

http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=392178

and

http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=392179

I use variations of this to accomplish the same if pins are stubborn.

Also use blunt knifes to split wheel hubs if I need to. crowkillers method:

I also use blunt knives (as Sariel's butter knife) for separating the difficult bits - in my case, I use a letter-opening knife which has a nicely rounded edge and is beautifully smooth so doesn't mark the ABS.

Also, very useful and a half-way house to purpose-made stickers, is self-adhesive plastic film. This may not appeal to the purist but the films are very available, either on line or from your local sign shop, often off-cuts are free of charge from the latter. A very wide range of colours are available, many a reasonable match to Lego colours, and are great for things like the black flashes on Volvo plant and particularly for realistically reflective wing mirrors on road vehicles. Another use is to convert the relatively available black 3 x 11 tapered panels to, say, the bi-coloured yellow/black version required for the Volvo engine cover.

John

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Oh yes, I am following this topic, I did not do the link.

I am looking forward to the result !

Thanks, The results of my project will be posted in the link.

Now back to the topic

When it comes to building the Magnet rotor there is tons of stuff I had to prefect so it will come out good and most of the time I find my self going to LEGO to solve these problems.

For starters I've built a gauge from 2 bricks with a flat plate on top to be the measuring device for the quality of the rotor.

21381484700_a8367904d3_c.jpgLEGO Rotor Gauge by boxerlego, on Flickr

And because the rotor is two bricks tall I'm able to then use one brick to be the guide for making a precise center mark on the rotor part, and to do this I use a small flat-head screwdriver that happens to have a locking fit in between the studs of the brick for precise center line.

21382997239_9d92fe29b1_c.jpgLEGO Rotor Center Scoring Screwdriver by boxerlego, on Flickr

21578274431_17522d0756_c.jpgLEGO V-block Center Connector by boxerlego, on Flickr

Once all the necessary marks have been made the next step is to drill into the PVC tube. The first three holes are the most important and most care should be taken into getting them straight and center. The last three holes will be the easiest with the help of the LEGO pin connector part. When the first three holes are drilled in the tube it is possible to use the pin connector to center the tube up and drill last three holes 180 degrees opposite from the first three holes.

21578299971_fced5ce30f_c.jpgLEGO V-block Center Connector PVC by boxerlego, on Flickr

The pin connector part centers the PVC tube up very good for the other hole to be drilled.

21383032969_250eac76c2_c.jpgPVC Tube Centered Rod by boxerlego, on Flickr

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For pushing 1/2 pins and axle pins out, I use a cross axle. To place electrical wires in small place, sometimes I use a paper knife or a match. For plates a brick separator. I never use sharp metal tools or my teeth.

The old black technic pins without slots you often cannot remove them without damage. I remove them with a plier and throw them away.

For making tired parts shining, I get good results with alu polish from a car shop.

Greetings

Alex

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Here is another tool I just discovered. Not sharp like a knife, no danger of damaging bricks (if used properly), but is great for separating Technic pieces with lots of pins and therefore a very rigid connections. I can hear nay-sayers saying just use your hands...... but the problem with that with very strong connections is when the pins finally do give, you run the risk of ripping other things apart. The force you use to separate things will keep going and could damage other stuff. However, using just a quick and subtle twist of my wrist I can separate these strong connections without damaging other connections.......14541578431_DISPLAY.jpg

14541578443_DISPLAY.jpg14541578442_DISPLAY.jpg

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Knives work.... problems are that they can mark up or even cut into this bricks. If there is like a very very strong connection you have to drive the knife far in, and that increases the likelihood of damage. This tool, the spark plug gapper, I can wedge all the way between bricks without haring them. I used to used a knife or two if needed, but discovered that this way was much better.

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I'm still looking for a robotic vacuum cleaner with automated ABS separaration. The dust would go in one container and everything brick in a separate bin. Would make my life a whole lot easier.

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