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Excellent. This is probably the highest attainable level of fun with pure Lego parts. Agreed, softer springs would offer better traction on that rough terrain, minus that both models are tastefully built, and nice homages to the original.

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Thanks guys, glad you like this one too :) I'll give it a try with the softer shocks when I take it outside again, as I recall I tested them during building but the ground clearance was not that good.

@Didumos69 excellent idea, thank you very much! I tried to use the inner holes of the wishbones as well, but with a shorter link and an extended gear rack. That didn't work well as at the end of the suspension travel the links were pulling the wheel hubs already regardless of the gear rack's position. I'll definitely try your version, it's so simple and elegant!

@Leonardo da Bricki a belly shot for you:

PANA4300_EB_ret.jpg

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I love the video.:thumbup:

Looks like front caster angle is not enough because of raised rear suspsenison, or am I wrong?

 

 

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Just popped in my mind another possible solution for reducing the wheelbase on the smaller version, the bottom fixation point is adjustable in 3 studs height (by swapping the 4630114.jpg parts).

The red marked part can be this too: 6167281.jpg, fixed by extra half bushes. LDD file is here, might be usefull for someone.

1280x720.jpg

 

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35 minutes ago, agrof said:

Just popped in my mind another possible solution for reducing the wheelbase on the smaller version, the bottom fixation point is adjustable in 3 studs height (by swapping the 4630114.jpg parts).

The red marked part can be this too: 6167281.jpg, fixed by extra half bushes. LDD file is here, might be usefull for someone.

Cool! That new part would be better I think, less friction. That part opens up some nice possibilities.

But what about the gearrack? There is a 3l gearrack with tow balls attached, but can you integrate it?

Edited by Didumos69

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Not that one, but custom built solution could work, though I am afraid not for a buggy motor version... but for static models with fake engine could be perfect. LDD file is here.

Edit: I don't know why I put the half bush on the wheel axle, totally unnecessary. :tongue: Also with this spring setup the movement range is more limited, but I could imagine a suitable pushrod system.

1280x720.jpg

Edited by agrof

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I disassembled the bigger one to make the instructions for the buggy motor mod and I'm rebuilding the smaller one now. Implemented the idea coming from @Didumos69 for the steering, it works great so far! I'll check the other solution, too :)

PANA5052_EB_ret.jpg

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Instructions can be found in the video below for the buggy motor mod. I tried to highlight what steps needs to be changed compared to the original instructions. I did not create a part list, the items needed can be seen in the video hopefully. I'm still refining the smaller version, planning to create a complete instruction set for that one.

 

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12 minutes ago, kbalage said:

Instructions can be found in the video below for the buggy motor mod. I tried to highlight what steps needs to be changed compared to the original instructions. I did not create a part list, the items needed can be seen in the video hopefully. I'm still refining the smaller version, planning to create a complete instruction set for that one.

Thanks.  I will try and have a look at this when I have time next week!  It is an awesome upgrade!

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A while ago, @Didumos69 made a clever patch for the rear swingarms. With this MOD, the inner hinge parts (yellow connector #1) can not disconnect. I applied it (~ 10 minutes build), and I am very satisfied with the result! :sweet:

Thanks Didumos!

800x450.jpg

Edited by agrof

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On 11/8/2017 at 3:52 PM, kbalage said:

A quick list of modifications:
- L motors replaced with buggy motors - slower output is geared down for optimal performance
- IR receivers replaced with SBricks (to be able to run on Lego battery boxes as well)
- seats removed to accommodate the BuWizz units for optimal weight balance
- front end reworked to be more stable (survive high speed crashes)
- fine details removed - the lights and other pieces added much to the look of the original version but I kept loosing them so decided to remove most of it.

@kbalage, I noticed you are using two BuWizz units as battery boxes. Is it advisable to use two battery units for a model at this scale. If I'm correct you could have routed two L-motors to one channel. Or is that not the case. I'm asking this for my 4WD RC buggy of course.

Edited by Didumos69

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Just now, Didumos69 said:

@kbalage, I noticed you are using two BuWizz units as battery boxes. Is it advisable to use two battery units for a model at this scale. If I'm correct you could have routed two L-motors to one channel. Or is that not the case. I'm asking this for my 4WD RC buggy of course.

I used 2 BuWizz units because I wanted to provide full power under load to the buggy motors. If you're planning to use BuWizz then one unit will handle 4 L motors. If you're planning to use Power Functions components (Battery box & IR receiver) then it might be better to use 2 of them both.

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I finally got around to modding the L motors to buggy motors.  I used only one buwizz which works fine in normal mode.

Massive improvement in speed and highly recommended if building this MOC.

Thanks @kbalage for the upgrade and making video of building sequence.

1280x720.jpg

1280x720.jpg

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7 minutes ago, agrof said:

Looks great, enjoy it! :thumbup: :classic:

I recommend though this small modification - looks nicer, and also more legal and thus  more stable: https://www.bricksafe.com/pages/agrof/class-1-buggy-evo-l/front-panel-patch

@kbalage had done an alternative so I had assumed it was the better solution compared to your original design.  I will apply your fix and compare.

Thanks :thumbup:

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Finally got around to attaching both buwizz's to the buggy and here are my comments using tractor tires as shown in my photo above.  I drove without the extra tire over the batteries.

The steering angle while it may be accurate would actually benefit from much less travel.  First reason is because it would be easier to control and the second is because at higher speeds it just vibrates/ hops as it understeers.  If there was a way to control the steering with finer precision, it would likely not be an issue.

A medium hit to the front and the pin holding the tie-rod would pop out.  A medium to hard hit from the back and the cables attached to the buggy motors pop off.  A hard hit to front and the bottom frame comes unattached at the two cross pins.

Both side panels come off often, however; I did not apply your fix yet.

It was a lot of fun to drive, but with only rear wheel drive, it struggled in loose type terrain.

Thanks again for an awesome buggy and upgrade!

 

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On 11/29/2017 at 10:48 PM, kbalage said:

Instructions can be found in the video below for the buggy motor mod. I tried to highlight what steps needs to be changed compared to the original instructions. I did not create a part list, the items needed can be seen in the video hopefully. I'm still refining the smaller version, planning to create a complete instruction set for that one.

 

May I know what tires is it? Look great!

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