Modding 9V to PF. worth it?

[THERIZE]

hi guys,

here in europe summer holiday finally started and that means my birthday is coming soon. i'm now planning to buy one Power Functions train kit. but well, for what could i use it. I've build a TRAXX mod on LDD with PF build in. that could be a nice train to run on my layout but one locomotive without coaches is just

another idea i have is buying LEGO 4559. for me it is one of the best lego train sets. don't know... but as i don't have 9V that would require a rebuild for the set and i need to sell all the tracks, motor and speed controller. and its obviously expensive to buy a nice set like that in perfect condition. but is it worth it to modify 9V to run on Power functions? i saw an old topic about rebuilding it to PF but it wasn't very clear how it was done. that comes with another problem that it would cost more then making my own MOC. so what is the best I could do. and are there more experiences with modding 9V to PF?

[pirzyk]

I have modded 2 9V trains to PF (10020 and 10133) and I think it is worth it, you can run these trains on any PF compatible track, including the ME Models larger radius curves. I would also invest in rechargable battery pack, either the LEGO one (what I use) or envloop (sp?) rechargable AAA batteries.

If you stick with 9V; track, motors and controllers are only going to get more expensive in the future. Our LTC is talking about moving away from 9V, as several other LTCs have already done.

[dr_spock]

I would keep the 4559 set running intact on 9V. If I have to run it on PF track, I would build a PF power car in similar style to push the train from the back. Swap out the 9V motor with a free rolling bogie in the front. That way I don't lose some of the playability of the set to hold PF battery box, IR receiver, etc. Also it would be easy going back and forth between 9V and PF.

[Brickthus]

For 9V trains with 9V lights it's easy enough to power the 9V lights from PF or use a PF light brick instead.

For trains without lights it is unlikely there would already be a wire from the 9V motor to inside the loco body in 9V mode. This is not too difficult, just rebuild the bit between the bogies to ensure the 1x2 holes in the carriage base are not obstructed.

The main issue is the volume of PF items and leads inside the loco. Battery box and IR Receiver for starters, but everything else adds more leads.

I converted a larger MOC diesel loco from 9V to PF for experiments and as a template.

The loco already had a wire connecting 2x 9V motors for better load sharing, so no difficulty there. In the experiment I didn't change the motors so it can run in either 9V mode or PF mode. Unfortunately 9V train motors hate the PWM drive of PF.

The battery box, receiver and 2x light bricks (with leads) took up significant space but there was still room for a small breadboard for an automatic light direction circuit.

So a 2-bogie diesel MOC is not too difficult to convert - enough space inside.

A large steam engine might be a custom rebuild to convert from 9V to PF. The tender is where most electrical items are housed. The motor tends to be structural in a steam engine (2 here); different for PF.

The two diesel shunters I've built with PF are a real squeeze. On one the XL motor fills the cab and there is barely room for a wire between the SNOT panels, even with most electrical items in the brake van! The other is crammed with BB, IR Rx, 2 motors and a gearbox. Neither would have suited the 9V era (though I did try the first one with 9V gearmotors) but it goes to show how a lot of trains (particularly those with large wheels) are now as much about Technic building as train building in the PF era.

This makes a decent challenge for AFOL trainheads but may put off younger fans; this is where the Emerald Night was good.

If your layout has tunnels then an IR Repeater circuit may be useful, to enable the train to receive signals in the tunnel.

For exhibitions an SBrick would be better as it gets over the problem of interference from anyone with an IR handset in their pocket.

Mark

[JopieK]

TRAXX as in the new NS livery? Just today I came by Haarlem and saw they are revising the old former Benelux trains to become the new Fyra (better name would be: Phoenix ).

[Redimus]

I have to say that I like the simplicity of 9V direct from the rails. It is also by far the easiest way to power the generally smaller British steam locos I want to build. Once you've got enough track, the motors are not too expensive (£20-30), but you do have to spend a fair initial outlay to get started.

[THERIZE]

I have to say that I like the simplicity of 9V direct from the rails. It is also by far the easiest way to power the generally smaller British steam locos I want to build. Once you've got enough track, the motors are not too expensive (£20-30), but you do have to spend a fair initial outlay to get started.

well, i have boxes full of plastic track so buying 9V would be pretty stupid if i did it. and i like to run multiple trains that are not on the same speed.

TRAXX as in the new NS livery? Just today I came by Haarlem and saw they are revising the old former Benelux trains to become the new Fyra (better name would be: Phoenix ).

nope, one in german red delivery. but i can recolour it...

I would keep the 4559 set running intact on 9V. If I have to run it on PF track, I would build a PF power car in similar style to push the train from the back. Swap out the 9V motor with a free rolling bogie in the front. That way I don't lose some of the playability of the set to hold PF battery box, IR receiver, etc. Also it would be easy going back and forth between 9V and PF.

that could be for a freight train or some but for 4559, meh

[WholeWheatLego]

Here's the thing with PF and 9v:

As people have said 9v is expensive and will only get more so. However, 9v is the best solution for Bogie-focused designs, like diesels, electrics. PF can be good for steam and more complex designs, for it has more driving options from the multitude of PF motors. It takes up quite a bit more space in your locos, though. That being said, the best option would be whatever seems the best to you. If your willing to shell out a *bit* more, go with 9v. PF is more versatile in terms of track layouts (you don't have to worry about short circuiting with track loops). I'd say go for which one seems more appealing.

With modding tho, it seems to me that all you'd really be keeping is the look of the set, because you'd have to pretty much take up one of the cars for the PF gear. and mod the baseplate for the wire to the PF motor.

[Legoboy22]

It is worth it because 9v will become increasingly rare and expensive

[ronenson]

It's definitely worth it. I found it fun to try and squeeze PF into 9v models or even convert the old 12v models into PF

[Lazarus]

I would say mix it up.

I use 9v track + some of my own made track (nikel silver rail)

I have my train with a 9v motor with internals replaced with the updated 9v motor that runs to a PF reciver so i can use the PF remove to control the train but it pulls the power from the track.

[THERIZE]

I would say mix it up.

I use 9v track + some of my own made track (nikel silver rail)

I have my train with a 9v motor with internals replaced with the updated 9v motor that runs to a PF reciver so i can use the PF remove to control the train but it pulls the power from the track.

So basically a some sort of controlling 9V trains independent?

[Lazarus]

Yup

I can go into more detail if people want, but this method can also be used for any pf motor.

Edited July 25, 2015 by Lazarus