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Here is one mine of the Outdoor Challenger:

666x500.jpg

Edited by LXF
Picture too big. Turned into link.

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e7qo5tkK1O4.jpg

note for moderator: This is photography thread. My pictures are the same size as other big pictures in this thread. Exmaple is in the top of this page.

Edited by rm8
Images too big. Turned into links.

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Here is my picture

800x600.jpg

*cough*teaser*cough* :wink:

Edited by JJ2

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I don't have a really good digital camera but I like that tip to shoot outdoor photos very much... This photo I am kind of pleased...

Ke82vwq.jpg

I think I will shoot lot more Technic Lego photos outdoor in the future :thumbup:

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ggdeu9ege196t1xzg.jpg

Upper shot - is the original, lower - with heavy ajusted curves and color balance. While adjusting curves reveal many details of black parts, red stays like flat for me( I seen same effect before, when shooting some red flowers outdoor. It is possible that LEGO red is out of RGB space of my camera?

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What do you mean with "flat for you"... if you adjust curves you make the shades and blacks more brighter... and while black is the darkest color there got you the most effect... what do you want to make with red? More shining? Like by saturation change?

Max...

Edited by MaxSupercars

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Put your monitor perpendicular of your eyes direction.

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What kind of light did you use? It could be that your lightsource is missing the red tones? Ever since the bulbs have been banned most LED/energy saving lamps are quite monochromatic and blueish, I suppose (but maybe some physicist can confirm) that that will make red more dull.

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Jeroen, you are right - it's lightsource. For previous photo i used energy saving warm lamp. With daylight same model looks much better in my opinion. And here is a clear difference between red and trans-orange parts. I have warm LED lamp, should try it too.

qd2hq6cnv5xwc5kzg.jpg

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Here are a couple of my photos. I use natural sunlight while shooting mostly indoors on a bench covered with glass. At the moment my equipment consists of an old Nikon D300 with an 17-50mm 2.8 lens from Tamron.15594601678_bd147cc3e2_b.jpgScrambler07 by Stephan Jonsson, on Flickr

14650315671_c6052b3c7b_b.jpgFrenzy02 by Stephan Jonsson, on Flickr

14737157658_a2a71ccdc5_b.jpgmoonshine_rocket08 by Stephan Jonsson, on Flickr

10836786613_cfef2a8492_b.jpgKawasaki KZ400 Tracker by Stephan Jonsson, on Flickr

13610408214_8926a907bf_b.jpgBlue Angel 09 by Stephan Jonsson, on Flickr

10606438494_d80164f80e_b.jpgW427 Hard Tail Bobber a.k.a Widowmaker by Stephan Jonsson, on Flickr

15214067473_66e865a7e8_b.jpgAphäng05 by Stephan Jonsson, on Flickr

15270094763_b776c98b9d_b.jpgFred_unlim02 by Stephan Jonsson, on Flickr

Edited by Jonsson

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Jeroen, you are right - it's lightsource. For previous photo i used energy saving warm lamp. With daylight same model looks much better in my opinion. And here is a clear difference between red and trans-orange parts. I have warm LED lamp, should try it too.

Hi Victor,

If your camera has a manual mode, I highly suggest trying it out. You can set your own white balance, control the over/under exposure and set many other options. Try playing with those two at first and looking at the results. Here are some suggestions about the first (non-adjusted) picture you took:

  • The picture is much too yellow, as shown by the "white" background. This can be controlled by adjusting the white balance. Look for a Tungsten or regular (non LED/CFL) bulb setting.
  • The blacks (tires, bottom of vehicle) look like they could use some more definition. You can overexpose the picture a bit and see if that helps. It will also overexpose your background, making it whiter. Don't go too far, because overexposing washes out colours, making them less vibrant. Some of this can be corrected with saturation in the post process.
  • Be careful with the post process. If you have a source picture that requires a lot of adjustments, it is easy to overcorrect some areas when fixing others. For example, while making the background white, you can make the blacks gray and non-natural looking. You managed to avoid this, but having played with your source picture here, I can't imagine it was easy. So the better the source picture, the less adjustments, the better the results.
  • Finally, try to step back from your result picture for and see how it looks on its own, not compared to what you started with. Your result has a much cleaner background, but could use a little bit less magenta/blue. This is noticeable on the gray IR receiver, exhaust tips, bottom of the picture where the shadow is located, and the roof panel. This can be adjusted in Gimp by playing with the saturation of specific colours in Hue-Saturation.

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BusterHaus, thanks for tips. I just forgot about white balance while shooting, my fault) I tryed to make any post process simple as possible - in this case this was Curves adjustments by three points - white, 50% gray and 25% gray, followed by adding magenta to reds. But all magenta/blue tones come from window daylight) I have very complex lighting setup, some kind of mess, yes)))

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Some really good photos here!

I was experimenting with taking night shots of my last small-scale build, and this one shot came as a nice surprise. It had a 10 second exposure, and while the shutter was open, I swung a green EL wire in the background. The most difficult part was getting the manual focus right since I only relied on the lighting from a few led's. The idea was to use a light painting technique in near complete darkness. The final result is almost un-Photoshopped, besides the text overlay and very slight brightness/contrast adjustment.

m_night_phoenix_sevenstuds_photo_06b.jpg

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