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Srbandrews

[MOC] LBSCR Stroudley A1 Terrier 0-6-0T

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Hi everyone,

Not much to say about this really. It's a fairly unremarkable build with no unusual or advanced techniques. There are more accurate versions of this loco out there, but I wanted to build one in Dark Tan and the part selection is really limited. I've had to make some concessions such as the buffer beam not being level with the running plate - that's quite a major feature of the prototype but it just couldn't be done as they would have simply been too high over the wheels.

That said, I think the colours do partly make up for the paucity of finesse.

16520518719_cab67b4218_c.jpg

16680429346_89da3cbbb5_c.jpg

Hornby version:

138919959841.JPG

Edited by Srbandrews

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This is pretty good, especially in light of the limited parts selections. If you used Big Ben Bricks medium drivers (a better fit given the size of the loco, I think), you would be able to lower the entire frame by 2 plates, allowing you to line up the running plate and buffer beam again.

Have you considered using clips and rods/flex tubing to make the connecting rods? That would lighten the visual "weight" of those rods, I think.

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Thanks. You're right about the wheels - I would get the running plate at a better height, but then the problem with the large drivers is really not so much the size (they're pretty much spot on for scale) as is it the inability to overlap them realistically through the splashers (and under the tank). Lego terriers I've seen with BBB medium wheels look a better height but then their wheels look too small, so you can't really win there. :(

For the side rods: it appears there is a red 3mm rigid hose in the correct length, but would that be too flexible? I can sort of imagine it being a bit flimsy. I'd certainly give it a try but I don't have any hose of the right length.

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Thanks. You're right about the wheels - I would get the running plate at a better height, but then the problem with the large drivers is really not so much the size (they're pretty much spot on for scale) as is it the inability to overlap them realistically through the splashers (and under the tank). Lego terriers I've seen with BBB medium wheels look a better height but then their wheels look too small, so you can't really win there. :(

Spot on for scale? I'm not sure what your intended scale was, but your wheelbase is 10 studs (consider the distance between the centers of the axles), relative to the real wheelbase of 12 feet. At that scale, the wheels would be:

48 inches (prototype driver diameter) * [10 studs / 144 inches] = 3.33 studs --> 26.67 mm.

The M drivers have a hub diameter of 24mm and a flange diameter of 30.4mm, compared to an L driver's diameters of 30.4mm (hub) and 36.8mm (flange). It seems like the M drivers would be closer, since the flange visually forms part of the diameter of the wheel on the model.

For the side rods: it appears there is a red 3mm rigid hose in the correct length, but would that be too flexible? I can sort of imagine it being a bit flimsy. I'd certainly give it a try but I don't have any hose of the right length.

The hose should be sufficiently rigid for this, in particular as it doesn't look like your locomotive is powered through the drivers so the only force going through the rods would be that needed to turn the drivers when the loco is pushed. If you're worried, you could insert some stiff wire inside the tubing, although I'm not sure if you count that as cheating.

Edited by jtlan

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Wow! Heaps of lovely details. I am really loving seeing things built with limited parts like dark tan.

I agree with jtlan that if you could slim down the siderods this for me would make it super excellent. :grin:

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Spot on for scale? I'm not sure what your intended scale was, but your wheelbase is 10 studs (consider the distance between the centers of the axles), relative to the real wheelbase of 12 feet. At that scale, the wheels would be:

48 inches (prototype driver diameter) * [10 studs / 144 inches] = 3.33 studs --> 26.67 mm.

The M drivers have a hub diameter of 24mm and a flange diameter of 30.4mm, compared to an L driver's diameters of 30.4mm (hub) and 36.8mm (flange). It seems like the M drivers would be closer, since the flange visually forms part of the diameter of the wheel on the model.

I was roughly going by minifig=6ft. That would put the 4ft wheels at 28mm. When the loco is on track, what I see as the diameter is the diameter of the wheel sans flange, so to my eye they do look closer. I'm not saying medium drivers would be a bad choice by any means, but personally I think they look too small, even if the lego large drivers do make the loco ride too high.

I'll definitely try the hoses-as-side-rods solution, though.

EDIT:

Wow! Heaps of lovely details. I am really loving seeing things built with limited parts like dark tan.

I agree with jtlan that if you could slim down the siderods this for me would make it super excellent. :grin:

Thanks. Like I said above, I'll try to get some red hose next time I order parts. I had to leave a few details out. The pipes and rails along the top of the boiler just distracted too much from the outline and shape when I tried to model them. I think one thing I will definitely be adding is a name on the boiler as that is a very dominant part of the original design. I'm not sure whether to go for Stepney (being the most famous), Brighton (being the Paris Exhibition Gold Medal Winner) or make up one that's apt for the naming convention but more unique to me, like I was thinking London Bridge perhaps. Still haven't worked out the best options for clear vinyl sticker printing so if anyone has any tips...

Edited by Srbandrews

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I was roughly going by minifig=6ft. That would put the 4ft wheels at 28mm. When the loco is on track, what I see as the diameter is the diameter of the wheel sans flange, so to my eye they do look closer. I'm not saying medium drivers would be a bad choice by any means, but personally I think they look too small, even if the lego large drivers do make the loco ride too high.

That seems reasonable. I don't have loco parts in front of me right now (much less your actual model), so I had to go off of theoreticals. I'm also surprised that normal slope bricks don't exist in dark tan ... is the color relatively new?

Another option for the side-rods is to use half-beams instead, although the rods will not all be in the same plane in that case.

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A cute model in a unique color, but I'm distracted by the difference between the two reds used in the frame/buffer/rod. I think it would be better to keep all of that in the same red, even if it's the less accurate normal red.

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A cute model in a unique color, but I'm distracted by the difference between the two reds used in the frame/buffer/rod. I think it would be better to keep all of that in the same red, even if it's the less accurate normal red.

Ah yes, I'd forgotted to mention that. Using two different reds was intentional but, following a mistake I made with colouring in LDD, I actually ordered some of the wrong parts. The sides of the buffer (1x1 snot bricks holding the Fez pieces) should be dark red and similarly so at the rear.

Cf: http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/LB%26SCR_A1X_class_55_Stepney#/media/File:55StepneyHorstedKeynes.JPG

Edited by Srbandrews

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Thanks lightningtiger.

I've been thinking I probably have enough engines for now and that it was time to concentrate on trying to build some rolling stock so thought it might be good to start on designing a late C19th light goods train for this to pull. To open: a rough sketch of a Stroudley curved-top goods wagon:

16715966992_40cf5c97b8_c.jpg

EDIT:

And victorian style tar wagon

16692146576_6fcec19734_c.jpg

Edited by Srbandrews

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Thanks Zephyr.

So, I'm normally not at all into modding lego pieces, but a while ago I bought a small set of acrylic paints to add some paintwork modifications to the components for the Star Wars X-Wing Miniatures Game and used about 0.1% of them and an idea struck me. I realise I'm probably going to be forced to relinquish my adulthood card when next discovered in public and I'm actually slightly embarrassed that I've done this, and yet at the same time quite pleased with the result:

16538432308_09dc30bc19_c.jpg

I've never liked the face of the TV series Stepney, so I went with the original book illustrations, which also meant being able to leave it with a hand-painted finish. http://ttte.wikia.co...owledOutRS5.png

Edited by Srbandrews

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Thanks Zephyr.

So, I'm normally not at all into modding lego pieces, but a while ago I bought a small set of acrylic paints to add some paintwork modifications to the components for the Star Wars X-Wing Miniatures Game and used about 0.1% of them and an idea struck me. I realise I'm probably going to be forced to relinquish my adulthood card when next discovered in public and I'm actually slightly embarrassed that I've done this, and yet at the same time quite pleased with the result:

==SNIP==

I've never liked the face of the TV series Stepney, so I went with the original book illustrations, which also meant being able to leave it with a hand-painted finish. http://ttte.wikia.co...owledOutRS5.png

Don't worry about what other people think about your paint job, as long as it look good to you, that's all that matters. I personally think it looks great, and realistic to the books your were referencing.

Let me tell you something I've never shared with anyone on the 'net: When I was very little, I loved Thomas, and still loved him into my early teens. I even went though a phase when I couldn't figure out how to build a Lego version of the British 9F named Murdoch from the TV show, so I had a little wooden track model and later, a plastic TOMY track model layout. I was about 13, when I did this, so it was very embarrassing to me to have the Thomas and Friends stuff in my room. About two years later I donated my TOMY track stuff toys to a Autistic Children / Adults recreation center, where my toys were played with by autistic children for many years.

I did keep the wooden Murdoch though, and years later I built a gray version of a 9F in LEGO. (thanks to Scotnick's wonderful LDD model) That beaten-up wooden 9F model was where I got my nickname / username, as that engines has a stenciled number on the side: 17. That's when I put two and two together: the homemade roster number and the name of the engine that carried it: Murdoch17.

I hope this little bit of background info helps you overcome your' embarrassment.

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I don't think the round plates for the window look that good.... They look a lot like eyeballs instead of windows...

They're not ideal. Usually I would have used the plane-type window pieces, but they don't come in a suitable colour. Same story for 1x3 arches, technic bricks with holes, you name it. For me, this was the best solution and I think they look ok considering but I'd be very happy to hear any other suggestions.

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Shamelessly bumping to show my progress in turning the loco into a train. I haven't done much making of rolling stock.

Some ideas in LDD:

16133967213_b5c7354e52_c.jpg

One mineral wagon:

16166766963_65b9fb9dd5_c.jpg

Edited by Srbandrews

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Thanks. Think I'll move on to the tar wagon for my next stage. Just weighing up various brake van styles. Not sure to go with a period-accurate Stroudley design, a later SR brake van, or a 'generic' design of my own.

Edited by Srbandrews

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