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Hey there, I've been looking to replace my old compact camera with a newer and better camera,

but after a while of searching, I still find myself getting lost in a sea of options, so I'd like to hear some recommendations

for good cameras. I've been eyeing DSLRs for a while, but I'm not sure if that would be worth it.

My budget isn't too high, I'd prefer to go for a camera around €200, and I'd be willing to push it up to €300 if there's something

really good for that price. The picture quality, of course, is of great importance to me, so the bigger the sensor, the better.

I'm looking for a camera that I can use to take great photos of LEGO (MOCs, figures, you name it) with and also one that would be proper for anything else,

but specifically bearing LEGO in mind for now. Would also be great if it were useful for things like Brickfilming, but that comes lower on the list of priorities.

I'd like to hear your recommendations & possible experiences with good cameras.

I'm not really an expert when it comes to stuff like this, so further tips would also be helpful and most welcome.

Thanks in advance!

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It really depends on what you're looking for in a camera. I know that you've listed some things.

My bias, since I've gone through a number of them is bridge cameras.

Some of the newer ones have wifi which will enable you to place a camera and shoot remotely controlling the camera with your phone.

Some features which may or may not be important to you to think about:

-Burst mode: If you have a train or something that's moving you can hold down the shutter button and it will take 10 shots with a second (camera has to have a fast processor to make that happen.

-Manual control. If you're shooting low light or purposely low light or LED lit lego at night scenes, reducing shutter speed and shooting a crisp night pic (I can post some examples in this thread when I get home, I have some pretty good night shots). Some cameras don't have this and you either get piles of noise (pixelly-blurr) or the flash goes off and the entire scene looks like daytime anyhow.

-Remote Shooting; If you want to do a stop motion video or progress shoot, this is almost necessary. Most cameras use cellphones or other devices, setup camera on tripod & go.

-Super Zoom shouldn't really apply unless you have a really long building and want to look through it or something.

If you just want a good-looking shot of your stuff a simple point & shoot (P&S camera) will do fine.

As an FYI on cameras (not sure where you are coming from so don't be insulted):

Point & shoot: cheapest & smallest: Typically come with a 3 - 10X optical zoom, flash. Will have a "macro mode" for up close stuff & be capable of HD video (most)

Bridge: Much bulkier, $250 USD-$500 USD: Typically 20X - 65X Optical zoom. Manual flash, capable of many manual functions, you can make see-thru lego (will try and do one for you tonight), capture motion, capture low-light, all sorts of fun stuff. The optical zoom will be more of a you're on vacation and . . . . Camera is bigger, but I use a cellphone for my day-to-day shooting, and then take the camera with me to "destinations." The ones with the swivel screen are great for placing the camera somewhere and shooting "blindly." Especially if you want to hold the camera above your head (look mom - no ladder)

DSLR: Most expensive, biggest, most difficult to use ($400++ USD camera body and lenses come seperate): Everything is manual. Lots of people don't know this who don't use them. You cannot use the screen at the back to take pictures, only review them. I'm going to say that this will NOT be your camera.

Decide on what you want for options, and then narrow down between brands and what works best for you. And I'm sure others will help you along the way.

I use a Canon SX40 (younger brother to the SX60 currently on the market)

Edited by Breakdown

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I think you could look at a ILC (Interchangeable Lens Camera) or DSLR as options. With them you can select the lens best suited to the photography you're shooting. You'll have to factor in the costs of lens. Sensor size may not matter too much for shooting LEGO in controlled conditions (proper lighting, etc.). If you're doing brickfilming, you should look for a camera that can be tethered to and controlled by your computer. It'll make the workflow much easier. I think it is mentioned before, get one that has manual mode for shutter speed, aperture, ISO, exposure comp., white balance, etc. Do you prefer working with a optical viewfinder, LCD screen or EVF (electronic viewfinder)? I think best bet is to go to a good camera store and try out different models of cameras and see which one fiits you, your style, menu, controls, comfort in your hands, etc.

I use a DSLR because I also shoot my kids in action/sports so fast accurate autofocus and response is a must. But it is big, bulky and heavy. And lugging a bag of big lenses around may not be everyone's thing. But it's worth it when I don't miss that "money" action shot.

Actually, you can use the LCD in the back of DSLRs to take pictures. Newer ones have Live View mode or something similar. I see parents using it at my kids event. They would be better to hold the the DSLR to their face and use the viewfinder for more steady shooting. The consumer entry DSLRs have many automatic or scene modes. The more advanced DSLRs don't have them and expect you to know what you're doing.

Lots of options out there, usually boils down to how much you can spend.

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The budget you mentioned will not take you out of the P&S range, unless you’re willing to buy used DSLR. The difference in image quality and overall photographic experience between P&S and DSLRs is incredible, I strongly recommend you try to push the budget a little further, get an entry level DSLR from Canon or Nikon and fall in love with the awesome hobby of photography… trust me, you won’t regret it, and you’ll never look back at any P&S again.

However, if you’re going to stick to the P&S for budget reasons then why don’t you take a look at the Canon SX520 or something in the same category, it has incredible zoom range, high resolution sensor and it shoots full HD videos, everything you need basically for cheap price, and the bigger glass it has will always deliver better quality than the tiny glass on smaller P&S cameras.

Another midway option is to look for the highly regarded Sony RX100; it has a much bigger sensor than P&S cameras and it sports a very high quality and bright Zeiss glass. It produces image quality that’s very close to DSLRs in base ISO, and it has very high quality construction. It’s the camera most professionals I know carry around for travel and personal use, so if you found one for a reasonable price, less than 400$, just buy it.

There is always the interchangeable lens mirror-less offerings from Sony, for the budget you mentioned an a5000 with kit lens will be 1000000 times better than any P&S, with DSLR size sensor, 20 MP, full HD video and the ability to change lens to suit your needs. I’m not too crazy about Sony lens system since they seem to change things too often; I’d rather go for Nikon or Canon if it’s going to be an interchangeable lens system.

Edited by Khaled Yousef

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I feel a bit underqualified with my answer, but...

I am no pro, but in my neighbourhood many who know better than I do use the cheap Canon Powershot S110. I got it for 230 Euro. Many of my friends have praised this. It works quite well with little light and I also like using it for videos on holiday.

I point it at the LEGO I want to take a picture of and then I press the button. Sometimes in super macro, it doesn't get everything sharp, but this I feel could be avoided if I read the manual.

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it doesn't get everything sharp, but this I feel could be avoided if I read the manual.

Okay, you got a good laugh out of me on a Monday. I'm constantly telling my dad (who's tried EVERYTHING) read the manual. It's all in the manual. He drives me insane constantly asking about non-sense. I too am guilty of this at times, sometimes I'm a little too visual with how I learn.

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LegoCameraTest.jpg

Here's an example of extreme low light picture taking with ghosting effect (other than auto-balancing the colours a little) zero editiing was done to this photo. The overlapping plane tail logos was an unexpected surprise.

I like Khaled's suggestion. It's all about what you want in a camera and your budget . . . and if you're willing to go used, or must buy new.

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Nice shot Breakdown. You mentioned you used the Canon SX40, which is very similar to the one I suggested: the SX520, both are awesome cameras and he can get for very cheap now and enjoy their versatility and slightly improved image quality over smaller P&S cameras, as it seems, the noise in this low-light photo is very well under control (which ISO setting were you on?), and the color aberration is not bad either (no purple fringing in the 1*1 trans-clear plates on the runway), so it seems that the Canon SX line’s inner software does a good job fixing its shortcomings.

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Nice shot Breakdown. You mentioned you used the Canon SX40, which is very similar to the one I suggested: the SX520, both are awesome cameras and he can get for very cheap now and enjoy their versatility and slightly improved image quality over smaller P&S cameras, as it seems, the noise in this low-light photo is very well under control (which ISO setting were you on?), and the color aberration is not bad either (no purple fringing in the 1*1 trans-clear plates on the runway), so it seems that the Canon SX line’s inner software does a good job fixing its shortcomings.

The SX520 has the super zoom but despite it being 3 or 4 years newer than the SX40 has an inferior downstep processor, in burst mode it's actual full-picture capabilities are about 1/3rd of the SX40. For very few shortcomings, the SX520 is excellent value if nothing else.

I didn't want to screw around with many settings, since I was at a hockey game tonight. I think that's actually ISO800, which probably if nothing else killed my photo quality, 8.0 second exposure time though. I counted to six before removing the plane. Hard to tell if my hand/arm left any traces in the picture.

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Now that you mentioned it, I too recommend the SX40 over the SX520, only if he could find a new one now, it’s hard to find now since it’s a much older model, and it’s also a little bit more expensive than the newer one, but it’s still within his range. SX40 has viewfinder, tilting screen and hot-shoe among other things the SX520 lacks, and I bet the SX40’s bigger pixels perform better in low-light.

I think the SX40’s upgrade would be the SX50 and SX60 not 520, the SXxx models seem to be on a higher level than the SXxxx ones, yet I didn’t recommend the 50 or 60 because they’re very expensive for cameras in this category. The 40 is a better option. (Ninja’d while editing by Breakdown)

And ISO 800! It looks very clean for a camera with such a small sensor. This one seems to be an awesome camera after all.

General Magma: can you tell us which camera do you own now so we can assess which one would be considered an adequate upgrade?

Edited by Khaled Yousef

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Now that you mentioned it, I too recommend the SX40 over the SX520, only if he could find a new one now, it’s hard to find now since it’s a much older model, and it’s also a little bit more expensive than the newer one, but it’s still within his range. SX40 has viewfinder, tilting screen and hot-shoe among other things the SX520 lacks, and I bet the SX40’s bigger pixels perform better in low-light.

And ISO 800! It looks very clean for a camera with such a small sensor. This one seems to be an awesome camera after all.

General Magma: can you tell us which camera do you own now so we can assess which one would be considered an adequate upgrade?

SX50 is the newer version of the SX40, as much as I've heard it's identical, but 50X zoom over 35X zoom, same image processor, everything. They just cleared most of those out in November, the SX60 is the next Canon Superzoom flagship, but it's around $500 USD right now. The SX520 is a fine piece, it's just short a few features, some of those features might not be remotely important to the average Joe.

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I'd go for a DSLR, purely because its far more usefull. You can spend alot or a little on lenses but it extends the usefullness of the camera beyond initiall ideas of use. You might be into macro today, but maybe wildlife or landscapes in a years time, rather than get a new camera, you just buy a new lense.

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Good day all, and apologies for the late response. Thanks for all the responses and help so far!

The replying progress will begin now. I won't have a lot of time so I'll likely have to respond to the remaining posts later on.

It really depends on what you're looking for in a camera. I know that you've listed some things.

If you just want a good-looking shot of your stuff a simple point & shoot (P&S camera) will do fine.

Decide on what you want for options, and then narrow down between brands and what works best for you. And I'm sure others will help you along the way.

I use a Canon SX40 (younger brother to the SX60 currently on the market)

Thanks for all the information! The "ghost effect" in that plane picture looks great, would be nice to have a camera with options to do something like that.

Though I'm not too sure I would be satisfied with a Point-and-Shoot camera. Maybe I'm putting too much value on "super HD-looking quality shots",

so something closer to being within my budget may eventually suffice. I had no idea that everything done with DSLRs had to be done manually,

I always prefer being able to see the picture I'm about to take before taking it. Add to that the price and it may not be my camera after all, indeed.

I might just have to look for a "bridge camera", but the options are endless, hard not to get lost in a sea of cameras asking you to buy them! :laugh:

I think you could look at a ILC (Interchangeable Lens Camera) or DSLR as options. With them you can select the lens best suited to the photography you're shooting. You'll have to factor in the costs of lens. Sensor size may not matter too much for shooting LEGO in controlled conditions (proper lighting, etc.). If you're doing brickfilming, you should look for a camera that can be tethered to and controlled by your computer. It'll make the workflow much easier. I think it is mentioned before, get one that has manual mode for shutter speed, aperture, ISO, exposure comp., white balance, etc. Do you prefer working with a optical viewfinder, LCD screen or EVF (electronic viewfinder)? I think best bet is to go to a good camera store and try out different models of cameras and see which one fiits you, your style, menu, controls, comfort in your hands, etc.

I use a DSLR because I also shoot my kids in action/sports so fast accurate autofocus and response is a must. But it is big, bulky and heavy. And lugging a bag of big lenses around may not be everyone's thing. But it's worth it when I don't miss that "money" action shot.

Actually, you can use the LCD in the back of DSLRs to take pictures. Newer ones have Live View mode or something similar. I see parents using it at my kids event. They would be better to hold the the DSLR to their face and use the viewfinder for more steady shooting. The consumer entry DSLRs have many automatic or scene modes. The more advanced DSLRs don't have them and expect you to know what you're doing.

Lots of options out there, usually boils down to how much you can spend.

A DSLR <i>sounds</i> good to me, though the price of a camera and then the price of different lenses is making me doubt a bit,

as well as the apparent complications that may arise when using it - from what I've heard, at least.

I'm not sure about the differences between the viewfinders, but if anything, I'd like to be able to see the picture I've taken on a large enough screen,

and as said by Breakdown, DSLRs apparently don't have that. What is the actual difference between ILCs and DSLRs, overall? Or are they somewhat similar?

Lots of options - too many, actually - but maybe not a lot to spend, in reality.

Being able to take great, clear pictures of my LEGO stuff, landscapes (and perhaps a combination of the two) without graininess

would be the most important thing here. I probably won't really be doing any shots of bypassing trains or stuff like that.

I don't have a huge problem with bigger, bulkier cameras (I think!), but being able to hold them without dropping them would be nice. :tongue:

More camera recommendations are welcome - as for specific cameras, especially,

and I'll respond to the rest later when I can find some time again. Thanks everyone!

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I had no idea that everything done with DSLRs had to be done manually,

It doesn't, virtually all DSLR's have an automatic mode (as well as many others). Budget is clearly your main concern, you can get a starter DSLR for as little as £200-£300 most come with a lens or two. Then in a few years time you can ebay it and upgrade the body to something better, but keep the lenses.

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A DSLR <i>sounds</i> good to me, though the price of a camera and then the price of different lenses is making me doubt a bit,

as well as the apparent complications that may arise when using it - from what I've heard, at least.

I'm not sure about the differences between the viewfinders, but if anything, I'd like to be able to see the picture I've taken on a large enough screen,

and as said by Breakdown, DSLRs apparently don't have that. What is the actual difference between ILCs and DSLRs, overall? Or are they somewhat similar?

For all DLSR's you can view your pics after you've taken them on the big screen on the back of the camera. Many or most you cannot view the pic as you are taking it without using the viewfinder.

I advised a friend of mine not to buy a Canon SX520 (he was looking for it to take to hockey games for pics) for Lego . . . . for your budget, for what you want to do. I think that camera or the equivalent from other manufacturers will do the trick.

It is missing features like: a good burst mode (you hold down the shutter button and get a true 10 pictures per second for action) and you don't get Wi-Fi connectivity and and some other things, but for taking Lego pics, family pics, some decent versatility on a budget, it's probably what you want.

I will tell you this. Canon and others probably look at Cameras like the SX520 as a loss-leader for their brand. You buy the camera at a fantastic price point and they hope that you'll be satisfied, but wanting more features and come back to buy one of their more expensive cameras. Unless you're going to increase your budget, I would go with a "Budget Bridge camera" which would be at the bottom end of the bridge cameras, but significantly more versatile than any point and shoot cameras.

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I haven't been able to post replies here for a while, but now that I've got the time again, and I'm back - and I feel that I really should finalize my search and go for a camera, though I'm still having doubts about some.

For all DLSR's you can view your pics after you've taken them on the big screen on the back of the camera. Many or most you cannot view the pic as you are taking it without using the viewfinder.

Ah alright, that should be fine then. Before I proceed, is there anyone here who has experience with either the Nikon D3100, D3200 or D3300? I've been considering getting one of those, preferably the cheaper variants. Would that be a good choice, or should I try looking into it a bit more?

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I haven't had any experience with those particular models but have used their bigger brothers (D7000 and D7200). Based on my experience with Nikon, and the reviews I've seen about he D3XXX series, I think any of them would suit your purpose well. As others have pointed out, the best thing about DSLRs is that you can always upgrade your body later and use your lenses with the new body. The creative options that a DSLR provides just can't be matched by a point and shoot. They say a good photographer can create a good photo with any camera. That's undoubtedly true but I also think that a good camera can make you a better photographer, if for no other reason than it makes the hobby fun which leads you to use it more, and any good photographer will tell you that the more you use your camera, the better your pictures will become.

I'd recommend getting a used copy of whatever one you can find for the cheapest price and pick up a 18-55 kit lens, if the camera body doesn't come with a lens. It's a decent, yet very cheap lens, that will get you started. Then add a beginners book that can explain the concepts of ISO, shutter speed, aperture, and depth of field in a way that makes sense to you, and start shooting.

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I haven't had any experience with those particular models but have used their bigger brothers (D7000 and D7200). Based on my experience with Nikon, and the reviews I've seen about he D3XXX series, I think any of them would suit your purpose well. As others have pointed out, the best thing about DSLRs is that you can always upgrade your body later and use your lenses with the new body. The creative options that a DSLR provides just can't be matched by a point and shoot. They say a good photographer can create a good photo with any camera. That's undoubtedly true but I also think that a good camera can make you a better photographer, if for no other reason than it makes the hobby fun which leads you to use it more, and any good photographer will tell you that the more you use your camera, the better your pictures will become.

I'd recommend getting a used copy of whatever one you can find for the cheapest price and pick up a 18-55 kit lens, if the camera body doesn't come with a lens. It's a decent, yet very cheap lens, that will get you started. Then add a beginners book that can explain the concepts of ISO, shutter speed, aperture, and depth of field in a way that makes sense to you, and start shooting.

Sounds like something I could try, finding used copies of the cameras. At this point, I'm mostly interested in having a good camera to shoot great pictures of MOCs and figures,

something comparable to the picture quality seen on pictures of creations made by the more popular MOCers, if an example is needed. And then also for casual use,

hobby-photography if good enough, but mainly LEGO pictures now, really.

Either way, thanks for all the advice & suggestions so far, everyone. I'm still looking for the best option, (though I'm doubting very much and maybe even overthinking this),

so any other recommendations would still be welcome, and otherwise I'll be looking into finding used copies of the cameras I've been thinking of purchasing.

I'm still wondering whether I should actually even go with a DSLR in the end or not.

Also, as an edit, is there anybody here who has experience with the Nikon D3200? It seems I may be able to get a used one for $270 with a 35mm lens, could be a fair enough deal,

but I don't think I'll be able to trust this, because of the amount of money involved here. That would leave me with having to spend about $400 or more for the same camera, $450 if I want that same lens..

Edited by General Magma

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I'm always using my sony DSC-HX60. Compact, wifi, high quality, panorama, filming. Only problem is the mic. But lego minifigures don't talk so that wont be a problem:)

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With good light and a tripod, I find I can get a pretty good shot out straight out of a DSLR without any post processing other than resizing and watermark. I don't have the patience or skills to spend hours in Photoshop. There is a bit of learning curve with DSLRs, I think the results are worth it.

17507959573_951a5af1b5.jpgFencing Lunge by dr_spock_888, on Flickr

You can also on flickr see what kind of camera (and lens) your favorite MOCers are using (if they didn't hide or remove the EXIF information).

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I would also go for a DSLR, and don't be afraid to buy a second hand one, usually they are good! I bought a Nikon D200 body for just £ 200, and simple lenses start at about £ 50. The good ILC camera's are actually quite a lot more expensive that that. But the big advantage of the latter, of course, is that they are also much smaller and lighter. I hope you'll find something you like!

Since this is a thread about photography: I wonder where you guys store your pictures? My computer harddisk is getting full, and I have them on an external harddisk, but I just wanted to find a secon option as a back-up. Maybe an online cloud service? Hope this is not too much off-topic!

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There seems to be a bit of misinformation here. Many, if not all, DSLRs now have full auto mode (not that you want to use it though), and the ability to use the screen to view what you are shooting. My nearly five year old Canon T2i can do both.

I use my old T2i for taking pictures and video of my Lego creations. I've been pretty happy with the pictures it takes, but I'll be upgrading to something better in the near future. The lens I was using seemed a bit soft, but I picked up a 50mm prime which seems much sharper.

Proper lighting is also important for good LEGO photos.

I would suggest picking up a DSLR and a 50mm "nifty fifty" prime lense (they are about the cheapest lense out, but they are actually pretty good).

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