Duq

To buy or not to buy: The 60051 Passenger Train

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I love the 60051 high speed passenger train. (I'm an AFOL) It is only my 2nd train set, after the Holiday Train, and my first foray into the modern power function train system.

I'm currently sourcing parts to not only add two more passenger cars but also to stretch all three passenger cars to a 28 stud length. (The only thing I didn't like about the set was how short the middle car looks relative to the engines on each end). I was intending to post pics when I'm done.

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I think the Passenger train is ugly. I really don't like that one-big-mold nose. I also really don't need more curved track or remote controls so I figured I wouldn't buy the new passenger train.

Duq, I agree with you completely. Lego passengertrains never look too good, in my opinion. That is, the modern ones. The Emerald Night is ofcourse a superb example of how TLC should design their passengertrains. And, okay, the Horizon Express is a bit of an exception. But it has more brick parts to build a decent front of the train. Generally speaking the Lego freighttrains look much better.

On the other hand, what's wrong in MOCing your own passengertrain from a real-life model?

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I also think it is ugly but is it worth it as a good source of parts if you don't have any train parts?

Way I see it, it's a bunch of wheels, a few carriage bases and an RC motor. If the motor is worth it is the biggest deciding factor for me.

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I wasn't sure if I wanted to buy the Cargo Train (60052) due to limited budget and a desire to collect the Modulars. I have been wanting to get it mainly for the power functions. I have had the Horizon Express sitting idle for over a year now. Tonight I was in a local Target and found the Cargo Train set for $140. I had planned to get another Modular in March during double VIP points, but I couldn't pass this deal. Looks like my HE will be up and running soon. I will probably use the other parts to try some MOC trains.

First post on EB. Let me know if anyone else thinks this was a good deal.

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I just elected to buy two of these.

One's gonna be opened right away (as early as tomorrow) the price is just too good.

The second one to barter for other cool lego things in the future or Christmas gift for my favourite nephew (it's okay to have a favourite, he's also my only nephew).

Newest train that I've owned since 7720 & 7745 (circa 1985) I'm thinking of converting to 12V, or trying to run on the 12V tracks, but I have some spots without appropriate clearance height wise and aside from that will struggle with room for the huge nose on this bad boy. I also hate the one piece nose.

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It clips the switch on the 12V points.

BTW - where the doors at??

BTW2 - excuse the lego mess in the room and damn did that train speed up!

Edited by Breakdown

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I brought one just today. Finished putting it together not too long ago. It is the only (major) set I have brought since coming out of my dark ages that isn't Star Wars - I spend heaps on Bricklink and buy little odds and end sets for parts but no big TLG sets. I brought it mainly because I wanted to start mucking around with LEGO Train stuff and this was the cheapest way for me to get a bit of everything train related.

It looks better than I thought it would. If you ignore that it has no doors and no detail, it does capture the look of a standard modern city train. If I wanted to build up to a city train, in a city layout, you could MOC this into something decent (which I have noticed a few people round the traps have done).

The track is seriously undernourished. I put the station on the inside anyway, coz I could see the train was going to hit it on the outside without trying. Anyways, after fearing I had a broken motor - nothing worked until I plugged the motor direct into the blue connection of the IR - then it started up and wouldn't stop. So I caught the train before it went too far, plugged the motor back into the right place (as shown on the instructions) and it all seemed to work. I only had the lead car/loco made at this stage, so took it for a spin with the remote - as soon as I got to speed setting 5, it flew of the track and into the wall. I can't take it past speed 4 without it leaving the track, is this normal? I gather if I had more track I could get the train up to a faster speed but flying of the provided track at half speed seems a bit of an oversight to me - of course every kid is going to try and do exactly what I did and pump up the speed (as well as running over that hipster minifig with his manbag :D ).

TLDR - My high speed train is too high speed for the track provided.

Edited by ummester

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I can't take it past speed 4 without it leaving the track, is this normal?

That is normal. It's because the default Lego track geometry is too small to handle trains at high speed. The only way around this is to run your train slower or purchase wider curves from 3rd parties such as ME Models.

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That is normal. It's because the default Lego track geometry is too small to handle trains at high speed. The only way around this is to run your train slower or purchase wider curves from 3rd parties such as ME Models.

What about never running 2 curves in a row, like always laying a straight after a curve (not that I have any track :) but for those that do) would this let you get the trains up to stop speed and hold there?

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What about never running 2 curves in a row, like always laying a straight after a curve (not that I have any track :) but for those that do) would this let you get the trains up to stop speed and hold there?

This has mixed results. Depending on the train length, center or gravity and weight it may or may not remain on the track. However often the problem is the jerk that occurs at the beginning of the curve and using the alternating geometry method introduces more opportunities for this to occur.

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This has mixed results. Depending on the train length, center or gravity and weight it may or may not remain on the track. However often the problem is the jerk that occurs at the beginning of the curve and using the alternating geometry method introduces more opportunities for this to occur.

So, the solution to getting a train to remain stable at higher speeds is increase the weight at the centre of gravity - put some lead in there or something? I guess this would then (counterproductively) slow the motor down :D

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It's all a compromise... I honestly couldn't afford the extra space that larger radius curves would take, but that means controlling the speed of the train. Just add more cars to it, and it will slow down :)

Question: how much does the nose 'lean out' in a curve? If you have both this one and the horizon express, how do they compare?

(I'm just talking about space needed around a curve, not anything else)

I love the HE, but just like the wonderful Emerald Night, it requires more careful planning of side tracks, tunnel entrances, platforms and so on to avoid a mess.

Cargo trains, including the Maersk, are more 'standard' in the space they take, even when they happen to have an 8-wide section.

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On the other hand, Lego train sales seem to be suffering

What is this based on? The fact they made another train this year which seems to me there is demand for expensive trains.

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Question: how much does the nose 'lean out' in a curve? If you have both this one and the horizon express, how do they compare?

(I'm just talking about space needed around a curve, not anything else)

I love the HE, but just like the wonderful Emerald Night, it requires more careful planning of side tracks, tunnel entrances, platforms and so on to avoid a mess.

Cargo trains, including the Maersk, are more 'standard' in the space they take, even when they happen to have an 8-wide section.

Looked about 3-4 studs - I could set up something to measure it tonight. You could fix it by changing the forward trucks position and pivot - put it on a turntable or something.

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Looked about 3-4 studs - I could set up something to measure it tonight. You could fix it by changing the forward trucks position and pivot - put it on a turntable or something.

My HE engine nose sticks out 3.5 studs from the end of the tie going around a standard LEGO curve.

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So, the solution to getting a train to remain stable at higher speeds is increase the weight at the centre of gravity - put some lead in there or something? I guess this would then (counterproductively) slow the motor down :D

Ideally the center of gravity will be as low as possible which can be achieved two ways. Adding weight as low as you can and lightening any components above the centre of gravity. Considering this train is pretty lean already the first option would be easier but will probably slow the train anyway.

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My HE engine nose sticks out 3.5 studs from the end of the tie going around a standard LEGO curve.

Just checked 60051 - it is just less than 3 from the track and 2 from the edge of the 8 wide track plate. It achieves this because the front is very curved.

What is the end of the tie?

Ideally the center of gravity will be as low as possible which can be achieved two ways. Adding weight as low as you can and lightening any components above the centre of gravity. Considering this train is pretty lean already the first option would be easier but will probably slow the train anyway.

I don't plan to keep this set as is long term, I want to design my own trains. I do find it quite enjoyable that any design process will have to incorporate an understanding of the functionality.

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but flying of the provided track at half speed seems a bit of an oversight to me

In the past AFOL train fans have suggested the speed be lowered to avoid crashes and were very politely informed that it was deliberate as kids like crashes. It's a feature.

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In the past AFOL train fans have suggested the speed be lowered to avoid crashes and were very politely informed that it was deliberate as kids like crashes. It's a feature.

So is an 8-12 train easier to crash than a 16 + train :laugh:

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So is an 8-12 train easier to crash than a 16 + train :laugh:

Since the 16+ trains come without a motor that is correct :tongue:

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Just checked 60051 - it is just less than 3 from the track and 2 from the edge of the 8 wide track plate. It achieves this because the front is very curved.

What is the end of the tie?

I don't plan to keep this set as is long term, I want to design my own trains. I do find it quite enjoyable that any design process will have to incorporate an understanding of the functionality.

Ties are wooden blocks that run perpendicular to the tracks on real train tracks, and the same on lego tracks but plastic (like the rails).

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Ties are wooden blocks that run perpendicular to the tracks on real train tracks, and the same on lego tracks but plastic (like the rails).

So the 2 x 8 stud 'plate' shape under the rail is the tie - cheers. This means, 60051's nose corners 2 studs wider than the tie. I guess it is the reason for those big moulded bits.

Then the primary factor determining how far any LEGO train model will protrude beyond the tie on corners is how many studs there are beyond the pivot of the forward truck and the secondary factor would be the shape of the train's front.

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