Photographing LEGO

[Hinckley]

So we don't end up with two different topics on the same discussion, I'll merge these two topis...

[Scouty]

i noticed that a lot of the pictures on the site are very brightly lit, and have this really nice white background, and I was just wondering how you guys do that. cause, all the pictures i have taken of lego so far are kinda blurry and very dark., also, i'd like to know where the white background comes from. like do you use a wall? or do u have a specially constructed "picture area" for your lego.

something like SirNadroj's photos of his minifigs, the whole background is white etc.

I think SirNadroj accomplishes this by raising the contrast and/or brightness too.

It does look very nice!!

[I Scream Clone]

Most helpful guys! I have been using white backgrounds with some wooden boards I had lying around, but now have built a 40 x40x 40 corner and hope to learn more about lighting.

Good Photos On!

[JopieK]

I bought a light tent to make LEGO pictures last year. I just make sure that there are two floodlights next to the tent at the left and right. That takes away most of the unwanted shadows.

It is like this one:

http://home.comcast.net/~kirchh/Misc/Light...h_Cube_Tent.jpg

but mine is a bit larger.

[Lego_Warlord_8]

Thanks for sharing! This really helped. One question though, what kind of store did you get the foamcore? Such as a craft store? If you can answer, that would be great. Oh, BTW, do you use fluorescent light bulbs? ~LW 8~

Edited July 16, 2009 by Lego_Warlord_8

[Yloquen]

Since the topic was revived , and I'm experimenting with photography at the moment I wanted to share something. It's called High Dynamic Range (HDR) Photography. What is it? First of all - what is dynamic range - it is the difference (or the ratio) between the brightest and the darkest tones you can discern. You may know that the dynamic range of the human eye is far greater than that of cameras. Thus, on pictures where you have large bright objects (which tend to define the exposure time), the darker areas seem too dark and lose detail. If you selectively brighten the shadows, you will also increase the noise in those areas. If you increase exposure time to get more detail in the "shadows", the bright areas wash out and lose detail. To remedy this - HDR photography could be used. An HDR image is composed by taking a few consecutive shots at different exposure levels, which are then combined via mathematical algorithms. At low exposure values, detail in the brightest objects are visible and at high exposure values, details in the darkest objects are visible.

The limitations of HDR arise from the requirement for consecutive shots – which means that only slowly changing (landscapes) or still objects (LEGOs – yay) can be used (supposedly, you can use a RAW to produce HDR from a single image, but it's only available on better cameras).

What you need – your normal photography setup, of course, a tripod to keep the camera still between shots, a function in your camera allowing you to set exposure and software. Photoshop can compose HDR images and there are other dedicated programs as far as I know.

Here is an example:

This picture has not been edited in any way, except setting the HDR parameters and sharpening it a bit. Bear in mind that it has been taken with a very cheap camera, so some aspects of it might still be lacking in quality, but it's noticeably more pleasant than the single image taken at normal exposure (EV 0). If your model is from dark colors only, it is very easy to make the background fully white, without losing detail or washing out the colors.

A tutorial (if someone is interested).

Hoping to see your HDR images soon.

[Bonaparte]

For my latest MOC I want to make perfect pictures, so I've started to build my own photo setup using 3 point lighting.

I've purchased all the required material:

- A big wooden plate (Ill cut this one in 4 pieces

- White paint and a brush (to paint the plate white)

- 3 lights (I took very strong ones, 300W each)

- 3 dimmers (to adjust the lights to the right level)

I hope to build the display in the next week and I'm really hoping these efforts will show in the picture quality when I present my next MOC.

My setup will be used to (amongst other stuff) photograph ships, so it has to be rather big.

[ProducePrincess]

Is it fine to just take pictures of lego vehicles outdoors on a rock or in the dirt instead of making a white background for it?

I was also thinking ,would a blue background work better than a white one if you use lots of editing.

[NewRight]

I've written a brief tutorial that can be read here for anyone interested in how I edit my photos.

[harrysnapperorgans]

I'm not sure if it's been covered in the thread, but are you ladies and gentlemen using a tripod at all?

My photography is pretty bad I must say, but I think my camera is pretty good, it's a Panasonic Lumix, with I think around 8-10 megapixels.

[WhiteFang]

I'm not sure if it's been covered in the thread, but are you ladies and gentlemen using a tripod at all?

My photography is pretty bad I must say, but I think my camera is pretty good, it's a Panasonic Lumix, with I think around 8-10 megapixels.

Tripod is strongly encourage, if you have one, as it helps to stablise the camera from a fixed angle while taking that picture. If you have shaky hands or unable to hold the camera firm, tripod is a must to help. Even with anti-shake mechanism, it doesn't really helps alot and yes, Panasonic Lumix with wide angle lens is a good digital camera to start with. In fact, most of the current cameras including SLRs are great photography equipment to work with. The lightning, background and stability play a part as well.

[Peppermint_M]

Does anyone know of a good camera with Macro Zoom? I am wondering whether I should get a camera with such a function (as it was advised by David Morgan Mar himself) when I upgrade my camera. However I am aware that it significantly adds to the price (or it seemed so last year when I first started looking for a camera) so do you, oh members of Eurobricks, know any cameras that are not too costly but have Macro Zoom?

[Big Cam]

Since the topic was revived , and I'm experimenting with photography at the moment I wanted to share something. It's called High Dynamic Range (HDR) Photography. What is it? First of all - what is dynamic range - it is the difference (or the ratio) between the brightest and the darkest tones you can discern. You may know that the dynamic range of the human eye is far greater than that of cameras. Thus, on pictures where you have large bright objects (which tend to define the exposure time), the darker areas seem too dark and lose detail. If you selectively brighten the shadows, you will also increase the noise in those areas. If you increase exposure time to get more detail in the "shadows", the bright areas wash out and lose detail. To remedy this - HDR photography could be used. An HDR image is composed by taking a few consecutive shots at different exposure levels, which are then combined via mathematical algorithms. At low exposure values, detail in the brightest objects are visible and at high exposure values, details in the darkest objects are visible.

The limitations of HDR arise from the requirement for consecutive shots – which means that only slowly changing (landscapes) or still objects (LEGOs – yay) can be used (supposedly, you can use a RAW to produce HDR from a single image, but it's only available on better cameras).

What you need – your normal photography setup, of course, a tripod to keep the camera still between shots, a function in your camera allowing you to set exposure and software. Photoshop can compose HDR images and there are other dedicated programs as far as I know.

Here is an example:

This picture has not been edited in any way, except setting the HDR parameters and sharpening it a bit. Bear in mind that it has been taken with a very cheap camera, so some aspects of it might still be lacking in quality, but it's noticeably more pleasant than the single image taken at normal exposure (EV 0). If your model is from dark colors only, it is very easy to make the background fully white, without losing detail or washing out the colors.

A tutorial (if someone is interested).

Hoping to see your HDR images soon.

Myself being a moderator of a photography forum, I can tell you don't exactly have the grasp of HDR photography. THe example you have is just a snapshot of LEGO with what looks to be not much editing, HDR photo's are heavily edited and usually are comprised of more than one copy of the same image. Like these examples below. HDR's usually have many exposures combined into one shot with quite a bit of editing.

Does anyone know of a good camera with Macro Zoom? I am wondering whether I should get a camera with such a function (as it was advised by David Morgan Mar himself) when I upgrade my camera. However I am aware that it significantly adds to the price (or it seemed so last year when I first started looking for a camera) so do you, oh members of Eurobricks, know any cameras that are not too costly but have Macro Zoom?

If you're serious then a DSLR is the only way to go. If you get an SLR then you can get specialized macro lenses. Otherwise if you are looking for a point and shoot digital camera, then most of their macro modes will provide roughly the same type of image.

[Yloquen]

Myself being a moderator of a photography forum, I can tell you don't exactly have the grasp of HDR photography. THe example you have is just a snapshot of LEGO with what looks to be not much editing, HDR photo's are heavily edited and usually are comprised of more than one copy of the same image. Like these examples below. HDR's usually have many exposures combined into one shot with quite a bit of editing.

The image shown was composed out of 3 (or 5, I don't remember) input images taken at different exposure values. The fact that it's not smeared, as some people like to do with their HDR images, either because there are moving objects, or for artistic reasons, does not make it any less HDR than the examples you have given.

Here are a few more HDR images, which use minimalistic approach to HDR (which I personally prefer):

by Happy Weasel

by IMAGES FROM MAN

Edited December 17, 2009 by Yloquen

[Swash Buckler]

Thanks for the tips.

What's going on here? X-D

This is a good idea to share photographing tips

I am very poor in taking photos sometimes i accidentally take some good ones Any tip how to get Photoshop for well... free or did you really buy it?- how much was that?

[Big Cam]

This is posted in the REviewers Academy but I figured I'd share here as well.

All the pictures in my reviews were taken in this little guy.

It is comprised of 4 pieces of foam board, so it's sturdy and white. I then cut a hole in each side, slightly smaller than a standard sheet of paper, then I cover the hole with a piece of white paper, and then i use two shop lights(not the best choice). If you are buying new lights, I suggest whiterlights like regular lamps, I just happen to have these sitting around and they make my photos very yellow at times but I edit that out. A regular lamp witha pure white bulb would make your editing process easier.

Then always remember to use your flash even with the lights. I use a DSLR camera with a high powered Nikon speedlight which I usually point upwards and bounce the light off of the white ceiling in my lightbox to create a more natural feel. The two lamps provide side coverage and fills everything in.

I hope this helps someone, feel free to ask me any questions.

[Ricecracker]

I'm planning on buying a DSLR this holiday season, and wanted your input. I was able to snag a Canon Rebel EOS XS on sale as well as a free accessory kit for it. What do you think of it? What would you recommend if I were to get something instead?

[cagri]

I made a "how to shoot photos" guide for my LUG but it's in Turkish and I don't feel like translating it now. But here's some demonstration for a cheap setup. Three cardboards, two desktop lamps, one window. That's what I have been using so far and you can see from my creations that they give you good enough results. I'm also using a 4 year old video camera, so you don't even need a high-end fancy photo camera.

[Big Cam]

I'm planning on buying a DSLR this holiday season, and wanted your input. I was able to snag a Canon Rebel EOS XS on sale as well as a free accessory kit for it. What do you think of it? What would you recommend if I were to get something instead?

Well the Nikon vs. Canon debate will go on forever. I for one am not hardcore either way. I went with Nikon because alot of my friends did and so that's what i got familiar with.

An EOS XS is a GREAT staring point. There are much nicer cameras but they are much MUCH more expensive. The XS is considered and "entry level" DSLR, but don't feel bad, they still have lots and lots of features and capabilites that will just completely destroy any P&S camera you have ever used.

DSLR's are kind of a different world as they produce RAW files as opposed to simple Jpeg's. You can still have it produce Jpeg's but that kind of defeats the purpose.

With a RAW file you have much more control when editing in programs like Photoshop. All my pics in my review's were taken as RAW files, edited in PS and then saved as Jpegs to post to the forums.

I don't want to get off on a lecture so I'll stop. The camera you are looking at goes for around $450-500 (US dolars) if you can get it for around that OR less, you're getting a good deal, and I say go for it. I assume it comes with the 18-55m lens which is a great standard lens to have.

Oh ya, make sure you are getting a lens, DSLR's are often sold without one, this would be an expensive mistake if you overlooked it. otherwise pic one up, take some pics, play around with it and read the manaul, there is so much to be done with these cameras but they are at times complicated, understanding aperature and shutter speed is critical.

[Ricecracker]

DSLR's are kind of a different world as they produce RAW files as opposed to simple Jpeg's. You can still have it produce Jpeg's but that kind of defeats the purpose.

With a RAW file you have much more control when editing in programs like Photoshop. All my pics in my review's were taken as RAW files, edited in PS and then saved as Jpegs to post to the forums.

That's good to know, thanks.

I don't want to get off on a lecture so I'll stop. The camera you are looking at goes for around $450-500 (US dolars) if you can get it for around that OR less, you're getting a good deal, and I say go for it. I assume it comes with the 18-55m lens which is a great standard lens to have.

I got it for $450 CAD plus a free accessory kit (carrying case, battery pack, UV filter), and yes, it includes the 18-55mm lens.

Since I can return it until January 3rd, I think I'm going to wait and see if there are any amazing boxing day sales on other cameras, and go from there.

Thanks again!

[Big Cam]

That's good to know, thanks.

I got it for $450 CAD plus a free accessory kit (carrying case, battery pack, UV filter), and yes, it includes the 18-55mm lens.

Since I can return it until January 3rd, I think I'm going to wait and see if there are any amazing boxing day sales on other cameras, and go from there.

Thanks again!

$450 CAD is a good price, adn you won't be dissapointed, even if you do just shoot in auto mode with Jpeg's, they come out so crisp, you'll love it.

[Davey]

That's good to know, thanks.

I got it for $450 CAD plus a free accessory kit (carrying case, battery pack, UV filter), and yes, it includes the 18-55mm lens.

Since I can return it until January 3rd, I think I'm going to wait and see if there are any amazing boxing day sales on other cameras, and go from there.

Thanks again!

The XS is a good starting point and will probably serve you well for quite awhile. I have found that with D-SLR's, the body is nowhere near as critical as the lens you use. I would recommend looking for a couple really good lens' as you have the money to purchase them (warning: they are EXPENSIVE). Stacy and I have these two and love them for photographing LEGO.

Canon EF-S 10-22mm USM

Canon EF-S 60mm Macro f/2.8

We're also considering purchasing a Canon MT-24EX macro flash.

Another good 'do it all' lens is the Canon EF 24-105mm f/4 IS USM.

I know the prices are a shock but the better lens really does make a big difference. Especially when photographing something up close like LEGO.

-Dave

p.s. If you come to BW in 2010, I'll let you check out the two lens I mentioned above.

Edited December 17, 2009 by Cyclone Breezerider

[Big Cam]

Dave is right. Addig light creates a whole new ballgame, and lenses are the real player.

I've got my eye on the Nikon 35mm f/1.8 I can't wait for that crazy speed.

[Davey]

Dave is right. Addig light creates a whole new ballgame, and lenses are the real player.

I've got my eye on the Nikon 35mm f/1.8 I can't wait for that crazy speed.

MMM....prime lens at f/1.8. You're making me drool Big Cam!!! Oh...and you bring up a good point. Don't be afraid of prime lens for LEGO photography. The fixed focal length lens are usually WAY cheaper than a zoom and you can get much faster lens' in prime than zoom.

-Dave

[Bored Robot]

Anybody using a softbox? I've been using a couple parabolic reflectors and I'm wondering if softer light going into the lightbox would make a difference.

Edited December 21, 2009 by Bored Robot