Recommended Posts

@therealjustin

You made me check same pieces I have in red. And I wasn't very happy with what I have found. 6 pieces are not in that horrible shape, but they already developed tiny-tiny crack a little bit offset, like in your case. I've compared them with the others that are fine and there is a slight difference in color. Pieces in strong red - fine, pieces in lighter red (looks like more white or less red has been added) - with tiny cracks.

Looks like I received defective 42003 from 42000 set. :sceptic: Is it possible to request part replacement with such hard to see but already developing cracks?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, go to the Lego website and request replacements. I would also urge you to send an email to Lego letting them know that these parts are defective. The more we write the more they pay attention.

I sent an email last week and their reply was just a copy and paste message telling me to order new parts :angry: It doesn't matter how many new parts I order, they will ALL eventually crack due to poor design.

My solution for now was to file the axle holes on the still intact pieces using a needle file. I know it sounds insane but I think reducing the clutch force by even a little might help.

Edited by therealjustin

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Does this mean that technic models don't last ?

They last enough. My 8868 still works perfectly after 20 years (it lost a bit on shininess, but it was my fault for putting all the parts in one big bag)

Cracking parts is not good news, but It can be mostly avoided if parts are sorted and not under pressure or tension or whatever....any force.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Does it mean that if I open a set from 2013, it will have cracked parts?

No, it will not. Parts only crack like this from stress. If you are opening a mint set, all parts should be intact.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My 42009 has developed cracks on nearly every connector part with an axle hole except for beams. Lego sent me a few replacement parts for my 8420 and 8272 and in the letter they sent along with the parts they said contact them again if something else should come up. Well...I just placed an order for 64 various connectors so let's see what they do :laugh:

I urge everyone to check for these stress fractures. The cracks are small and are seen best when a black axle is inserted into the axle hole. You may not even notice them until you feel the lack of friction.

Edited by therealjustin

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

After I was this topic I looked at all my collection, which I keep on display, and I do not see any cracked parts (and i have some old sets on display like 8275, 8285, etc). Maybe the parts cracking problem is linked to the storage conditions (temperature, humidity, etc?). My 42009 is just perfect and it has been sitting untouched since I built it 1 years ago.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am also thinking the same about the storage conditions and how it affects the plastic.

I am thinking about the new sets 42042 and 42043 and how this will affect the plastic.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just disassembled the Unimog (8110). And although I didn't pay any attention to any specific areas for cracks, I didn't notice any large and easily noticeable cracks as shown on the connector of 8070 on the first post of this thread. I will probably go have a look and forcefully search for any cracks. I kept my Unimog in a closet with sliding doors, so it was dark in there but not air tight (easy air flow in and out because of weak sliding doors). I also kept a thick folded towel under the Unimog to support it, and not allow the tires to touch the shelf (relive some stress from the model). And it has been doing this for 3 years. I have a question though. I took it apart and washed all the pieces with warm water and mild soap because some of the dust that collected on it would not come off if only using a cloth (the layers of dust formed like a impenetrable layer of sticky-ish dust). Now I put all the pieces in a large tub (once dried), that is fairly air tight. Should I remove it from the tub, since I hear people taking about pressure and humidity causing cracks? Please help. I wanna use these pieces to rebuild model 8258. And it is already costing me 280 CAD dollars to buy the extra missing pieces. I don't want to buy more because of broken Unimog pieces.

Edited by sama

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The parts cracking is, almost certainly, as described earlier in the thread multiple times, caused by the axle being a little too thick for the moulded opening.

This will cause a slight bending moment across the end of the part, which will eventually, probably spontaneously, shear, causing a crack to form.

Storage conditions do make a difference to Lego longevity, but the known issue is the poor resistance of ABS to ultraviolet. It is unlikely, but not impossible that humidity or pressure have any significant effect, at least within 'normal' ranges.

I looked and I have stacks of these broken connectors. The common cause is that all have been left assembled with axles in place. These models have been stored in a wide range of conditions (light, dark, hot, cold, varying temperature, constant temperature). I have hundreds of other connectors unused (no axle through them) that are not cracked.

Edited by andythenorth

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Literally just pulled out some perfect 32184's that had barely been used and most of them started to crack as soon as I inserted an axle :hmpf_bad:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

32039 is the latest victim :( The black 42039 that is used for the handlebars on the 8272 Snowmobile is cracked in the same place.

Lego came through with the replacement parts which was great, but if I use them they will start to crack eventually. They asked me to send some examples of the damaged parts and I plan on sending a lengthy letter explaining what I believe is the issue(too much grip force plus thin plastic).

16446719879_fdbe017639_b.jpg

16632511465_365e3afae6_b.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have had some success in repairing crack parts using ABS liquid or super glues.

Insert a axle into the part to open up the crack.

Usings syringe or fine paint bush apply the glue to the crack.

Immediately remove axle.

Squeeze part together and allow to dry.

Part now OK for light duties with friction hold resored.

I understand that you want to fix the part with no noticeable appearance with liquid super glue because it can seep in the cracks. My favorite epoxy to use is J-B weld. Now I never fixed these cracked LEGO parts with JB but I have fixed several things with it. (quick story) one of these things being a broken plastic caster wheel on a small movable night stand cabinet that was previously fixed with some kind of superglue, sure it was able to hold up the cabinet but that superglue didn't even hold the wheel together after when I pick It up and I set the cabinet down on the floor with all its weight on the broken wheel. I had no Idea the wheel was broken in the first place and now that the cabinet has been fix with JB weld I can sit on the cabinet; So yea I can certainly say that If you use JB to fix the cracked part It going to improve it strength. However the big difference behind J-B weld is it a tacky epoxy and you are not going to get that INVISIBLE finish fix on the part that you will with liquid super glue. JB weld works on the fact that if you cover more surface area the better the bond will hold the part together.

The old half bushings with the crown teeth were cracking like crazy. Almost all of mine are cracked.

Same here. Those old half bushings with the crown teeth are awesome parts. Tho I prefer the new half bushings for there designed purpose but those old ones were way ahead of its time.

Edited by Boxerlego

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just mended some grey 1L by 4L right angle lift beams which had a cracked axle X holes.

Using the method I described before I used "Pro-Weld" made by Ambroid Cal. USA which is suitable for ABS.

Obtainable from Model railroad shops for use with PlasticStruct etc..

Just need to open the crack slightly and let cappillary action take to liquid glue into the joint - then squeeze crack togeather, hold and its fixed.

Quick and easy to use, dries and cures very fast in 10 secs. with hardly any visible sign the part has been repaired.

No use for bushes as contact area is too small.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This thread gives me Lego nightmares :cry_sad:

Indeed.........

Not heard of this cracking stuff before....but i am only into Lego for the last 18 months and all my sets were bought or built from brand new parts.

I guess if sets do develop cracking its a good excuse to tear down those old sets for a good dusting and replace parts and do a fresh build.

If there is an upside..........

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

While dusting my 8070 today I noticed that a bushing felt loose. Once I examined it closer I could see that the entire part had cracked in multiple places and one section was so loose that it fell off! This was a brand new, unused part left over from my 42009 spare parts and was only used as a stop on an axle that never saw any stress.

I have to mention that I mailed about fifty cracked parts to LEGO a few months ago and never received an email or letter about the issue. I hope they are taking this seriously but I fear it has gone unnoticed. I only want to make a great product that I love even better.

18444397112_586dfb0492_b.jpg

Edited by therealjustin

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've been pondering recently what to do with all my parts that have similar problems. I have many bushes/half-bushes with cracks, and almost all of my axle pin connectors are cracked around the bottom bit (where you insert the axle). It seems such a waste to just throw them out, given that they are still useful for low-stress purposes.

What's the general consensus of using cracked parts?

Owen.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a few bushes/half bushes that are crack, the clutch is really weak on a few of them. If for display person it would be fine to use I think.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.