miguev Posted February 10, 2015 I was just thinking of building this jeep yesterday, but I'll buy your instructions instead :) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
miguev Posted February 28, 2015 Said and done. Thank you Master Sheepo for these instructions The build was very enjoyable and rich in learning experiencies for me, it showed me that I have a long way to go in terms of building with more axles and less pins, and that "solid enough" is better than "too solid". I had to adapt color scheme to the parts I have, which are basically lots of yellow, black and red, but nearly nothing in DBG. I had some trouble picking the car up from the bodywork, so I added a sturdy roll bar and now I can pick it up from it and even drop it on it You may notice I replaced the hard spring (yellow) shocks with custom shocks inspired in piterx's. This was an unnecessary complication, it was enough to just use the regular soft spring (LBG) shocks, without taking them apart. With these, the car can now stand with all 4 tires on the ground despite a gap of 2 wheels under one of them, or 1 in each of opposite wheels: Last photo shows a particularly bad camber angle because I made this mistake. I just realized now, fixed it while installing LBG shocks. Also replaced the AA battery box with a PP3 9V battery with MiniZip, which is 174 g. lighter. Even with the additional parts to keep the PP3 battery in place with the car inverted, it's so much lighter than LBG shocks have no problem holding it Now I can't wait for the SBrick app to work decently on Android, this car is too fast for the IR control, specially when trying to make it jump a ramp Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MajklSpajkl Posted February 28, 2015 Good job Miguev, I really like your color MOD. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nick Barrett Posted February 28, 2015 This is Technic at it's very best. Strong and versatile! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sheepo Posted March 1, 2015 It looks very well in yellow and black. It remember me a bee :wink: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kubavet Posted October 20, 2015 (edited) Hi, I've built chassis for my defender 110 (rc version) and i have to say that it's impressive. I found one thing that is worrying me- turning radius. When i turn left it's good, but when I turn right it barely turns. Have You Guys expirienced that problem? Kuba Edited October 20, 2015 by Kubavet Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
P3_Super_Bee Posted October 21, 2015 (edited) GREAT MOC!! Little history: Jeep didn't make a Willys, Willys was a vehicle manufacturer. Willys is also pronounced "willis" not willy's) Willys made a variety of vehicles called the MA, MB, CJ2, CJ2A etc, which were commonly referred to as a jeep (which most say is a phonetic pronunciation of GP (which is General Purpose), Ford and American Bantam also made a "jeep". They built the MB under licence during WWII for Willys to help with the war effort. Willys was sold to Kaiser Motors in the 50's This would have been the first time 'jeep" was used with a capitol "J" vehicles were known a Kaiser-Jeep's or simply Jeep. Kaiser-Jeep was bought in 1970 by American Motors Corporation (AMC) When AMC & Renault partnered in 1980, they could no longer make the "Jeep" for the US military (law forbids buying foreign products from military, there are ways around this) So the military side of the house was spun off into a separate, independant company called AM General which we know as the maker of the HMMWV (Humvee), not to be confused with the junk built under licence by General Motors called Hummer, which are nothing more than a badge engineered Chevy Tahoes(H2) and Chevy Colorado(H3) with a body package and an very high price increase... Edited October 21, 2015 by P3_Super_Bee Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
minewere Posted December 16, 2015 (edited) Hello guys, reading this forum already for a while, really enjoying it! Started with Lego just a few months ago. Finally all parts arrived and i built my 2nd lego modell ( first was regular 42009 ). Somehow it doesn't work really well. The car is kind of "bumping", the steering blocks the driving. Overall it's not a smooth drive.. The remote parts and servo motor were used in a few simple MOCs and worked well. Batteries are already changed..I made 2 videos, maybe you've got a few hints for me :) In the videos i'm pushing the throttle almost all the time, still the car stops.. Edited December 16, 2015 by minewere Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rm8 Posted December 16, 2015 (edited) Hello guys, reading this forum already for a while, really enjoying it! Started with Lego just a few months ago. Finally all parts arrived and i built my 2nd lego modell ( first was regular 42009 ). Somehow it doesn't work really well. The car is kind of "bumping", the steering blocks the driving. Overall it's not a smooth drive.. The remote parts and servo motor were used in a few simple MOCs and worked well. Batteries are already changed..I made 2 videos, maybe you've got a few hints for me :) In the videos i'm pushing the throttle almost all the time, still the car stops.. Are you sure you build it right? I have that chassis on my shelve. Never meet that problem. 1.Looks like your front wheels touch something on the frame... 2.May be steering overload IR receiver...Do you use V2 IR receiver? Try with 1 L motor connected to receiver (instead 2) Edited December 16, 2015 by rm8 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
minewere Posted December 16, 2015 (edited) Are you sure you build it right? Can't be 100% sure, going through instructions right now. Disconnected one L-Motor, still the same. The problem with stutter and steering already occurs with no gear activated ( red catch in 0-position ). How do i know, if it's a V1 or V2? While no throttle is active, the steering works fine. With active throttle the problems occure. Edited December 16, 2015 by minewere Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boulderer Posted December 16, 2015 Typically the V2 receivers have "V2" printed on the part, below the channel switch. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
minewere Posted December 16, 2015 (edited) No V2 printed, probably V1 then..but it should handle one L- and one Servo-Motor, right? Earlier it worked fine with 2 M- and 1 Servo-Motor Video with no gear: Ok now i'm really confused. I use 2 remotes ( as seen in the video, just for "comfort" ). Both on the same channel. By coincidence tried it with just one, worked perfectly What could be the reason? For clearance: Both perfectly work separate, together the problems occure. Edited December 16, 2015 by minewere Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
2LegoOrNot2Lego... Posted December 17, 2015 Two remotes with the same channel interfere, that makes sense to me... So this should be why it not works, I think... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Epic Technic Posted December 17, 2015 Two remotes with the same channel interfere, that makes sense to me... So this should be why it not works, I think... This is definitely it, it has happened to me too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sheepo Posted December 17, 2015 Here is a quick technical answer about how the PF remote controller works. When you push any lever, it sends a signal, obviously, but when you push both levers it doesn't send two signals, it send just one signal which includes both levers signal at the same time. Actually a controller can send 8 differents signals: * Levers (right.left) * + > front * - > back * 0 > stoped 1- (+.0) 2- (-.0) 3- (0.+) 4- (0.-) 5- (+.+) 6- (-.-) 7- (+.-) 8- (-.+) For this reason why a receiver receives for example (+.0) and (0.-) at the same time it can't undenstand the signal and do rare things like you show in all videos I hope this info can help you. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
2LegoOrNot2Lego... Posted December 18, 2015 Yeah, that makes sense indeed, good explanation! Thanks for helping us to get it sorted... :thumbup: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
minewere Posted December 18, 2015 Thanks for the explanation! :) MOC is ready and working really well! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
