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Here is my most recent project I'm building. I've built the chassis of this Buggy from instructions made by Madoca 1977. The difference here is that I built this to use the AA battery box instead of the Lipo battery. In the future I plan to add one or two of my upgraded XL motor in here but right now the L motors are looking and handling great. More is to come feel free to comment...

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Edited by Boxerlego

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Interesting... I am wondering how you will manage to fit 2 of your XL motors.

I wondering too but I will certainly give it a go.

This looks cool,is it fast ? This is my buggy http://www.eurobrick...89#entry2029375

Thanks! It has decent speed with the two L motors and heavy battery box. Nice buggy! The direct motor drive setup along with Lipo battery sure would be faster then this one here in its currents condition.

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I know lipos are costly so if you want you can get the battery box that looks similar but takes 6 battery's instead.

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I'm sticking with the AA batteries. Sure It can appear to be heavy option and eat in to the speed but the way I look at it, is that 1 battery can be as good as 6 it all depends how there connected together.

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Couple of days ago I connected the 8 cell AA 12v battery box which the voltage was actually at 10.4v. There was a without a doubt a noticeable speed difference with the 2 L motors. Sure it wasn't fast as if was the buggy motors powering it with the extra voltage but the L motors certainly was showing some speed that wasn't there with the Lego 9v AA battery box connected up.

001_12v_batterycase.jpg

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Well it looks like I cant put the two XL motors in this buggy like how the L motors are in it because the gear pairs for the 4x3 gear mesh is horrible. Here is some pictures of what I'm talking about.

gear_mesh_4x3.jpg

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gear_mesh_002.jpg

gear_mesh_003.jpg

gear_mesh_004.jpg

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I have a different solution, haven`t tested it with the torque of an XL motor though, off course it`ll require some extra reinforcement, this was just a quick mockup:

EsEMBPp.jpg

this is using two of the 40t gears and a pair of these stacked against each other. 2 20t gears might work too, havent tested that.

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I had a smillar problem in my 4x4 here, check how I fixed it:

http://www.eurobrick...25#entry1746110

Wow, that is a clever fix. It would be nice to use that 5x4 gear connection with the idler gear, Tho its one stud bigger and one stud wider then what I need to fit in proportions with the buggy.

I have a different solution, haven`t tested it with the torque of an XL motor though, off course it`ll require some extra reinforcement, this was just a quick mockup:

this is using two of the 40t gears and a pair of these stacked against each other. 2 20t gears might work too, havent tested that.

That is very Interesting, Tho I wouldn't recommend using that half bevel gear mesh in situations like that because the teeth pitch alignment is way off If you want to exert maximum torque on the gears and pull that car like ZBLJ did.

Edited by Boxerlego

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This post it to show some of the improvements I've made to the buggy. The picture below I put a liftarm in to connect the two hard shocks together to strengthen the axle setup.

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Here are a series of pictures that show the improvements I made to the steering rack and pinon gear. The pictures below show how I swap out the 3L thin liftarm with a 5L thin liftarm to help keep the gear rack straight when turning.

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Here I added a 3L thin lifarm in between the pinion gear and steering u joint. Doing this helps in removing any excess free play with in the gear and the u-joint. Providing more structural strength for the steering shaft.

wip_011.jpg

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Picture below show the suspension improvement to keep the shock from bottoming out and preventing the chassis bottom from scraping against the ground.

wip_006.jpg

wip_007.jpg

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Thanks VK, :classic: There're more improvements down the road not as small as the ones above are. I got a lot in store for this awesome buggy.

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