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Thanks @jovel, that definitively shows TLG considers this legal!

Still, I agree it seems a bad idea. Even in the official building instructions it looks like the teeth are intersecting with that black beam:

1280x978.jpg

24t_chiron_closeup.jpg

Edited by astyanax
added close-up

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So, now the reason is obvious. I'm not into these USC cars, so missed this moment but it looks really weird to see this "barely-legal" connection in such expensive sets. Now I see that it was just screaming for these improved gears.

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6 minutes ago, Void_S said:

so missed this moment but it looks really weird to see this "barely-legal" connection in such expensive sets.

OTOH even old (and very old) 24t gears don't rub against beam in this situation (even with some torque)...

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59 minutes ago, Void_S said:

So, now the reason is obvious. I'm not into these USC cars, so missed this moment but it looks really weird to see this "barely-legal" connection in such expensive sets. Now I see that it was just screaming for these improved gears.

To be fair, even in the "Pimp up my Bugatti" this construction remains (I just checked), so apparently even builders as eminent as @jb70 and @Didumos69 saw no issue here. :sweet:

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1 hour ago, astyanax said:

To be fair, even in the "Pimp up my Bugatti" this construction remains (I just checked), so apparently even builders as eminent as @jb70 and @Didumos69 saw no issue here. :sweet:

I never knew about this. Actually, I have never built the Bugatti :grin:. However, I do know that even though this construction is a theoretical fit, there is enough play to allow for the gear (old and new) rubbing the beam.

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Hah, interesting to learn so much about 24t gears.. I had no idea what I was getting myself into. 

Semi related - how much do you all care about "illegal" connections? When I built 42082 I was quite taken aback by the cab assembly which included quite a few pins that were only pushed through a single half width beam. 

If TLG doesn't care to change this in their official models, does that mean it's not such a big deal? I was always under the impression it damaged pieces (particularly pins) when a model is displayed for long periods of time. Again, I'm surprised to see it in an official set.

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1 hour ago, arieben said:

Semi related - how much do you all care about "illegal" connections? When I built 42082 I was quite taken aback by the cab assembly which included quite a few pins that were only pushed through a single half width beam. 

If TLG doesn't care to change this in their official models, does that mean it's not such a big deal? I was always under the impression it damaged pieces (particularly pins) when a model is displayed for long periods of time. Again, I'm surprised to see it in an official set.

Do you mean this connection?

Unbenannt.png

Why should it be illegal? It's just not to pleasent to look at but don't put any more stress on the pin or the part...

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10 hours ago, Jundis said:

Do you mean this connection?

<snip>

Yes, that one precisely. I was under the impression that since the pins are not in "snap", they don't have room for the ends to expand back and therefore will lose their tensile strength from being compressed if it's left for a long period of time. 

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the picture shows a configuration that does allow the ends of thepin to "expand back", meaning the build is "in system" and will have no longer term issues

if the picture doesn't make sense in your head, try building it.

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7 hours ago, bonox said:

the picture shows a configuration that does allow the ends of thepin to "expand back", meaning the build is "in system" and will have no longer term issues

if the picture doesn't make sense in your head, try building it.

Seems so obvious now, thank you. I was misremembering previous "illegal connections" I had seen before.

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12 hours ago, SNIPE said:

Here's some tricks you can do with part 32249 to get advanced connections or for other things:

I have been wonder what your icon is for a while. Now I finally understand. lol

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I have a completely baseless prediction: 

Lego is going to produce a dedicated part to make 1x1 stud piston engines. Both the cement truck and the volvo hauler have had problems getting their engines to run smoothly, and I think a dedicated part may help a lot. 

I think they're going to start with an axle part, with maybe a possibility of attaching 1x1 round tiles to get different piston colours. But they also may decide a shorter cam part would be an improvement.

Like I said, this isn't based on anything. But their continued use of 1x1 cylinder engines instead of the regular piston engines might merit an investment down the line. 

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8 hours ago, mahjqa said:

I have a completely baseless prediction: 

Lego is going to produce a dedicated part to make 1x1 stud piston engines. Both the cement truck and the volvo hauler have had problems getting their engines to run smoothly, and I think a dedicated part may help a lot. 

I think they're going to start with an axle part, with maybe a possibility of attaching 1x1 round tiles to get different piston colours. But they also may decide a shorter cam part would be an improvement.

Like I said, this isn't based on anything. But their continued use of 1x1 cylinder engines instead of the regular piston engines might merit an investment down the line. 

Good observation.. Not baseless. I believe the engines could be fixed easily with a 2L cam piece. It would be nice for 1/2 stud offsets and it would certainly make the engines run well.

If you think about it.. Piston heads used to be those 2x2 blocks. Now they're about 1.25 studs wide.. 1 stud is only the next logical step! :tongue:

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17 minutes ago, arieben said:

Good observation.. Not baseless. I believe the engines could be fixed easily with a 2L cam piece. It would be nice for 1/2 stud offsets and it would certainly make the engines run well.

Yes that would be closer to proper bore and stroke representation; example trucks with 19 studs wide chassis are 1:16.5 scale, so bore 1 stud (8mm) could represent 132mm cylinder bore which is more truck like in terms of size than current (1.25 studs 10mm that represent 165mm bore)...but it is just a calculation; the same way gears and suspension parts if calculated would lead to even more disproportions...

Edited by I_Igor

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New Parts in 42113:

- Power Up Battery Box, part number 6214082

 

Parts in New Color in 42113

- Technic Liftarm 3x3 T-shaped in Orange, part number 60484 / 6305545
- Rotor Blade/Sian Side Skirt in Black, part number 6305550
- Wheel 31mm D. x 15mm in Orange, part number 60208 / 6303441
- Technic Panel 5x11 Tapered in Orange, part number 18945 / 6303439
- Technic Panel 5x11 Tapered in DBG, part number 18945 / 6112843
- Technic Panel 3x5 #1 in DBG, part number 87080 / 6013548
- Technic Panel 3x5 #2 in DBG, part number 87086 / 6303445
- Technic Curved Triangular Panel 3x13 #50 (Sian's hood) in DBG, part 6310171
- Technic Curved Triangular Panel 3x13 #51 (Sian's hood) in DBG, part 6310172
- Technic Curved Panel 3x13 in DBG, part number 18944 / 6303446
 

 

Rare Parts in 42113:

- Linear Clutch White Half, part number 46834 / 6257336
- Linear Clutch Grey Half, part number 46835 / 6257337
- Frame 7x11 in White, part number 39794 / 6247435
- Biscuit Connector in Yellow, part number 39793 / 6252654
- Technic Connector #4 135 degrees in Orange, part number 32192 / 6262900
- Technic Shell Panel 3x7 in Orange, part number 24119 / 6149936, 6303440
- Technic Liftarm 9L in Orange, part number 40490 / 6135086
- Technic Panel 2x5 #21 in LBG, part number 11946 / 6236922
- Technic Panel 2x5 #22 in LBG, part number 11947 / 6236920
- Technic Panel 2x5 #21 in DBG, part number 11946 / 6330085
- Technic Panel 2x5 #22 in DBG, part number 11947 / 6197945
- Technic Panel 3x7 #3 in DBG, part number 64683 / 6248902
- Technic Panel 3x7 #4 in DBG, part number 64391 / 6248903
- Technic Shell Panel 3x11 2 holes in DBG, part number 62531 / 6211633
- Technic Panel 5x11 in DBG, part number 64782 / 6207990
- Cylinder Hemisphere in Black, part number 86500 / 6252319

Edited by Ngoc Nguyen

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1 hour ago, Ngoc Nguyen said:

New Parts in 42113:

- Power Up Battery Box, part number 6214082

 

Parts in New Color in 42113

- Technic Liftarm 3x3 T-shaped in Orange, part number 60484 / 6305545
- Cylinder Hemisphere in Black, part number 86500 / 6252319
- Rotor Blade/Sian Side Skirt in Black, part number 6305550
- Wheel 31mm D. x 15mm in Orange, part number 60208 / 6303441
- Technic Panel 5x11 Tapered in Orange, part number 18945 / 6303439
- Technic Panel 5x11 Tapered in DBG, part number 18945 / 6112843
- Technic Panel 3x5 #1 in DBG, part number 87080 / 6013548
- Technic Panel 3x5 #2 in DBG, part number 87086 / 6303445
- Technic Curved Triangular Panel 3x13 #50 (Sian's hood) in DBG, part 6310171
- Technic Curved Triangular Panel 3x13 #51 (Sian's hood) in DBG, part 6310172
- Technic Curved Panel 3x13 in DBG, part number 18944 / 6303446
 

 

Rare Parts in 42113:

- Linear Clutch White Half, part number 46834 / 6257336
- Linear Clutch Grey Half, part number 46835 / 6257337
- Frame 7x11 in White, part number 39794 / 6247435
- Biscuit Connector in Yellow, part number 39793 / 6252654
- Technic Connector #4 135 degrees in Orange, part number 32192 / 6262900
- Technic Shell Panel 3x7 in Orange, part number 24119 / 6149936, 6303440
- Technic Liftarm 9L in Orange, part number 40490 / 6135086
- Technic Panel 2x5 #21 in LBG, part number 11946 / 6236922
- Technic Panel 2x5 #22 in LBG, part number 11947 / 6236920
- Technic Panel 2x5 #21 in DBG, part number 11946 / 6330085
- Technic Panel 2x5 #22 in DBG, part number 11947 / 6197945
- Technic Panel 3x7 #3 in DBG, part number 64683 / 6248902
- Technic Panel 3x7 #4 in DBG, part number 64391 / 6248903
- Technic Shell Panel 3x11 2 holes in DBG, part number 62531 / 6211633
- Technic Panel 5x11 in DBG, part number 64782 / 6207990

Hi , Ngoc Nguyen . Can you share instruction , please ?

 

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In my opinion, the most exciting part released since I got into Technic in 2016 has been the 35188 rotary shifter, because it allows for far simpler sequential gearboxes, without making the build process unduly simpler. However, it has the downside of having fixed geometry, meaning that we cannot build certain gearbox designs. In some scenarios, I find myself wanting different geometries, but Lego will almost certainly never make a slightly different version of the same part! Have any of you ever had problems with this limitation?

 

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I'm not 100% sure if this is the right place, but I was wondering if two knob wheels have less slack than ordinary gears; e.g. 12 to 20 tooth double bevel?

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I'd say it's more likely to be more than less, @I_Igor. The relative speeds of the two axles when they rotate is not constant. If axle A is perpendicular and axle B is diagonal, axle B turns faster, but after 45 degrees, axle A turns faster (in my experience this effect is most noticeable when the 2 knobwheels are in-the same plane). So this means that if the driver axle turns at a constant speed, the "follower" axle turns at a wildly varying speed. If this is part of a longer geartrain, then this can introduce a lot of friction.

I would really only use knob wheels if there is any perticular reason for it, for example:

  • the orientation of the axles matters
  • for axles that only need to rotate very slowly or only a little (like steering)
  • if the variable speed of the follower axle is something you actually want

If there is no particular reason to use knobwheels, I'd always prefer normal gears.

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49 minutes ago, Erik Leppen said:

I'd say it's more likely to be more than less, @I_Igor. The relative speeds of the two axles when they rotate is not constant. If axle A is perpendicular and axle B is diagonal, axle B turns faster, but after 45 degrees, axle A turns faster (in my experience this effect is most noticeable when the 2 knobwheels are in-the same plane). So this means that if the driver axle turns at a constant speed, the "follower" axle turns at a wildly varying speed. If this is part of a longer geartrain, then this can introduce a lot of friction.

I would really only use knob wheels if there is any perticular reason for it, for example:

  • the orientation of the axles matters
  • for axles that only need to rotate very slowly or only a little (like steering)
  • if the variable speed of the follower axle is something you actually want

If there is no particular reason to use knobwheels, I'd always prefer normal gears.

Thank you for fast response; the truth us that I look for solution how to transfer power from PF servo but steering shaft can only be placed 5 holes below servo...and servo is to big to be placed on axle (axle something like on 9398 set without portal hubs)...

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Just now, I_Igor said:

Thank you for fast response; the truth us that I look for solution how to transfer power from PF servo but steering shaft can only be placed 5 holes below servo...and servo is to big to be placed on axle (axle something like on 9398 set without portal hubs)...

For 5 holes you'd need more than 2 knobwheels in the same plane. In my experience that doesn't work. The friction @Erik Leppen mentions completely blocks the drivetrain from time to time.
I never properly tested the slack, but I always had the feeling that knobgears have less slack than normal gears (that's maybe also why they have more friction :laugh:)

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